cold weather starting

DSN_KLR650
ron criswell
Posts: 1118
Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2000 5:09 pm

what's the best approach for add'l hp on a klr650 without rejett

Post by ron criswell » Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:39 pm

Horsepower to me isn't everything. I like a torquey engine that has power all across the board. Some think the Versy engine would be perfect for the KLR...but I am not so sure as I have both.  The Versy has a shorter stroke than the KLR. Remember all you old guys out there the small block Chevy engines were great beating the longer stroke Fords on the drag strip in the fifties, Short stroke equal wind up quick, long stroke equal stump pulling power in the lower rpm but run out of boogy in the higher rpm's. Big Hoggly has sold a lot of motorcycles with this approach. Stop light to stoplight racing success but not for the racetrack...sorta. If you watch pro stock drag racing, notice the difference between how quick the Suzuki derived bikes wind up as opposed to the long stroke Hoggly's. They both do pretty well and the rules help v twin Hogglies. Maybe I've had too much vino but for our dirt road uses, if they put a Versy type engine in our KLR's I think it needs a longer stroke if you like stump pulling power and lower rpm's. The Versy engine is a couple of inches shorter than a KLR and redlines at 10.5 but doesn't seem to get going until you wind it up. A trials bike motor it's not. Probably the wine tonight. Criswell Sent from my iPad
On Jan 18, 2011, at 12:23 PM, Jeff Khoury wrote:
  The F650GS (singles) are higher-compression and fuel-injected.  There's your HP right there. Multi-Cylinder bikes can get even more, with the average 600cc inline four commuter bike putting out 80-100 hp. -Jeff Khoury [b]From: [/b]"Jim Douglas" [b]To: [/b]"DSN _KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent: [/b]Tuesday, January 18, 2011 8:45:54 AM [b]Subject: [/b]Re: [DSN_KLR650] What's the best approach for add'l HP on a KLR650 without rejetting?   As I am a total engine retard (I know not PC), why do some 650CC engines put out so much more HP that the little 32HP of the KLR?  For example an older BMW 650FS has like 48-50HP?  I know it's probably a stupid questions, but................... On 1/18/2011 10:30 AM, Jeff Khoury wrote:
  If you change any of those things you will need to re-jet, or your mixture will be too lean.  This will lead to popping ("backfiring") on deceleration, increased temperature and possibly valve overheating.  You may also LOSE performance and horsepower. Every time you change ANYTHING that affects the restriction of either the intake or exhaust, you need to re-jet to make sure you are getting the proper stochiometric mixture.  I use a "Color Tune" kit. -Jeff Khoury [b]From: [/b]"notanymoore" RJTaylor@...> [b]To: [/b]"DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent: [/b]Monday, January 17, 2011 8:37:28 PM [b]Subject: [/b][DSN_KLR650] What's the best approach for add'l HP on a KLR650 without rejetting?   What's the best approach for add'l HP on a KLR650 without rejetting? K&N airfilter? Muffler replacement? If so, what kind? I live in the midwest so airflow affecting carburator at altitude is not a big concern.

