seeking wotl-jake's 1st klr valve inspection/adjustment

[ryan_1978_21]

Yep, I've been wanting one of these for at least 15 years, and I finally have one! I've been riding a '68 CT90 all of my life, and for some reason this 650 feels like I've been riding it just as long. This is my first clutch bike also, and I'm as happy as a kid at Christmas! I've had this thing for three days, put 15 miles on it, and now the engine is apart as I wait for the doohickey kit to come in from Arrowhead. Glad to be here! -Ryan in Ohio

[Jeff Saline]

Ryan, Welcome to the group. I'm looking forward to hearing about your adventures, both traveling and mechanical. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT <><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 11:07:46 -0000 "ryan_1978_21" writes:

> Yep, I've been wanting one of these for at least 15 years, and I > finally have one! I've been riding a '68 CT90 all of my life, and > for some reason this 650 feels like I've been riding it just as > long. This is my first clutch bike also, and I'm as happy as a kid > at Christmas! I've had this thing for three days, put 15 miles on > it, and now the engine is apart as I wait for the doohickey kit to > come in from Arrowhead. Glad to be here! > -Ryan in Ohio

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[dooden]

CT90 .. is that the one with folding handlebars and gas tank under the seat ? Man we had one as a kid, father bought it thinking the sisters might ride a auto. But turns out my brother and I abused that bike, it took jumps almost as good as a KLR was touch as nails, low range we used it to tow things, pull a dune buggy (ok mud buggy) off piles of stuff we got it hung up on.. that bike just kept going and going. Welcome Aboard Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "ryan_1978_21" wrote: > > Yep, I've been wanting one of these for at least 15 years, and I finally have one! I've been riding a '68 CT90 all of my life, and for some reason this 650 feels like I've been riding it just as long. This is my first clutch bike also, and I'm as happy as a kid at Christmas! I've had this thing for three days, put 15 miles on it, and now the engine is apart as I wait for the doohickey kit to come in from Arrowhead. Glad to be here! > -Ryan in Ohio >

[mark ward]

[Don Montgomery]

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, mark ward wrote:

> > Hey all (I have a feeling if any one knows it mite be Jeff.) > When camping there is the issue of SNAKES and other critters wanting to come in your warm dry tent. and under it.

SNIP

> Mark (west Mich.)

A higway patrol man warned one biker sleeping at a rest stop to sleep on the picnic table, not on the ground, under the table. Local folk lore/myth suggested that snake would crawl into your sleeping bag with you to keep warm. shrug. Always check your shoes for scorpions and such. During my 08' GDR ride, after a particularily trying day in the GREAT BASIN, WY, John's clutch has failed (death by mud), its now dark and we were up to our eyeballs in mud. We elected to just set up one tent--the Penicle 3xta--between the sage-heads. The wind is blowing about 25mph and we are finally settling in to sleep. Some time after--lights out: John: "Wake up, there is something scratching at the tent." Martin: "Yeah I hear it"--(goes back to sleep) J. Wake up! There is something scratching at the tent! M. Yeah, you are right. I turn on a flash light J. What are you doing? M. Puttting in ear plugs J. Why? M. I turn out the flashlight, replying, "So I can't hear you scream when 'it' gets inside the tent!" I slept soundly. John, ah, no so well. revmaaatin.

[sh8knj8kster]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote:

