fort bragg, nc

[Jeffrey]

Jacked up KLR on alu skid plate till front wheel came off ground Unscrewed one fork drain screw Let drain into bucket Hooked up air compressor to Schrader valve (a few times) Pumped out more old fork oil. Fork oil was black; had 15k on oil; 29k on bike Loosened upper triple clamp bolts Took off fork cap Poured old 1 fork oil from bucket into measurement beaker=310 CC Put drain screw back in Filled back up with 315 CC(figured 5 CC left in bucket) Mercedes Synthetic Trans Fluid(cost more than fork oil); I had some in inventory. Put Cap back on Tightened upper triple clamp bolts Repeated other side. Still have the original fork seals but one leaked a 2k miles ago so I added 20 CC Trans X to the leaky fork and the leaked stopped quickly...One side had a few more CCs than the other due to the Trans X stop leak. Jeffrey #3 PS Don't forget to let down off jack.

[Luc Legrain]

[Michael Sims]

Guys, I'd be wary of using the pressurized fork oil change procedure - if you do this, use minimal air pressure. After all, that's what the Schrader air valve on the top of forks are for - to relieve air pressure. While not so much on a domesticated beast as a KLR, these valves are used to let out compression induced, heat expanded air in competition off road bikes.. Changing out the fork oil on a regular basis is good. Remember what oil is for: it cleans, cools, lubricates and helps prevent corrosion.  I changed out my original fork springs last fall and there was noticeable corrosion on the factory spacer (on top of the springs).  With the Progressive springs I put in, I just cut the corroded sections off and now have a nice cushy ride. If you try and blow out the fork oil, YOU MIGHT BLOW A SEAL (Don't claim it was just ice cream cone)! MS

--- On [b]Wed, 6/2/10, Luc Legrain [i][/i][/b] wrote: From: Luc Legrain Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Easy fork oil change To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, June 2, 2010, 9:49 PM    The post below raises a BIG question for my '05 , I 've always religiously done the engine oil change, chain, doo , but I've never ever worried or thought about the front forks ( except for adding air ) ,is this oil change a "MUST " or is it something you do once in a while on a rainy or snowy day or if you want to stay away from the wifey ? 30k on bike never changed fork oil, it is just lubrication for the springs,right ?  [b]From:[/b] Jeffrey [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wed, June 2, 2010 9:28:33 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Easy fork oil change   Jacked up KLR on alu skid plate till front wheel came off ground Unscrewed one fork drain screw Let drain into bucket Hooked up air compressor to Schrader valve (a few times) Pumped out more old fork oil. Fork oil was black; had 15k on oil; 29k on bike Loosened upper triple clamp bolts Took off fork cap Poured old 1 fork oil from bucket into measurement beaker=310 CC Put drain screw back in Filled back up with 315 CC(figured 5 CC left in bucket) Mercedes Synthetic Trans Fluid(cost more than fork oil); I had some in inventory. Put Cap back on Tightened upper triple clamp bolts Repeated other side. Still have the original fork seals but one leaked a 2k miles ago so I added 20 CC Trans X to the leaky fork and the leaked stopped quickly...One side had a few more CCs than the other due to the Trans X stop leak. Jeffrey #3 PS Don't forget to let down off jack.

[Jeffrey]

I had the drain screws out of the bottom of the forks when I used a small air compressor on the top Schrader valves. The air compressor gauge showed 5 psi max till I stuck my finger over the drain holes a few times and let it get up to 20 psi. I am sure jumping the KLR on dirt shoots the fork pressure to near 100 psi briefly. Jeffrey #3

[Jeffrey]

Just lubrication for the springs? Sounds like something I would tell an ex blond GF...Anyways I figure clean fluid better fork action and less likely to leak. Thinks slide, friction, compress, oil breaks down, viscosity changes with age. If you want to do it the hard core way and spend hours doing it: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Fork_Oil.pdf I don't let my fork oil go 30k miles but I am not taking them off and apart unless I have to ie the seals leak and TransX or the piece of film method don't stop the leak. Now I need to change the fork oil in my mtn bike which I have neglected for 10 yrs. But, my RochShox Judy mtn bike forks don't leak and still work. Jeffrey #3

[dooden]

IF you need to change the fork seal, I found using a 4-way 1 1/4" PVC connector works well for seating the seal. Slide 4-way down and tap on sides until the seal is in place. I also used air pressure to blow out old leaking seal, and trust me you better wrap a couple of rags around the seal area "PRIOR" to pumping up the pressure, goggles or tight fitting safety glasses should also be worn. One heck of a spray can come out when it pops. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jeffrey" wrote: > > Just lubrication for the springs? Sounds like something I would tell an ex blond GF...Anyways I figure clean fluid better fork action and less likely to leak. Thinks slide, friction, compress, oil breaks down, viscosity changes with age. > > If you want to do it the hard core way and spend hours doing it: > http://www.klr650.marknet.us/Fork_Oil.pdf > > I don't let my fork oil go 30k miles but I am not taking them off and apart unless I have to ie the seals leak and TransX or the piece of film method don't stop the leak. > > Now I need to change the fork oil in my mtn bike which I have neglected for 10 yrs. But, my RochShox Judy mtn bike forks don't leak and still work. > > Jeffrey #3 >

[sourdoughmedic]

I'm looking for anybody near by in order to get to know the lay of the land or to locate some trails and maybe attend a dual sport run or something like that. Anyone around these parts? Larry 09 KLR