klr650 with zx10 motor

[Jeff Khoury]

If you put that in there, the upside is that it will always smell like you have a Hawaiian Tropic girl on the back.

----- Original Message ----- From: "James W. Flower" To: "Jeff Khoury" Cc: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 1:41:24 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil More wise words from Mr. K. I just got a deal on a truckload of outdated suntan lotion on eBay.... On Oct 10, 2011, at 1:12 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote: > I don't see how it could affect the neutral light, but as I said in an earlier post I had the same observation about finding neutral. Mobil 1 "Turbodiesel Truck" 5w-40 does not exhibit this behaviour. > > I wouldn't worry too much about "recommendations". I know we all get passionate about our choices but seriously... if you change your oil regularly almost any oil will do, just stay away from the 20w-50s, they're too thick especially when it's cold. > > You can safely use 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-40 oil of any type as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the API seal. This includes most "car oils" and "diesel truck/semi oils". I'm currently trying out Mobil Delvac and I like the transmission feel. Since I change every 3,000 miles the consensus (among bikers and the oil experts that I know) is that synthetic is optional at those change intervals. If you choose to go extended drain, then synth would be worth looking at. I've always used full synth in my bikes since its introduction and before that I always used diesel truck oil, for a variety of esoteric technical reasons. But, as most people say as long as you change it on schedule and keep it topped off it really doesn't matter much what you put in there. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James W. Flower" > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 12:30:04 PM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil > > > > > > > I started Rotella T6 a couple of months ago. After a couple hundred miles, finding neutral got harder sometimes. Also, when I leave the bike parked in first, then put it in neutral before starting it, it eventually goes into neutral but the neutral light doesn't come on. It comes on after I start up. I don't see how the oil can cause this, but then oil is a Great and Abiding Mystery to me. Rotella 6 is one of the few recommended oils I can get easily here on the True Northern California Coast. -JWF > > >

[David Nichols]

Are you sure it was suntan lotion and not HID lights on Ebay? LOL ________________________________ From: Jeff Khoury To: James W. Flower Cc: DSN KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 3:46 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil If you put that in there, the upside is that it will always smell like you have a Hawaiian Tropic girl on the back.

----- Original Message ----- From: "James W. Flower" To: "Jeff Khoury" Cc: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 1:41:24 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil More wise words from Mr. K. I just got a deal on a truckload of outdated suntan lotion on eBay.... On Oct 10, 2011, at 1:12 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote: > I don't see how it could affect the neutral light, but as I said in an earlier post I had the same observation about finding neutral. Mobil 1 "Turbodiesel Truck" 5w-40 does not exhibit this behaviour. > > I wouldn't worry too much about "recommendations". I know we all get passionate about our choices but seriously... if you change your oil regularly almost any oil will do, just stay away from the 20w-50s, they're too thick especially when it's cold. > > You can safely use 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-40 oil of any type as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the API seal. This includes most "car oils" and "diesel truck/semi oils". I'm currently trying out Mobil Delvac and I like the transmission feel. Since I change every 3,000 miles the consensus (among bikers and the oil experts that I know) is that synthetic is optional at those change intervals. If you choose to go extended drain, then synth would be worth looking at. I've always used full synth in my bikes since its introduction and before that I always used diesel truck oil, for a variety of esoteric technical reasons. But, as most people say as long as you change it on schedule and keep it topped off it really doesn't matter much what you put in there. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James W. Flower" > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 12:30:04 PM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil > > > > > > > I started Rotella T6 a couple of months ago. After a couple hundred miles, finding neutral got harder sometimes. Also, when I leave the bike parked in first, then put it in neutral before starting it, it eventually goes into neutral but the neutral light doesn't come on. It comes on after I start up. I don't see how the oil can cause this, but then oil is a Great and Abiding Mystery to me. Rotella 6 is one of the few recommended oils I can get easily here on the True Northern California Coast. -JWF > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[James W. Flower]

What makes you think I don't?

