[dsn_klr650] need help

[Chris]

Well from a rough interpretation of the fiche on ronayers, it would seem I just made a 'classic' post. I probably knocked my fuel line off moving my tank around. Obviously I haven't ridden since working on it, and at least now I'll know why it won't start heh. I thought the tank had an odd amount of free play in the tubing.

> I noticed while wrenching yesterday something that I forgot to check > out in the manual. > > On the left side of the carb, there is a white plastic hose barb up at > the top of the carb housing. Any idea what this is for? There was no > hose on mine. > > I'm going to feel pretty stupid if this is the fuel line and I popped > it off while monkeying around with the tank yesterday. Have a field > day if this is the case . > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ > courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

[Chris]

Yup, I found a better diagram after I posted. Seems I didn't have a vent line on the carb, just the open barb sitting there. Well at least now I have a reason to not put off the T-mod any longer. Thanks

> The fuel hose connection is on the left side of the carb, low (near > float bowl mating surface) with a (usually) black plastic swivel > fitting. > > The one at the top left is usually for the float bowl vent. This > connects to a hose that runs down with the other drain next to the > shock > (stock setup), or it goes to a T fitting where one hose runs down and > the other runs on top of the battery or up the top tube into the air > space between the steering tube gussets. > > Devon >

[Paul Ricketts]

I was out riding recently (on a cold day) and was pushing the bike pretty hard (past redline) when it hickupped. About 2 miles later it just died on me. Took it home, disassembled the carb and discovered that the diaphram on the slide would not go back (it was too large) into the groove. It appears that it had expanded. I have a spare carb, so I used the slide (and diaphram) out of that one and the bike started right up. Has anyone had a similar problem? Thanks, Paul Las Cruces, New Mexico --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Stanford Johnsey]

The diaphram is always kinda hard to get in. Some use grease to hold it in place while replacing the cap. I have heard of bikes where a slide would stick up, last one a Honda VTR 1000 of a friend. If you are reving to the redline (7,500) you are going slower than you could. The hp peak comes at 6,500 or so and falls off quickly after that. Paul Ricketts wrote: I was out riding recently (on a cold day) and was pushing the bike pretty hard (past redline) when it hickupped. About 2 miles later it just died on me. Took it home, disassembled the carb and discovered that the diaphram on the slide would not go back (it was too large) into the groove. It appears that it had expanded. I have a spare carb, so I used the slide (and diaphram) out of that one and the bike started right up. Has anyone had a similar problem? Thanks, Paul Las Cruces, New Mexico --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Yahoo! Groups Links --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[squasher_1]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Paul Ricketts wrote:

> I was out riding recently (on a cold day) and was pushing the bike

pretty hard (past redline) when it hickupped. About 2 miles later it just died on me. Took it home, disassembled the carb and discovered that the diaphram on the slide would not go back (it was too large) into the groove. It appears that it had expanded.

> > I have a spare carb, so I used the slide (and diaphram) out of that

one and the bike started right up. Has anyone had a similar problem?

> > Thanks, > > Paul > Las Cruces, New Mexico > >

Mine got bigger also. I think it's cause by some carb sprays and some carb cleaners. Heres the trick I use to reinstall the diaphram. 1) put the slide back into the carb 2) put the other inerds to the slide back inside. (needle, white plastic holder and spring) 3) put black cover back on. allow the diaphram to hang out past it's seating possition. but do NOT press down hard on the black cover 4) replace the 4 screws that hold the black cover. ONLY BY HAND!!! (you should be able to lightly push the diaphram into the carb) 4) get something small and thin thats NOT sharp (paper claip works) and press one section of the diaphram into its seat. start at the corner by 1 screw. 5) lightly press down with your finger wher you just pushed the diaphram in. 6) keep going around the carb pushing in teh diaphram. 7) when you get to the next screw, tighten down the one before it so the diaphram doesnt pop back out 8)once you have done 360 degrees around the carb, the diaphram should be properly seated in its grove. 9) tighten all 4 screws to spec (whatever that is) hope this helps 4)

[JRC]

