cheaper front brake lever????

[Rick Brown]

I'm interested in a lower front sprocket.  What's Fred's contact info?   Thanks, Rick [b]From:[/b] "roncriswell@..." [b]To:[/b] RobertWichert [b]Cc:[/b] revmaaatin ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Sun, May 16, 2010 6:06:28 PM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Riding in 4th   Not with my experience. Ran an a 13 last year at Moab after changing to it when I got here. I changed backed to stock on the ride back home. Sometimes math is an not exact science I guess. Criswell

On May 16, 2010, at 9:14 AM, RobertWichert wrote:  

Well, this is interesting, .  Unless my math skills are out of step with reality, changing from a 15 tooth to a 14 tooth increases the engine speed by seven percent at the same ground speed.  If you hit 5000 rpm at indicated 80, then you will have to hit 5357 rpm to hold the same speed with a 14 tooth.  The 13 tooth will increase engine speed by almost sixteen percent over stock, so if you have to go 5000 rpm to go indicated 80 mph with stock, you will have to turn 5769 rpm with a 13 tooth.  This checks with your "rule of thumb". I had the impression that changing to a 13 tooth requires an new chain.  Can you verify or deny this rumour? Robert P. Wichert P.Eng +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ============ ========= ========= ========= ========= ======== On 5/16/2010 5:58 AM, revmaaatin wrote:   --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, RobertWichert robert@... wrote: > > Folks, > > I am seriously considering changing to a 14 tooth front sprocket. For > the following reasons: > > 1) I went riding on a sandy road two weeks ago, and I never got out > of first gear. Ever. > 2) There are times when I would like to go slower, with enough > throttle to make a difference. This even happens in parking lots. When > I learned to ride, we put HUGE sprockets on the back and just crawled > along. I did lots of gnarly stuff like that and didn't know the difference. > 3) From what I can tell, I will still be able to ride at 80 mph (my > highway speed preference) without getting above 5500 rpm. > 4) Does anybody have a "speed in gears" chart for the KLR 650? > 5) I know that Kawi was looking for compromise, but I think they may > have opted for less revs to keep people from freaking out. For me, the > extra 500 rpm is not scary. And I don't care if I hit 100 mph or not. > > Any advice from the gallery? Jud? > > > Robert P. Wichert P.Eng Robert, If you 'think' you will like a 14T then I know you will like a 13T. It gives the KLR a true Granny, and in fifth gear, it gives you WOT performance at 60mph. wink. Rule of thumb: change the front sprocket 1T= ~400rpm difference for the same speed. ie, note the rpm at 65mph = Xrpm; change to 14 T and you will go 65mph at X+400rpm. 13T=X+800rpm @65mph. At ~45-50 mph, the 13T sprocket/heavily laden bikes on the 2008 GDR, the 13T still gave us 50+mpg fuel economy. The bike will still easily go 65 gps/mph with the 13T; just watch your oil level. revmaaatin. yes, I approve of this message and have run the 13T/43T combination for over 2000K miles at a time. ps. be sure the wide side of the 13T sprocket collar is against the engine--otherwise, you might scrape the engine case with the chain.

[dooden]

