found this....

[rm@richardmay.net]

On Sun, 14 Dec 2003, Gary Parece wrote:

>Hi, did you do both wheels?

Only the rear. I'll do the front one of these days.

>When you had both rim lock opposite each other , did you have to put wt`s >in other parts of the rim? (rim lock-90, degrees over wt`s another 90 >degrees rim lock and then wt`s 90 degrees later) In other word if rim >locks are opposite each other wouldn`t you have two heavy spots.

At 180-degrees, they balanced each other and I didn't need to add any weights.

>To me 120 rim lock, 120 rim lock, 120 wt`s , would be easier to balance. >I realy have no clue, that why i`m asking the ?.Thanks for you time!!!

At 120 degrees apart, it took 3-4 oz of weight to balance everything. The two locks and the gaggle of weights form the three points of a "Y". RM

[Andrus Chesley]

I really think that if I was to go low on tire pressures and worried about the tire just spinning I may try the old Bultaco route of sheet metal screws thru the sides of the rim into the tires. That's the way my JP Rep Bul was set up from the factory. 4 on each side if I remem correctly. Now, I don't have a clue how that would act with a flat tire situation. Never had a flat with that setup. But it did make tire changing much easier than my TM 250 Suzook with the rimlock. Just a thought. Andy in Louisiana

[Murray Dochstader]

Morning, Andy: I ran screws in the rims of my off-road KLR for about a year, but found it a real hassle to fully remove them when changing tires (I tried to change a tube w/o backing out the screws (8 of them), and ripped it). A properly-sized rim lock works best for me, and doesn't slow down trail-side tire repairs much. It does create balance issues though, and, in the "olden days", we used to chisel the inside of the rims (two directions on the rear, and one direction on the front). This was surprisingly effective, and you could get a rear tire change down to about three minutes if you were really "hot". We used to have contests at the end of I.S.D.T. qualifiers to do a tire change - I even won once or twice - the prize was normally a bottle of cheap Champaign. Tires today, while expensive, are so good, that I rarely have "issues" with them any more as long as I use the proper ones for the job - I still carry repair gear with me, but I hardly ever need it any more. That's probably because I am going slower all the time! (One of the many prices we pay as we age, I guess). Murray Dochstader B.C. Canada. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[takes2serious]

I'm new to off-road riding and I'm not sure about rim locks. How does the sizing work? Do I only need one per wheel? I take it you have to drill the rims. Any particular brand or style preferred above others? Thanks.

[Devon]

rshultz@... wrote:

>I'm new to off-road riding and I'm not sure about rim locks. How >does the sizing work? Do I only need one per wheel? I take it you >have to drill the rims. > >

One per wheel will prevent ripping the valve stem out when you use low tire pressures. You can get SIGNIFICANTLY more traction offroad by airing down. Two rimlocks per tire will enable you to ride a flat tire, safely and in control of the bike, until the tire disintegrates. You definitely have a few miles at the least until you damage the tire. Since you are riding on the highway (otherwise why have a KLR) as well as the dirt, you'll need to balance the wheel. With one rimlock you'll have to use almost that much weight on the other side of the rim, so why not have the weight be something functional (another rimlock). You'll have to drill the rim. Lots of people ride offroad without rim locks, I did for two years. I use them now though. Devon

[Devon]

rshultz@... wrote:

> >Any particular brand or style preferred above others? Thanks. > >

Oh, I bought mine from dual-star.com, they know which ones fit the KLR. Made by motion-pro IIRC. Devon

[takes2serious]

Anyone out there run rim locks on the rear only? Being a newbie, it would seem to me that tire slip would be primarily a rear-wheel issue, no? I already notice the increased weight of a ultra-hd tube on my fromt and am not looking forward to a rim lock there if I don't really need it. Any thoughts? Randy

[Devon]

rshultz@... wrote:

>Anyone out there run rim locks on the rear only? > >Being a newbie, it would seem to me that tire slip would be primarily >a rear-wheel issue, no? I already notice the increased weight of a >ultra-hd tube on my fromt and am not looking forward to a rim lock >there if I don't really need it. Any thoughts? >

I think you're "noticing" the slow steering of a K270 tire, and not necessarily the HD tube. I use rimlocks on the front and the rear. Above 16psi I have never encountered tire slip on a KLR, I use the rimlocks so the bead stays on the rim if I get a flat. Devon

[Tom Zangla]

What size rim locks does a A 19 (2005) KLR 650 take? 1.60 1.85 2.15 2.50 Also.... The standard rear tire for the KLR 650 130/80 - 17 and I noticed that the Dunlop D606 Dual Sport Rear Tire is 130/90 -17 Does the 90 cause any problems? Tom SW Pennsylvania

[Michael Martin]

Tom, My A19 has the rim size written on the rim right alongside the valve stem - 1.60 front, 2.50 rear. I've no experience with the Dunlop, but the tire is popular for the KLR650. See: http://www.standoutnet.com/extras/mike/motorcycles/klr650/tires/#d606 You will probably want to relocate the license plate, so the tire won't rip it off. Mike Martin, Louisville, KY ----- Original Message ---- From: Tom Zangla What size rim locks does a A 19 (2005) KLR 650 take? 1.60 1.85 2.15 2.50 Also.... The standard rear tire for the KLR 650 130/80 - 17 and I noticed that the Dunlop D606 Dual Sport Rear Tire is 130/90 -17 Does the 90 cause any problems? Tom SW Pennsylvania __ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]