[dsn_klr650] need help

[Doug Pippin]

Wayne Drilling the slide hole larger 7/64 recommended size, although some people use 1/8 inch will give you quicker throttle response. It will likely lower you fuel mileage slightly, mostly because you'll like the quicker response and be on the throttle more. If you haven't bought the new slide/diaphragm it much cheaper to purchase the it from Harley Davidson as the Keihin CVK40 carburetor is also use on a Harley 883. Kawasaki part number 43028-1062 is over $112.00 Harley Davidson part number 27585-88 is about $45 If you need to order from the Internet you can find the diaphragm here http://www.cyclewareables.com/pages/mikuni_slide_diaphraghms/mikuni_slie_diaphragms.htm I use a few small dabs of BelRay waterproof grease to hold the diaphragm in the groove while installing the cover. You likely won't need it on a new diaphragm but the trick for reassembling the diaphragm (used) is to soak it in hot water for a few minutes prior to installing. Doug in NC ---------- At 12:42 PM 12/17/2008, you wrote:

>Carb Question > Posted by: "wayne_blckbrn" wayne_blckbrn@... wayne_blckbrn > Date: Tue Dec 16, 2008 2:36 pm ((PST)) > >I'M ABOUT TO REPLACE THE DIAPHRAGM AND SLIDE ON THE MULE. MY >QUESTION IS, IF I DRILL THE SLIDE HOLE JUST A BIT BIGGER WHAT WOULD >HAPPEN. ALSO, WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST THING TO USE TO HOLD THE >DIAPHRAGM IN PLACE DURING ASSEMBLE.

---------- Doug Pippin 828-684-8488 d_pippin_89@... ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Cindy & Wayne Burner]

I put the Kehin part sold by HD in my 1986 this summer, and have an issue with the throttle response. I am thinking I am going to do the slide drilling, and a needle spacing, as the throttle does not respond until almost 1/4 twist, even though the slide seems to be functioning as it should. It might be a little hard to test drive as it is snowing here in NH right now. At least the power is back on after being off for five days after a nasty ice storm, lots of trees and wires still in the roads. Happy Holidays Wayne(rice)Burner

[Wayne Blackburn]

THANKS FOR THE REPLY I PAID 35$ FOR IT AT TPIMOTORCYCLEPARTS.COM. ALL WENT WELL ,AND I LIKE THE LITTLE GAIN IN THE BOTTOM END.

--- On Wed, 12/17/08, Doug Pippin wrote: From: Doug Pippin Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Carb Question To: "DSN_KLR650 Yahoo Groups" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Cc: wayne_blckbrn@... Date: Wednesday, December 17, 2008, 2:01 PM Wayne Drilling the slide hole larger 7/64 recommended size, although some people use 1/8 inch will give you quicker throttle response. It will likely lower you fuel mileage slightly, mostly because you'll like the quicker response and be on the throttle more. If you haven't bought the new slide/diaphragm it much cheaper to purchase the it from Harley Davidson as the Keihin CVK40 carburetor is also use on a Harley 883. Kawasaki part number 43028-1062 is over $112.00 Harley Davidson part number 27585-88 is about $45 If you need to order from the Internet you can find the diaphragm here http://www.cyclewar eables.com/ pages/mikuni_ slide_diaphraghm s/mikuni_ slie_diaphragms. htm I use a few small dabs of BelRay waterproof grease to hold the diaphragm in the groove while installing the cover. You likely won't need it on a new diaphragm but the trick for reassembling the diaphragm (used) is to soak it in hot water for a few minutes prior to installing. Doug in NC ---------- At 12:42 PM 12/17/2008, you wrote: >Carb Question > Posted by: "wayne_blckbrn" wayne_blckbrn@ yahoo.com wayne_blckbrn > Date: Tue Dec 16, 2008 2:36 pm ((PST)) > >I'M ABOUT TO REPLACE THE DIAPHRAGM AND SLIDE ON THE MULE. MY >QUESTION IS, IF I DRILL THE SLIDE HOLE JUST A BIT BIGGER WHAT WOULD >HAPPEN. ALSO, WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST THING TO USE TO HOLD THE >DIAPHRAGM IN PLACE DURING ASSEMBLE. ---------- Doug Pippin 828-684-8488 d_pippin_ 89@bellsouth. net ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bill Watson]

Jeff, I agree that the slide will raise quicker but I don't see why that would necessarily make it richer. As the needle lifts further out of the jet (larger opening for fuel as you point out), the slide is also creating a larger opening for air to enter the engine. I didn't see drilling the slide as a mixture thing, just a timing-of-response thing. Bill Watson Phoenix, AZ www.xanga.com/watt_man [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 17:29:19 -0800 (PST) Bill Watson writes:

