new battery charging

[Jud]

I'm not hearing anything persuasive here, or even useful.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jeffrey" wrote: > > Re: Cleaning Chain, lube > > You are well-advised to do so. If your sprocket needs changing, your chain does too. So, how long do they last? > > NOPE. My chains check out fine but I replace the chain with the sprockets when the sprocket teeth look funky. The sprockets last 15 to 20k then again front sprockets wear at a different rate than the rear. > > WD40 being thin isn't going to do much for the sprockets. Of course you could be obsessive and clean and lube your chain during the middle of your ride and small WD40 99 cent can is convenient for this. But, if you use up over $100 dollars of WD40 or ATF or Silicone spray, you are wasting your time. > > AGAIN, I USE WD40 BUT NOT ON RELATIVELY NEW CHAINS. I WANT TO PRESERVE THE RUBBER O RINGS AND THIS IS BEST DONE WITH ATF OR SILICONE SPRAY. Cleaning is best done with a cleaner and lubing best done with a lube esp. around rubber! > > Vasoline/Petrol products bad for rubber. > ATF and silicone spray good for rubber. > > Vasoline/Petrol type stuff is in WD40 and if you used it on a condom; she would get knocked up! > > Jeffrey #3 >

[revmaaatin]

Jeffery-- I am guessing; that the words below are taken from an article somewhere. ie. it is not your original work/thought. If so, please include appropriate attribution/link as necessary. revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jeffrey" wrote: > > While we did not focus much attention on the heated fluid itself, we measured the respective viscosity before and after heating them for 1,000 hours at 121[degrees]C. Table 1 shows the reduction in viscosity, contrary to the expectation of a small increase in viscosity due to removal of volatiles during heating. It is, however, important to note that the heating was in a static condition, where the fluids were not worked or put under shear that could further degrade their molecular chains into smaller lengths. This absence of shearing could explain the small reduction of viscosities. > > We have further measured how the physical properties of seals were affected when heated in air, and compared the results to when heated in the two fluids. As expected, figures 12-14 show the adverse effect of increasing temperature on the physical properties of seals. At 121[degrees]C, the seals that were heated in 15W40 fluid became harder than those heated in air or ATF fluid. Again, the effect of heating is minimal on the seals heated in ATF. It is important to note, too, that all the tests were conducted in static conditions. The combined effect of time, temperature and dynamic articulation is a subject for future consideration. We, however, have produced road data from returned seals that were suspected of losing seal capabilities because non-ATF fluid was used in the gears. Figure 15 shows the relevant physical data (ID, hardness and sealing force) that were measured on the returned seals in a case-by-case basis and compared with that of a new seal. In all cases, the use of non-ATF fluid had significant detrimental effect on all indicators of good sealing properties of seals. > > [FIGURES 12-14 OMITTED] > > Conclusions > > The safe and satisfactory performance of most power assist vehicular steering systems for mobility vehicles depends on using the recommended power steering fluid in the gear. This is because the rubber seals that are integral to the inner working of gears can be adversely affected if the power steering fluid is not compatible with the seals. In the working conditions of a typical steering gear, rubber seals can swell or shrink excessively, or can be in other ways degraded by the contacting fluid. Hydrogenated nitrile (HNBR) rubber compounds and seals were studied in this work. HNBR was chosen because of its being a choice elastomer for making PS gear seals. > > The ATF fluids were less destructive with the two seal compounds at the temperatures investigated. The non-ATF fluid tended to extract unattached and un-bonded compounding ingredients from the rubber matrix. This leads to excessive shrinkage, increasing hardness, reduced lip flexibility, reduced interference and seal leakage. >