S Mumford
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2005 2:58 am

what's the best approach for add'l hp on a klr650 without rejett

Post by S Mumford » Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:40 pm

From the second link: "Horse Power @ RPM:42@0" That's one powerful machine, to make 42HP at zero RPM. From the FAQ: "[b]How much power does this thing put out?[/b] Depending on the source, values up to 48 hp have been quoted.  However, this is crank horsepower measured on an engine dyno, and doesn't account for losses in the transmission or final drive.  At the rear wheel, power is around 38 hp.  Devon Jarvis supplied a dyno chart for his bike, that shows a peak of 36 hp (DynoJet dyno run, hot, humid day).  His bike was fully stock, except the pilot screw was backed out to 1.25 turns.  Another extensive comparison of KLR mods can be found at  Patman Racing.  If you're looking for a lot more power, you are probably better off with a different bike.  The KLR does not lend itself well to hop-ups, and many owners have spent much time and aggravation chasing what amounted to a couple of extra hp and crappy gas mileage.  You're better off spending the money on suspension upgrades; that way, you'll be able to maintain speed, rather than have to slow down and speed up all of the time..." Thanks CA Stu
--- On [b]Wed, 1/19/11, RobertWichert [i][/i][/b] wrote: From: RobertWichert Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: What's the best approach for add'l HP on a KLR650 without rejetting? To: "SM" Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, January 19, 2011, 10:15 AM http://www.mbike.com/kawasaki/klr650/2006 http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/kawasaki/2006-kawasaki-klr650-ar1955.html Both say 42 HP at the crank, of course. Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ======================================================== On 1/18/2011 7:56 PM, SM wrote:   --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > The BMW specifications say 42 hp and the KLR specifications say 44 hp, > so not much different. > > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > What? Where do the KLR specs say 44 hp? > > ======================================================== > > > On 1/18/2011 8:45 AM, Jim Douglas wrote: > > > > As I am a total engine retard (I know not PC), why do some 650CC > > engines put out so much more HP > > that the little 32HP of the KLR? For example an older BMW 650FS has > > like 48-50HP? > > > > I know it's probably a stupid questions, but................... Compression, ignition timing, cam profile and timing, freer flowing head.... The KLR motor is tuned for low cost, low stress, and durability. It's a tractor, not a testastretta. There is no free lunch. Forget about max HP, to make the KLR a more enjoyable bike to ride, fix the air screw and do the 22 cent mod, and don't monkey with the jetting. No loss in reliability, no loss in mpg, and a user-friendly torque curve await. I also prefer a 14 tooth front sprocket for more zip, but that's just me. Thanks CA Stu A13

ron criswell
Posts: 1118
Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2000 5:09 pm

what's the best approach for add'l hp on a klr650 without rejett

Post by ron criswell » Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:41 pm

Safe and sound in New Orleans??? Impossible. Criswell Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 19, 2011, at 11:46 AM, "Fred Hink" wrote:
  John is safe and sound working in New Orleans.  You might try the airport there.   Anyone know why my computer or Yahoo is putting out these weird symbols when I type quotes or parenthesis?  (Like this)   Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] s2mumford@... [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, January 19, 2011 10:08 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: What's the best approach for add'l HP on a KLR650 without rejetting?     Still got my $50.... *Offer not valid on 2008 and later models. :-) Stu PS Where is John Lyon these days? --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "guymanbro" wrote: > > Still up for grabs as far as I know... > > Is it true, Stu? > > da Vermonster > > --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > > > Did anyone ever win Ben Stu s Money ? (search the archives) > > > > Fred > > [url=http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com]www.arrowheadmotorsports.com[/url] > > > >

Fred Hink
Posts: 2434
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2000 10:08 am

what's the best approach for add'l hp on a klr650 without rejett

Post by Fred Hink » Wed Jan 19, 2011 1:44 pm

Well at least there are no hurricanes, floods and tornadoes he has to deal with right now. These last messages were caught in the Yahoo Spam filter.  Are you guys all using Smart ? phones or why would they suddenly be getting stopped by this filter?   Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] roncriswell@... [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, January 19, 2011 12:08 PM [b]To:[/b] moabmc@... [b]Cc:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com ; s2mumford@... [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: What's the best approach for add'l HP on a KLR650 without rejetting?     Safe and sound in New Orleans??? Impossible.   Criswell Sent from my iPhone On Jan 19, 2011, at 11:46 AM, "Fred Hink" wrote:
  John is safe and sound working in New Orleans.  You might try the airport there.   Anyone know why my computer or Yahoo is putting out these weird symbols when I type quotes or parenthesis?  (Like this)   Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com   [b]From:[/b] s2mumford@... [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, January 19, 2011 10:08 AM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: What's the best approach for add'l HP on a KLR650 without rejetting?    

