left radiator shroud decal for 2000 klr650

[navyboy652002]

Hey thanks again for the advice guys! So after messing with the carb off the bike I am fairly certin that the starter jet, pilot jet and main air jet had some if not complete blockage! I beleive I cleaned them all out as I dit everything else. Prior to reassemble everything was clean and appeared to allow air and carb cleaner thru! After I got the carb back on it took a little time to get it to start as I had to get fuel back in the carb but it was promising as it started with out the choke/enricher just like it use to back when I first did the dynojet kit. Now for the bad. I think it is still running lean? I still have the surging around 2500 rpm's? Still shoots up to 3500 or so and fluctuates some? I didn't get to troubleshoot much as it was getting cold & dark. I did mess with the air adjust, but still surged? In is richer? Also messing with the choke/enricher while the bike was running, I was only able to find a sweet spot where it would add 150-200 rpm's, it too much it would die and before the sweet spot no change? Also maybe the lean is a fuel supply issue??? Could my petcock not be flowing enough? I didn't mess with the float level but did clean it out and seemed fine? I'll check for air leaks tommorrow Thanks, Seth

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > The only part in the carb that absolutely has to be clean is the orifice of the pilot jet. The only way you can be sure that it is clean is to remove this jet and look through it and if you can t see through the orifice then it is plugged. It is such a small opening that a piece of lint could be stuck there and restricting the flow of fuel or a piece of dirt or rust could be stopping the fuel flow completely. I believe most air screw settings are less than one turn from closed. I have seen them at around 3/4 of a turn and have heard of some that were completely closed from the factory. I believe the Dynojet recommendations are usually pretty rich for most situations. That is a safe setting since adjusting your carb too lean can cause all sorts of bad things to happen. I d suspect that your air screw should be set around 1 1/2 to 2 turns out and still have good performance. Every bike and every situation is different so YMMV. > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > From: navyboy652002 > Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 7:46 PM > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Hard Starting/Carb Prob? > > > Hey all thanks for you replies and suggestions, to keep from multiple replys I'll reply to you each by name! > > Fred, > I justed pulled the carb out to see if there was anything pluged as you suggested. I sprayed into every thing and the carb was already very clean! I am not sure but the pilot jet may hav been pluged as I sprayed into it wile in the carb and didn't seem like it was going anywhere but abter I took it out I sprayed the pilot jet out and in to its hole and the carb cleaner went thru, Just need to test it with the jet back in. As for the plug I was running a Iridium DPR8EIX-9. As for the air setting I was running it at about 2.5-2.75 turns which I thought was right around stock? > > Jeff Saline, > I did the valves roughly about the same time I did the dynojet kit, so about 2-3K ago. Do you think it is worth another check so soon??? > > Mike Huber, > I have not really looked into spark, I know I am getting some. How would one check to see if I am getting enough? > > Bob, > Don't think I am getting a high speed miss? Last time I rode it (nov-oct) once I got it running it seem to run fine thru all normal rpm's. > > Thanks again all for your help and suggestions.My aim is to get the carb back togeather and on tommorrow after work and see if it is any better? > Seth > > > > --- In mailto:DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > > > Sounds like you may have a plugged or partially plugged pilot jet. The pilot jet and the air screw are the parts of your carburetor that adjust and feed fuel for starting and idling up to about 1/4 throttle position. The diaphragm is for raising the slide and has nothing really to do with metering fuel. The slide, needle and needle jet adjust fuel for the midrange. (1/4 throttle to 3/4 open) I would never add any additives to your fuel that isn t safe for the o-rings and seals in your carb. You may have created a lot of other problems by doing this. It sounds like you have a lean condition and the hard starting and high idle or surging would indicate this. The heat range of your spark plug is the operating temperature of the electrodes on the plug. If you run a plug that is too cold, it could build up deposits on the electrodes and that would effect the performance of your engine. If the plug is too hot, it will burn the electrodes and could also burn your piston. I d recommend a new NGK DPR8EA-9 or the Iridium DPR8EIX-9. I d start by checking your pilot jet and the air screw setting. > > > > Fred > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Michael Martin]