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-1283137673 p {margin:0;}I may be inviting dissenting comments, but here are my thoughts on chain and sprocket wear, with my rationale behind them: 1.  I always replace my chain BEFORE it starts going bad.  Chains increase in length not because of stretching, but because of wear on each pin and roller causing extra slack between the links.  A chain will go a long time with very very little wear, but when they go... they go fast.  It is when the chain starts to go that the majority of the wear happens to your sprockets - the chain dies and takes the sprockets with it.  Conversely, if your sprockets are hosed, it puts undue stress on the pins and rollers of even a new chain and shortens its life significantly. 2. If you change your chain at the first signs of wear, you can use the sprockets through 2 or sometimes 3 chains.  These signs of wear are easy to spot.  With the proper amount of slack in your chain, if you see the links in the bottom of the chain start being misaligned, that is - not swinging freely straight after they come off the front sprocket.  Second, check lateral deflection.  as a chain wears, you will be able to bend the chain side-to-side.  There are tolerances for lateral deflection, but an eyeball will do just fine. 3. Front sprockets wear at approximately 3 times the rate of rear sprockets, absent the chain killing them.  For every revolution of your rear sprocket, your front makes 3 trips around.  If you keep your chain in spec, your rear sprocket should last through 3 fronts. 4. You may be tempted to try to get 30,000 miles out of a chain.  I recommend against it, for personal reasons.  First, when I was about 15 and not so diligent on my maintenance, a worn chain and sprocket combo caused the chain on my DT125 to come off in a turn, wrapping itself up in the rear end and locking the rear tire.  Crashing ensued.  Second, my brother set out on my old Seca II for a weekend round-trip to Albuquerque.  He left with a chain showing the first signs of wear and had to limp home three days later with a chain spitting rollers through a long and lonely desert at night. 5. Chains are relatively cheap.  A generic x-ring chain for the KLR can be had for about 60 bucks - get 15-20K out of it and replace it even if it doesn't appear urgent that you do.  You probably have that much in your pocket right now.  Why skimp trying to set some record for service life on a cheap consumable item, when you'll end up killing your sprockets, risking getting stranded or crashing your bike? P.S.  The condom reference:  Most condoms are made from Latex, not rubber.  Completely different chemical properties.  -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeffrey" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 12:12:34 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Cleaning Chain, lube   Re: Cleaning Chain, lube You are well-advised to do so. If your sprocket needs changing, your chain does too. So, how long do they last? NOPE. My chains check out fine but I replace the chain with the sprockets when the sprocket teeth look funky. The sprockets last 15 to 20k then again front sprockets wear at a different rate than the rear. WD40 being thin isn't going to do much for the sprockets. Of course you could be obsessive and clean and lube your chain during the middle of your ride and small WD40 99 cent can is convenient for this. But, if you use up over $100 dollars of WD40 or ATF or Silicone spray, you are wasting your time. AGAIN, I USE WD40 BUT NOT ON RELATIVELY NEW CHAINS. I WANT TO PRESERVE THE RUBBER O RINGS AND THIS IS BEST DONE WITH ATF OR SILICONE SPRAY. Cleaning is best done with a cleaner and lubing best done with a lube esp. around rubber! Vasoline/Petrol products bad for rubber. ATF and silicone spray good for rubber. Vasoline/Petrol type stuff is in WD40 and if you used it on a condom; she would get knocked up! Jeffrey #3

[skypilot110]

If you disregard everything else Jeff said and just read the part below, which would be fool hearty since it was well written, then you would still have the only logical answer. Sorry to repeat your words Jeff but some people's eyes start to glaze over after one or two paragraphs.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > 5. Chains are relatively cheap. A generic x-ring chain for the KLR can be had for about 60 bucks - get 15-20K out of it and replace it even if it doesn't appear urgent that you do. You probably have that much in your pocket right now. Why skimp trying to set some record for service life on a cheap consumable item, when you'll end up killing your sprockets, risking getting stranded or crashing your bike? >

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-867314583 p {margin:0;}I do have a tendency to be wordy, huh? Maybe I should work on that.  For some reason I feel I must explain the reasoning behind my opinion lest it be disregarded as unfounded.  Maybe it's because I read so many scientific papers where you must show your work to support your conclusions. Good to know at least someone reads them, though.  -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "skypilot110" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 7:42:54 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Cleaning Chain, lube   If you disregard everything else Jeff said and just read the part below, which would be fool hearty since it was well written, then you would still have the only logical answer. Sorry to repeat your words Jeff but some people's eyes start to glaze over after one or two paragraphs. --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > 5. Chains are relatively cheap. A generic x-ring chain for the KLR can be had for about 60 bucks - get 15-20K out of it and replace it even if it doesn't appear urgent that you do. You probably have that much in your pocket right now. Why skimp trying to set some record for service life on a cheap consumable item, when you'll end up killing your sprockets, risking getting stranded or crashing your bike? >

