nklr [dsn_klr650] petrol vs: mobil 1

[klrfan]

I have 1,500 miles on my 09 KLR, thinking about switching to full synthetic engine oil, thoughts? Thanks, Doug

[sh8knj8kster]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klrfan" wrote:

> > I have 1,500 miles on my 09 KLR, thinking about switching to full synthetic engine oil, thoughts? > > Thanks, Doug >

~~~~If you don't mind spending extra $$$ every oil change...and it makes you feel like you did something good for your steed, why not? It's your bike, your money. Most here that commute with the KLR change oil and oil filter about every 2 K miles. Last summer I was changing mine about every 1200-1500 miles (using petroleum oil) but I rode it mostly off road in sand and sometimes dry conditions. Getting the oil out of the crankcase sooner than 2 K miles made sense to me, and the motor felt better after an oil change It's always seemed to me to justify spending exttra money for full synthetic 4t crankcase oil, one would have to leave it in the crankcase longer than a conventional petroleum oil...to justify the extra expenditure yet most that use synthetic oil will change as often as they would using a petroleum oil...so where is the savings there? Maybe I'm looking at it wrong but it's my understnading full syn 4t crankcase oil was developed so it can be left in service longer. Changing early would negate that bennie Again, IMO, it comes down to what makes you feel good about your motor, not what others think, and a lot of KLR owners here think using full syn is a waste of money Jake Reddick Fla. "We must respect the other fellow's religion, but only in the sense and to the extent that we respect his theory that his wife is beautiful and his children smart." -H. L. Mencken http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/26137108@N04

[Michael Sutherin]

A well respected owner on another forum highly recommends Mobil 1 15W-50. I've used Kawasaki brand and Rotella. This last oil change (600 miles ago) I switched to the recommended Mobil 1. It is expensive but the advantages are supposed to outweigh the costs. I haven't noticed any oil burning yet on my 2009 with 5600 miles but I've only got 600 miles on this oil change. I was burning oil with the other brands. So far, so good.

On Tue, Oct 26, 2010 at 2:19 AM, klrfan wrote: I have 1,500 miles on my 09 KLR, thinking about switching to full synthetic engine oil, thoughts? Thanks, Doug

-- Michael Sutherin @ Home

[Jeffrey]

Easy to change oil on a KLR Save money Dinosaur juice continues to improve/evolve catchup Fewer oil changes Blow money Easier starting in cold weather Clutch slippage risk if not moto synthetic If you are love with your bike enough to add a Thermo Bob then you might as well use synthetic. I have heard of very few KLR oil related failures. If I roast/ride very hard on my KLR, I change the conventional oil in it with whatever conventional decent oil is on sale. AVERAGE COST $2 A QUART AND AND $3.5O FOR AN EMGO FILTER if I change it. SYNTHETIC GOES FOR $6 A QUART SO, 9 DOLLARS PER OIL AND FILTER CHANGE VERSUS $18 DOLLARS SYNTHETIC IF YOU CHANGE YOUR OIL HALF AS MUCH WITH SYNTHETIC AND SYNTHETIC STAYS GOOD TWICE AS LONG; NO DIFFERENCE!

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-985213394 p {margin:0;}Here are my thoughts on oil *donning flame-proof underwear*.   I will back it up with non-anecdotal evidence. Point 1:  Synthetic oil has been proven to retain viscosity better than dead dinosaurs in motorcycle engines with a common sump (like the KLR).  The transmission gears are very hard on oil and the result is faster viscosity breakdown. Point 2: Motorcycle-Specific oils are no better than those formulated for automobiles in this regard, in fact they don't test as well as off-the-shelf Castrol GTX. Reference for points 1 and 2: http://www.dsrtegl.com/2010/04/automoti ... e-oil.html Point 3:  Before you go dumping honey-thick 15w-50 or 20w-50 into your KLR, please go read some articles about how motor oil actually works in engines.  [b]!!Thicker is not slicker!![/b].  Unless you live in the Sahara in the Summertime (and even if you do), I recommend against this combination.  I used to run it as well, until I discovered through some research that I was wrong.  Reference: Motor Oil 101: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/  --Warning! Science Content! --  Read the whole series of articles and pay attention to the actual viscosity measurements at various temperatures. Point 4: It is not synthetic oil that causes clutch slippage, it is the additive package - more specifically it is Molybdenum Disulfide.  You can spot the presence of this additive by looking for the words "Energy Conserving" on the API seal on the bottle, or something to the effect of "for high-mileage vehicles", etc.  Molybdenum also is a prime cause of sludge if oil containing this additive is used beyond its normal life.  Since motorcycles are hard on oil it probably compounds this effect. Point 5: Synthetic oil can be had for a decent price if you know where to look.  