for sale, 2001 klr 650

[dooden]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Saltzer" SNIP

> But let me tell you the super de duper, easy, secret, KLR yahoo list > way of doing it. > > With the bike on it's side stand (the way it will be when you walk up > to it 99% of it's lifetime) bend down next to the chain and grab a > rock, stick, cigarette butt, WHATEVER, (to keep chain crap off of > your hands) and push the bottom chain run upwards, straight up to the > back edge of your black chain slide. The rear part of the chain > slide wraps around your swing arm and the farthest rearward edge is > right in the middle of your chain run. With the correct 2 inches of > slack in the chain, in this position, the chain should be easy to > push up to within about 4 or 5mm of the chain slide edge, and then > you should be able to use a bit more force and push the chain up to > just barely touch the chain slide edge. If you can't touch it, it's > too tight. If you can touch it easily, it's too loose. It's just > that simple. > > I have used this method extensively after double double checking with > a ruler that it works correctly. It does, and I find it extremely > easy and quick to check my chain many times a week. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

I just use my boot and push up on the chain but otherwise the same.. Kinda just get a feel by looking at it also. Dooden A15 Green Ape

[Mike Frey]

Well, MrMoose, I adjusted my chain the hard way last night, and checked it your way this morning. I must have done it right; it meets your criteria. So, I'll now use the SecretKLRlist way from now on! Going riding today. Mike A18 Barbie's Lipstick color

> That's not right Deacon. If you had gone through all the trouble to > do it that way, (and that IS a bunch of work to check a chain) and > your countershaft sprocket and rear axle is level with each other, > that is the FARTHEST that the chain is going to need to be extended. > If you still had a whole inch of slack anywhere on the chain at that > point, your chain would be too loose. If you did it that way the > chain should be fairly taught, with a litte "wiggle room" and that's > it. > > But let me tell you the super de duper, easy, secret, KLR yahoo list > way of doing it. > > With the bike on it's side stand (the way it will be when you walk up > to it 99% of it's lifetime) bend down next to the chain and grab a > rock, stick, cigarette butt, WHATEVER, (to keep chain crap off of > your hands) and push the bottom chain run upwards, straight up to the > back edge of your black chain slide. The rear part of the chain > slide wraps around your swing arm and the farthest rearward edge is > right in the middle of your chain run. With the correct 2 inches of > slack in the chain, in this position, the chain should be easy to > push up to within about 4 or 5mm of the chain slide edge, and then > you should be able to use a bit more force and push the chain up to > just barely touch the chain slide edge. If you can't touch it, it's > too tight. If you can touch it easily, it's too loose. It's just > that simple. > > I have used this method extensively after double double checking with > a ruler that it works correctly. It does, and I find it extremely > easy and quick to check my chain many times a week. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ > courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 2004-10-03 1:17:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time, matteeanne@... writes:

> > How fanatical does one need be about their chain? I > try the 2" ruler method, but am never convinced that I > have it dead on. I realize a chain way out of whack > can ruin sprockets, and gouge channels, etc. I just > adjusted it a few days ago, and I check it about once > a week when I wash and lube it. Is this enough? Now > you got me paranoid... lol. Is good nuff good nuff? > --- Keith Saltzer wrote: > >

Checking chain adjustment should be one of those things you do on a fairly regular basis, if not part of you pre-ride check list. Its not that your paranoid about being out-of-adjustment as much as it is you are just keeping your eye on things, which is like 99% of what preventive maintenance is about. WHen I check my chain tension I'm also checking sprocket wear, chain wear, looking at the chain rubbing blocks on the swingarm, the countershaft sprocket cover, the chain guides, the chain adjuster bolts and any thing else my eyes can wander over. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Keith Saltzer]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Frey" wrote:

> Well, MrMoose, I adjusted my chain the hard way last night, and

checked it

> your way this morning. I must have done it right; it meets your

criteria.

> So, I'll now use the SecretKLRlist way from now on! > > Going riding today. > > Mike > A18 Barbie's Lipstick color

So there ya go. It's very simple isn't it. I have a couple more thoughts since reading the other posts on this subject. I said to check the chain this way with the bike on the side stand, but you can do it with it up on a jack or center stand too, or loaded, or whatever. The main thing to remember is that the bike needs to be in neutral with no tension on the chain. After checking my chain frequently this way for a couple of months, I was noticing another way to check it "at a glance". When you look at the chain's position relative to how high or low it comes up behind your white chain guide (mounted under your swingarm, just in front of your axle bolt) you can see where it almost lines up perfectly with the molded indentation of that piece. I have checked my chain so many times now that I can just look at my bike, or others too, and tell if the chain is out of adjustment by only about 1/4 turn. Talk about easy to do. I'm not suggesting that one be "paranoid" about checking your chain, it's just that the more you do it, the longer your chain and sprockets will last, the better the ride will be, the smoother your shifts will be, the less "lurch" you will feel when cracking the throttle back on and/or shutting it down, and the quieter the chain will be when rolling down the road. That's alot of reasons to keep your chain adjusted guys. So to me, having a REALLY easy way of doing it makes it alot less work and leaves no excuse for not checking it. When I ran non o-ring chains on my bike, they needed ALOT of adjusments and checks. But checking my chain often is what I believe allowed me to get 21,500 miles out of an aluminum rear sprocket, that saw 5 of these chains, and multiple 14 & 15 tooth countershaft sprocket changes. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[matteeanne@yahoo.com]