On Oct 10, 2011, at 1:46 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote: > If you put that in there, the upside is that it will always smell like you have a Hawaiian Tropic girl on the back. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James W. Flower" > To: "Jeff Khoury" > Cc: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 1:41:24 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil > > More wise words from Mr. K. I just got a deal on a truckload of outdated suntan lotion on eBay.... > > On Oct 10, 2011, at 1:12 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote: > >> I don't see how it could affect the neutral light, but as I said in an earlier post I had the same observation about finding neutral. Mobil 1 "Turbodiesel Truck" 5w-40 does not exhibit this behaviour. >> >> I wouldn't worry too much about "recommendations". I know we all get passionate about our choices but seriously... if you change your oil regularly almost any oil will do, just stay away from the 20w-50s, they're too thick especially when it's cold. >> >> You can safely use 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-40 oil of any type as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the API seal. This includes most "car oils" and "diesel truck/semi oils". I'm currently trying out Mobil Delvac and I like the transmission feel. Since I change every 3,000 miles the consensus (among bikers and the oil experts that I know) is that synthetic is optional at those change intervals. If you choose to go extended drain, then synth would be worth looking at. I've always used full synth in my bikes since its introduction and before that I always used diesel truck oil, for a variety of esoteric technical reasons. But, as most people say as long as you change it on schedule and keep it topped off it really doesn't matter much what you put in there. >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "James W. Flower" >> To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> >> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 12:30:04 PM >> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil >> >> >> >> >> >> >> I started Rotella T6 a couple of months ago. After a couple hundred miles, finding neutral got harder sometimes. Also, when I leave the bike parked in first, then put it in neutral before starting it, it eventually goes into neutral but the neutral light doesn't come on. It comes on after I start up. I don't see how the oil can cause this, but then oil is a Great and Abiding Mystery to me. Rotella 6 is one of the few recommended oils I can get easily here on the True Northern California Coast. -JWF >> >> >> >

[Jeff Khoury]

Touche'.

----- Original Message ----- From: "James W. Flower" To: "KLR650 DSN" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Cc: "Jeff Khoury" Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 1:54:15 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil What makes you think I don't? On Oct 10, 2011, at 1:46 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote: > If you put that in there, the upside is that it will always smell like you have a Hawaiian Tropic girl on the back. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James W. Flower" > To: "Jeff Khoury" > Cc: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 1:41:24 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil > > More wise words from Mr. K. I just got a deal on a truckload of outdated suntan lotion on eBay.... > > On Oct 10, 2011, at 1:12 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote: > >> I don't see how it could affect the neutral light, but as I said in an earlier post I had the same observation about finding neutral. Mobil 1 "Turbodiesel Truck" 5w-40 does not exhibit this behaviour. >> >> I wouldn't worry too much about "recommendations". I know we all get passionate about our choices but seriously... if you change your oil regularly almost any oil will do, just stay away from the 20w-50s, they're too thick especially when it's cold. >> >> You can safely use 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-40 oil of any type as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the API seal. This includes most "car oils" and "diesel truck/semi oils". I'm currently trying out Mobil Delvac and I like the transmission feel. Since I change every 3,000 miles the consensus (among bikers and the oil experts that I know) is that synthetic is optional at those change intervals. If you choose to go extended drain, then synth would be worth looking at. I've always used full synth in my bikes since its introduction and before that I always used diesel truck oil, for a variety of esoteric technical reasons. But, as most people say as long as you change it on schedule and keep it topped off it really doesn't matter much what you put in there. >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "James W. Flower" >> To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> >> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 12:30:04 PM >> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil >> >> >> >> >> >> >> I started Rotella T6 a couple of months ago. After a couple hundred miles, finding neutral got harder sometimes. Also, when I leave the bike parked in first, then put it in neutral before starting it, it eventually goes into neutral but the neutral light doesn't come on. It comes on after I start up. I don't see how the oil can cause this, but then oil is a Great and Abiding Mystery to me. Rotella 6 is one of the few recommended oils I can get easily here on the True Northern California Coast. -JWF >> >> >> >

[James W. Flower]

I'm positive, because it was on Pinwall and they told me it was motor oil!

On Oct 10, 2011, at 1:51 PM, David Nichols wrote: > Are you sure it was suntan lotion and not HID lights on Ebay? > LOL > > From: Jeff Khoury > To: James W. Flower > Cc: DSN KLR650 DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 3:46 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil > > If you put that in there, the upside is that it will always smell like you have a Hawaiian Tropic girl on the back. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James W. Flower" > To: "Jeff Khoury" > Cc: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 1:41:24 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil > > More wise words from Mr. K. I just got a deal on a truckload of outdated suntan lotion on eBay.... > > On Oct 10, 2011, at 1:12 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > > I don't see how it could affect the neutral light, but as I said in an earlier post I had the same observation about finding neutral. Mobil 1 "Turbodiesel Truck" 5w-40 does not exhibit this behaviour. > > > > I wouldn't worry too much about "recommendations". I know we all get passionate about our choices but seriously... if you change your oil regularly almost any oil will do, just stay away from the 20w-50s, they're too thick especially when it's cold. > > > > You can safely use 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40 or 15w-40 oil of any type as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the API seal. This includes most "car oils" and "diesel truck/semi oils". I'm currently trying out Mobil Delvac and I like the transmission feel. Since I change every 3,000 miles the consensus (among bikers and the oil experts that I know) is that synthetic is optional at those change intervals. If you choose to go extended drain, then synth would be worth looking at. I've always used full synth in my bikes since its introduction and before that I always used diesel truck oil, for a variety of esoteric technical reasons. But, as most people say as long as you change it on schedule and keep it topped off it really doesn't matter much what you put in there. > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "James W. Flower" > > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 12:30:04 PM > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: oil > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I started Rotella T6 a couple of months ago. After a couple hundred miles, finding neutral got harder sometimes. Also, when I leave the bike parked in first, then put it in neutral before starting it, it eventually goes into neutral but the neutral light doesn't come on. It comes on after I start up. I don't see how the oil can cause this, but then oil is a Great and Abiding Mystery to me. Rotella 6 is one of the few recommended oils I can get easily here on the True Northern California Coast. -JWF > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[T2M]

