highway wreck - lesson learned the hard way

[Glen]

hey all, i drained the oil today so that i could repair the countershaft seal and when i removed the drain plug i noticed that some of the female threads from the case came out with the drain plug and when i tried to reinstall the drain plug it was stripped ( wouldn't torque down at all ), i could still thread it in but couldn't put any torque on it. so as a quick fix i just put some three bond sealant on the drainplug washer this worked just fair as it is dripping quite a bit but i think it will work till i find a fix. i am sure there is an easy fix is there something like an insert that can be put in there or should i tap it out and use a bigger bolt?? or am i way off here, i am sure this has happened to someone before please help me out as this is my transportation i am a student and classes start in 4 days (upei). glenski a14

[Devon]

As a temporary stopgap you can use a rubber expanding plumbers plug. Most hardware stores sell them. Be careful about the plug protruding into the crankcase. Jam the rubber plug in and tighten down the wingnut on the outside, the rubber expands and forms a seal. I would drill a hole in the wings of the wingnut, and then safety wire it once tightened. You could also fit a helicoil, if you do this you need to pack the flutes on the tap with grease to capture the chips (do the same with the drill bits), and have PLENTY of cheapo oil to flush the crankcase with. Devon glenski_31@... wrote:

>hey all, > >i drained the oil today so that i could repair the countershaft seal >and when i removed the drain plug i noticed that some of the female >threads from the case came out with the drain plug and when i tried >to reinstall the drain plug it was stripped ( wouldn't torque down >at all ), i could still thread it in but couldn't put any torque on >it. so as a quick fix i just put some three bond sealant on the >drainplug washer this worked just fair as it is dripping quite a bit >but i think it will work till i find a fix. i am sure there is an >easy fix is there something like an insert that can be put in there >or should i tap it out and use a bigger bolt?? or am i way off >here, i am sure this has happened to someone before please help me >out as this is my transportation i am a student and classes start in >4 days (upei). > >glenski >a14 > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

Someone posted: i drained the oil today so that i could repair the countershaft seal and when i removed the drain plug i noticed that some of the female threads from the case came out with the drain plug and when i tried to reinstall the drain plug it was stripped Several options are available. If mine were stripped out it would almost be a positive event because I would simply go down to a local off highway articulated truck dealer and get one of the really nice steel gallery plugs from a ZF transmission. These are available in 10mm (too small) or 14mm (too big for the stock hole). The 14mm would be my choice as it would be a good replacement drill and tap option. The thing which is really nice about those plugs is that they have a very thin head, less than 1/4", are high quality steel and have a hex socket (Allen) internally so the plug would only protrude <1/4" below the engine case. If I have the option to go this way I will chamfer the head so there is no rim to catch on anything sliding over the bottom of the engine case. The advantage of the ZF plug is that it will have much less protruding below the engine case which might be driven upward in the event of a major "oops" such as landing on a rock. That, in addition to a good engine guard! As a temporary, rubber, expanding plugs are available from parts stores although I'd not rely on one for long. Drilling and tapping is the solution. A trip to your local bike wrecker will provide a bigger plug. I'd look for one which doesn't hade as thick a head as the stock one. HIH Norm

[Jim A Backer]

Auto parts stores sell over size self tapping plugs. They work great. kb7tgr jim A6 02gl18 WY ________________________________________________________________ Get your name as your email address. Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more Only $1.99/ month - visit http://www.mysite.com/name today!

[Hal Moore]

I must have stripped my drain plug on my KLR650 2002. I torqued to 17 ftlbs, but it kept moving without a click, click. Now what? It doesn't leak while standing still or idling, but I do not trust it. I used the old crush washer too, which unfortunately looked "crushed". I used the same one last time, oh woe is me! And I guess I'll lose all that new oil as well if I have to re plug........... I notice Kragen has drain plugs and reamers but I am not sure what to get there, or if I need to get a KLR part (or the magnetic drain plug which I see on a few sites...size? oversize available? Still in the garage, but need to commute!

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:05:35 -0000 "Hal Moore" writes:

> I must have stripped my drain plug on my KLR650 2002. I torqued to 17 > ftlbs, but it kept moving without a click, click. > > Now what? It doesn't leak while standing still or idling, but I do > not trust it. I used the old crush washer too, which unfortunately > looked "crushed". I used the same one last time, oh woe is me! And I > guess I'll lose all that new oil as well if I have to re > plug........... > > I notice Kragen has drain plugs and reamers but I am not sure what > to get there, or if I need to get a KLR part (or the magnetic drain > plug which I see on a few sites...size? oversize available? > > Still in the garage, but need to commute!