> > Jake, > > It makes sense to me to make the clearance right. Your valves have had > about 10,000 smiles to settle in. It might take another 10,000 smiles to > close that intake valve another 0.001". > > The reason you must remove the cam chain tensioner body is so you can > reset the ratchet mechanism. Pulling the center bolt removes tension > from the ratchet mechanism but doesn't allow it to be reset. If you take > a good look at the mechanism while it's out I think you'll see what I'm > talking about. You'll have to hold up the little block while pushing the > tensioner back into the body. When you install the spring and center > bolt the spring should push the tensioner away from the body. Try it in > your hand before you install it to watch it work. > > Once you reinstall the tensioner (after you've reset it) you install the > spring and center bolt. Listen carefully to hear the tensioner extend > from the spring pressure. If you don't hear the clicks from the ratchet > do it again. If you still don't hear the clicks of the ratchet pull the > body and inspect and test it to make sure the spring can move the > tensioner. Then reset it, reinstall and try again. If you still don't > hear the clicks of the ratchet mechanism when you install the spring and > center bolt either get help, turn down the radio, turn up your hearing > aid or clean your ears. : ) > > If I was making a gasket I'd use heavy scissors on the outside and an > exacto knife on the center hole. If the hole really needed to be round > I'd consider making a punch out of some copper pipe if it was about the > correct diameter. > > Best, > > Jeff > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT >

~~~Jeff, A couple of things here....As I said, I have already ordered the right shim from Fred. that just makes sense to have it 'within spec' before closing it up Secondly, I mommied out and went to the local dealer today (Monday) to purchase the OEM cam chain tensioner gasket. They had it in stock. I'll put a thin film of grease on both sides of the gasket before installing.... perhaps that will enable it to come apart next time w/o ripping Now about the cam chain tensioner body coming out, if it is or isn't a good idea...I like to think it's a good idea. I had an off list discussion with someone here that has been around KLR's for a long time who suggested that you can remove the cams and the chain for that matter, all without removing the tensioner body. This person said you only need to remove the bolt and spring. Perhaps you can, I wont argue that, but except for the gasket issue (not having one on hand when you need it), I really don't see anything wrong with removing the entire cam chain tensioner I think the main reeason I don't mind removing it for inspection...once upon a time I used to drive a 1972 Honda 600 sedan (air-cooled 600 cc parallel vertical twin). I bought it used, it jumped timing (bent at least 1 valve). After investigation, I found the culprit to be the hydraulic acutated cam chain tensioner. It gave up the ghost. Long story short, I rebuilt the entire motor. My first actually. Bought a new one piece crank from Honda (took 6 weeks shipping to get it from Japan (in 1979), rebored cylinders 1st over, new pistons, had the head re-worked, new carb, shimmed the tranny back to spec, new cam chain tensioner, on and on. Anyways, that cam chain tensioner needed good oil to create enough pressure to tension the cam chain. Since those were considered disposable cars back then (at $1500 a pop), and most motorists that bought them weren't familiar with the need to change oil frequently in a air cooled motorcycle engine, a lot of those motors were jumping time so, ever since then, I'm mindful of cam chain tensioners, and I don't mind R&Ring them for inspection. That's my story and I'm going to stick with it=:-) Jake Reddick Fla. "Given the remarkable growth in support for gays and lesbians, I think there is a chance that someday recumbents might be accepted" RAAM rider, 2005 http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/

> On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 19:56:09 -0000 "sh8knj8kster" > writes: > > > >~~~~Jeff, The more I thought about it, the more it made sense to me > > to just order the next larger shim and call it done. I think in the > > grand scheme of things, being .001" over in this 10 K mile motor, I > > probably wouldn't do any harm leaving what I have there in place as > > in all likelihood, it will tighten itself in spec sooner rather than > > later. But, as anal as I can sometimes be, I may just worry too > > much so I'll install the next fatter shim and you'll know the next > > valve clearance inspection, I'll need to re-install the 235 shim I'm > > going to remove for this inspection=:-) I've already phoned Fred > > and he is sending me the 240 shim...I'm looking at it this way, I > > have the luxury of not having to skip doing it right > > > > > > About making a gasket, as I replied to Thom, I have 1 mm gasket > > material, and I have liquid gasket (Copper RTV). the only thing I > > have against making a gasket is, the material I have is pretty > > stiff, cutting the outside will be simple using scissors but making > > the center hole...I spose I could use my exacto knife...had it out > > recently for something else, would hate to get RTV into the motor > > so, I am leaning towards cobbling up a gasket > > > > > > For sure, if I make my own gasket, I'll make it so I will be happy > > enough with my results, I wont be afraid to leave it in there. > > Having said that, I'm having Fred's Kawi dealer drop ship me a > > couple new OEM gaskets...which leads into a discussion as to why > > remove the body in the first place and why not only remove the > > center bolt and spring of the cam chai9n tensioner only. the one > > good argument I can make for removing the entire tensioner is, being > > able to have the part in your hand to verify it is all intact and in > > working order. How anal is that?=:-) > > > > > > > > Jake >