If the petcock isn't allowing sufficient fuel flow, the condition will be more noticeable when the bike is under load and it needs more fuel. The fuel needs when you're running the bike in neutral are very low. There's a possibility that the petcock diaphragm is an air leak source, so be sure to check that, too. Mike Martin, Louisville, KY ________________________________ From: navyboy652002 here it would add 150-200 rpm's, it too much it would die and before the sweet spot no change? Also maybe the lean is a fuel supply issue??? Could my petcock not be flowing enough? I didn't mess with the float level but did clean it out and seemed fine? I'll check for air leaks tommorrow Thanks, Seth [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[salinej1@juno.com]

On Wed, 02 Feb 2011 03:28:23 -0000 "navyboy652002" writes:

> Hey thanks again for the advice guys!

SNIP

> Now for the bad. I think it is still running lean? I still have the > surging around 2500 rpm's? Still shoots up to 3500 or so and > fluctuates some? I didn't get to troubleshoot much as it was getting > cold & dark. I did mess with the air adjust, but still surged? In is > richer? > Also messing with the choke/enricher while the bike was running, I > was only able to find a sweet spot where it would add 150-200 rpm's, > it too much it would die and before the sweet spot no change? > > Also maybe the lean is a fuel supply issue??? Could my petcock not > be flowing enough? I didn't mess with the float level but did clean > it out and seemed fine? > > I'll check for air leaks tomorrow > > Thanks, Seth

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Seth, In is leaner on the pilot mixture screw. That is a fuel circuit not an air circuit. Unless you have an extraordinary petcock fuel delivery issue I don't think that's gonna be your problem on this one. As already suggested it doesn't take much fuel to run under no load conditions. I suppose you could take a good check of the vacuum line to make sure the petcock diaphragm isn't leaking. If it is it can allow fuel to be sucked into the intake tract and will tend to flood the engine when warm at closed throttle idle. I had this happen to mine last year. I don't think the choke (enricher really, like a carb inside a carb) movement means much on a warm engine. I would expect it to stall the engine when applied. I'm wondering if the Dyna needle is firmly in place. If it's rattling around that could cause air/fuel mixture fluctuation which would show up as rpm changes. If it was my bike or at least if I was working on this issue I think I'd change the adjustable mixture screw you added for the stock screw. I've heard but have no experience with the aftermarket screws that the tip taper is different from stock. I personally don't see a need for the aftermarket version as once the idle mixture is set you shouldn't have to mess with it any more. Elevation changes of 10,000 plus feet won't require an adjustment. I would also be putting the screw at about 1 7/8 turns out for starters and see if that improves anything. The mixture screw is really for 0 to about 25% throttle opening. No point in having it richer than needed as it will mess up the needle and main jetting by adding fuel that isn't needed when those are in use. If you jet the needle and main while the idle mixture is rich, when you lean the idle mixture the other mixtures are incorrect. Might also be worth making sure the idle speed is set correctly. If the idle speed screw is a bit too far in it can have the throttle plate open more than it needs to be for a smooth idle. Lots of times folks turn up the idle and get on the beginning of the needle jet when the pilot jet is partially clogged. Once they fix the pilot jet the mixture gets messed with and all that's really needed is to turn the idle speed screw to the correct position. If you really think it's running lean maybe try removing the air filter door and even the air filter. That will change the mixture even leaner and you can see if there is a change in performance. Martin Earl and I did that with his 225TTR last year and quickly determined (in less than 1/4 mile) it was way rich. I think we changed the main jet 4 times before we got it where it needed to be. The engine was way better than the front suspension and brakes after we got it dialed in. Glad you are making good progress. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . ____________________________________________________________ $65/Hr Job - 25 Openings Part-Time job ($20-$65/hr). Requirements: Home Internet Access http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d48e1c0c48d51857ebst01vuc

[P&D]

I've had similar problems, tore the carb and everything else I could think of off and still had some sort of issue. I was about ready to take it to someone smarter than me and before I loaded the bike I checked the breather hose off the top of the carb and it was plugged. (After everything it was something stinkin' simple.) Paul

