lawyers advice on insurance nklr

DSN_KLR650
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daylan_darby
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jul 12, 2004 5:26 pm

mechanic needed in salt lake city, recommendations?

Post by daylan_darby » Sun Jun 12, 2011 7:53 pm

I believe I've wrecked my starter (clicking noises when starter button is pushed and what appears to be plenty of juice so I don't think it is my battery). Any recommendations for a mechanic in Salt Lake City? Also I think I ruined? my rear brake when re-installing the tire from a replaced tube because I can't seem to free wheel the back tire (in neutral of course) with the brake installed (which might have broke the starter). 1999 KLR650 if that matters - thanks.

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

mechanic needed in salt lake city, recommendations?

Post by Jeff Saline » Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:26 pm

On Mon, 13 Jun 2011 00:30:38 -0000 "daylan_darby" writes:
> I believe I've wrecked my starter (clicking noises when starter > button is pushed and what appears to be plenty of juice so I don't > think it is my battery). Any recommendations for a mechanic in Salt > Lake City? > > Also I think I ruined? my rear brake when re-installing the tire > from a replaced tube because I can't seem to free wheel the back > tire (in neutral of course) with the brake installed (which might > have broke the starter). > > 1999 KLR650 if that matters - thanks.
<><><><><> <><><><><> dalan_darby, I'm gonna suggest the starter not starting and the rear wheel not wheeling are not related. Try jumping the battery from a car, truck, garden tractor etc and see what happens. The jumping vehicle need not be running but the jumping battery must be fully charged and the jumper cables must be in good condition and make good connections at both batteries. I'll bet its a battery issue and not a starter issue. For the wheel not spinning... try removing the caliper and see if the wheel spins with the caliper removed. If it does, reinstall the caliper and make sure a brake pad is on each side of the rotor. Sometimes the caliper gets reinstalled with both pads on the same side as the rotor. That will cause a problem. Sorry I don't know anyone in Salt Lake City. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . ____________________________________________________________ Groupon™ Official Site 1 ridiculously huge coupon a day. Get 50-90% off your city's best! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4df57554e10e346e503st01vuc

revmaaatin
Posts: 1727
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:07 pm

mechanic needed in salt lake city, recommendations?

Post by revmaaatin » Sun Jun 12, 2011 9:54 pm

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "daylan_darby" wrote:
> > I believe I've wrecked my starter (clicking noises when starter button is pushed and what appears to be plenty of juice so I don't think it is my battery). Any recommendations for a mechanic in Salt Lake City? > > Also I think I ruined? my rear brake when re-installing the tire from a replaced tube because I can't seem to free wheel the back tire (in neutral of course) with the brake installed (which might have broke the starter). > > 1999 KLR650 if that matters - thanks. >
Daylan- Well, perhaps. I don't know in meck's in SLCIty, but I know a few here on the list and you can probably fix this yourself. smile. I suspect you have a bad connection or a bad battery. If you don't have a volt meter, try to borrow one or a small compact one is available for about $20 at Radio Shack. The clerk there will show you how to use the most basic functions. Your battery should be 12.6V. =2.1v/cell. Anything less begins to make the battery suspect. If it is less than 12.6: make sure the battery is correctly serviced = proper level of fluid. If your battery is a lead acid battery: Top off with DISTILLED WATER and charge the battery on a 1a charger. Pay attention and use due care: The fluid in the battery is sulfuric acid and will burn you before it will warn you. Battery acid in your eyes will blind you. ouch. If you battery is a sealed type and will not take a charge, you have found your problem that $40-80 will cure. If you batery is a lead acid battery and is low on fluid, you may get to service it and recharge it if no damage has occurred. otherwise, back to the $40-80 cure. More if you want the super delux model. While the battery is charging: The battery terminals/leads are completely clean and the ground strap (negative terminal) is secure to the bike. Make sure the attachment to the starter solenoid (positive side of the battery) is not loose and the lead from the solenoid to the starter is also tight. Let it set for at least an hour after charging and recheck the voltage. should =12.6. Anything less, the battery is failing. Reinstall the batery-- With the volt meter reading the voltage at 12.6, hit the starter button. It should not go below 9.5v (others say otherwise if that is to low). If it goes well below 10v and stays there witht the starter button pushed, you have a bad battery. see the $40-$80 cure. Your back brake is most likely in a bind. (Class: Raise your hand if that has happened to you. I see that hand; I see only 6056. The rest of you are liars. wink) Remove the rear caliper (it is held on by two 6mm? Allen bolts) and see if the wheel will roll freely. (As free as a chain will roll with a chain installed). If it still binds, than you have chain binding/alignment problems. Maybe even to tight. If it turns freely-- Suspend the caliper with a piece of wire or bungee cord so that the caliper is not suspended by the brake line. Visually look at the brake pads and see if the 'rattle' within the caliper. (also; Notice if there is plenty of pad remaining. hmmm....) Gently press the piston back into the caliper until it is retracted into the housing. You should be able to do that with your thumbs pressing against the outer brake pads. or with a wide open channel locks (please don't hit this with hammer) or a C-clamp. After you have the caliper pisto retracted: Separate the pads and place the caliper back over the rotor; locate and start both bolts in their holes before tightening either bolt fully. Tight = snug plus 1/8 -1/4 turn more. Remember, you will have to press the r. brake pedal fully a couple of times before it finds its balance point of 'just right'. If all this works out, then while you are at it, check the r. brake fluid level and top it off to 'full'. Both items you have experienced are common occurrences. Batteries need service at least every oil change or =1500 miles in a hot environment especially. Rear brakes get in a wad if not put together with 'due care' during a flat tire or tire change. = 50% of the time! One last thing that you will find helpful: read carefully, perhaps even print it out. http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html It is located in the LINKS of this forum. Let us know how it goes. revmaaatin.