http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com His Phone # and all info is there... I know after playing in the woods the last couple days its time to put the 14t back on at least. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick Brown wrote: > > I'm interested in a lower front sprocket. What's Fred's contact info? > > Thanks, > Rick > > > > > ________________________________ > From: "roncriswell@..." > To: RobertWichert > Cc: revmaaatin ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sun, May 16, 2010 6:06:28 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Riding in 4th > > > Not with my experience. Ran an a 13 last year at Moab after changing to it when I got here. I changed backed to stock on the ride back home. Sometimes math is an not exact science I guess. > > Criswell > > On May 16, 2010, at 9:14 AM, RobertWichert wrote: > > > >Well, this is interesting, . Unless my math skills are out of step with reality, changing from a 15 tooth to a 14 tooth increases the engine speed by seven percent at the same ground speed. If you hit 5000 rpm at indicated 80, then you will have to hit 5357 rpm to hold the same speed with a 14 tooth. The 13 tooth will increase engine speed by almost sixteen percent over stock, so if you have to go 5000 rpm to go indicated 80 mph with stock, you will have to turn 5769 rpm with a 13 tooth. This checks with your "rule of thumb". > > > >I had the impression that changing to a 13 tooth requires an new chain. Can you verify or deny this rumour? > > > > > > > >Robert P. Wichert P.Eng > >+1 916 966 9060 > >FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >============ ========= ========= ========= ========= ======== > >On 5/16/2010 5:58 AM, revmaaatin wrote: > > > >> > >> > >>--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, RobertWichert wrote: > >>> > >>> Folks, > >>> > >>> I am seriously considering changing to a 14 tooth front sprocket. For > >>> the following reasons: > >>> > >>> 1) I went riding on a sandy road two weeks ago, and I never got out > >>> of first gear. Ever. > >>> 2) There are times when I would like to go slower, with enough > >>> throttle to make a difference. This even happens in parking lots. When > >>> I learned to ride, we put HUGE sprockets on the back and just crawled > >>> along. I did lots of gnarly stuff like that and didn't know the difference. > >>> 3) From what I can tell, I will still be able to ride at 80 mph (my > >>> highway speed preference) without getting above 5500 rpm. > >>> 4) Does anybody have a "speed in gears" chart for the KLR 650? > >>> 5) I know that Kawi was looking for compromise, but I think they may > >>> have opted for less revs to keep people from freaking out. For me, the > >>> extra 500 rpm is not scary. And I don't care if I hit 100 mph or not. > >>> > >>> Any advice from the gallery? Jud? > >>> > >>> > >>> Robert P. Wichert P.Eng > >> > >>Robert, > >>If you 'think' you will like a 14T then I know you will like a 13T. It gives the KLR a true Granny, and in fifth gear, it gives you WOT performance at 60mph. wink. > >> > >>Rule of thumb: change the front sprocket 1T= ~400rpm difference for the same speed. ie, note the rpm at 65mph = Xrpm; change to 14 T and you will go 65mph at X+400rpm. 13T=X+800rpm @65mph. > >> > >>At ~45-50 mph, the 13T sprocket/heavily laden bikes on the 2008 GDR, the 13T still gave us 50+mpg fuel economy. > >>The bike will still easily go 65 gps/mph with the 13T; just watch your oil level. > >> > >>revmaaatin. yes, I approve of this message > >>and have run the 13T/43T combination for over 2000K miles at a time. > >> > >>ps. be sure the wide side of the 13T sprocket collar is against the engine--otherwise, you might scrape the engine case with the chain. > >> > >> > > > > >

[Jeff Khoury]

#ygrps-yiv-1684558125 p {margin:0;}10 minutes is a long time, Now for the disclaimers: My tool kit is "expanded".  I have a real ratchet and the correct sockets for most nuts and bolts and real wrenches too.  I don't typically carry it with me, but I have a puller for the sprocket in case it's stuck, and have it before I start.  I also have the prevailing torque nut from Eagle Mikes, so no fussing around with the bendy washer, and I use a hitch pin on the rear axle so no messing with a cotter pin. Loosen axle nut  27mm deep socket Loosen adjusters  12mm wrench Kick the rear tire Remove the countershaft cover, 8mm Remove countershaft nut 30mm or 1-3/16" (27mm for stock) Don rubber gloves Pull off the chain Tap the sprocket or use a puller and remove Install new sprocket, if it's a 16T, put the chain on it first.  15 and 14 can be installed first, then chain can be put on. Install nut Install cover Yank the rear wheel Adjust chain Tighten axle nut Re-check chain. That's do-able in 10 minutes, with practice... If you do it all the time, nuts won't be seized and stuff won't be stuck together.  Cleaning the threads every now and then helps, too. -Jeff Khoury

----- Original Message ----- From: "revmaaatin" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2010 6:32:29 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Riding in 4th   --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > Richard, > > If you're going to swap them around a lot, why go through all the effort of changing the rear sprocket (Removing the wheel, brake, all the bolts holding it on, etc) when you can remove a small cover and change the front? > > If you switch to the prevailing torque nut, it's even easier. Takes 10 minutes, tops... including adjusting the chain. > > > > -Jeff Khoury Oh, Baby. You are the man! 10 minutes--you are a crew chief for a KLR mech team! smile. For the rest of us 'plumbers', it will take a little longer-- One of the original KLR gurus "Devon" from NY (NYsingletrack) used to advertise 20 minutes for a sprocket change; he suggested that he rode 60-100 miles from NYC to a place to ride, change to 14T, etc. Always thought if you are going to that much trouble, change to a 13T. shrug. Otherwise, I would run the 14T all the time. 2 each his own wonton. Sproket change: Most will need at least 20 minutes, and the first "time trial" will be closer to 30 minutes; later, it might be 20 minutes if you don't lose a bolt, or 'get lost' in counting the number of rotations on the chain tensioner for proper chain/wheel alignment, or cut yourself (my new favorite). Hint: Jeff Saline has an excellent suggestion of indexing the hex nut; mark the top flat with a center punch with one 'punch' mark, and the opposite flat with two punch marks. Helps to track exactly how much you have moved the nut. (Don't talk to anyone while you are counting the turns; if you do, you will get lost on how many turn you have made. sigh. I have the T-shirt for that bone-head mistake, uh, one in L and one in XL.) NO real foul, it just take longer to check the chain alignment, etc. Hint: Replacing the double nut chain tensioner with a nyloc nut or prevailing torque nut on the pre-08 models makes the chain tensioning a lot faster and simpler. Note: if using a nyloc nut (nylon center insert locking nut) if you can turn it with your finger past the end of the nut, it is worn out. Throw it away and buy a new one. revmaaatin. ps. As I recall, Devon and another man "Jake" were the leading edge of the dohickey research/development. Others might comment/remember to what extent.

