overheating after freezing weather

[Volker Traudt]

I am sure this is a possibility. What strikes me as strange is that the radiator is cold to the touch; I take that as an indication, that the coolant is not circulating through the radiator. Volker -----Original Message----- From: sentto-488385-107971-1094146055-vtraudt=compuserve.com@.... com [mailto:sentto-488385-107971-1094146055-vtraudt=compuserve.com@... s.yahoo.com] On Behalf Of rsanders30117 Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 1:27 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Overheating Can't overheating be related to a warped/leaking head gasket? Since you had to pull the head this is a suspicious coincidence. --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Volker Traudt" wrote:

> I noticed that the engine on my 1987 KLR 250 is extremely

overheating.

> In the past, the temp gauge stayed in middle in almost all driving > situations, the fan only came on during slow steep first gear

narrow

> trial riding. > > After I had the cylinder head off to replace a bent valve (not 100% > sure if it first occurred right after it), I noticed that the

engine

> gets really hot. I replaced all fluids (oil and coolant), filled up > the radiator to max, and the overflow cannister. Stilll overheating. > I first thought this is due to the fan relay that went bad ($80),

so

> I replaced it with a manual switch, and always turn the fan on. > > Yesterday, the engine got so hot during very careful riding (not

more

> than 4000 rpm, no acceleration), that the gauge went past red way > over the letter "H" (fan running all the time). I noticed that the > radiator cap is cool to the touch, which leads me to believe, that > the coolant is not circulating. > > If the group agreas, is there an easy way to check the circulation? > Could it be blocked cooling channel (from when I took the head off)? > Could it be the water pump being blocked or broken? > > Any suggestions, comments are welcome. > > Thanks. > > Volker

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[Doug Herr]

On Thu, 2 Sep 2004, Volker Traudt wrote:

> I am sure this is a possibility. What strikes me as strange is that the > radiator is cold to the touch; I take that as an indication, that the > coolant is not circulating through the radiator.

Then the thermostat is the first thing to confirm. The pump and lines should be next I would think. -- Doug Herr doug@...

[Stuart Mumford]

> -----Original Message----- > If the group agreas, is there an easy way to check the circulation? > Could it be blocked cooling channel (from when I took the head off)? > Could it be the water pump being blocked or broken?

Maybe the hoses are on the wrong outlets? Not familiar with the 250, but it's possible on the 650, to hook the hoses up backwards. To check flow, start the bike with the radiator cap off (with a cool motor of course), stick your finger in there and feel for flow. Here agfain, not familiar with the 250, but I know this technique works on auto radiators. Like has been said, you're not getting flow, and since you have had the head off, it is possible you accidentally blocked one of the coolant passages on reinstallation; is there any way to install the head gasket upside down or 180 degrees off and block one? Good Luck CA Stu

[john W]

Volker, Look at the cylinder head section of your bike in the kawasaki web site and you'll see the thermostat.... --- Volker Traudt wrote:

> If you are referring to the temp sensor that is > mounted next to the spark > plug in the cylinder: How can it be installed upside > down? > I don't think I ever removed it, but would like to > check. > > If you are referring to the temp sensor that is > mounted on the bottom right > side of the radiator: Can it be installed wrong? I > did not take this one out > either, just found that by putting on of the leads > against ground that the > fan turns on (which it did not, even when the engine > temp gauge was in the > red). > > If neither is applicable: Where is the thermostat > that you are referring to > located, and how can I check the right installed > position? > > Thanks. > > Volker > > > -----Original Message----- > From: moabmc@... [mailto:moabmc@...] > > Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 10:09 AM > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com; Volker Traudt > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Overheating > > > Think you might have got the thermostat upside down? > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Volker Traudt" > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 7:50 AM > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Overheating > > > > I noticed that the engine on my 1987 KLR 250 is > extremely overheating. > > > > After I had the cylinder head off to replace a > bent valve (not 100% > > sure if it first occurred right after it), I > noticed that the engine > > gets really hot. > > > > I noticed that the > > radiator cap is cool to the touch, which leads me > to believe, that > > the coolant is not circulating. > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at > www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris > Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > >

===== Sammamish, WA '94 klr650 '03 ZR-7S '86 klr250 Next one -> zrx1200 KLR 650 FAQ's http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html _______________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter now. http://promotions.yahoo.com/goldrush

[squasher_1]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Volker Traudt" wrote:

> I noticed that the engine on my 1987 KLR 250 is extremely

overheating.

