[dsn_klr650] parts for sale.

[eric20purdue]

I would just like to comment that I bought some lowering links from Happy Trails and they work great. The link to the item is here: http://happy-trail.com/productinfo.aspx? productid=176&categoryid=0&startpage=1 I am 5'10", so I got the 2" lowering links and have experienced a significant improvement. My kickstand still works with no modification (it used to lean pretty far) and I am able to handle much better offroad with a better ground reach. There does not seem to be any drawbacks as the handling is identical and the shock bottoms out way before the back wheel hits anything. Also, the links extend only about 1" below the engine, so I don't consider that any problem even for rugged offroading. If you are say 5'11" or shorter, I highly recommend them.

[denvowell@aol.com]

I would like to lower my bike about 1 1/2 inches. Can the dog bones have a section cut out and welded back togather? Would this be strong enough ? I want to do this right but cheaply. Dennis A18 the Big Red 1 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Devon]

denvowell@... wrote:

>I would like to lower my bike about 1 1/2 inches. Can the dog bones have a >section cut out and welded back togather? >

No, because that would raise the bike not lower it. You need longer links to lower the suspension. Since links are around $50-$75 and basically bolt on in 15 minutes, tampering with the stock ones would be unwise. Devon

[Ron Crandell]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, denvowell@a... wrote:

> I would like to lower my bike about 1 1/2 inches. Can the dog bones

have a

> section cut out and welded back togather? Would this be strong

enough ? I want

> to do this right but cheaply. > Dennis A18 the Big Red 1 > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Keep in mind, if you cut the dog-bones, what will happen if you want to go back to stock?? Put out a request for used ones, sometimes folks are selling them here. I wouldn't suggest doing something like this on the cheap... not a good thing to have break on you somewhere. Of course, IMHO... Ron in MN

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

In order to lower via lowering links, the length of the link must be increased. Shortening the link will raise the height. As for cutting and welding- I wouldn't do it because there's no knowing what funny mix of stuff went into the alloy. On the other hand, what's the worst that can happen if a link breaks? If that doesn't have your attention ........ If I had some time making a longer set of links wouldn't be that big a deal. The stock length centre to centre of the bolt holes = 5 inches My Performance Design 70901 links are 5 1/2 inches. The front was dropped 1 1/8" to increase rake and hopefully add stability since I ride 95% pavement and the rest on logging roads. Too many things have interfered with the plan to drop the front to 1 1/2" to see what difference occurs. The reason I originally dropped the front only 1 1/8" rather than 1 1/2" was that I expected that there would be a decrease in wheel base length and so expected a slight decrease in stability/increased responsiveness. Paul Pico (C17) is much smarter than me and pointed out that the wheel base would increase more due to the rear swing arm moving to the horizontal than it would decrese due to the decrease in front fork tube length. Hmmm, I said........ One caution: if lowering by links make sure you check the chain adjustment before you get excited and do a test ride as my new C18 tightened the chain wayyyyy to tight when the links were installed. Output shaft bearings are reported not to like that! HIH Norm

[Ron Crandell]

> > One caution: if lowering by links make sure you check the chain

adjustment

> before you get excited and do a test ride as my new C18 tightened

the chain

> wayyyyy to tight when the links were installed. Output shaft

bearings are

> reported not to like that! > > HIH > > Norm

Hmmmm, I would say that if your chain adjustment was too tight when you lowered the bike by ONLY changing the links, then the chain was too tight before. The pivot point of the swingarm didn't change, so the tension wouldn't have changed either. AND you are correct, it is BAAAADDDD to run the chain in too tight of a configuration. Make sure that the chain tension is checked at the tightest point of the arc, then you can see what it looks like at rest for future reference. I can reach down and pull up on the lower run of the chain and just touch the slider on the swingarm.. this is after testing it at full tension... Just my $.02 for a Thursday. Ron in MN

[Arden Kysely]

I'd look into cutting away some seat padding before compromising the suspension components. Or bite the bullet and get some Kouba links. If one of those dog bones snaps at the wrong time you could be in a world of hurt. I'm a towering 5-feet-8 and have just learned to live with the KLR's height. My DR-Z is even taller. Thicker soled shoes help some. __Arden

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, denvowell@a... wrote: > I would like to lower my bike about 1 1/2 inches. Can the dog bones have a > section cut out and welded back togather? Would this be strong enough ? I want > to do this right but cheaply. > Dennis A18 the Big Red 1 > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Judson D. Jones]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "April Neave & Norm Keller" wrote:

> The reason I originally dropped the front only 1 1/8" rather than 1 1/2" was > that I expected that there would be a decrease in wheel base length and so > expected a slight decrease in stability/increased responsiveness. Paul Pico > (C17) is much smarter than me and pointed out that the wheel base would > increase more due to the rear swing arm moving to the horizontal than it > would decrese due to the decrease in front fork tube length. Hmmm, I > said......

.Hmmm, I say. I thimk he's wrong about this. The change in swing arm angle will have a negligible effect on wheelbase. Dropping the forks an inch and a half will shorten the wheelbase a half or 3/4 inch. (I'll go out on a limb here and say that the sine of the rake angle x 1 1/2" should give you the exact figure, but I could be all wrong, since I haven't done any triid for about 40 years).

> One caution: if lowering by links make sure you check the chain adjustment > before you get excited and do a test ride as my new C18 tightened the chain > wayyyyy to tight when the links were installed. Output shaft bearings are > reported not to like that! >

If the chain were adjusted correctly in the first place, this would not have happened.

[ridinhard]

Where is the best or cheapest place to buy lowering links,, Thanks in advance, It looks like I may be getting a 05 model as dealer can't find a new 04 in our area

[dooden]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "ridinhard" wrote:

> Where is the best or cheapest place to buy lowering links,, > Thanks in advance, It looks like I may be getting a 05 model as > dealer can't find a new 04 in our area

http://www.klr650.com/shLowLinkit.htm is one source. $90 http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/KLR_650_lowering_links.htm Yet another for about $90 http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html Yet another for $90 Appears pretty much pick a supplier, the last one is Fred @ Arrowhead Motorsports in Moab, being he has super quick service and fair pricing I would suggest him. But its a free country pick the one that floats your boat. Dooden A15 Green Ape