[SM]

14 tooth is your friend for off road, especially sand. Also, you can still hum along at freeway speeds all day (make sure you keep an eye on your oil, I think all KLRs burn some when kept at 5800 rpm for hours on end...). 13 tooth is overkill unless you are competing in trials events, and even then I bet you'd dab fewer times with a 14 tooth. Thanks CA Stu

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote:

> > 10 minutes is a long time, Now for the disclaimers: > > My tool kit is "expanded". I have a real ratchet and the correct sockets for most nuts and bolts and real wrenches too. I don't typically carry it with me, but I have a puller for the sprocket in case it's stuck, and have it before I start. I also have the prevailing torque nut from Eagle Mikes, so no fussing around with the bendy washer, and I use a hitch pin on the rear axle so no messing with a cotter pin. > > Loosen axle nut 27mm deep socket > Loosen adjusters 12mm wrench > Kick the rear tire > Remove the countershaft cover, 8mm > Remove countershaft nut 30mm or 1-3/16" (27mm for stock) > Don rubber gloves > Pull off the chain > Tap the sprocket or use a puller and remove > Install new sprocket, if it's a 16T, put the chain on it first. 15 and 14 can be installed first, then chain can be put on. > Install nut > Install cover > Yank the rear wheel > Adjust chain > Tighten axle nut > Re-check chain. > > That's do-able in 10 minutes, with practice... > > If you do it all the time, nuts won't be seized and stuff won't be stuck together. Cleaning the threads every now and then helps, too. > > > -Jeff Khoury >

Jeff- Excellent post as usual. smile. But somewhere between #1 and #15, my list includes hydrogen peroxide and a band-aid. One little trick to shoving the tire forward: Loosen the axle nut Loosen the chain tensioner nuts equal amounts (pre-08 model) Put the bike in gear Rotate the tire 'smartly' in its correct rotation --drives the tire forward against the chain tensioner position. I also put just a touch of pressure/compression on the axle nut before starting the adjusting of the chain tensioner--dragging the axle rearward under positive pressure. For those who will still be using their OEM axle nut, a new cotter pin is nice--and a spare belongs in the tool kit. Jeff mentions the prevailing torque nut for the C/S; Prevailing torque nuts are also available for the axles--which make maintenance task easier. (some are only comfortable with Castellated axle nuts...shurg.) Miles and miles later, I love mine. revmaaatin.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "SM" wrote:

> > 14 tooth is your friend for off road, especially sand. Also, you can still hum along at freeway speeds all day (make sure you keep an eye on your oil, I think all KLRs burn some when kept at 5800 rpm for hours on end...). > > 13 tooth is overkill unless you are competing in trials events, and even then I bet you'd dab fewer times with a 14 tooth. > > Thanks > CA Stu >

Hmm. Dabbing less with a 14T. Has not been my experience. shrug. Me thinks you are trolling...smile. Of course Stu is right--for most cases and most folks; 13T is overkill. smile. On my second ride along the GDR, I used the 13T vs the 14T of the first ride, and found it a lot friendlier for most circumstances. Jeff Saline was the only one of 5 KLRistas not to have a significant 'biff' dirt nap due to being over-geared on the Lava Mt section of the 2004GDR. In discussion, we all agreed that most of that was due to his gearing, not his good looks. LOL [/i]

[Jud]