Got it. I have 6500 miles on my A-18, and keep it clean, and clean and oil the chain often. I see zero wear on either sprocket, and the chain looks brand new. When should I swap out the chain for a new one? When should I swap sprockets? --- Keith Saltzer wrote:

> > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Frey" > wrote: > > Well, MrMoose, I adjusted my chain the hard way > last night, and > checked it > > your way this morning. I must have done it right; > it meets your > criteria. > > So, I'll now use the SecretKLRlist way from now > on! > > > > Going riding today. > > > > Mike > > A18 Barbie's Lipstick color > > So there ya go. It's very simple isn't it. I have > a couple more > thoughts since reading the other posts on this > subject. > > I said to check the chain this way with the bike on > the side stand, > but you can do it with it up on a jack or center > stand too, or > loaded, or whatever. The main thing to remember is > that the bike > needs to be in neutral with no tension on the chain. > > After checking my chain frequently this way for a > couple of months, I > was noticing another way to check it "at a glance". > When you look at > the chain's position relative to how high or low it > comes up behind > your white chain guide (mounted under your swingarm, > just in front of > your axle bolt) you can see where it almost lines up > perfectly with > the molded indentation of that piece. I have > checked my chain so > many times now that I can just look at my bike, or > others too, and > tell if the chain is out of adjustment by only about > 1/4 turn. Talk > about easy to do. > > I'm not suggesting that one be "paranoid" about > checking your chain, > it's just that the more you do it, the longer your > chain and > sprockets will last, the better the ride will be, > the smoother your > shifts will be, the less "lurch" you will feel when > cracking the > throttle back on and/or shutting it down, and the > quieter the chain > will be when rolling down the road. > > That's alot of reasons to keep your chain adjusted > guys. So to me, > having a REALLY easy way of doing it makes it alot > less work and > leaves no excuse for not checking it. > > When I ran non o-ring chains on my bike, they needed > ALOT of > adjusments and checks. But checking my chain often > is what I believe > allowed me to get 21,500 miles out of an aluminum > rear sprocket, that > saw 5 of these chains, and multiple 14 & 15 tooth > countershaft > sprocket changes. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at > www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris > Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > > >

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[norespect1964ii]

hi guys (and gals!) this might sound stupid to y'all but the owners manual does not give a good technique on how to check chain tension on a '05 klr! please help???? -no respect

[Stanford Johnsey]

Find you a piece of cardboard about 2"x6". Place the 2" edge against the swing arm midway between the center of the front and rear sprockets. Move the chain up with your fingers as far as it will go and mark the spot where the top of the chain is on the cardboard. Pull the chain down as far as it will go and mark the spot where the top of the chain is on the cardboard. Distance between the two marks should be 50-55mm. An easier way is just to pick up the chain with the toe of your boot. If you can just make the chain touch the bottom of the swing arm at the rubber chain guide the tension is about right. norespect1964ii wrote: hi guys (and gals!) this might sound stupid to y'all but the owners manual does not give a good technique on how to check chain tension on a '05 klr! please help???? -no respect Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Yahoo! Groups Links --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bogdan Swider]

> > > hi guys (and gals!) > > > this might sound stupid to y'all but the owners manual does not give > a good technique on how to check chain tension on a '05 klr! > please help???? > > -no respect >

Time to post this yet again. No less an authority than klr guru Eldon Carl himself speaking "Ex Cathedra" told me my method of judging chain tension must be great since my chains lasted so long. Others use basically the same procedure. Some have reported that KTM recommends it. Here it is: With the bike on it's sidestand & unloaded, find the spot were the bottom run of the chain is closest to the padded front section of the swingarm. You might want to spin the chain around a bit to see if there's a spot where the chain is tighter; if you find such a place do the inspection/adjustment there. Push the bottom run of the chain up. It should almost touch the swingarm. About 1/16" away; 1/8" is too much. Afterwards you can see how much loading the bike changed it's position and go by that when the bike is loaded although I haven't found a significant difference so I never bother. On trips I check it at night while oiling. Bogdan

[Alan L Henderson]

Bogdan Swider wrote:

> chains lasted so long. Others use basically the same procedure. Some have > reported that KTM recommends it. Here it is: With the bike on it's sidestand > & unloaded, find the spot were the bottom run of the chain is closest to the > padded front section of the swingarm. You might want to spin the chain > > Bogdan >

When you push the chain up do it gently, don't push with all your might or even half of it. When I got my first bike in 1970 I followed directions exactly, and when I went for a ride I realized the chain was bowstring tight when ridden. I had put my fingers on the swing arm and pushed up with my thumbs thinking they wanted ALL the slack out. Wrong! Just like so many other things in life, don't over do it. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

[Bogdan Swider]

> When you push the chain up do it gently, don't push with all your might > or even half of it.

Good point, Alan. I should have mentioned that. Also, err on the side of being too loose rather than too tight. Bogdan