I use Rotella T6 full synth (a group III full synth oil) available at Wal-Mart for 19 bucks a gallon.  It is a Diesel Truck oil, and is JASO MA (motorcycle) certified for wet clutches.  The qualities that make a good diesel truck oil also make a good motorcycle oil, such as high shear resistance, high temperature tolerance and extended drain capability.  It is available in 5w-40 which is an excellent weight for most motorcycles, including the KLR. -Jeff Khoury [b]From: [/b]"Jeffrey" [b]To: [/b]"DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent: [/b]Tuesday, October 26, 2010 7:37:57 AM [b]Subject: [/b][DSN_KLR650] Re: Petrol vs: Mobil 1   Easy to change oil on a KLR Save money Dinosaur juice continues to improve/evolve catchup Fewer oil changes Blow money Easier starting in cold weather Clutch slippage risk if not moto synthetic If you are love with your bike enough to add a Thermo Bob then you might as well use synthetic. I have heard of very few KLR oil related failures. If I roast/ride very hard on my KLR, I change the conventional oil in it with whatever conventional decent oil is on sale. AVERAGE COST $2 A QUART AND AND $3.5O FOR AN EMGO FILTER if I change it. SYNTHETIC GOES FOR $6 A QUART SO, 9 DOLLARS PER OIL AND FILTER CHANGE VERSUS $18 DOLLARS SYNTHETIC IF YOU CHANGE YOUR OIL HALF AS MUCH WITH SYNTHETIC AND SYNTHETIC STAYS GOOD TWICE AS LONG; NO DIFFERENCE!

[Jeffrey]

I read that thin oils like 10-20weight are a scam by the automakers to up mileage to meet CAFE requirements. Synthetic oil is usually thinner and if oil consumption is an issue... Older high miles KLRs(and 08s) can benefit from thicker oil so you don't have to stop often to top up...or run out of oil and blow up your engine. In SoCal I prefer 20-50w in the summer though getting harder to find esp. on sale. So, I mostly run 10-40w or 15-45w diesel. Cheap auto part house brands are fine if they are stamped with the same ratings as brand names. House brands aren't made by Oreilly/Kragen/Autozone. Most are made by the same refiners that make Valvoline/Ashland etc. Just like gasoline. Shell, ARCO, Exxom etc. share/trade refinery output. Jeffrey #3

[The Reverend]

While it's hard to generalize with oil, it mostly boils down to a couple of simple things. 1, Synthetic is better than natural/crude based oil 2, Run the lowest grade oil you can, that keeps the oil pressure within spec in your engine. If a 20 weight oil gets me 60psi at 6000 rpm, then I'll run a 0-20 in my engine. It's that simple. The "0" refers to the viscosity when it's cold. You need this as low as possible to avoid damage from lack of flow. The "20" refers to the viscosity when the oil is hot. This would be the same in all "20" spec oils, whether single or multi-grade. Which is why 20-50 is never used in any of my engines. Alas, I am sure I've been subjected to engines that have had previous owner run that stuff in them. *sigh*

[David Bowden]

There is a huge difference in motorcycle use oil and auto use oil. Anti-foam agents and high heat additives are just two. There is shearing factor for the bearings and many other mechanical differences between cars and motorcycles.  Do some research. I'll never use car oil again in a motorcycle.  -----Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 26, 2010, at 9:04 AM, "Jeffrey" wrote:

  I read that thin oils like 10-20weight are a scam by the automakers to up mileage to meet CAFE requirements. Synthetic oil is usually thinner and if oil consumption is an issue... Older high miles KLRs(and 08s) can benefit from thicker oil so you don't have to stop often to top up...or run out of oil and blow up your engine. In SoCal I prefer 20-50w in the summer though getting harder to find esp. on sale. So, I mostly run 10-40w or 15-45w diesel. Cheap auto part house brands are fine if they are stamped with the same ratings as brand names. House brands aren't made by Oreilly/Kragen/Autozone. Most are made by the same refiners that make Valvoline/Ashland etc. Just like gasoline. Shell, ARCO, Exxom etc. share/trade refinery output. Jeffrey #3

[fasteddiecopeman]

Doug, I run (car!!!) Mobil 1 15w-50 synthetic in my KLR and my Versys, and am very happy to do so. The KLR has 45,000 miles on M 1 and the V has 16,000. Both changed to M 1 early. Cheers, Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klrfan" wrote: > > I have 1,500 miles on my 09 KLR, thinking about switching to full synthetic engine oil, thoughts? > > Thanks, Doug >

[Jeffrey]

Motorcycle Bearings versus Automotive Bearings; That is a weird claim because some of my cars have used the same exact bearings as my motorcycles. Motorcycles and cars both can overheat; both be driven hard in the desert in the summer The main difference is in most motorcycles the oil is fouled by having to lube the clutch. And stuff comes off the clutch into the oil. Because of this fact it is best to change your dinosaur oil more or use synthetic. Jeffrey #3