----- Original Message ----- From: navyboy652002 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2011 7:28 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Hard Starting/Carb Prob? Hey thanks again for the advice guys! So after messing with the carb off the bike I am fairly certin that the starter jet, pilot jet and main air jet had some if not complete blockage! I beleive I cleaned them all out as I dit everything else. Prior to reassemble everything was clean and appeared to allow air and carb cleaner thru! After I got the carb back on it took a little time to get it to start as I had to get fuel back in the carb but it was promising as it started with out the choke/enricher just like it use to back when I first did the dynojet kit. Now for the bad. I think it is still running lean? I still have the surging around 2500 rpm's? Still shoots up to 3500 or so and fluctuates some? I didn't get to troubleshoot much as it was getting cold & dark. I did mess with the air adjust, but still surged? In is richer? Also messing with the choke/enricher while the bike was running, I was only able to find a sweet spot where it would add 150-200 rpm's, it too much it would die and before the sweet spot no change? Also maybe the lean is a fuel supply issue??? Could my petcock not be flowing enough? I didn't mess with the float level but did clean it out and seemed fine? I'll check for air leaks tommorrow Thanks, Seth --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > The only part in the carb that absolutely has to be clean is the orifice of the pilot jet. The only way you can be sure that it is clean is to remove this jet and look through it and if you can t see through the orifice then it is plugged. It is such a small opening that a piece of lint could be stuck there and restricting the flow of fuel or a piece of dirt or rust could be stopping the fuel flow completely. I believe most air screw settings are less than one turn from closed. I have seen them at around 3/4 of a turn and have heard of some that were completely closed from the factory. I believe the Dynojet recommendations are usually pretty rich for most situations. That is a safe setting since adjusting your carb too lean can cause all sorts of bad things to happen. I d suspect that your air screw should be set around 1 1/2 to 2 turns out and still have good performance. Every bike and every situation is different so YMMV. > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > From: navyboy652002 > Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 7:46 PM > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Hard Starting/Carb Prob? > > > Hey all thanks for you replies and suggestions, to keep from multiple replys I'll reply to you each by name! > > Fred, > I justed pulled the carb out to see if there was anything pluged as you suggested. I sprayed into every thing and the carb was already very clean! I am not sure but the pilot jet may hav been pluged as I sprayed into it wile in the carb and didn't seem like it was going anywhere but abter I took it out I sprayed the pilot jet out and in to its hole and the carb cleaner went thru, Just need to test it with the jet back in. As for the plug I was running a Iridium DPR8EIX-9. As for the air setting I was running it at about 2.5-2.75 turns which I thought was right around stock? > > Jeff Saline, > I did the valves roughly about the same time I did the dynojet kit, so about 2-3K ago. Do you think it is worth another check so soon??? > > Mike Huber, > I have not really looked into spark, I know I am getting some. How would one check to see if I am getting enough? > > Bob, > Don't think I am getting a high speed miss? Last time I rode it (nov-oct) once I got it running it seem to run fine thru all normal rpm's. > > Thanks again all for your help and suggestions.My aim is to get the carb back togeather and on tommorrow after work and see if it is any better? > Seth > > > > --- In mailto:DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > > > Sounds like you may have a plugged or partially plugged pilot jet. The pilot jet and the air screw are the parts of your carburetor that adjust and feed fuel for starting and idling up to about 1/4 throttle position. The diaphragm is for raising the slide and has nothing really to do with metering fuel. The slide, needle and needle jet adjust fuel for the midrange. (1/4 throttle to 3/4 open) I would never add any additives to your fuel that isn t safe for the o-rings and seals in your carb. You may have created a lot of other problems by doing this. It sounds like you have a lean condition and the hard starting and high idle or surging would indicate this. The heat range of your spark plug is the operating temperature of the electrodes on the plug. If you run a plug that is too cold, it could build up deposits on the electrodes and that would effect the performance of your engine. If the plug is too hot, it will burn the electrodes and could also burn your piston. I d recommend a new NGK DPR8EA-9 or the Iridium DPR8EIX-9. I d start by checking your pilot jet and the air screw setting. > > > > Fred > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[cycletip]

