[dsn_klr650] parts for sale.

[doc_wm]

Looking @ some lowering links. Any suggestions on what to look for pro or con. and what do you need to do for front end ?

[Samuel Hudson]

Most usually drop the forks in the triple clamp --sam hudson, san antonio tx.

[Norm Keller]

I went that route and removed mine because I'm too aggressive off road. I really encourage you to try modifying the seat as it will come down by 1 1/4" with little trouble. I simply pulled the seat and pried out the staples holding the cover in place; took a bread knife and sliced two wedges from each side to narrow the seat foam. The wedges are 14" long and 1 1/2" wide at the centre tapering to about 1" wide at each end. The bottom edge of each wedge simply follows the seat pan, leaving about 1/8" of foam past the seat pan. Following that I simply took 1 1/4" off the top of the seat from front to back except that the front was tapered upward so it followed the stock profile. I did this just before a 780 km back road trip and am completely pleased with the result. IMO the KLR seat foam is too thick for the density used which makes the seat uncomfortable for long runs. A sheep skin of other overlay makes the seat a bit firmer and much better. Removing that 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" of foam was the best comfort improvement made. The bike handles much better in gnarly stuff with more ground clearance and suspension travel. The stock vinyl cover goes back on with a heavy duty stapler. If you are nervous about cutting the foam, just get some foam from an upholstery shop and remove the cover. You can cut the upholstery shop foam to a lower profile and put the vinyl cover on with duct tape to try it out for a while. I'll bet you don't go back! My lowering links are for sale. If you're in the Fraser Valley, drop by that try my bike. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mike Peplinski]

Depends on why you are considering them. For off road they suck because they reduce suspension travel. For street handling they are great. If you are heavy or plan on a lot of 2 up riding it changes the geometry on the rear shock so you have to dial it up one setting to keep from bottoming out. I have the 2" lowering links on mine and love the change. I prefer to stand flat footed at a stop and don't like the extreme leg swing mount that a full suspension requires. There may be a handling advantage due to a general lowering of the COG but some debate that. I also lowered the front forks about 1-1/2" to equalize the bike. I'm glad I did it. You will need a lower stand too.

>From: "doc_wm" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] lowering links >Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2006 04:13:54 -0000 > >Looking @ some lowering links. Any suggestions on what to look for pro >or con. and what do you need to do for front end ? > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > >

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[usa1911a1]

And the Lord said, I will build a motorcycle for the tall and the large among you, and I will make it a bargain for the soul. I will call it KLR for "kinda large rider" and it will come from a faraway land in great multitudes. There shall be hardship, it will be born with an original shortcoming called doohicky. Smart men will pray for tech days and bless those who minister to them. People will wonder if it is fish or fowl, arguing it's virtues for generations. Wise men will understand from whence it came and what it can do. The competition will try to copy it's strengths but fail. False gods from Germany with boxer engines will imitate but cannot compete for the heart of the common man. People will doubt it's claims but become believers in their own time. And it shall reign for ever and ever growing in wisdom and farkles, and the fairing will point the way of the road less traveled. Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA

----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Peplinski" To: ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 7:54 AM Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] lowering links > Depends on why you are considering them. For off road they suck because they > reduce suspension travel. For street handling they are great. If you are > heavy or plan on a lot of 2 up riding it changes the geometry on the rear > shock so you have to dial it up one setting to keep from bottoming out. I > have the 2" lowering links on mine and love the change. I prefer to stand > flat footed at a stop and don't like the extreme leg swing mount that a full > suspension requires. There may be a handling advantage due to a general > lowering of the COG but some debate that. I also lowered the front forks > about 1-1/2" to equalize the bike. I'm glad I did it. You will need a lower > stand too. > > > >From: "doc_wm" > >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] lowering links > >Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2006 04:13:54 -0000 > > > >Looking @ some lowering links. Any suggestions on what to look for pro > >or con. and what do you need to do for front end ? > > > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: > >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Stay up-to-date with your friends through the Windows Live Spaces friends > list. > http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp0070000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mk > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > >

[fasteddiecopeman]

Doc, Make your own! Start with 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 7 1/4" 6061 aluminum (2 pieces) and a 15mm or 19/32" (what I use) drill bit. Clamp the 2 together and drill holes both ends on 5.75" centers (for a 2" drop) and slightly round each end around the holes. Then RAISE your forks a like amount in the triple trees. I made 2", then 1 1/2" drops and ran them for around 20,000 kms with no problems. Stock links are 6.125" OAL with holes on 5" centers, so interpolate for other lowering amounts. Cheers, Ed Pro - you can 'flat-foot' at a street light. Con - you WILL bottom in big whoops!