ron criswell
Posts: 1118
Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2000 5:09 pm

mechanic needed in salt lake city, recommendations?

Post by ron criswell » Mon Jun 13, 2011 5:44 am

Gee rev, I have had both issues in the past. I was sure something drastically was wrong way out in the vast emptiness of the TX panhandle when my 99' wouldn't start. A loose battery connection was the culprit. KLR brake shoes can be easily installed improperly....heh. I know, I have watched me do it. Criswell Sent from my iPad
On Jun 12, 2011, at 9:54 PM, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "daylan_darby" wrote: > > > > I believe I've wrecked my starter (clicking noises when starter button is pushed and what appears to be plenty of juice so I don't think it is my battery). Any recommendations for a mechanic in Salt Lake City? > > > > Also I think I ruined? my rear brake when re-installing the tire from a replaced tube because I can't seem to free wheel the back tire (in neutral of course) with the brake installed (which might have broke the starter). > > > > 1999 KLR650 if that matters - thanks. > > > Daylan- > Well, perhaps. > I don't know in meck's in SLCIty, but I know a few here on the list and you can probably fix this yourself. smile. > > I suspect you have a bad connection or a bad battery. > If you don't have a volt meter, try to borrow one or a small compact one is available for about $20 at Radio Shack. The clerk there will show you how to use the most basic functions. > > Your battery should be 12.6V. =2.1v/cell. > Anything less begins to make the battery suspect. > If it is less than 12.6: > make sure the battery is correctly serviced = proper level of fluid. If your battery is a lead acid battery: > Top off with DISTILLED WATER and charge the battery on a 1a charger. > Pay attention and use due care: > The fluid in the battery is sulfuric acid and will burn you before it will warn you. Battery acid in your eyes will blind you. ouch. > > If you battery is a sealed type and will not take a charge, you have found your problem that $40-80 will cure. If you batery is a lead acid battery and is low on fluid, you may get to service it and recharge it if no damage has occurred. otherwise, back to the $40-80 cure. More if you want the super delux model. > > While the battery is charging: > The battery terminals/leads are completely clean and the ground strap (negative terminal) is secure to the bike. > Make sure the attachment to the starter solenoid (positive side of the battery) is not loose and the lead from the solenoid to the starter is also tight. > > Let it set for at least an hour after charging and recheck the voltage. should =12.6. Anything less, the battery is failing. > > Reinstall the batery-- > With the volt meter reading the voltage at 12.6, hit the starter button. It should not go below 9.5v (others say otherwise if that is to low). If it goes well below 10v and stays there witht the starter button pushed, you have a bad battery. see the $40-$80 cure. > > Your back brake is most likely in a bind. > (Class: Raise your hand if that has happened to you. I see that hand; I see only 6056. The rest of you are liars. wink) > > Remove the rear caliper (it is held on by two 6mm? Allen bolts) and see if the wheel will roll freely. (As free as a chain will roll with a chain installed). > If it still binds, than you have chain binding/alignment problems. Maybe even to tight. > If it turns freely-- > Suspend the caliper with a piece of wire or bungee cord so that the caliper is not suspended by the brake line. > > Visually look at the brake pads and see if the 'rattle' within the caliper. (also; Notice if there is plenty of pad remaining. hmmm....) > > Gently press the piston back into the caliper until it is retracted into the housing. > You should be able to do that with your thumbs pressing against the outer brake pads. or with a wide open channel locks (please don't hit this with hammer) or a C-clamp. > After you have the caliper pisto retracted: > Separate the pads and place the caliper back over the rotor; locate and start both bolts in their holes before tightening either bolt fully. Tight = snug plus 1/8 -1/4 turn more. > > Remember, you will have to press the r. brake pedal fully a couple of times before it finds its balance point of 'just right'. If all this works out, then while you are at it, check the r. brake fluid level and top it off to 'full'. > > Both items you have experienced are common occurrences. > Batteries need service at least every oil change or =1500 miles in a hot environment especially. > Rear brakes get in a wad if not put together with 'due care' during a flat tire or tire change. = 50% of the time! > > One last thing that you will find helpful: read carefully, perhaps even print it out. > http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > It is located in the LINKS of this forum. > > Let us know how it goes. > > revmaaatin. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ronald Criswell
Posts: 435
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 5:29 pm

