dr200se for sale

[nhjim10]

My poor '06 KLR has been in mothballs since the spring of '09. Some of you may remember that a week after coming home from a 2500 mile ride, my engine lost oil and seized on the way to work. I trucked the bike to the shop and found not more than a half cup of oil left in it! That was on a Mon or Tues. morning, with less than 20 miles since Friday, when I gassed up and checked the oil. I had pretty much written off the engine, and didn't bother with a teardown, I just looked for a used engine for a reasonable price (and found none). I finally got sick of the bike sitting, so Sunday I lowered it into my basement and pulled the engine. I brought it to work today and pulled the top end off, and was very shocked. I expected the cams and head to be junk, but they are actually in very good shape. The bearing journals are excellent, and the head shows no signs of wear or heat damage. I pulled the head off and found what I expected, the piston was very carboned up, and so was the combustion chamber. Its obvious its been burning a LOT of oil (on my trip I would have to add a half qt. at every gas stop). The piston skirts are very scored, as well as the cylinder. The rod bearings feel very smooth and tight. The crank and what I can see of the crankcase looks clean, not sludged up as I would have expected an oil-starved engine to look. The bike has around 19k on it. My two options are to leave the bottom end alone and hope/assume its good, and buy a 685 kit; OR split the cases and make 100% sure all is fine. The engine already had the Doo done at only the 1k mile mark, and has had Rotella synthetic since 1k miles. Suggestions as to how durable the bottom end of these engines are, and whether I should dig further or put it back together with a new cylinder will be appreciated. By the way, I'm a mechanic by trade, but aren't all that used to bike engines. The mechanical aspect is no problem, but I would hate to spend the money on extra gaskets, and split the case, for nothing. Jim

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

At 12:09 AM +0000 11/3/10, nhjim10 wrote:...

>The bike has around 19k on it. My two options are to leave the >bottom end alone and hope/assume its good, and buy a 685 kit; OR >split the cases and make 100% sure all is fine. The engine already >had the Doo done at only the 1k mile mark, and has had Rotella >synthetic since 1k miles. > >Suggestions as to how durable the bottom end of these engines are, >and whether I should dig further or put it back together with a new >cylinder will be appreciated.

What does the 685 kit cost, and what parts are included? I'm a tightwad, so I would either: a. Bore it out and go with the first oversize piston from ronayers.com for $96 plus ring set (~$50), head gasket ($~30), base gasket ($6) and whatever you pay for machine work. or b. Get a new cylinder liner from ronayers (~$97) and a standard piston & ring set & gaskets (same prices as above), and whatever the shop charges to press in the new liner. or c. Buy a brand new complete cylinder, head & base gaskets, piston and standard ring set from me (gotta verify my part numbers first) for $425 shipped (25% off ronayers low prices) If the bottom end is tight and the cam bearing surfaces aren't shot, you can expect *at least* another 40K miles after the cyl/piston job. Mark

[RobertWichert]

I have experience on automotive engines, mostly, but I would NOT expect the bottom of the connecting rod and the crank bearings to be OK.  My expectation would be that everything would be in need of refurbishment.  I could not and would not expect anything to be able to go without oil for more than a few minutes.  Seriously.  I have rebuilt automotive engines and had parts "look fine" and make NASTY noises when the rebuild was finished.  The rebuild turned out to be basically a waste of time and money.  I learned the hard way that unless it mics within tolerance and there are no scores, it's in need of refurbishment. If it was my bike, I would go all the way down to the bare cases and start from there.  Be sure to mic everything, don't believe your eyes.  ANY scoring means it's junk. Roller bearings are assumed to be bad if they are run without oil.  Anything else is a miracle, in my opinion. What caused the oil burning anyway?  Loose piston?  The metal has to go somewhere. I still cannot believe Kawasaki won't sell an engine.  I mean, it appears to be the case that they won't, but WTF?  There may also be "rebuilt" engines out there, but my experience with engine rebuilders for cars and boats is that they are liars and lazy cheats and thieves. No offense meant to anyone on the list.  I'm sure there are good ones out there, but I haven't found one yet. Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ========================================================