> In the past, the temp gauge stayed in middle in almost all driving > situations, the fan only came on during slow steep first gear

narrow

> trial riding. > > After I had the cylinder head off to replace a bent valve (not 100% > sure if it first occurred right after it), I noticed that the

engine

> gets really hot. I replaced all fluids (oil and coolant), filled up > the radiator to max, and the overflow cannister. Stilll overheating. > I first thought this is due to the fan relay that went bad ($80),

so

> I replaced it with a manual switch, and always turn the fan on. > > Yesterday, the engine got so hot during very careful riding (not

more

> than 4000 rpm, no acceleration), that the gauge went past red way > over the letter "H" (fan running all the time). I noticed that the > radiator cap is cool to the touch, which leads me to believe, that > the coolant is not circulating. > > If the group agreas, is there an easy way to check the circulation? > Could it be blocked cooling channel (from when I took the head off)? > Could it be the water pump being blocked or broken? > > Any suggestions, comments are welcome. > > Thanks. > > Volker

I would say your thermostat is stuck closed. or your impeller isnt turning. The easiest thing to do is. on the right side top of the motor/head you will see a hose coming out and going to the radiator. Remove the three screws that hold the hose to the head and pull the hose and small thermostat housing away from the head. remove the thermostat. put some silicone sealer around the mounting surface of the houseing and reinstall the housing with the 3 screws (leave the thermostat out). fill the radiator with water and leave the cap off. start the bike. see if you can see water movement. most likely some water will come gushing out the top of the radiator. if you see water movement, then you know your impeller/water pump is working. turn the motor off. will the radiator with water. put the cap on. Take it for a ride. watch the gauge. if the gauge now reads normal, the problem was the thermostat. leave it out or buy a new one. you could also have gotten some silicone sealer stuck in the thrmostat when you rebuilt the head. or you put the thermostat in backwards. the spring goes into the head

[rsanders30117]

On days >=85F & cruising along about 55 m/h, my KLR650 A14 temperature indicator stays about 1/3 off of cold. Of course, when stopped, it creeps up & the fan comes on at about gauge indication. To improve cooling I've installed DynoJet stage 1 (richer mixture runs cooler) & have I improved the sealing on the left side of the radiator to force more air through the cooling system. --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, WILLAM GILMORE wrote:

> I bought my A12 used last spring and had everything gone over by a

well respected Kawi mechanic. My bike runs excellent except it has a tendancy to overheat on warm days (80 degrees and above). It never hits the red-zone but gets close to it. So far the only thing I've done is turn down the idle when it starts to heat up too much.

> > Any suggestions how to keep the needle in straight up and down? > > Fred Hink wrote: > The thermostat is part no. 49054-1033 and can be seen at: > http://www.buykawasaki.com/scripts/ImgServ.exe/convert?