[Blake Sobiloff]

On 12/16/06, usa1911a1 wrote:

> There shall be hardship, it will be born with an original > shortcoming called doohicky.

Wow, is that like original sin? -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> San Jose, CA (USA)

[Bob Schulte]

You broke the "code". By the responses I see on the list I guess I may have offended some people...story of my life though. Merry Christmas if it is appropriate and Seasons Greetings if it is not. Capt. Bob Durham, CT USA 2006 KLR http://seniorbiker.blogspot.com/

----- Original Message ----- From: "Blake Sobiloff" To: "usa1911a1" Cc: ; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>; "Mike Peplinski" Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 9:40 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] lowering links > On 12/16/06, usa1911a1 wrote: >> There shall be hardship, it will be born with an original >> shortcoming called doohicky. > > Wow, is that like original sin? > -- > Blake Sobiloff > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> > San Jose, CA (USA) > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > >

[Jacobus De Bruyn]

Today I put on the lowering links, a breeze. But, aahhh...as always, something interesting happened. The shock absorber triangle shaped lever could not be removed from the engine. Apparently the shot needle bearings had travelled partly out of the lever into the housing where the big pivot bolt with the two plastic caps lives. I did some creative banging with screwdrivers and a hammer, laid down flat on a burlap sack, got a flashlite, felt it with pieces of hacksaw blade, drank coffee, stared at the Clymer page, but all to no avail. So I decided to leave it alone. I pumped about a pound of moly-grease into the hole, and buttoned it all up again. Now the new bearings from Fred are freezing their balls off in the freezer. Well, not balls, needles. Whenever my wife starts cooking without her glasses on, they may end up in the soup, chew carefully. So the KLR makes my life exciting and rewarding, without a boring moment. Now I will scoop up all the tools, and get ready for my real job. Any comments that may be helpful, or funny? Or sarcastic? A combination of the above will be appreciated. Jake. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make Yahoo! your homepage. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

[Jim Tegler]

Hi Jeff, I have had an experience with the one inch lowering links you may want to know about. The swingarm and the muffler came into contact, and it felt like your tire is soft and you hit the rim against a stone. When riding alone, this was hardly noticable. Two days ago I thought to go to my swimming hole with my grown up son, two 6 foot plus guys, with some tools, let s say 400 lbs altogether. The muffler hit hard on the bleeder valve on the caliper, making a sharp dent into the muffler, not a hole yet. The automatic bleeder valve bent a little, and I replaced it, I got two sets from Fred. Also the muffler started to cut into the plastic brake hose guide. So we turned back, not knowing what was the matter, but knowing something was very wrong. At home in the shade of a tree I turned the preload adjuster bolt three or four times to the right, to max. The numbers cannot be seen. But the rebound damper adjuster is not working properly, you can turn it by hand, no clicks are felt or heard, it just spins and spins. After the adjustment of the spring preload, we tried again with two guys on the bike, jumping up and down, and it was better, no more banging the muffler against the swing arm, it stayed clear abt. one inch, but we decided to officially declare it a one man s bike, and I went off alone. I don t know what s wrong with the rebound damper adjuster, seems pretty shitty stuff. I have no clue what it is supposed to do, or how it works. Anyhow, the bike works ok for me, and I get into the boondocks where I want to go. I just tell you this for your information. The petcock swivelpipe that connects to the fuel line was weeping, and when I checked it, it came out, so I epoxied it back in, working ok, no more swivel. I downgraded the petcock to just a normal valve, no more vacuum system. Works ok. I am getting tired of motorcycle talk, I just want to ride, but the help and info received from this page has been bike-saving, so all guys, thank you. And have another year with many miles and few flats. Jake. Howdy, _________________________________________________________________ Read what Santa`s been up to! For all the latest, visit asksantaclaus.spaces.live.com! http://asksantaclaus.spaces.live.com/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]