On 11/2/2010 5:09 PM, nhjim10 wrote:   My poor '06 KLR has been in mothballs since the spring of '09. Some of you may remember that a week after coming home from a 2500 mile ride, my engine lost oil and seized on the way to work. I trucked the bike to the shop and found not more than a half cup of oil left in it! That was on a Mon or Tues. morning, with less than 20 miles since Friday, when I gassed up and checked the oil. I had pretty much written off the engine, and didn't bother with a teardown, I just looked for a used engine for a reasonable price (and found none). I finally got sick of the bike sitting, so Sunday I lowered it into my basement and pulled the engine. I brought it to work today and pulled the top end off, and was very shocked. I expected the cams and head to be junk, but they are actually in very good shape. The bearing journals are excellent, and the head shows no signs of wear or heat damage. I pulled the head off and found what I expected, the piston was very carboned up, and so was the combustion chamber. Its obvious its been burning a LOT of oil (on my trip I would have to add a half qt. at every gas stop). The piston skirts are very scored, as well as the cylinder. The rod bearings feel very smooth and tight. The crank and what I can see of the crankcase looks clean, not sludged up as I would have expected an oil-starved engine to look. The bike has around 19k on it. My two options are to leave the bottom end alone and hope/assume its good, and buy a 685 kit; OR split the cases and make 100% sure all is fine. The engine already had the Doo done at only the 1k mile mark, and has had Rotella synthetic since 1k miles. Suggestions as to how durable the bottom end of these engines are, and whether I should dig further or put it back together with a new cylinder will be appreciated. By the way, I'm a mechanic by trade, but aren't all that used to bike engines. The mechanical aspect is no problem, but I would hate to spend the money on extra gaskets, and split the case, for nothing. Jim

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 00:09:17 -0000 "nhjim10" writes: SNIP ... my engine lost oil and seized on the way to work. I trucked

> the bike to the shop and found not more than a half cup of oil left > in it! That was on a Mon or Tues. morning, with less than 20 miles > since Friday, when I gassed up and checked the oil.

SNIP

> I expected the cams and head to be junk, but they are actually in very > good shape. The bearing journals are excellent, and the head shows > no signs of wear or heat damage.

SNIP

> The bike has around 19k on it. My two options are to leave the > bottom end alone and hope/assume its good, and buy a 685 kit; OR > split the cases and make 100% sure all is fine. The engine already > had the Doo done at only the 1k mile mark, and has had Rotella > synthetic since 1k miles. > > Suggestions as to how durable the bottom end of these engines are, > and whether I should dig further or put it back together with a new > cylinder will be appreciated.

SNIP

> Jim

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Jim, Based on what I've gleaned from your post here's what I'd probably consider if I was in your situation. I'd guess the bottom end is ok if the cam journals in the head were good. The cam journals are usually the first to go in an oil starve situation. I'd without hesitation install a 685 kit and give it a go. I put a 685 in my 2003 KLR650 last spring and am very happy with it. Vibration is significantly less than with the stock engine. Power is a bit better but nothing I'd be writing home about. Oil usage is none and that tends to be the consensus from posters on other lists that have 685s properly installed. The pre 2008 KLRs weren't as a rule oil burners. I'm wondering if your switch to synthetic motor oil at 1K was a bit soon as it sounds from your post like the rings were allowing oil to slip by. Maybe the rings hadn't fully seated when you did the oil switch. Synthetic is really slippery so as soon as the engine was on it further break in of the engine might have stopped. Good luck with you engine repair. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Refinance Now 3.4% FIXED $160,000 Mortgage: $547/mo. No Hidden Fees. No SSN Req. Get 4 Quotes! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4cd0d088ae3355ec9m07vuc

[spike55_bmw]

