de tour 2006 ** day six**

[gmay131313]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "takes2serious" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Nolo Incognere > wrote: > > > I have looked around for a 1/4" torque wrench, but have come up empty > handed so far. Does anybody have a good source, or any ideas on where

I

> might look? > > > --- > > Mine is a Proto and I really like it. Picked it up at my local > Grainger, but they also sell online. Gotta have an account though, I > believe. >

In Canada, Princess Auto. $34.95 catalog page 270.....Greg

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Blake Sobiloff wrote:

> > On May 7, 2007, at 7:41 AM, grufrude wrote: > > Not sure why you want/need a 1/4" drive torque wrench (the ones I've > > seen only go up to 60 in/lbs and the cam caps are torqued to 104 > > in/lbs.) > > Hi Hugh! There are 1/4" drive torque wrenches that go up to 200 in- > lbs. Mine's an SK brand, but I'm sure there are others. One of > those, combined with some 1/4" extension bars, lets you get directly > on all the cam caps and valve cover bolts. FWIW... > -- > Blake Sobiloff

and, I thought my Snap-On was 250 in-lbs, but the link below shows it as 1/4"drive, 200 in-lbs. (It is 125 miles away.) revmaaatin. married to his torque wrench, but presently 'seperated' http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp? P65=&tool=all&item_ID=55256&group_ID=953&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "gmay131313" wrote:

> Hi all, I just finished a valve adjustment yesterday among other > things on my 04 KLR and also used my 3/8 torque wrench without > needing any adapters..perhaps on of the real mechanics out there > could confirm or correct something I thought I remember being told > years ago, that being if you use any type of adapter on a torque > wrench other then a straight extension it could give you a false > torque reading because of the joint binding....Now I'll have to break > down and humble myself and ask one of the resident engineers here a > question confirming what they have suspected all along that us elect.

Well, the joint binding certainly doesn't help, but the main issue is the moment arm. Consider the word "foot/pound". 1 foot/pound of torque is what you put onto a bolt if you have a one foot wrench positioned horizontally and hang one pound of weight off its very tip. Now, make that moment arm longer, say, 1 foot 1" long via a U-joint extension, and how much torque are you applying? Well, you're applying slightly under 1.1 foot/pounds of torque -- i.e., more torque than you thought. Make that moment arm shorter, by having the U-joint the other way, so that the moment arm is only 11 inches long, and how much torque are you applying? Well, you're applying slightly over .9 foot/pounds of torque, or not as much torque as you thought you were applying. A torque wrench basically measures the amount of force you're applying to the end of the handle of the wrench and multiplies it by the known distance between the head of the wrench and its handle in order to present the final torque value to you, but it has no way of knowing you changed that distance if you add a u-joint into the equation. So you end up with the wrong distance in that case.

[Jeff Saline]

On Mon, 7 May 2007 13:43:48 -0700 (PDT) Nolo Incognere writes:

> Thank you all for your responses. I now have some good ideas where to > find a 1/4" torque wrench. However I must admit I'm now even more > confused. If I had to choose between a 1/4" or a 3/8", which would > be best? Again, I'm going to do the Doo and a valve adjustment and > would like to buy one or the other. Most of my metric sockets above > 8mm are 3/8", so I would just as soon get the 3/8" if it will do the > job. >

SNIP

> > John O.

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> John, My suggestion is to get an inch pound torque wrench and a foot pound torque wrench and have the values overlap. To convert inch pounds to foot pounds divide by 12. Example: 180 inch pounds divided by 12 equals 15 foot pounds. To convert foot pounds to inch pounds multiply by 12. Example: 8 foot pounds times 12 equals 96 inch pounds. So if you get an inch pounds torque wrench good for 250 inch pounds (same as 20.8 foot pounds) and a foot pound torque wrench starting at say 10 foot pounds (same as 120 inch pounds) you should be covered. Try not to use the bottom 20% range of a torque wrench for best accuracy. You can use an adapter to change drive sizes without any issues. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "gmay131313" wrote: > > Hi all, I just finished a valve adjustment yesterday among other > > things on my 04 KLR and also used my 3/8 torque wrench without > > needing any adapters..perhaps on of the real mechanics out there > > could confirm or correct something I thought I remember being

told

> > years ago, that being if you use any type of adapter on a torque > > wrench other then a straight extension it could give you a false > > torque reading because of the joint binding....Now I'll have to

break

> > down and humble myself and ask one of the resident engineers here

a

> > question confirming what they have suspected all along that us

elect.

> > Well, the joint binding certainly doesn't help, but the main issue

is

> the moment arm. Consider the word "foot/pound". 1 foot/pound of

torque

> is what you put onto a bolt if you have a one foot wrench positioned > horizontally and hang one pound of weight off its very tip. Now,

make

> that moment arm longer, say, 1 foot 1" long via a U-joint extension, > and how much torque are you applying? Well, you're applying slightly > under 1.1 foot/pounds of torque -- i.e., more torque than you

thought.