Fred's information is spot on IMO. It's that time of year when lots of riders are starting up they're bikes for the first time or to just warm the engine and find the bike won't idle smoothly or even stay running. My 03 with very few miles gets the carb flushed almost annually. That little "pilot jet" is a bugger but the good part is how easy the KLR is to work on once you've done it a bit. Can pretty much do a carb removal and cleaning in about 1.5 hours. I know there's lots of riders who shy away from doing this because of the unknown or just not feeling mechanically competent. If there's a need I'd be happy to ID all the steps to detail exactly (how I do this) with perfect results. My 03 has stock exhaust, engine and the settings which work perfectly between sea level and 6 to 7K feet are - two shims on the needle jet (.25 cent stainless washers from ACE), 1 3/4 - 2 turns on pilot air screw (cap removed). All CA smog plumbing removed. The bike runs good as a stock KLR can run IMHO. The simple chore will transform a lean running KLR! Anyone with bit of patients and a few simple tools can do it. Monty

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > The only part in the carb that absolutely has to be clean is the orifice of the pilot jet. The only way you can be sure that it is clean is to remove this jet and look through it and if you can t see through the orifice then it is plugged. It is such a small opening that a piece of lint could be stuck there and restricting the flow of fuel or a piece of dirt or rust could be stopping the fuel flow completely. I believe most air screw settings are less than one turn from closed. I have seen them at around 3/4 of a turn and have heard of some that were completely closed from the factory. I believe the Dynojet recommendations are usually pretty rich for most situations. That is a safe setting since adjusting your carb too lean can cause all sorts of bad things to happen. I d suspect that your air screw should be set around 1 1/2 to 2 turns out and still have good performance. Every bike and every situation is different so YMMV. > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com

[navyboy652002]

Ok Update. I mess with it for about an hour after work. First I took off the air filter and cover as suggested. Then went to start it and had to use the choke/enricher at full to get it to start (unlike yesterday?). Then had to warm it up with the choke/enricher on for a min, to get it to idle on it's own. Then checked for air leaks. Used both carb cleaner and starter spray. I checked the petcock for air leaks as well and did so with sprays and by disconnecting the vac and pluging the hose. Didn't find any air leaks! Also check the carb breather for blockage(as suggested) but didn't see any(sprayed carb cleaner in and appeared to go thru) I have that "T" mod, if that make any difference? With the air filter on or off the bike still surges and rev's above 2500 rpm's and now I am getting a pop or 2(backfire) on decel after a rev above 2000-2500 rpm's??? Great! I wonder what that means? (air cutoff?) So now at least the bike starts but it still has the surging and now had backfiring? My next plan is to take in some more advice and probably look and the valves to see if they have indeed gone out of spec.? But looks like if you all agree that the air cut off valve need another look, I'll pull the carb again. Thanks, Seth

