battery?/starter? issue

[Guest]

Hmmm.. I wonder if didn't have the subframe upgrade kit when I kissed the trunk of a Mitsubishi, if I would have avoided bending the frame (at the left down tube). Maybe the bolts would have broken and saved the frame? Who cares... I rode away and the frame is only bent when you look at it! Can't feel the difference. dat brooklyn (damage) bum -- damage is my middle name

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Chris Krok wrote: > Under very heavy loads, however, you can also crack the main frame > spine at the connection point. A friend of mine rides two-up offroad a bit, and this happened to his bike. I've also heard of it in one other case. However, you really have to push it to do that. Riding two-up is the real killer because it puts the weight so far back. If you're riding solo, you probably won't have a problem. I'm 235 lbs and have ridden offroad with full camping gear, and haven't cracked the frame. > > Krokko > > > -- > Dr. J. Christopher Krok > John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel > Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125

[killer650@attbi.com]

There is a frame/title combo on eBay right now if you want to swap it out. DK

> Hmmm.. I wonder if didn't have the subframe upgrade kit when I kissed > the trunk of a Mitsubishi, if I would have avoided bending the frame > (at the left down tube). Maybe the bolts would have broken and saved > the frame? Who cares... I rode away and the frame is only bent when > you look at it! Can't feel the difference. > > dat brooklyn (damage) bum -- damage is my middle name > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Chris Krok wrote: > > > Under very heavy loads, however, you can also crack the main frame > > spine at the connection point. A friend of mine rides two-up > offroad a bit, and this happened to his bike. I've also heard of it > in one other case. However, you really have to push it to do that. > Riding two-up is the real killer because it puts the weight so far > back. If you're riding solo, you probably won't have a problem. I'm > 235 lbs and have ridden offroad with full camping gear, and haven't > cracked the frame. > > > > Krokko > > > > > > -- > > Dr. J. Christopher Krok > > John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel > > Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125 > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of > Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

[Guest]

SAE bolts have different grading than metric. Metric will have 8.8, 10.9 or whatever on the heads (low-grade bolts won't have anything), the higher the number the stronger the bolt. The SEA bolt you described, 5/16X18, have the grade marked by dashes like this on the bolt head. The grade is 2 added to the number of dashes on the head, three dashes on the head equals a grade 5 bolt, 6 dashes is a grade 8. Again the higher the number the stronger the bolt. The standard bolt bought in a hardware store is usually a grade 5, but most hardware stores also carry grade 8 bolts. There have been problems with bolts not being what they are represented as. This has been found in hardware stores & I remember the military finding that they were being supplied with bolts of lower grade than marked. So be careful whom you buy fasteners from. Pete A16

[Chris Krok]

> I hope you don't mind if I play ask the rocket scientist - and > anyone else. The bolt that holds my Slipstreamer windshield to the > handlebars breaks eventually. If this happens at speed I lose bracket > hardware. I just bought some extras at Ace. The man said his strongest > bolts were the stainless steel ones. He didn't mention or did I see > written any numerical classification. How and where can I get the > strongest bolts. They're SAE, 5/16 x 18 pitch x 1 1/4. Jake knows this > kinda stuff too but he's been kinda quiet lately.

Hi, Bogdan... Sorry if this has already been answered, I'm catching up on weekend mail. That guy's a fool. Stainless bolts are weaker than grade 5 SAE/8.8 metric. The strongest socket head screws you can get in fractional sizes are alloy steel (the black ones). Those are pretty ubitiquous. The problem is, they will rust. There is a company that makes plated alloy/12.9 screws, but they're a little harder to find. A shot of chain wax on the black oxide screws will take care of them for a long time, though... Krokko -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125

[TH]

Am digging around the bike doing battery maintenance and Damn, one of the top subframe screws gone. No big deal, must of rattled out, so I take everything off and sure as hell it has sheared off, not rattled out. Ok, no big deal, get the extractor set out and get to work. Amazes me how Kawi did not put any grease on any suspension parts but used about a grand worth of red loctite on that particular subframe bolt. Had to go buy a new torch to heat up what was left but eventually got it out and all were immediately replaced by subframe bolt upgrade kit from Fred. Just an FYI- check those, I got lucky in that I found it before the other one sheared off and caused all kinds of grief. TH A19 SLC, UT __________________________________ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com

[Rick]

I was thinking of ordering a subframe bolt upgrade. Dual Star has one for $50 and Big Cee has one for $25. Does anybody know of any differences between the two, aside from price? Thanks, Rick

[Arden Kysely]

I think the difference is in the drill bits/guides you get. I installed the Big Cee kit and am quite happy with it. __Arden

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Rick" wrote: > > I was thinking of ordering a subframe bolt upgrade. Dual Star has one > for $50 and Big Cee has one for $25. Does anybody know of any > differences between the two, aside from price? > > Thanks, > Rick >

[Mike Peplinski]

Hardware store Grade 8's are cheaper still. Take 'em out and measure them.

>From: "Rick" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Subframe bolts >Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2005 19:34:54 -0000 > >I was thinking of ordering a subframe bolt upgrade. Dual Star has one >for $50 and Big Cee has one for $25. Does anybody know of any >differences between the two, aside from price? > >Thanks, >Rick > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[RM]

Mike, They're metric, so no grade 8. Property class 12.9 instead. The kit is better for two reasons. First, the bolt is 10mm instead of 8mm. Second, the shear load is applied to the stronger non-threaded portion of the bolt (unlike the stock setup). I don't know if anyone has ever sheared-off a pair of stock replacement 12.9's, but God help them if they ever have to drill out remnants which have been threadlocked in place. Getting out one of the sheared-off 10.9 stock bolts took me two evenings. Then I needed anotrher to drill out the frame and the other sheared-off bolt from the back-side. That sucked. Mine did fail on the trail, and that sucked too. RM On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 08:59:15 -0600, "Mike Peplinski" said:

> Hardware store Grade 8's are cheaper still. Take 'em out and measure > them.

[wannabsmooth1]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "RM" wrote:

> > Mike, > > They're metric, so no grade 8. Property class 12.9 instead. > > The kit is better for two reasons. First, the bolt is 10mm instead of > 8mm. Second, the shear load is applied to the stronger non-threaded > portion of the bolt (unlike the stock setup). > > I don't know if anyone has ever sheared-off a pair of stock replacement > 12.9's, but God help them if they ever have to drill out remnants which > have been threadlocked in place. Getting out one of the sheared-off > 10.9 stock bolts took me two evenings. Then I needed anotrher to drill > out the frame and the other sheared-off bolt from the back-side. That > sucked. > > Mine did fail on the trail, and that sucked too. > > RM >

One thing that many people seem to forget - If you want loctite to give up, give it some heat! That's what propane torches are for... I've removed a few of the busted off stockers - pull the subframe back so you can get at the remains easier, then some heat, then a left hand drill bit, or screw extracter kit, and out they come. It's far better to replace with good stuff before they break, tho. We've had a few show up broken at tech day, so I'm gonna have to add the extraction stuff to the tools I haul..... all the best, Mike Eagle Mfg & Eng since 1990 San Diego, Ca