To difficult to even find 20w-50 anymore. But I would buy it if I could find it. Way too many good experiences in too many different bikes to take that suggestion seriously. That said I am sold on NAPA 15w-50 Synthetic. Relatively cheap between $3-4 a quart. Transmission always tells you when to change or 6,000 miles. Longest mileage between changes ~9,000 miles. That time was on a trip and I didn't even notice, oops. Mike Nasca -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com ...snip... I wouldn't worry too much about "recommendations". I know we all get passionate about our choices but seriously... if you change your oil regularly almost any oil will do, just stay away from the 20w-50s, they're too thick especially when it's cold.

[ron criswell]

I have been using Rotella Dino 15w 40w in my KLR and Concours for the last few years and am using10W 40W Silcolene semi synthetic in my Versy. So.....if I switch to 10W 40W Mobil 1 motorcycle specific, I will have problems on the Versy, Concours and the KLR as far as usage or leaking. The Versy has 5500 miles, the Concours 60,000 miles and the KLR has 54,000 miles??? Criswell Sent from my iPad

On Oct 10, 2011, at 3:45 PM, Mike Frey wrote: > I'm now using Rotella T6 5W40 in everything I have with an engine. > Bikes, Cars, Truck, even the lawn mower. > > Oil is good. Not having oil = bad. > > As far as "feel", I can't tell the difference while riding if the bike > has Mobil 1, Rotella T, or Rotella T6 in it. Those three are pretty much > all I've used in the past 5 years or so. > > Mike > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "clifpayne92115" > > > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > > > Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 7:56:09 AM > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] oil > > > > Back to an old topic --now new__Can I use the current Rotella full > > synthetic --now 5-40--in my KLRs..The recent article in MCN says NO OK > > I'm still too cheap to pay $8 a quart for Motorcycle specific oil > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Khoury]

The "leaks caused by switching oils" is largely a myth. Some engines that used dino oil for years and then switched to synth developed leaks. The reason (it's said) is that there would have been leaks in those engines earlier had the gaps not been plugged with sludge. (It's said) that the synth begins to dissolve the sludge and leaks appear. There's been no "scientific" proof that switching oils causes leaks in other cases. I'm a fan of synthetics but as I said, I'm trying out Delvac in the KLR because someone I trust suggested that my change interval is short enough for it not to make a difference and made a good case for why oils designed for turbodiesel trucks make good candidates for motorcycle oils (high film strength, low ash, high shear resistance, excellent heat tolerance and low sludging). The V-Strom still gets full synth, either Rotella T6 or Mobil 1 in 5w-40 because I ride it a lot harder than I ride the KLR and my change interval is longer, per the manual's recommendation.

----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Criswell" To: "Mike Frey" Cc: "List KLR" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 6:20:02 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] oil I have been using Rotella Dino 15w 40w in my KLR and Concours for the last few years and am using10W 40W Silcolene semi synthetic in my Versy. So.....if I switch to 10W 40W Mobil 1 motorcycle specific, I will have problems on the Versy, Concours and the KLR as far as usage or leaking. The Versy has 5500 miles, the Concours 60,000 miles and the KLR has 54,000 miles??? Criswell Sent from my iPad On Oct 10, 2011, at 3:45 PM, Mike Frey < mike21b@... > wrote: > I'm now using Rotella T6 5W40 in everything I have with an engine. > Bikes, Cars, Truck, even the lawn mower. > > Oil is good. Not having oil = bad. > > As far as "feel", I can't tell the difference while riding if the bike > has Mobil 1, Rotella T, or Rotella T6 in it. Those three are pretty much > all I've used in the past 5 years or so. > > Mike > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "clifpayne92115" < clif2payne@... > > > To: "DSN KLR650" < DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > > > > Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2011 7:56:09 AM > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] oil > > > > Back to an old topic --now new__Can I use the current Rotella full > > synthetic --now 5-40--in my KLRs..The recent article in MCN says NO OK > > I'm still too cheap to pay $8 a quart for Motorcycle specific oil > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]