[Eckert, Christopher (Infrastructure Solut]

#ygrps-yiv-1291477953 P { MARGIN:0px;} Nope, it was well written and very pertinent. Some people just get as far as the 3rd sentence before their eyes glaze over and they decide to go find some donuts and coffee.  ADD is everywhere! [b]From:[/b] Jeff Khoury [mailto:jeff@...] [b]Sent:[/b] Wednesday, June 30, 2010 11:14 AM [b]To:[/b] Eckert, Christopher (Infrastructure Solutions Dept.) [b]Cc:[/b] DSN KLR650 [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Cleaning Chain, lube I do have a tendency to be wordy, huh? ************************************************************ This communication, including attachments, is for the exclusive use of addressee and may contain proprietary, confidential and/or privileged information.  If you are not the intended recipient, any use, copying, disclosure, dissemination or distribution is strictly prohibited.  If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and destroy all copies. ************************************************************

[mark ward]

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-2038377094 p {margin:0;}Generic, serviceable chains for 50-60 bucks.  I've used them and had good luck in the past.  They last plus or minus just like the big name brands, quality is on a par with the EK "value" chains such as the SRO and SRX.  (The EK SRO is the Kawi stock chain on the KLR - 106 links) This chain is also sold in bulk, and a lot of shops cut it to length and install when someone comes in and doesn't specify a particular brand. The o-ring chains have a clip-type master, and the x-ring ones are rivet type.  Master links are available in either style for either chain separately. http://www.bikebandit.com/parts-unlimit ... ring-chain http://www.bikebandit.com/parts-unlimit ... ring-chain -Jeff Khoury

[Jeff Saline]

Dave, Two amps for 7 hours would be 14 amps, the same as a KLR battery. Since it already has a bit of a charge from your activating the battery 4 hours should be enough to bring it to full charge. Maybe monitor the temperature of the battery (feel it with your hand) to make sure it's not getting too hot. If it gets hot just stop charging it for an hour or two and let it cool. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT <><><>> <>><><><> writes:

> I added the sulphuric acid to the new Yausa over an hour ago and I'm > about to trickle charge it with my auto battery charger. However, > the lowest output from my charger is 2 amps. The sticker on the > battery says 1.2 amps for 5 - 10 hours. Do you know if 2 amps at > maybe 3 - 4 hours would harm the battery or create a hazard? > > Dave > A-16

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[Chris]

Or put your conclusions at the beginning and the end ... and people who get all fired up at the beginning can then read the details Chris, who likes details and conclusions

On 6/30/2010 11:14 AM, Jeff Khoury wrote: I do have a tendency to be wordy, huh? Maybe I should work on that. For some reason I feel I must explain the reasoning behind my opinion lest it be disregarded as unfounded. Maybe it's because I read so many scientific papers where you must show your work to support your conclusions. Good to know at least someone reads them, though. -Jeff Khoury ----- Original Message ----- From: "skypilot110" To: "DSN KLR650" Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 7:42:54 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Cleaning Chain, lube If you disregard everything else Jeff said and just read the part below, which would be fool hearty since it was well written, then you would still have the only logical answer. Sorry to repeat your words Jeff but some people's eyes start to glaze over after one or two paragraphs. --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury jeff@... wrote: > > 5. Chains are relatively cheap. A generic x-ring chain for the KLR can be had for about 60 bucks - get 15-20K out of it and replace it even if it doesn't appear urgent that you do. You probably have that much in your pocket right now. Why skimp trying to set some record for service life on a cheap consumable item, when you'll end up killing your sprockets, risking getting stranded or crashing your bike? >