Jim: With the cylinder off, can you quickly rotate the crank by hand by pumping the connecting rod? Probably not the best way to test the crank bearings but you might hear some roughness that way and it would warrant the further disassembly. Opening the cases isn't a big deal but there's several things to pay ateention to and it'll cost you right-side gaskets and a new snap ring for the right-side of the output shaft (in the area where a kick-starter would reside). The cases are 'glued' together and the Kawi RTV seems light-weight but it is easy to clean off of the aluminum. I used YamaBond4 and it is thicker and you need a razor blade to remove overages after it dries. Used sheets of card board with an outline of the case with a hole for each bolt you remove. Use 6-pt sockets to remove / torque bolts to prevent rounding. Removal of the clutch basket nut can be done without a special wrench if you use an impact wrench. You need the special wrench to torque it back on. Keep track of the washers / spacers that go on the internal, upper, and lower counter-balance shafts, etc, etc, etc. Good Luck on what you decide. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "nhjim10" wrote: > > My poor '06 KLR has been in mothballs since the spring of '09. Some of you may remember that a week after coming home from a 2500 mile ride, my engine lost oil and seized on the way to work. I trucked the bike to the shop and found not more than a half cup of oil left in it! That was on a Mon or Tues. morning, with less than 20 miles since Friday, when I gassed up and checked the oil. > > I had pretty much written off the engine, and didn't bother with a teardown, I just looked for a used engine for a reasonable price (and found none). I finally got sick of the bike sitting, so Sunday I lowered it into my basement and pulled the engine. I brought it to work today and pulled the top end off, and was very shocked. I expected the cams and head to be junk, but they are actually in very good shape. The bearing journals are excellent, and the head shows no signs of wear or heat damage. > > I pulled the head off and found what I expected, the piston was very carboned up, and so was the combustion chamber. Its obvious its been burning a LOT of oil (on my trip I would have to add a half qt. at every gas stop). The piston skirts are very scored, as well as the cylinder. The rod bearings feel very smooth and tight. The crank and what I can see of the crankcase looks clean, not sludged up as I would have expected an oil-starved engine to look. > > The bike has around 19k on it. My two options are to leave the bottom end alone and hope/assume its good, and buy a 685 kit; OR split the cases and make 100% sure all is fine. The engine already had the Doo done at only the 1k mile mark, and has had Rotella synthetic since 1k miles. > > Suggestions as to how durable the bottom end of these engines are, and whether I should dig further or put it back together with a new cylinder will be appreciated. > > By the way, I'm a mechanic by trade, but aren't all that used to bike engines. The mechanical aspect is no problem, but I would hate to spend the money on extra gaskets, and split the case, for nothing. > > Jim >

[nhjim10]

After reading several suggestions I think I'll take a slightly cautious approach. Don- I had a little time to check out the lower end a little more today, and yes, the crank turns very easy and smoothly. The lower connecting rod bearing only has side-side movement (sliding), but no other movement; and it moves very smoothly. It is as I would want it to be in a new engine or fresh rebuild. Having been inside many automotive engines, I know the feel of what it should be...and it feels "right". I'm going to pull the left side cover off and visually check the 'doo. Its been upgraded already, but this is a good time to check on it...its been there since the bike was 2 weeks old. That will also allow me to see a bit more of the internals, see if there are any visible chinks or particles floating around, and make sure all looks good. Then I'll pull the right side cover off, check and clean the oil screen, and get another good look at the internals. I'll be able to see some of the bearings and other parts, and see if anything looks heat damaged, or shows signs of wear. If everything looks good, I'll most likely pull the oil drain plug, then flush out the crankcase while the covers are off, then put the covers back on, pour in a couple quarts of oil, work it around, then drain that (just to flush out whatever I decide to use to flush/clean the crankcase). The flushing/cleaning is probably unnecessary, but it would make me feel better. Plus, if I flush into a clean pan, I can check for any particles or bad chunks that might come out. If anything comes out that doesn't correspond to the slight wear on the piston, then I know I need to open it up and look further. If all looks good, I'll reassemble with a 685 kit (not that I need the power, but its a high quality, cost effective way of rebuilding, with the benefit of a slight power increase, and less vibes), clean up the rest of the bike, and hopefully use it as my 2nd/local commuter bike. I was planning to buy a V-Strom 1000 for long distance riding and commuting, but if I revive the KLR, I might go with something like an ST1300, and use the KLR for commuting on our terrible roads, and doing shorter day and weekend trips on New England back roads...which is where I always loved the handling of the KLR. I appreciate all the info. Jim