> Jeff, I agree that the slide will raise quicker but I don't see why > that would necessarily make it richer. As the needle lifts further > out of the jet (larger opening for fuel as you point out), the slide > is also creating a larger opening for air to enter the engine. > > I didn't see drilling the slide as a mixture thing, just a > timing-of-response thing. > > Bill Watson > Phoenix, AZ > www.xanga.com/watt_man

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Bill, I was seeing it as the throttle plate is the restriction to air flow so if the slide goes up faster the needle lifting further from the jet allows more fuel to mix with close to the same amount of air as before drilling. I was thinking the air flow wouldn't be much different since the throttle plate is down stream. Maybe I've got it wrong. Best, Jeff ____________________________________________________________ Earn your associate's criminal justice degree and start your career training today. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2jutnzCk3sblyU3l9HT6QCyG0pQyemSLdiKeM0xqCp2iyLC/

[Ross Lindberg]

For what it's worth, I drilled my stock carb slide and didn't make any needle changes. I was really surprised at the difference in throttle response. While it doesn't actually increase the power of the engine, I feel that it makes it feel like it has more power because it is more responsive. It doesn't bog when I whack the throttle. Ross Lindberg Fertile, MN

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bill Watson wrote: > > Jeff, I agree that the slide will raise quicker but I don't see why that would necessarily make it richer. As the needle lifts further out of the jet (larger opening for fuel as you point out), the slide is also creating a larger opening for air to enter the engine. > > I didn't see drilling the slide as a mixture thing, just a timing- of-response thing. > > Bill Watson > Phoenix, AZ > www.xanga.com/watt_man > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Larry]

The safest way to install the diaphram is with the carb off. Fold the diaphram over so that slide assembly looks like a right side up umbrella rather than an upside down one. Put a finger in the carb intake so you can control the decent of the slide. When the diaphram lip settles in the groove, use that "finger' to hold it at that location while putting the spring in place..then put the cover on and hold it firmly in place. Take you finger out of the intake and install the 4 screws. This works well with diaphrams that have "grown" in diameter. LB. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "wayne_blckbrn" wrote:

> > I'M ABOUT TO REPLACE THE DIAPHRAGM AND SLIDE ON THE MULE. > MY QUESTION IS, IF I DRILL THE SLIDE HOLE JUST A BIT BIGGER > WHAT WOULD HAPPEN. > ALSO, WHAT WOULD BE THE BEST THING TO USE TO HOLD THE > DIAPHRAGM IN PLACE DURING ASSEMBLE. >

[ED]

Hello All, Two carburetor questions for anyone who might be able to help: 1) KLR carb comes stock with how many turns out for the fuel-air mixture screw? 2) There are two small brass-colored holes on the bottom of the intake (air box) side of the carb. One on the Left seems to lead to several connecting chambers. One toward the center (Right) seems well plugged up and not connected to anything. Is this correct? The story with my bike is that it was left sitting with gas in the bowl after a friend borrowed it while I was away. I returned to find it wouldn't idle without the choke. Took it out to do a carb cleaning/rebuild with a can of carb cleaner but found two problems related to the questions above. I was missing (or lost) the small washer in the fuel air mixture screw and now wonder if my original turns are accurate. Secondly, I cannot get carb cleaner to flow from the body when plugged into the Center (right) brass-colored hole when the body is completely disassembled... whereas the Left seems to actually be doing something. Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to put the carb back in the bike to find out it still doesn't idle well because I overlooked something. Thanks!

[Jeff Saline]

On Thu, 12 Mar 2009 04:12:33 -0000 "Ed" writes:

> Hello All, > > Two carburetor questions for anyone who might be able to help: > > 1) KLR carb comes stock with how many turns out for the fuel-air > mixture screw? > > 2) There are two small brass-colored holes on the bottom of the > intake (air box) side of the carb. One on the Left seems to lead to > several connecting chambers. One toward the center (Right) seems > well plugged up and not connected to anything. Is this correct? > > The story with my bike is that it was left sitting with gas in the > bowl after a friend borrowed it while I was away. I returned to find > it wouldn't idle without the choke. Took it out to do a carb > cleaning/rebuild with a can of carb cleaner but found two problems > related to the questions above. I was missing (or lost) the small > washer in the fuel air mixture screw and now wonder if my original > turns are accurate. Secondly, I cannot get carb cleaner to flow from > the body when plugged into the Center (right) brass-colored hole > when the body is completely disassembled... whereas the Left seems > to actually be doing something. > > Any help would be appreciated. I don't want to put the carb back in > the bike to find out it still doesn't idle well because I overlooked > something. > > Thanks!

