gas tank fix.

[david zawadzki]

What are the best/most visibility mirrors for a klr? -David Z mobile: 646.267.1109 -please download our free single www.thevanguardband.com

[Jud]

I always thought the stock ones were pretty decent, and saw no reason to change. They have survived a lot of biffs over the years. If I had to replace them, I would probably go with the Ken Sean folding mirrors, usually under $20. A lot of guys are now swearing by the ones that mount on a RAM ball mount. I guess that would give the most adjustabilty/easy folding in a crash. I forget what they are caled. They are pretty cool, if a bit spendy by the time you have paid not just for the mirrors but also all the RAM bits. I know that does not really answer your question, but I have never had a problem seeing stuff in the stock mirrors. If the image ever blurs, and I really need to be able to see detail, I just grab the mirror or stem to calm the picture down. In any event, if you are riding correctly, the only guy overtaking you should be the trooper, and you won't have a problem seeing the blue lights with any mirror. ;-{>

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Zawadzki wrote: > > What are the best/most visibility mirrors for a klr? > > -David Z > mobile: 646.267.1109 > > -please download our free single > www.thevanguardband.com >

[James W. Flower]

I have generic square mirrors on my A13, they're all over eBay or Napoleon brand are fine. They have larger mirror surfaces (maybe 4.5" x 4.5"), the stalks are thicker and don't vibrate so much. I have rectangular convex ones (O'Reilly's in far northern California) stuck on to the lower outside corners so that they project outward another inch or so. In traffic I can read them really fast. They won't survive a dump but then they cost $3 each, and the mirrors not too much more (and I have been down with just the mirrors with no damage). I still see my own shoulders on the inside lower corners of the main mirrors, but it doesn't matter so much with the extra mirrors sticking out on the sides. I'd like the whole arrangement to stick up another inch. A 5/8" rod of aluminum, drilled at the top for a mirror's threaded stud, and threaded at the bottom to screw into the perch on the bar, could be made any height I wanted. Would still want the convex stickons, but could make fully use of the main mirror. The isolators with the rubber liners did not work for me, just made the mirrors wobble. A Bar Snake (I have the stock bars) helped with mirror vibration and hand vibration. -JWF

[achesley43@ymail.com]

I have DR 650 mirrows on mine. Same ones as DRZ400 and DR350. Like them okay. Andy in Jennings

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Zawadzki wrote: > > What are the best/most visibility mirrors for a klr? > > -David Z > mobile: 646.267.1109 > > -please download our free single > www.thevanguardband.com >

[Fred Hink]

The Honda XRL mirrors used to be the best for vibration damping but Honda has priced themselves out of the competition. The ones I sell now are the late model KLR mirrors that have the damper built in like the Honda mirrors and are cheaper. http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/images/klr_mirror.jpg Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: achesley43@... Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 8:21 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Mirrors I have DR 650 mirrows on mine. Same ones as DRZ400 and DR350. Like them okay. Andy in Jennings

--- In mailto:DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, David Zawadzki wrote: > > What are the best/most visibility mirrors for a klr? > > -David Z > mobile: 646.267.1109 > > -please download our free single > www.thevanguardband.com > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

On the Winfield Hell yes.. A KLR ? Get a plastic tank ordered, install and keep riding it. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "mcapocci" wrote: > > Job weld is a good fix for a temporary job. The issues are...in the described failure at the spot weld you have rusting on the inside also. > That needs to be adressed. > > How to.... > At home after the trip. After all 17 k miles is not a lot. > > Remove tank remove fuel. Remove petcock and balance tube, remove rust...... > By.. First knocking out the loose crud....first use a hose and wash the tank out. > > Plug the balance tube and peacock hole. > > Go to a gun shop and buy 2 lbs of double 0 buck shot.. Count how many you have. Dump it on the tank. Shake it until you hate It. > > Use a shop vac to suck out the dust. Do it again. Vacuum again. Do this until you get no red rust. Remove the buck shot. Counting how many you remove. That foam adhesive in rolls is good on the end of a stick for that last one you cannot get. > > Blow out with shop air. Use denatured alcohol to wash the inside of the tank and check for leaks. Oh yes remove the job weld first. > > Prep the Leakey area. With sand paper. Run compressed air through the tank for ten min to ensure not fire hazard exists. Silver solder the leak closed or weld close. I like silver solde. Or use a good two part epoxy fed in from the innside of the tank. Get the long setting stuff with the long tip at home depot. Back fill the leak. Let it leak through the bad sectio and use tape to make a dam so you hold the rst in. You do not need a lot.. > > On a separate bit of wood make a button of the same goo that way you know when it is hard. Let it cure. Use a hair dryer to warm not cook the stuff after it os hard. Leave over night. > > When fully cure...hard as a rock. Check for leaks. If none. Dump naval jelly int tank. I assume your klr is like the rest and is a steel tank. Swish around all over the inside.with the holes caped and the gas cap on. Do not. Get the crap on your self .follow all safety precautions this crap is dangerous. When you have the inside on the tank. Coated. Welll ..it down not take a lot..a half pint at the most.. Dump it out into a big plastic bucket. Wait thirty min. Fill the tank 1 / e rd full with water with a few drops of dish soap Cap it shake One min. Dump out in the bucket. Do it one more time . You have paso acted the tank surface and reverted any rust to a stable oxide. Add one quart of ISP propyl alcohol to the tank in four additions swishing and dumping out each time. After the last time let it air out ten min and seal the tank . Reinstall on the bike. Touch up the paint go ride. This is a good procedure. Since your tank is fifteen years old with only 17 k mile so it is rusty. Five year old tanks may not need this. > > This worked on a fourth year old royal Winfield tank that was irreplaceable. This costs about twenty buck. >