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 00:09:17 -0000 "nhjim10" writes: > SNIP > > ... my engine lost oil and seized on the way to work. I trucked > > the bike to the shop and found not more than a half cup of oil left > > in it! That was on a Mon or Tues. morning, with less than 20 miles > > since Friday, when I gassed up and checked the oil. > > SNIP > > > I expected the cams and head to be junk, but they are actually in very > > good shape. The bearing journals are excellent, and the head shows > > no signs of wear or heat damage. > > SNIP > > > The bike has around 19k on it. My two options are to leave the > > bottom end alone and hope/assume its good, and buy a 685 kit; OR > > split the cases and make 100% sure all is fine. The engine already > > had the Doo done at only the 1k mile mark, and has had Rotella > > synthetic since 1k miles. > > > > Suggestions as to how durable the bottom end of these engines are, > > and whether I should dig further or put it back together with a new > > cylinder will be appreciated. > > SNIP > > > Jim > <><><><><><> > <><><><><><> > > Jim, > > Based on what I've gleaned from your post here's what I'd probably > consider if I was in your situation. > > I'd guess the bottom end is ok if the cam journals in the head were good. > The cam journals are usually the first to go in an oil starve situation. > > I'd without hesitation install a 685 kit and give it a go. I put a 685 > in my 2003 KLR650 last spring and am very happy with it. Vibration is > significantly less than with the stock engine. Power is a bit better but > nothing I'd be writing home about. Oil usage is none and that tends to > be the consensus from posters on other lists that have 685s properly > installed. > > The pre 2008 KLRs weren't as a rule oil burners. I'm wondering if your > switch to synthetic motor oil at 1K was a bit soon as it sounds from your > post like the rings were allowing oil to slip by. Maybe the rings hadn't > fully seated when you did the oil switch. Synthetic is really slippery > so as soon as the engine was on it further break in of the engine might > have stopped. > > Good luck with you engine repair. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[nhjim10]

The big difference between cars and bikes, is that cars don't use true bearings. The slightest oil loss, and the "bearings" (in reality, bushings), score badly. A ball bearing can handle much more abuse. The piston gets it's oil from crank splash, so as soon as the oil level drops, the piston is first to suffer. The 2nd place would be the cams, and they are the most delicate, due to them not having true bearings- just the cams riding in the aluminum head. The cam lobes and journals are perfect, they look more like a 5k mile engine than nearly 20k miles. No heat discoloration, no scoring. That leads me to believe the oil pump itself didn't starve for oil, there had to be some still moving. The rest of the bottom end is pretty hearty- gears and bearings. After running the bike after the seizure, all I heard for noise was piston slap. The bike ran well and I even rode it up the road and back. All gears shifted smooth, no odd noises, etc. My original fear was that the head and cams had to be junk, which is why I never dug into it before now...the cost of top end work (beyond piston and cylinder) is beyond what a used engine would cost...which is close to what a good used bike would cost (I've seen '06 KLRs like mine as low as $1800 with low miles, in good shape). Jim

