(nonklr) but new ride topic. long,

[Larry]

The fiche at RonAyers.com shows 1166 and $7.50 each. Check it out. LB.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > Well, it finally happened. I was checking out my KLR for its last spring ride (more on that another day) and discovered a pool of ATF on the front wheel, and tracked it up to the fork seal on that side. > > I want to replace my fork seals with new OEM seals, not aftermarket ones. Bikebandit seems to have the seals for roughly the same price as the aftermarket seals (after I apply my AMA discount), so... anyhow. Which one of these part numbers off the parts list is the right one? > > 92049 92049-1180 SEAL-OIL,FRONT FORK > 92093 92093-1166 SEAL,FRONT FORK > > I'm guessing it's the *second* one... but would like to verify before clicking the "Confirm order" button. > > Thanks, > - Eric >

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 18 Mar 2009 21:05:14 -0000 "E.L. Green" writes:

> Well, it finally happened. I was checking out my KLR for its last > spring ride (more on that another day) and discovered a pool of ATF > on the front wheel, and tracked it up to the fork seal on that side. > > > I want to replace my fork seals with new OEM seals, not aftermarket > ones. Bikebandit seems to have the seals for roughly the same price > as the aftermarket seals (after I apply my AMA discount), so... > anyhow. Which one of these part numbers off the parts list is the > right one? > > 92049 92049-1180 SEAL-OIL,FRONT FORK > 92093 92093-1166 SEAL,FRONT FORK > > I'm guessing it's the *second* one... but would like to verify > before clicking the "Confirm order" button. > > Thanks, > - Eric

<><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Eric, I'm not your parts guy and haven't bought the seals yet so take this for what's that makes it worth... I think it's the top number. The 92049-1180, Seal, Oil, Front Fork. That's the one next to the oil in the fork. The other seal I think is the dust seal on top of the oil seal. If I was ordering the seals today I'd order two (2), 92049-1180. Don't forget to consider ordering the seals for the drain screws. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo search features. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTEuJA2vpgS2oSh87wgqtchGhNCVy1gV8jrhuz9A0qMItaySvHc6xK/

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Larry" wrote:

> > The fiche at RonAyers.com shows 1166 and $7.50 each. Check it out. > LB.

My problem is that I can't tell which is the seal and which is just a wiper based on the fuzzy picture on the fiche. %!@#$ print on these things seems to get fuzzier the older I get, or maybe I just need new glasses! Now I'm thinking it's the 92049-1180 part and the 1166 is just a wiper, but maybe I'm looking at the picture wrong. Has anybody here ever actually ordered this dadburn thing?! Oh yeah, don't tell me "go to your local Kawasaki dealer", my local Kawasaki dealer doesn't have anybody who knows diddly about KLR fork seals and they'll just sell me all four of these widgets and count it as profit.

> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > ly my AMA discount), so... anyhow. Which one of these part numbers off the parts list is > > > > 92049 92049-1180 SEAL-OIL,FRONT FORK > > 92093 92093-1166 SEAL,FRONT FORK > > > > I'm guessing it's the *second* one... but would like to verify before clicking the "Confirm order" button. > > > > Thanks, > > - Eric > > >

[dooden]

Zoomed in on Ronayers and looks like: 92049 92049-1180 SEAL-OIL,FRONT FORK is the seal (lower) 92093 92093-1166 SEAL,FRONT FORK is the wiper (upper) I put in a Parts Unlimited seal and have had to troubles sofar from it, been in there about 2 years Good Luck, might add if you use air pressure to pop out the old seal, wrap a few times with a rag, cause when it pops out it going to make a mess and spray like a angry skunk up at ya.... Also when I did mine for some reason the tube bushing also came out with the seal and pretty sure the manual STATES something about making sure the is not facing the front of back of tube, make sure its faces the wheel out side of bike. So the seam don't leave a wear spot on the tube. Good Luck with your Happy Seal.. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Larry" wrote: > > > > The fiche at RonAyers.com shows 1166 and $7.50 each. Check it out. > > LB. > > My problem is that I can't tell which is the seal and which is just a wiper based on the fuzzy picture on the fiche. %!@#$ print on these things seems to get fuzzier the older I get, or maybe I just need new glasses! Now I'm thinking it's the 92049-1180 part and the 1166 is just a wiper, but maybe I'm looking at the picture wrong. Has anybody here ever actually ordered this dadburn thing?! > > Oh yeah, don't tell me "go to your local Kawasaki dealer", my local Kawasaki dealer doesn't have anybody who knows diddly about KLR fork seals and they'll just sell me all four of these widgets and count it as profit. > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > ly my AMA discount), so... anyhow. Which one of these part numbers off the parts list is > > > > > > 92049 92049-1180 SEAL-OIL,FRONT FORK > > > 92093 92093-1166 SEAL,FRONT FORK > > > > > > I'm guessing it's the *second* one... but would like to verify before clicking the "Confirm order" button. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > - Eric > > > > > >

[bad_dancer2008]