Still got my $50.... *Offer not valid on 2008 and later models. :-) Stu PS Where is John Lyon these days? --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "guymanbro" wrote: > > Still up for grabs as far as I know... > > Is it true, Stu? > > da Vermonster > > --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > > > Did anyone ever win Ben Stu s Money ? (search the archives) > > > > Fred > > [url=http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com]www.arrowheadmotorsports.com[/url] > > > >


Jeff Khoury
Posts: 684
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am

what's the best approach for add'l hp on a klr650 without rejett

Post by Jeff Khoury » Wed Jan 19, 2011 2:19 pm

I noticed a little bit of an odd behaviour the other day.  I noticed that my messages weren't "hitting" the list when I was replying to messages, but that the individuals themselves were getting the replies as I had a couple of "replies to the replies". So, as an experiment I replied to the message and instead of leaving the list in the cc: field, I moved it into the to: field.  Bingo! the message went right through. So, I conjecture that having the list in the cc: field upped the spam score of the message just enough so that it was being held.  The spam score is a sum of various characteristics (assuming that they're using industry-standard filtering software) with each rule given a "weight".  These rules can be tuned to your particular needs, and they may be applying a high "weight" to the rule that checks for cc:s. Disclaimer:  I manage a high-volume email system for a living, but I have no direct knowledge of how Yahoo! does it, since in computing "There's always more than one way to do that.(tm)" -Jeff Khoury

Jeff Khoury
Posts: 684
Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am

cold weather starting

Post by Jeff Khoury » Wed Jan 19, 2011 2:53 pm

#ygrps-yiv-1271291255 p {margin:0;}I've heard anecdotal evidence both ways.  I've heard of people that run nothing but wal-mart oil changed every 5,000 miles and those who run uber-synth changed every 1,000.  They'll both tell you they've had very few problems, if any. Part of my problem is that I paid attention a little too closely in science class, and I see nearly everything in the view of "The Scientific Method" - much to the chagrin of my wife, my pastor and various other people who like to try to convince me of things.  What this practically means is that I'm skeptical of any claim unless it is backed up with hard, repeatable data, and that usually means numbers.  As Heinlein puts it: "If it cannot be expressed in figures it is not science, it is opinion." I'm also of the opinion that while our beloved "Dirt Ninja" may have a couple of design flaws, the engineers that designed her probably knew what they were doing when they spec'd a 40-weight oil.  There's a lot of math, physics and material engineering that goes into engine design and you can bet your dollars against donuts that there was a very good reason behind the selection of that 40-weight oil.  I am loathe to go against them without a very sound reason (with data), especially in the realm of the internal workings of an engine that they designed and I just maintain and use. Now with that having been said, I've been wrong before.  We all have.  I'm willing to adjust my view based upon new data should it come along.  This is another Scientific Method principle that I old dearly as well.  My opinion is based upon the best data I have available to me right now.  