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Ed, For your question about how many turns out it depends on the year of the bike. The Clymer's manual I have which covers 1987-2003 says 1 3/8 turns. That is what my 2003 KLR was set at. Now using the supplement to the basic manual of the factory two manual set the supplement for 1987-2003 says for A1, A2 it should be 1 3/8 turns out. For A3~ it says 1 7/8 turns out. That's in the table on page 2-4. Then if you continue to the rear of the supplement you find the section (16) for 2000-2001 models. On page 16-6 of my supplement it says 1 3/8 turns out. In section 17 which is 2002-2003 models it doesn't note any change. I don't have access to a later manual for 2004-2009. My suggestion for setting the pilot screw on a stock KLR (meaning no exhaust or radical air box mods and no carb needle shimming) is to put the screw at 1 3/8 turns out. Then get the bike to operating temperature. Set the idle at about 1,200 rpm. Turn the pilot screw out until the idle starts to stumble. Then note how many turns in you go as you turn the pilot screw in until it again stumbles. Then back the screw out 1/2 the turns from out stumble to in stumble. Then reset the idle speed to about 1,200 rpm and do the adjustment one more time. Now take a test ride and see if the transition from idle to beginning use of the throttle under load is smooth. If it's smooth leave the pilot screw adjustment alone. If the engine stumbles open (turn out) the screw 1/16th of a turn and test again. Continue to do this until you have a smooth transition from idle to off idle under load. Some folks just turn the screw out a certain amount because others have done that. It might be close and it might not be close. Having the pilot screw open too much for a smooth idle and transition just allows excess fuel use all the time. Fuel economy will suffer a tad to a lot depending on how open the screw is set. I think many folks turn the pilot screw out to stop exhaust popping on closed throttle deceleration which helps eliminate or reduce a lean fuel air mixture. You can do the same thing manually by cracking the throttle a tad if the popping bothers you. For the two holes question... if you have a Clymer's manual it explains the function of the carb quite well in the Fuel System section. The left hole goes to the pilot jet. The right hole goes to the pilot mixture screw and then into the throat of the carb. If you look at the engine side of the carb inside the throat below the throttle plate (butterfly valve) you'll see some holes. Closest to the plate and near center are a group of about 4 holes. To the right is a larger single hole. Lowest and below the group of holes is a small single hole. That last hole is where the idle mixture is discharged from the right hole (intake side of carb) and pilot mixture screw you were asking about. So spraying carb cleaner into the intake side right hole should get discharge at the pilot mixture screw hole if it's out and the lower single hole on the engine side of the carb. Sounds like you might have discovered the source of your idle problem. Maybe consider using a light smear of silicone plumbers grease on the o-rings you are touching. You can get the grease at the hardware store in the plumbing section. Do not get it smeared on the jets as it will easily clog the orifices. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Digital Photography - Click Now. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTDvmTLHzEwJ6HE2lziCCLexbTO8tyV0OxBvD10QhtPX7TOSZ6TSaE/

[Kevin]

Thanks for all of your suggestions regarding my rough-running '95 KLR after I cleaned the carb, replaced the carb diaphragm and did the 22 mod. Shortly after I wrote you, the symptoms vanished, so I did nothing. Now, though, a new wrinkle has developed. The engine starts and runs well, but seems reluctant to return to idle. If the engine's running at, say, 4,000 rpms and I pull in the clutch and let off the throttle, it takes a few seconds for it to come down to idle. Sometimes it pauses briefly at 2,000 rpms before going any slower. There is no stickiness in the throttle linkage. What could be causing this? How do I fix it? The upside of all this carb confusion is that I was motivated to do a lot of other maintenance chores while waiting for the carb diaphragm to arrive. New fork seals and brake pads. Ride-On sealer / balancer in the tires. Finally installed the Ricor Intiminators that I bought on sale a year or two ago. Had all this stuff sitting around for a long time. Didn't want to do it in winter when it was cold; didn't want to do it in spring when I could be riding instead. Nice to finally have it done; I can really feel the difference. The weather here has been particularly nice. The ranchers have burned the dead growth off their fields, the new grass is sprouting up, and some places in rural Oklahoma look remarkably like Ireland. I've lived here most of my life and continue discover beautiful new places I never knew existed before I had a KLR. Kevin