battery?/starter? issue

[swampyankee45]

How is Devon? How is Mike? Do they ever post? the search doesn't point to anything recent. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

> > On Mon, Nov 14, 2005 at 01:22:26PM -0800, TH wrote: > > I posted earlier about this, found one of my stock > > ones sheared, replaced it with Fred's kit and all was > > good. Being paranoid, I then went and checked the > > bolts on my wife's TTR, which of course had one broken > > off. So while trying to get the broken piece out I > > broke off the carbide screw extractor. None of my > > bits would touch it, went to a tool supply house and > > bought a $30 carbide bit that supposedly was the > > hardest made. > > Oh, you're singing my song all right. I too am a member of the > incompetent fraternity of those who break carbide extractors and

taps.

> > I bet it's sheared off at such a funky angle that you can't center-

punch

> it, too? Mine was. > > A combination of Mike's and Devon's advice saved my butt last

time. Get

> yourself a bunch of dremel grinding bits -- the little bullet-

shaped pink

> ones and the long conical orange ones. Also, get several packs of

cheap

> carbide-tipped masonry bits a couple sizes smaller than the hole

you're

> trying to get the bolt out of. > > Alternate grinding with differently shaped bits -- the conical bit

will

> give you a nice centered hole, too -- with drilling with the

masonry

> bits. You'll ruin the bits quick but they only cost a buck or so

each.

> > Eventually you will get it out. Wear earplugs or you will have

some

> nasty hearing damage sneak up on you from the hours you're going to > spend on this task. >

[moflow98]

I would like to upgrade the 10.9 subframe bolts to the 12.9s. Can anyone tell me what size they are? Thanks

[transalp 1]

After reading about the inadequacy of the rear subframe bolts and the fixes available, what's the consensus on this scenario?: The SW-Motech engine guards have a heavy steel spacer that fits into the recesses of the upper subfarme bolt holes. The ones on my particular bike were a near press fit - no looseness at all when in place, even without the bolts installed. The new bolts that came with the guards are grade 10 over the OEM grade 8 bolts. Are there any incidences of this setup breaking? Also, are the original lower subframe bolts still an issue with the 08'-09' models? If yes, is it just a simple matter of replacing them with grade 10 bolts,too? If I have to go that route, I am looking at getting slightly longer bolts and attaching self locking nuts on the protruding end as a redundancy and a way of making sure they stay tight. eddie [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Harry Seifert]

Eddie, Eagle makes two different, vastly upgraded subframe bolt sets. I"ve got them on my '99 and '06 and haven't had a problem since installation in '02 and '06. Whichever setup you go with, be sure to use RED Loctite.

> [Original Message] > From: transalp 1 > To: KLR650 list DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Date: 6/19/2009 10:18:24 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] subframe bolts > > After reading about the inadequacy of the rear subframe bolts and the

fixes available, what's the consensus on this scenario?:

> The SW-Motech engine guards have a heavy steel spacer that fits into the

recesses of the upper subfarme bolt holes.

> The ones on my particular bike were a near press fit - no looseness at

all when in place, even without the bolts installed.

> The new bolts that came with the guards are grade 10 over the OEM grade 8

bolts. Are there any incidences of this setup breaking?

> > Also, are the original lower subframe bolts still an issue with the

08'-09' models? If yes, is it just a simple matter of replacing them with

> grade 10 bolts,too? If I have to go that route, I am looking at getting

slightly longer bolts and attaching self locking nuts on the protruding end

> as a redundancy and a way of making sure they stay tight. > > eddie > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links > > >

[dooden]

I think the main thing is to make sure they are TIGHT and stay TIGHT. Mine had lots of red locktight on them, but Jake had tossed a set of replacements in with the Doohickey long ago and figured what the heck, if Jake bothered to find and send them out just listen to his advise and install. They are "Gudentight" Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Harry Seifert" wrote: > > Eddie, > > Eagle makes two different, vastly upgraded subframe bolt sets. I"ve got > them on my '99 and '06 and haven't had a problem since installation in '02 > and '06. Whichever setup you go with, be sure to use RED Loctite. > > > > [Original Message] > > From: transalp 1 > > To: KLR650 list DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > Date: 6/19/2009 10:18:24 AM > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] subframe bolts > > > > After reading about the inadequacy of the rear subframe bolts and the > fixes available, what's the consensus on this scenario?: > > The SW-Motech engine guards have a heavy steel spacer that fits into the > recesses of the upper subfarme bolt holes. > > The ones on my particular bike were a near press fit - no looseness at > all when in place, even without the bolts installed. > > The new bolts that came with the guards are grade 10 over the OEM grade 8 > bolts. Are there any incidences of this setup breaking? > > > > Also, are the original lower subframe bolts still an issue with the > 08'-09' models? If yes, is it just a simple matter of replacing them with > > grade 10 bolts,too? If I have to go that route, I am looking at getting > slightly longer bolts and attaching self locking nuts on the protruding end > > as a redundancy and a way of making sure they stay tight. > > > > eddie > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[transalp 1]