lawyers advice on insurance nklr

Post by Ronald Criswell » Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:41 am

I meant teeth brush.
On Jun 13, 2011, at 9:32 AM, Ron Criswell wrote: > Hey you know why the tooth brush was likely invented in Arkansas? Any where else it would have been called a tooth brush, heh! > > You know what a lady in Arkansas and a tornado have in common? They are both gonna get a trailer, heh. > > I have lawyer jokes also. > > Criswell > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jun 13, 2011, at 8:44 AM, mark ward wrote: > > > AAA medical, 1 claim in may 09, when I cracked 4 ribs, was taken care of very well. > > > > The ER charged WAY to much for a couple of Xrays and a long wait............. > > 2.5hrs & the only one sitting in there, there was a BBQ picinic lunch going on in the parking lot, Doc said sorry got distracted eating and talking. > > THEN state police gave a ticket for leaving the sceen of accident, $750. to GO TO THE HOSPITAL, 90 miles, (No cell coverage) Gave that to a lawyer instead. > > > > The lady state cop, AND the lawyer made Yankee coments. > > Cop: You yankee's think were just Hicks, and will fall for anything. (to my answer why I didn't report it at the time. > > (no one else hurt, I walked away & mostly paint scrapped on bike, thought $200-300 buffout) > > > > Layer: YA, the cops get mad when Northeners, pass threw, thinking people from Arkansaw are just Dumb & uneducated Hillbillys. > > > > (It Was a bigger city about 50 miles from little rock.) > > > > I NEVER thought Hillbilly are dumb ALL MY dads side of the family are from the mountains of NC. > > > > BUT I DO NOW BELEIVE THE ARKANSAW PEOPLE ARE ALL THEIVES! > > > > COPS, hospital, lawyer, HONDA DEALER, > > (honda, damaged My radiator SAID OOPS SORRY, later denied it, and stole something off the bike.) > > > > Arkansaw OZARKS is a Beutifull place to ride, But Don't think I will return. > > > > --- On Mon, 6/13/11, Flower Jamie wrote: > > > > From: Flower Jamie > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: lawyers advice on Insurance > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > Date: Monday, June 13, 2011, 6:29 AM > > > > > > > > Have you had any claims? Easy for them to charge less if they're not set up to give good service when you need it. > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Stuart Mumford
Posts: 1178
Joined: Tue Apr 11, 2000 6:45 pm

mechanic needed in salt lake city, recommendations?

Post by Stuart Mumford » Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:00 pm

I believe I've wrecked my starter (clicking noises when starter button is pushed and what appears to be plenty of juice so I don't think it is my battery). Any recommendations for a mechanic in Salt Lake City? Also I think I ruined? my rear brake when re-installing the tire from a replaced tube because I can't seem to free wheel the back tire (in neutral of course) with the brake installed (which might have broke the starter). 1999 KLR650 if that matters - thanks. -------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) Your battery cables are loose at the battery end under the seat. Tighten, fixed. 2) Your inboard brake pad is cockeyed in the caliper. Remove from bike, eyeball pad, jiggle straight, reinstall. Fixed. Thanks CA Stu A13

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