Ten minutes is on the high end for me, too, if I am working alone and free of distractions. If I have a helper, or I am trying to smoke a cigar, the time doubles. Unless the helper is Craig. Then, the minute he decides I am fumbling my tools, he steps in and does it himself. It takes him about 15 minutes, which I can spend in a chair, concentrating on my cigar.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Khoury wrote: > > 10 minutes is a long time, Now for the disclaimers: > > My tool kit is "expanded". I have a real ratchet and the correct sockets for most nuts and bolts and real wrenches too. I don't typically carry it with me, but I have a puller for the sprocket in case it's stuck, and have it before I start. I also have the prevailing torque nut from Eagle Mikes, so no fussing around with the bendy washer, and I use a hitch pin on the rear axle so no messing with a cotter pin. > > Loosen axle nut 27mm deep socket > Loosen adjusters 12mm wrench > Kick the rear tire > Remove the countershaft cover, 8mm > Remove countershaft nut 30mm or 1-3/16" (27mm for stock) > Don rubber gloves > Pull off the chain > Tap the sprocket or use a puller and remove > Install new sprocket, if it's a 16T, put the chain on it first. 15 and 14 can be installed first, then chain can be put on. > Install nut > Install cover > Yank the rear wheel > Adjust chain > Tighten axle nut > Re-check chain. > > That's do-able in 10 minutes, with practice... > > If you do it all the time, nuts won't be seized and stuff won't be stuck together. Cleaning the threads every now and then helps, too. > > > -Jeff Khoury > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "revmaaatin" > To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2010 6:32:29 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Riding in 4th > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , Jeff Khoury wrote: > > > > Richard, > > > > If you're going to swap them around a lot, why go through all the effort of changing the rear sprocket (Removing the wheel, brake, all the bolts holding it on, etc) when you can remove a small cover and change the front? > > > > If you switch to the prevailing torque nut, it's even easier. Takes 10 minutes, tops... including adjusting the chain. > > > > > > > > -Jeff Khoury > > Oh, Baby. You are the man! > 10 minutes--you are a crew chief for a KLR mech team! smile. > > For the rest of us 'plumbers', it will take a little longer-- > One of the original KLR gurus "Devon" from NY (NYsingletrack) used to advertise 20 minutes for a sprocket change; he suggested that he rode 60-100 miles from NYC to a place to ride, change to 14T, etc. Always thought if you are going to that much trouble, change to a 13T. shrug. > Otherwise, I would run the 14T all the time. 2 each his own wonton. > > Sproket change: > Most will need at least 20 minutes, and the first "time trial" will be closer to 30 minutes; later, it might be 20 minutes if you don't lose a bolt, or 'get lost' in counting the number of rotations on the chain tensioner for proper chain/wheel alignment, or cut yourself (my new favorite). > > Hint: > Jeff Saline has an excellent suggestion of indexing the hex nut; mark the top flat with a center punch with one 'punch' mark, and the opposite flat with two punch marks. Helps to track exactly how much you have moved the nut. > (Don't talk to anyone while you are counting the turns; if you do, you will get lost on how many turn you have made. sigh. I have the T-shirt for that bone-head mistake, uh, one in L and one in XL.) NO real foul, it just take longer to check the chain alignment, etc. > > Hint: > Replacing the double nut chain tensioner with a nyloc nut or prevailing torque nut on the pre-08 models makes the chain tensioning a lot faster and simpler. > Note: if using a nyloc nut (nylon center insert locking nut) if you can turn it with your finger past the end of the nut, it is worn out. Throw it away and buy a new one. > > revmaaatin. > > ps. As I recall, Devon and another man "Jake" were the leading edge of the dohickey research/development. Others might comment/remember to what extent. >

[Jud]

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/message/196713 Do I hear an echo in here?

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Powers wrote: > > Sounds like a proper set of handguards would be a worthwhile investment. > -- > Kevin Powers > White Bear Lake, MN > > > On Mon, May 17, 2010 at 7:44 AM, skypilot110 > wrote: > > > > > > > When I bought my 08 I was recovering from kneck surgery to fix a nerve that > > made my left hand's left two fingers not be able to extend. In otherwords I > > couldent get them over the lever without moving my whole hand. The day I > > picked up the bike I cut the end of the clutch lever off and order a new > > one. > > > > The shop had just picked up the Kawasaki brand and the parts system wasnt > > sorted yet. the lever was $3.00 I order another plus two front brake levers. > > The shop owner seeing how cheap they were shelved a bunch thinking they must > > break often. > > > > Kawasaki sorted out the system a few weeks later but let it go and never > > sharged the shop full price. The shop owner likes me now > > > > Skypilot > > > > > > >