I quickly determined that yes, the left side, lower subframe bolt should not be longer than stock or else it will interfere with the chain - even on a 09'. =( So much for adding a longer bolt with a locking nut on that side. Eventually, I just cut my grade 10 bolt to length and put a generous amount of locking agent on it and tightened it up. =) eddie

> [Original Message] > From: Tumu Rock > To: > Date: 6/22/2009 10:11:53 AM > Subject: Re: subframe bolts > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "transalp 1" wrote: > > > > Also, are the original lower subframe bolts still an issue with the

08'-09' models? If yes, is it just a simple matter of replacing them with grade 10 bolts,too? If I have to go that route, I am looking at getting slightly longer bolts and attaching self locking nuts on the protruding end as a redundancy and a way of making sure they stay tight.

> > > > Not sure if they upgraded for '08 or not. But beware of longer bolts.

IIRC, the lower subframe bolt on the chain side (at least on pre-'08 KLRs) can contact the chain if it's too long.

> > da Vermonster >

[Chris Norloff]

After my Blue Locktite let that subframe bolt loosen up, I drilled it and safety-wired it in place. More trouble intially, more reliable and less mess when dealing with the bolt after that. Chris transalp 1 wrote:

> I quickly determined that yes, the left side, lower subframe bolt should > not be longer than stock or else it will interfere with the chain - even on > a 09'. =( > So much for adding a longer bolt with a locking nut on that side. > Eventually, I just cut my grade 10 bolt to length and put a generous amount > of locking agent on it and tightened it up. =) > > eddie > > > >> [Original Message] >> From: Tumu Rock >> To: >> Date: 6/22/2009 10:11:53 AM >> Subject: Re: subframe bolts >> >> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "transalp 1" wrote: >> >>> Also, are the original lower subframe bolts still an issue with the >>> > 08'-09' models? If yes, is it just a simple matter of replacing them with > grade 10 bolts,too? If I have to go that route, I am looking at getting > slightly longer bolts and attaching self locking nuts on the protruding end > as a redundancy and a way of making sure they stay tight. > >> Not sure if they upgraded for '08 or not. But beware of longer bolts. >> > IIRC, the lower subframe bolt on the chain side (at least on pre-'08 KLRs) > can contact the chain if it's too long. > >> da Vermonster >> >> >

[transalp 1]

Figuring out I couldn't just simply add a longer, stronger bolt on the left with a self locking nut for good measure, I got a grade 10 bolt with locking agent and ran it down snugly before safety wiring it,too. I *dare* that bolt to work free! On the right side, I was able to do the longer bolt/locking nut thing in place. Time will tell. I never carry a passenger and have yet to pack anything heavier than a camera bag on the rear rack. I thought about getting a set of hard bags. But, now I'm thinking of just tying on some Ortlieb dry bags for weekend campouts. If I need to haul a bunch of crap, I still have the GL1800. eddie

> [Original Message] > From: Don Montgomery > To: > Date: 7/5/2009 8:33:04 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] subframe bolts > > Eddie, yes the subframe bolt is still and issue. Just finished a ride to > Inuvik with a fellow on a new style KLR and we half-assed a repair on a > sheared lower subframe bolt on the left side. The bolt left the inned nut > (which seems to be welded on) with a piece still inside. Easy-Out time

now!

> > Don M > > > > Also, are the original lower subframe bolts still an issue with the > > 08'-09' models? If yes, is it just a simple matter of replacing them

with

> > grade 10 bolts,too? If I have to go that route, I am looking at

getting

> > slightly longer bolts and attaching self locking nuts on the protruding > > end > > as a redundancy and a way of making sure they stay tight. > > > > eddie >

[transalp 1]

Where may I find a stronger bolt alternative to the two that attach the upper sub frame to the main frame?

I have a set of SW-Motech crash bars and they came with new, longer bolts that thread in from either side.

Isn't there a "kit" with a single long bolt, drill bit, etc... to replace them?

tiia

eddie

 

[Jim Tegler]

Howdy James in Dallas, I switch the headlight off when the battery is having a hard time spinning the engine. It really helps give it an extra few electrons. Otherwise, there is always the old bump start! A5 Jim _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what you re up to on Facebook. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691816