> Make that moment arm shorter, by having the U-joint the other way,

so

> that the moment arm is only 11 inches long, and how much torque are > you applying? Well, you're applying slightly over .9 foot/pounds of > torque, or not as much torque as you thought you were applying. > > A torque wrench basically measures the amount of force you're

applying

> to the end of the handle of the wrench and multiplies it by the

known

> distance between the head of the wrench and its handle in order to > present the final torque value to you, but it has no way of knowing > you changed that distance if you add a u-joint into the equation. So > you end up with the wrong distance in that case. >

In one aviation application of torqueing the propeller nut on a Stearman biplane: (paraphrased-from old brain cells) "Propeller nut torque: 1200ft#. Place (suspend) a 200# man on a 6ft breaker bar until the nut does not move anymore."

[kestrelfal]

http://www.cditorque.com/main.html Fred --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote:

> > > Unless there's been a change, Snap-On is the ONLY company that

warrants

> torque wrenches longer than one year, and will re-calibrate them for

you.

> > > > I couldn't justify laying out big bucks for something like a Snap- > > On since I only would use the tool once in a while. > > I have two Snap-On torque wrenches, both bought used, one a 1/2"

clicker

> good from 40 to 200 foot pounds ($75 Cdn around 13 years ago) that's

been

> calibrated twice and the ratchet rebuilt once, all UNDER WARRANTY,

and a

> 3/8" tachometer style 0 to 150 inch pounds ($25 Cdn) that I use with

a 3/8-1/4

> adapter for all the 'little jobs'. > > > Good used snap-on 1/4 inch drive torque wrenches can be found on ebay > > for less than $50, in my experience. I'd much rather own a quality > > used torque wrench, as long as it is calibrated, than a new one of > > low quality. The $20 difference is well worth the money in my > > opinion. > > Just remember - a torque wrench that's NOT accurate is as useful as

a leaky

> condum. > Ed >

[Mike Peplinski]

I found mine on ebay.

>From: "takes2serious" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Torque wrenches >Date: Mon, 07 May 2007 17:41:03 -0000 > >--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Nolo Incognere >wrote: > > >I have looked around for a 1/4" torque wrench, but have come up empty >handed so far. Does anybody have a good source, or any ideas on where I >might look? > > >--- > >Mine is a Proto and I really like it. Picked it up at my local >Grainger, but they also sell online. Gotta have an account though, I >believe. > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > >

_________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE Web site, company branded e-mail and more from Microsoft Office Live! http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/mcrssaub0050001411mrt/direct/01/

[monte quint]

Do I need two torque wrenches?? I see torque measurement given in in/lbs and ft/lbs ranging from 52 in/lbs to 72 ft/lbs on the klr torque values charts. Then I see 1/4" torque wrenches, good quality ones, that measure up to 200 in/lbs. Nowhere near the needed range for achieving 72 ft/lbs of torque. Am I thinking wrong here?? Did have to chuckle about "Jake" getting touchy about refering to his wife after the way he worded his post. After his response I realized what he had tried to say the initially, just didn't register that way on the first read. Monte in presently very soggy Ketchikan, AK

[clutz003]

In my view you need at least two, as you have figured out, one for inch pounds and one for foot pounds. (I have the click type). These work best in the middle ranges of their ratings, and are less accurate if you are using them at the top or bottom of the scale. I started out with an inch and a foot pound 1/2 inch drive. This was all I ever needed until I adjusted the valves and couldn't get the 1/2 inch wrence into the small space. I then got a 1/4 inch drive inch pound wrench and I have all I seem to need (these seem to be harder to find but I found a good used Snap On one on Ebay). Craig A18 San Jose CA --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "monte quint" wrote:

> > Do I need two torque wrenches?? > > I see torque measurement given in in/lbs and ft/lbs ranging from 52 > in/lbs to 72 ft/lbs on the klr torque values charts. > > Then I see 1/4" torque wrenches, good quality ones, that measure up

to

> 200 in/lbs. Nowhere near the needed range for achieving 72 ft/lbs of > torque. Am I thinking wrong here?? > >

[Blake Sobiloff]

On May 25, 2007, at 8:13 PM, monte quint wrote:

> Then I see 1/4" torque wrenches, good quality ones, that measure up to > 200 in/lbs. Nowhere near the needed range for achieving 72 ft/lbs of > torque. Am I thinking wrong here??

Hi Monte! I think you're on the right track--a 1/4" drive wrench that'll go up to 200 in-lbs, and a 3/8" or 1/2" drive for the larger stuff. Suspension stuff tends to require a 1/2" drive wrench, whereas engine internals tend to require 1/4". Me? I have all three. -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]