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > I have experience on automotive engines, mostly, but I would NOT expect > the bottom of the connecting rod and the crank bearings to be OK. My > expectation would be that everything would be in need of refurbishment. > I could not and would not expect anything to be able to go without oil > for more than a few minutes. Seriously. I have rebuilt automotive > engines and had parts "look fine" and make NASTY noises when the rebuild > was finished. The rebuild turned out to be basically a waste of time > and money. I learned the hard way that unless it mics within tolerance > and there are no scores, it's in need of refurbishment. > > If it was my bike, I would go all the way down to the bare cases and > start from there. Be sure to mic everything, don't believe your eyes. > ANY scoring means it's junk. > > Roller bearings are assumed to be bad if they are run without oil. > Anything else is a miracle, in my opinion. > > What caused the oil burning anyway? Loose piston? The metal has to go > somewhere. > > I still cannot believe Kawasaki won't sell an engine. I mean, it > appears to be the case that they won't, but WTF? There may also be > "rebuilt" engines out there, but my experience with engine rebuilders > for cars and boats is that they are liars and lazy cheats and thieves. > > No offense meant to anyone on the list. I'm sure there are good ones > out there, but I haven't found one yet. > > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > > > > > > > ======================================================== > > > On 11/2/2010 5:09 PM, nhjim10 wrote: > > > > My poor '06 KLR has been in mothballs since the spring of '09. Some of > > you may remember that a week after coming home from a 2500 mile ride, > > my engine lost oil and seized on the way to work. I trucked the bike > > to the shop and found not more than a half cup of oil left in it! That > > was on a Mon or Tues. morning, with less than 20 miles since Friday, > > when I gassed up and checked the oil. > > > > I had pretty much written off the engine, and didn't bother with a > > teardown, I just looked for a used engine for a reasonable price (and > > found none). I finally got sick of the bike sitting, so Sunday I > > lowered it into my basement and pulled the engine. I brought it to > > work today and pulled the top end off, and was very shocked. I > > expected the cams and head to be junk, but they are actually in very > > good shape. The bearing journals are excellent, and the head shows no > > signs of wear or heat damage. > > > > I pulled the head off and found what I expected, the piston was very > > carboned up, and so was the combustion chamber. Its obvious its been > > burning a LOT of oil (on my trip I would have to add a half qt. at > > every gas stop). The piston skirts are very scored, as well as the > > cylinder. The rod bearings feel very smooth and tight. The crank and > > what I can see of the crankcase looks clean, not sludged up as I would > > have expected an oil-starved engine to look. > > > > The bike has around 19k on it. My two options are to leave the bottom > > end alone and hope/assume its good, and buy a 685 kit; OR split the > > cases and make 100% sure all is fine. The engine already had the Doo > > done at only the 1k mile mark, and has had Rotella synthetic since 1k > > miles. > > > > Suggestions as to how durable the bottom end of these engines are, and > > whether I should dig further or put it back together with a new > > cylinder will be appreciated. > > > > By the way, I'm a mechanic by trade, but aren't all that used to bike > > engines. The mechanical aspect is no problem, but I would hate to > > spend the money on extra gaskets, and split the case, for nothing. > > > > Jim > > > > >

[Charlie Y]

But after this you'll be an expert! Why not start your own KLRebuild business? As time goes by more of us will be in your situation.

> > By the way, I'm a mechanic by trade ----- Original Message ----- From: "nhjim10"

[Jud]