If you are using the OEM fork boots then do yourself a favor and get some better protection to keep out the dirt and prolong the life of your seals. After my second set of seals I put on a set of SealSavers and have not had any problems with leaky seals. Check them out, they work: http://www.sealsavers.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1 --Jim

> Well, it finally happened. I was checking out my KLR for its last spring ride (more on that another day) and discovered a pool of ATF on the front wheel, and tracked it up to the fork seal on that side. > Thanks, > - Eric >

[W.V. Doran]

Check this site for "E-Z Fork Seal Replacement" I've used this method on 3 sets of KLR forks ... it was E-Z http://www.geocitie s.com/TheTropics /Breakers/ 8462/KLR650/ ForkSeal- RR.html WVDoran Scottsdale, AZ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bryan Burke]

From Kalispell west, Hwy 2 is pretty dull. That country is rolling forested hills, not scenic mountains. Across the Cascades it's not bad, but nothing to compare to Hwy. 20 across the North Cascades. In fact, if you need a semi-direct route across Washington, 20 beats 2 the whole way. The whole northwest region (Oregon, Washington, Idaho, and Montana) is criss-crossed with remote back roads and forest service roads that are perfect for KLRs, and backcountry highways through small towns that have never seen a franchise restaurant or motel. If you have the time, here's a route that will take you through an incredible selection of spectacular places, past 14,000 foot volcanoes and the deepest canyon in the USA. Nothing like the U.P.! And if you are starting in June, most of these roads will be clear, then you can take the high roads (N. Cascades and Glacier N.P) back in July when they have been cleared. At Kalispell, I would cut south on 93 and cross Idaho through Stanley, cutting back north to McCall, cross Hell's Canyon at Copperfield, wend NW on back roads to cross the Columbia at White Salmon, head north on the Forest Roads around Mt. Adams (or Mt. St. Helens, a bit to the west) and Mt. Rainier, cut straight west to the coast Highway 101, and take that north around the Olympic Penninsula. You'd be crazy to ride all that way and not see the Olympic coastline. Then take the ferry from Port Townsend to Keystone. That puts you back on Highway 20, aimed for home. Take 20 across the Cascades, and then, tired, broke, and homesick, ride Highway 2 back home. At any point along the way (except when the highway is the only road) you can easily find side loops if you want to get further off the beaten track. The roads just north of the US-Canada border go through some lovely places too, but I don't know that area too well. Yet. Definitely leave Hwy 2 in Browning or Kalispell, depending on your direction, and take the "Going to the Sun Road" across Glacier National Park. Like the North Cascades Highway mentioned below by John, it will not be open until mid-summer but even with the traffic, it is spectacular. Sorry I can't help with lodging ideas. I almost always camp rough on the Forest Service lands. The roadhouses all look the same after a while, although my best road meal in the last few summers was at a log steak house in the Sawtooths of Idaho, on the northern outskirts of Stanley. Outdoor dining next to a stream, great view, pretty waitress, good beer, and a perfect steak. Look for the place next to the private bridge across the stream. It was on the east (streamside) of the road. From mid-June until mid-September, the Northwest has some of the best weather you could possibly hope for anywhere, which makes up for how much it sucks the rest of the year. Happy trails! Bryan Burke

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John Biccum" wrote: > > US 2 across WA State is not particularly scenic, nor is it a stellar > motorcycle road. The engineers have worked hard to take all the fun out of the road. When you enter WA on US2 at Newport, pick up WA20. WA20 is one of the most scenic and curvy roads in North America and the road usually emerges around the 4th of July from its winter snow closure in near perfect condition. Rather that the freeze-thaw cycles that grow potholes WA20 slumbers through the winter under a protective blanket of deep, deep snow. > > Hey ALL > > A new (non bike) Topic to start planning for a RIDE. (If I can't ride I want to dream and PLAN for a ride. > > I hope to (ROUGHLY) take highway 2 from I-75, UP MI. to Washington > (yearly+-) this summer. cutting across the top of the U.S.A.. > > Anyone know of any interesting sights, Good eats, cheap but CLEAN motels, > campgrounds, ETC.. >

[Pass Sport]

Greetings, Just a short note to let you know that you do not need an air compressor to remove your seals using the following method: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Fork_Seals.pdf I was able to use a hand pump. The seal that was leaking came out fairly easily, but the other took some (a lot of) effort. Now to see if I can install the new seals... Thanks, Steve A-14

[dooden]

I have also managed to get one out by removing the retainer and just pushing down on bars quick. Other one I did required air pressure. Any air pump that can hit say 100 psi or up should work, not alot of volume in the tubes. Side note... remember to wrap the seal area with an old towel snugly before adding air. 1 1/4" PVC 4-way connector works great for getting the new seal in also. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Pass Sport wrote: > > Greetings, > Just a short note to let you know that you do not need an air compressor to remove your seals using the following method: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Fork_Seals.pdf I was able to use a hand pump. The seal that was leaking came out fairly easily, but the other took some (a lot of) effort. Now to see if I can install the new seals... > Thanks, > Steve > A-14 >