> I have a spare carb, so I used the slide (and diaphram) out of that

one and the bike started right up. Has anyone had a similar problem? I haven't had that problem, but the diaphragms aren't too hard to get back in with the right technique. Put the diaphragm , needle, etc., back into the carb bore. Just let it go into place naturally; don't try to force the diaphragm lip into the grove. Lightly place the cover over the top. With *very* light pressure, turn the cover clockwise (or counterclockwise, it doesn't matter) until the seal drops into the groove and the cover drops down in place. Note that you're not turning the cover exactly on its axis; the motion is slightly eccentric to the axis, more of an oval than a circle. Even though the diaphragm on my KLR is slightly bigger than the groove circumference (maybe it's supposed to be that way??) getting the cover back on takes about 20 seconds if I do it this way. Good luck.

[rsanders30117]

Whoa, back up & rethink this! From direct experience, the rubber diaphragm is extremely easy to tear. You've got to be very careful handling it. A diaphragm that has been used will swell a bit from asorbing gas fumes, making it difficult to install shortly after being removed. It will shrink back if left out to "dry" for an extended period of time. When installing the diaphragm, use bearing grease on the groove to stick the diaphragm in place while installing the cap. If you can't get it to stay in the groove this way, the diaphragm needs to sit out for a while longer. If installing a new slider / diaphragm, you should polish to new slider to insure completely smooth operation. Be sure remove any obvious burrs. As the slider wears in this will occur naturally but a new slider may be too tight for initial operation.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "JRC" wrote: > > > > I have a spare carb, so I used the slide (and diaphram) out of that > one and the bike started right up. Has anyone had a similar problem? > > I haven't had that problem, but the diaphragms aren't too hard to get > back in with the right technique. > > Put the diaphragm , needle, etc., back into the carb bore. Just let > it go into place naturally; don't try to force the diaphragm lip into > the grove. Lightly place the cover over the top. With *very* light > pressure, turn the cover clockwise (or counterclockwise, it doesn't > matter) until the seal drops into the groove and the cover drops down > in place. Note that you're not turning the cover exactly on its axis; > the motion is slightly eccentric to the axis, more of an oval than a > circle. > Even though the diaphragm on my KLR is slightly bigger than the groove > circumference (maybe it's supposed to be that way??) getting the cover > back on takes about 20 seconds if I do it this way. > > Good luck.

[Tony JONES]

So I took my carb apart yet again (bad idling -- see previous postings). Sure enough the low-speed/pilot was dirty (again -- yes I installed a inline brass fuel filter). Previous time of disssembly I messed up the thread so it's a bit chewed up. Have lots of good phillips drivers but clearly no good slot ones, trip to Sears rectified that. I was at the dealers anyways so I figured I'd just buy a new jet. They had none. The service guys said it was still fine and offered to clean it with compressed air (I'd already soaked it in carb cleaner) and they managed to actually block it again Clearly there is some tough to remove crap in there. I can run fine wire through it from one direction and it opens it up (although viewed thru a magnifying glass, the opening doesn't look perfectly round -- damaged by the wire??), but if I run the wire thru from the other direction it will tend to block it again, no matter how much carb cleaner I run thru it. With it being chewed up I'm just gonna get a new one as I don't want to have to keep messing with the carb. Seems like $9 of cheap insurance. I believe a #38 is stock (for a 49 stater)? Gut tells me to stick with stock until I get the bike going again, it's been sick for a year. Unless there is a really good reason to go with a different size? I ask as I see lots of discussion in the archives about deviating from stock. I did drill out the pilot screw yesterday and set it to 1 7/8 turns back out which is stock according to the manual. Tony

[Denis Dimick]

Has anyone ever put a vacuum gauge on their carb while tuning it (turning the pilot screw) if so how mach vacuum did it pull? Thanks, Denis [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ross Lindberg]

I heard something on the posts here about putting a couple of #4 washers under the needle. What exactly is this supposed to do, and how involved is it? I have already backed the idle mixture screw out and removed the airbox snorkle. Ross Lindberg Fertile, MN