I gotta take issue with your characterization of automotive-type plain bearings as mere "bushings". As long as they get an ample supply of pressurized oil, they are capable of sustaining much higher loads than roller bearings, and last many times longer. Consider BMW, who built bikes with roller cranks and ball mains for years. They were considered paragons of durability, with a bottom end that could last as much as 40,000 miles without a rebuild. The plain bearing engines that succeeded them in 1969 with the introduction of the /5 could be expected to last three to ten times as long without renewing the bearings. If there is a roller-crank engine that can approach that, its going to be big, slow, heavy and underpowered for motorcycle use.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "nhjim10" wrote: > > The big difference between cars and bikes, is that cars don't use true bearings. The slightest oil loss, and the "bearings" (in reality, bushings), score badly. A ball bearing can handle much more abuse. > > The piston gets it's oil from crank splash, so as soon as the oil level drops, the piston is first to suffer. The 2nd place would be the cams, and they are the most delicate, due to them not having true bearings- just the cams riding in the aluminum head. The cam lobes and journals are perfect, they look more like a 5k mile engine than nearly 20k miles. No heat discoloration, no scoring. That leads me to believe the oil pump itself didn't starve for oil, there had to be some still moving. > > The rest of the bottom end is pretty hearty- gears and bearings. After running the bike after the seizure, all I heard for noise was piston slap. The bike ran well and I even rode it up the road and back. All gears shifted smooth, no odd noises, etc. > > My original fear was that the head and cams had to be junk, which is why I never dug into it before now...the cost of top end work (beyond piston and cylinder) is beyond what a used engine would cost...which is close to what a good used bike would cost (I've seen '06 KLRs like mine as low as $1800 with low miles, in good shape). > > Jim > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > > > > I have experience on automotive engines, mostly, but I would NOT expect > > the bottom of the connecting rod and the crank bearings to be OK. My > > expectation would be that everything would be in need of refurbishment. > > I could not and would not expect anything to be able to go without oil > > for more than a few minutes. Seriously. I have rebuilt automotive > > engines and had parts "look fine" and make NASTY noises when the rebuild > > was finished. The rebuild turned out to be basically a waste of time > > and money. I learned the hard way that unless it mics within tolerance > > and there are no scores, it's in need of refurbishment. > > > > If it was my bike, I would go all the way down to the bare cases and > > start from there. Be sure to mic everything, don't believe your eyes. > > ANY scoring means it's junk. > > > > Roller bearings are assumed to be bad if they are run without oil. > > Anything else is a miracle, in my opinion. > > > > What caused the oil burning anyway? Loose piston? The metal has to go > > somewhere. > > > > I still cannot believe Kawasaki won't sell an engine. I mean, it > > appears to be the case that they won't, but WTF? There may also be > > "rebuilt" engines out there, but my experience with engine rebuilders > > for cars and boats is that they are liars and lazy cheats and thieves. > > > > No offense meant to anyone on the list. I'm sure there are good ones > > out there, but I haven't found one yet. > > > > > > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng > > +1 916 966 9060 > > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ======================================================== > > > > > > On 11/2/2010 5:09 PM, nhjim10 wrote: > > > > > > My poor '06 KLR has been in mothballs since the spring of '09. Some of > > > you may remember that a week after coming home from a 2500 mile ride, > > > my engine lost oil and seized on the way to work. I trucked the bike > > > to the shop and found not more than a half cup of oil left in it! That > > > was on a Mon or Tues. morning, with less than 20 miles since Friday, > > > when I gassed up and checked the oil. > > > > > > I had pretty much written off the engine, and didn't bother with a > > > teardown, I just looked for a used engine for a reasonable price (and > > > found none). I finally got sick of the bike sitting, so Sunday I > > > lowered it into my basement and pulled the engine. I brought it to > > > work today and pulled the top end off, and was very shocked. I > > > expected the cams and head to be junk, but they are actually in very > > > good shape. The bearing journals are excellent, and the head shows no > > > signs of wear or heat damage. > > > > > > I pulled the head off and found what I expected, the piston was very > > > carboned up, and so was the combustion chamber. Its obvious its been > > > burning a LOT of oil (on my trip I would have to add a half qt. at > > > every gas stop). The piston skirts are very scored, as well as the > > > cylinder. The rod bearings feel very smooth and tight. The crank and > > > what I can see of the crankcase looks clean, not sludged up as I would > > > have expected an oil-starved engine to look. > > > > > > The bike has around 19k on it. My two options are to leave the bottom > > > end alone and hope/assume its good, and buy a 685 kit; OR split the > > > cases and make 100% sure all is fine. The engine already had the Doo > > > done at only the 1k mile mark, and has had Rotella synthetic since 1k > > > miles. > > > > > > Suggestions as to how durable the bottom end of these engines are, and > > > whether I should dig further or put it back together with a new > > > cylinder will be appreciated. > > > > > > By the way, I'm a mechanic by trade, but aren't all that used to bike > > > engines. The mechanical aspect is no problem, but I would hate to > > > spend the money on extra gaskets, and split the case, for nothing. > > > > > > Jim > > > > > > > > >

[nhjim10]

HA! No thanks. One of the reasons the bike sat through 2 riding seasons is that by the time I finish working my regular job, the last thing I wanted to do at home was turn more wrenches. Although another part was that I was unemployed for nearly a year, during which time I had plenty of time to do the work...but no money, so I didn't bother tearing into it. I'll be happy if I can just get this KLR back on the road. I miss the rides I used to take- a day trip around Lake Champlain (440 total miles from driveway to driveway), a day ride to northeastern Maine and back (700 miles round trip), my ride to Kentucky...rode straight through in each direction (1100 miles down, 1400 return trip...taking a few detours), and lots of day rides around NH, Maine, and VT. Jim

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Charlie Y" wrote: > > > But after this you'll be an expert! > Why not start your own KLRebuild business? > > As time goes by more of us will be in your situation. > > > > By the way, I'm a mechanic by trade > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "nhjim10" >