ilFN=e:\epcimages\C12\C1229\E1111.TIF&ilIF=P&ilSC=25&ilIV=0&ilBR=0

> > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Volker Traudt" > To: ; > Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 8:42 AM > Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] Overheating > > > > If you are referring to the temp sensor that is mounted next to

the spark

> > plug in the cylinder: How can it be installed upside down? > > I don't think I ever removed it, but would like to check. > > > > If you are referring to the temp sensor that is mounted on the

bottom

> right > > side of the radiator: Can it be installed wrong? I did not take

this one

> out > > either, just found that by putting on of the leads against ground

that the

> > fan turns on (which it did not, even when the engine temp gauge

was in the

> > red). > > > > If neither is applicable: Where is the thermostat that you are

referring

> to > > located, and how can I check the right installed position? > > > > Thanks. > > > > Volker > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: moabmc@c... [mailto:moabmc@c...] > > Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 10:09 AM > > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com; Volker Traudt > > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Overheating > > > > > > Think you might have got the thermostat upside down? > > > > Fred > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/cmc.html > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Volker Traudt" > > To: > > Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2004 7:50 AM > > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Overheating > > > > > > > I noticed that the engine on my 1987 KLR 250 is extremely

overheating.

> > > > > > After I had the cylinder head off to replace a bent valve (not

100%

> > > sure if it first occurred right after it), I noticed that the

engine

> > > gets really hot. > > > > > > I noticed that the > > > radiator cap is cool to the touch, which leads me to believe,

that

> > > the coolant is not circulating. > > > > > > > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List

FAQ

> courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List

FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html

> Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

Someone posted: On days >=85F & cruising along about 55 m/h, my KLR650 A14 temperature indicator stays about 1/3 off of cold. Of course, when stopped, it creeps up & the fan comes on at about gauge indication. To improve cooling I've installed DynoJet stage 1 (richer mixture runs cooler) & have I improved the sealing on the left side of the radiator to force more air through the cooling system. You may wish to check the radiator cores to see if they are chalked up internally. A hard chalk-like build-up is typical in cooling systems, particularly if the coolant has not been changed frequently enough. Removing the rad cap and draining the collant down a bit should allow you to see if the core tubes are clear. If in doubt a rad shop will boil a rad out quite cheaply which is a more effective option than the canned cleaners supplier in parts stores. HIH Norm

[sidemma]

27K on my KLR and the temp gauge has never gone past center even under the warmest conditions. Today, first ride after replacing the clutch plates (quite cool out I might add), I noticed the gauge was much further into the red than normal. Towards the end of the ride it was reading 3/4 or at/near the "H" when slow or stopped. Also, the fan never kicked on, I'm assuming anyway, with earplugs and helmet it's hard to hear. Wondering if this is coincidental or related to the clutch work I just did. First places to look? Mick

[Stanford Johnsey]

I'd do the easy/cheap stuff first. Is the coolant tank at the proper level? You might check (carefully) to see if the coolant is hot in the radiator itself. My fan normally comes on when the guage read about half. You can do a quick check of the fan by shorting the lead that attaches to the "switch" on the bottom left of the radiator to ground. If the fan and relay are working properly the fan should come on. sidemma wrote: 27K on my KLR and the temp gauge has never gone past center even under the warmest conditions. Today, first ride after replacing the clutch plates (quite cool out I might add), I noticed the gauge was much further into the red than normal. Towards the end of the ride it was reading 3/4 or at/near the "H" when slow or stopped. Also, the fan never kicked on, I'm assuming anyway, with earplugs and helmet it's hard to hear. Wondering if this is coincidental or related to the clutch work I just did. First places to look? Mick List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Yahoo! Groups Links __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Brad]

While the previous posts may well be the problem, particulary the air in the system, the clutch replacement does require the removal and re- install of the water pump impeller. This part, the shaft in particular is prone to breakage if even slightly over torque, I would check this out. Brad Centralia

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "sidemma" wrote: > > > 27K on my KLR and the temp gauge has never gone past center even under the warmest > conditions. Today, first ride after replacing the clutch plates (quite cool out I might add), I > noticed the gauge was much further into the red than normal. Towards the end of the ride > it was reading 3/4 or at/near the "H" when slow or stopped. Also, the fan never kicked on, > I'm assuming anyway, with earplugs and helmet it's hard to hear. Wondering if this is > coincidental or related to the clutch work I just did. First places to look? > > > Mick