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "P&D" wrote: > > I've had similar problems, tore the carb and everything else I could think of off and still had some sort of issue. I was about ready to take it to someone smarter than me and before I loaded the bike I checked the breather hose off the top of the carb and it was plugged. (After everything it was something stinkin' simple.) > > Paul > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: navyboy652002 > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2011 7:28 PM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Hard Starting/Carb Prob? > > > > Hey thanks again for the advice guys! > So after messing with the carb off the bike I am fairly certin that the starter jet, pilot jet and main air jet had some if not complete blockage! I beleive I cleaned them all out as I dit everything else. Prior to reassemble everything was clean and appeared to allow air and carb cleaner thru! > > After I got the carb back on it took a little time to get it to start as I had to get fuel back in the carb but it was promising as it started with out the choke/enricher just like it use to back when I first did the dynojet kit. > Now for the bad. I think it is still running lean? I still have the surging around 2500 rpm's? Still shoots up to 3500 or so and fluctuates some? I didn't get to troubleshoot much as it was getting cold & dark. I did mess with the air adjust, but still surged? In is richer? > Also messing with the choke/enricher while the bike was running, I was only able to find a sweet spot where it would add 150-200 rpm's, it too much it would die and before the sweet spot no change? > > Also maybe the lean is a fuel supply issue??? Could my petcock not be flowing enough? I didn't mess with the float level but did clean it out and seemed fine? > > I'll check for air leaks tommorrow > > Thanks, Seth > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > > > The only part in the carb that absolutely has to be clean is the orifice of the pilot jet. The only way you can be sure that it is clean is to remove this jet and look through it and if you can t see through the orifice then it is plugged. It is such a small opening that a piece of lint could be stuck there and restricting the flow of fuel or a piece of dirt or rust could be stopping the fuel flow completely. I believe most air screw settings are less than one turn from closed. I have seen them at around 3/4 of a turn and have heard of some that were completely closed from the factory. I believe the Dynojet recommendations are usually pretty rich for most situations. That is a safe setting since adjusting your carb too lean can cause all sorts of bad things to happen. I d suspect that your air screw should be set around 1 1/2 to 2 turns out and still have good performance. Every bike and every situation is different so YMMV. > > > > Fred > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > > > > > From: navyboy652002 > > Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 7:46 PM > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Hard Starting/Carb Prob? > > > > > > Hey all thanks for you replies and suggestions, to keep from multiple replys I'll reply to you each by name! > > > > Fred, > > I justed pulled the carb out to see if there was anything pluged as you suggested. I sprayed into every thing and the carb was already very clean! I am not sure but the pilot jet may hav been pluged as I sprayed into it wile in the carb and didn't seem like it was going anywhere but abter I took it out I sprayed the pilot jet out and in to its hole and the carb cleaner went thru, Just need to test it with the jet back in. As for the plug I was running a Iridium DPR8EIX-9. As for the air setting I was running it at about 2.5-2.75 turns which I thought was right around stock? > > > > Jeff Saline, > > I did the valves roughly about the same time I did the dynojet kit, so about 2-3K ago. Do you think it is worth another check so soon??? > > > > Mike Huber, > > I have not really looked into spark, I know I am getting some. How would one check to see if I am getting enough? > > > > Bob, > > Don't think I am getting a high speed miss? Last time I rode it (nov-oct) once I got it running it seem to run fine thru all normal rpm's. > > > > Thanks again all for your help and suggestions.My aim is to get the carb back togeather and on tommorrow after work and see if it is any better? > > Seth > > > > > > > --- In mailto:DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > > > > > Sounds like you may have a plugged or partially plugged pilot jet. The pilot jet and the air screw are the parts of your carburetor that adjust and feed fuel for starting and idling up to about 1/4 throttle position. The diaphragm is for raising the slide and has nothing really to do with metering fuel. The slide, needle and needle jet adjust fuel for the midrange. (1/4 throttle to 3/4 open) I would never add any additives to your fuel that isn t safe for the o-rings and seals in your carb. You may have created a lot of other problems by doing this. It sounds like you have a lean condition and the hard starting and high idle or surging would indicate this. The heat range of your spark plug is the operating temperature of the electrodes on the plug. If you run a plug that is too cold, it could build up deposits on the electrodes and that would effect the performance of your engine. If the plug is too hot, it will burn the electrodes and could also burn your piston. I d recommend a new NGK DPR8EA-9 or the Iridium DPR8EIX-9. I d start by checking your pilot jet and the air screw setting. > > > > > > Fred > > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Charlie Y]

Theres a fuel valve somewhere in the carb that closes when you close the throttle. If it 's stuck you get backfires from the excess gasoline in the mixture ( and maybe an extra-lean condition the rest of time?) Use a bunch of Seafoam brand (no substitute?) fuel system additive. oh maybe 4-to 6 ounces in a tank of gas. It has to be running , of course, for that to work Run that through it and it should help. It'll clean crap out of your carburetor that's too small to see.

----- Original Message ----- From: "navyboy652002" and now I am getting a pop or 2(backfire) on decel

[scotthopk]

Looking for either a new decal for the left radiator shroud or the entire shroud in good condition with decal intact. Anyone have any suggestions on where to get the decal? All of the sources I have tried tell me the decal is discontinued by Kawasaki. Thanks.