I'm not emotionally tied to my opinion, and I actually hope to always keep an open mind to new discoveries. -Jeff Khoury [b]From: [/b]"kconcour1" [b]To: [/b]"DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent: [/b]Wednesday, January 19, 2011 11:09:48 AM [b]Subject: [/b][DSN_KLR650] Re: Cold Weather starting   All the math sounds very logical and well researched. Unfortunately logic is a way to go wrong with confidence. Whether that is the case here I couldn't say. While I only have anecdotal evidence in 4 bikes 2x ~175k miles in one motor on a Concours a 2001 and 1994) and 45k miles in a 1999 KLR bought used with 12k and a bought new 2008 KLR with 46k miles currently on the clock. All of the above motorcycles are still on the road (I no longer own any but the 2008 except the 1994 Concours with 275k miles which I killed in a tank slapper on I-95 still went 750 miles to get me home but not worth fixing). None of them exhibit any unusual signs of wear. All I used in them after the first change in was synthetic oil 20-50 every 6k miles until all I could get was 15-50(currently run NAPA brand synthetic 15-50). As soon as I put 5-50 (all I could find when I needed it) in the 2008 KLR this summer it went from using 1 quart per 3k miles to 1 quart in 500 miles (prompting a change @ 4k). I did kill the original engine in the 1994 Concours. It dumped all the water out on I-270 going around DC but that is another story on temp sensor placement and 20 degree temps. Well that and having to get to work 180 miles down the road the next morning which it did. Just replaced the engine with a used one never even opened the old one probably could have saved it but wasn't worth the time. In short all my experience with heavier oils runs contrary to what you are saying. Whether this is from the way I ride or some other factor I couldn't say. But all cranked/started right up down to 6 degree temps. It "may" make a difference if the battery is already going down hill but that is the only way it will really make a difference IMO. Mike Nasca Just so you know haven't owned a car since 1984. So the only way I was getting to work was on the bike or bicycle. Even if there was 6 inches of snow on the ground. Can be done but better have crash bars on the Concours because you will be falling over, every now and again.
--- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > I used to think so as well, then I did some in-depth research into the science-y stuff about lubrication in engines. > > I've posted the link many times, so I'll spare you all another round. But essentially it boils down to this: > > Most engines are designed to run with an oil viscosity of around 10-15cS. At cold temps (engine-wise, meaning under 150F), 20W oil is way thicker than that, it won't pump very well and it fails to properly lubricate your engine. Your oil pressure is too high, flow is too low and this leads to the common consensus amongst engineers that 90% of engine wear is happening at startup. > > Now, when they're at normal operating temperature, a 40 and a 50 do not vary between them that much. A 40 (second number) will be 12.5-16.2cS and a 50 will be 16.3-21.8cS. That's not that big of a difference, however the 50 is outside the normal design range of your engine. > > However, at startup the difference is dramatic: Your 20W-50 at 75F will measure something about 200, and 5W-40 will measure about 70. 70 is still way too thick, but it's a heck of a lot closer to 10 than 200 is. When the temp is 40F, 20W-50 is too thick to even measure, yet a good synth 5w-40 still flows pretty well. > > So, in summation: 20W-50 is too thick even at operating temp, but not too terribly. At startup, it is atrocious. On a cold morning it is beyond atrocious. > > I have an '09 and I run Rotella T6 5W-40. It consumes very little oil unless I'm flogging it at 80MPH+ for long periods. I've also noticed that the consumption may not be coming from seepage past the rings as I initially thought, but rather being sucked up through the pcv tube into the airbox. After a particularly fast stretch of I-5, I stopped for gas and noticed a big pool of oil on the ground. I nearly had a heart attack until I noticed it was coming from the airbox drain. A side effect of the PCV valve mod is that any oil that gets sucked into the airbox cannot run back down into the crankcase when the engine slows down, but then just accumulates until it runs out the airbox drain. > > > > -Jeff Khoury

RobertWichert
Posts: 697
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:32 am

what's the best approach for add'l hp on a klr650 without rejett

Post by RobertWichert » Wed Jan 19, 2011 4:34 pm

FAQ Notwithstanding, I have seen 42 HP several times, accurate or not. This is crank horsepower, of course. 36 or 38 RW horsepower seems reasonable for 42 crank HP. The service manual says 35.3 kW, which is 47.3 HP. I'm not sure how they got that, but ALL manufacturers inflate their HP numbers. Probably run it in a pressure chamber or something. If this was a three cylinder two-stroke http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/kawasaki/kawasaki_h2.htm , I would expect almost twice that, but a four cycle single is at a huge disadvantage. Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ========================================================
On 1/19/2011 10:22 AM, S Mumford wrote: From the second link: "Horse Power @ RPM:42@0" That's one powerful machine, to make 42HP at zero RPM. From the FAQ: "[b]How much power does this thing put out?[/b] Depending on the source, values up to 48 hp have been quoted. However, this is crank horsepower measured on an engine dyno, and doesn't account for losses in the transmission or final drive. At the rear wheel, power is around 38 hp. Devon Jarvis supplied a dyno chart for his bike, that shows a peak of 36 hp (DynoJet dyno run, hot, humid day). His bike was fully stock, except the pilot screw was backed out to 1.25 turns. Another extensive comparison of KLR mods can be found at Patman Racing. If you're looking for a lot more power, you are probably better off with a different bike. The KLR does not lend itself well to hop-ups, and many owners have spent much time and aggravation chasing what amounted to a couple of extra hp and crappy gas mileage. You're better off spending the money on suspension upgrades; that way, you'll be able to maintain speed, rather than have to slow down and speed up all of the time..." Thanks CA Stu --- On [b]Wed, 1/19/11, RobertWichert [i]robert@...[/i][/b] wrote: From: RobertWichert robert@... Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: What's the best approach for add'l HP on a KLR650 without rejetting? To: "SM" s2mumford@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, January 19, 2011, 10:15 AM http://www.mbike.com/kawasaki/klr650/2006 http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/kawasaki/2006-kawasaki-klr650-ar1955.html Both say 42 HP at the crank, of course. Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ======================================================== On 1/18/2011 7:56 PM, SM wrote: --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > The BMW specifications say 42 hp and the KLR specifications say 44 hp, > so not much different. > > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > What? Where do the KLR specs say 44 hp? > > ======================================================== > > > On 1/18/2011 8:45 AM, Jim Douglas wrote: > > > > As I am a total engine retard (I know not PC), why do some 650CC > > engines put out so much more HP > > that the little 32HP of the KLR? For example an older BMW 650FS has > > like 48-50HP? > > > > I know it's probably a stupid questions, but................... Compression, ignition timing, cam profile and timing, freer flowing head.... The KLR motor is tuned for low cost, low stress, and durability. It's a tractor, not a testastretta. There is no free lunch. Forget about max HP, to make the KLR a more enjoyable bike to ride, fix the air screw and do the 22 cent mod, and don't monkey with the jetting. No loss in reliability, no loss in mpg, and a user-friendly torque curve await. I also prefer a 14 tooth front sprocket for more zip, but that's just me. Thanks CA Stu A13

Stuart Mumford
Posts: 1178
Joined: Tue Apr 11, 2000 6:45 pm

what's the best approach for add'l hp on a klr650 without rejett

Post by Stuart Mumford » Wed Jan 19, 2011 4:39 pm

You've seen it in literature, but in the real world, a KLR with stock engine internals on a legitimate dyno has yet to break 40 HP at the rear wheel, no matter the carb and exhaust mods done to it. I still have my $50... Talk is cheap, dyno runs are about $20 a piece... :-)
On 1/19/2011 2:34 PM, RobertWichert wrote: FAQ Notwithstanding, I have seen 42 HP several times, accurate or not. This is crank horsepower, of course. 36 or 38 RW horsepower seems reasonable for 42 crank HP. The service manual says 35.3 kW, which is 47.3 HP. I'm not sure how they got that, but ALL manufacturers inflate their HP numbers. Probably run it in a pressure chamber or something. If this was a three cylinder two-stroke http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/kawasaki/kawasaki_h2.htm , I would expect almost twice that, but a four cycle single is at a huge disadvantage. Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068

RobertWichert
Posts: 697
Joined: Sun Jan 10, 2010 11:32 am

what's the best approach for add'l hp on a klr650 without rejett

Post by RobertWichert » Wed Jan 19, 2011 5:44 pm

What? No Nitrous? Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ========================================================
On 1/19/2011 2:35 PM, Stuart Mumford wrote: You've seen it in literature, but in the real world, a KLR with stock engine internals on a legitimate dyno has yet to break 40 HP at the rear wheel, no matter the carb and exhaust mods done to it. I still have my $50... Talk is cheap, dyno runs are about $20 a piece... :-) On 1/19/2011 2:34 PM, RobertWichert wrote: FAQ Notwithstanding, I have seen 42 HP several times, accurate or not. This is crank horsepower, of course. 36 or 38 RW horsepower seems reasonable for 42 crank HP. The service manual says 35.3 kW, which is 47.3 HP. I'm not sure how they got that, but ALL manufacturers inflate their HP numbers. Probably run it in a pressure chamber or something. If this was a three cylinder two-stroke http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/kawasaki/kawasaki_h2.htm , I would expect almost twice that, but a four cycle single is at a huge disadvantage. Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068

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