<><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> halbiz, Maybe you're still ok but in reality probably not. shrug. May I suggest you consider getting a new crush washer at NAPA. Part Number 704-1371 Gasket Net cost was $0.99 These are 12 mm blue soft washers. They seal well, are reusable unlike the stock aluminum crush washer and don't require as much torque to seal. I think you'll find you can safely tighten a drain plug without a torque wrench if you just get it snug and then a smidge* more. You can check the case and drain plug threads when you do the swap. *Smidge is a technical term for an amount, sometimes a volume and sometimes torque and sometimes another unit of measure. It should only be used by professionals. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ House Rescue Bill Passed $133,000 mortgage under $679/mo. Compare rates and save! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=WI_FHnAzNs3YkM93MI2bRQAAJ1DWfJIDP-R0_NC3mMpGFS0kAAQAAAAFAAAAAJ-piz4AAAMqAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaTcQAAAAA=

[Norman Moore]

Thanks, Jeff, I think I'll try the new crush washer first and see if it snugs up enough to feel confident without reaming out the hole and re-threading with a, what, larger size up, like??? Also would the Blue Goo threadlocker stuff help at all to keep it in? Hal ________________________________ From: Jeff Saline To: halbiz@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 12:48:46 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] stripped drain plug On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:05:35 -0000 "Hal Moore" writes:

> I must have stripped my drain plug on my KLR650 2002. I torqued to 17 > ftlbs, but it kept moving without a click, click. > > Now what? It doesn't leak while standing still or idling, but I do > not trust it. I used the old crush washer too, which unfortunately > looked "crushed". I used the same one last time, oh woe is me! And I > guess I'll lose all that new oil as well if I have to re > plug........ ... > > I notice Kragen has drain plugs and reamers but I am not sure what > to get there, or if I need to get a KLR part (or the magnetic drain > plug which I see on a few sites...size? oversize available? > > Still in the garage, but need to commute!

<><><><><><> <><><> <><><><><><> <><><> halbiz, Maybe you're still ok but in reality probably not. shrug. May I suggest you consider getting a new crush washer at NAPA. Part Number 704-1371 Gasket Net cost was $0.99 These are 12 mm blue soft washers. They seal well, are reusable unlike the stock aluminum crush washer and don't require as much torque to seal. I think you'll find you can safely tighten a drain plug without a torque wrench if you just get it snug and then a smidge* more. You can check the case and drain plug threads when you do the swap. *Smidge is a technical term for an amount, sometimes a volume and sometimes torque and sometimes another unit of measure. It should only be used by professionals. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ House Rescue Bill Passed $133,000 mortgage under $679/mo. Compare rates and save! http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ c?cp=WI_FHnAzNs3 YkM93MI2bRQAAJ1D WfJIDP-R0_ NC3mMpGFS0kAAQAA AAFAAAAAJ- piz4AAAMqAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAaTcQA AAAA= [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

Hal, I think the blue goo threadlocker (medium strength loctite) would not help at all. For loctite to work the threads must be clean and dry. Loctite won't work to replace/repair damaged threads. The new crush washer will do the sealing and the threads hold the plug in place. If the NAPA soft washer doesn't work you might need to install some type of threaded insert. A time sert comes to mind as something that might be appropriate for this application. If I was going this route and wasn't experienced with installing time serts I'd take the bike to a machine shop and have them do the work. It's important to have the new threads aligned properly with the sealing surface of the drain plug and engine for a good seal. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:03:55 -0700 (PDT) Norman Moore writes: Thanks, Jeff, I think I'll try the new crush washer first and see if it snugs up enough to feel confident without reaming out the hole and re-threading with a, what, larger size up, like??? Also would the Blue Goo threadlocker stuff help at all to keep it in? Hal From: Jeff Saline To: halbiz@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 12:48:46 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] stripped drain plug On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:05:35 -0000 "Hal Moore" writes:

> I must have stripped my drain plug on my KLR650 2002. I torqued to 17 > ftlbs, but it kept moving without a click, click. > > Now what? It doesn't leak while standing still or idling, but I do > not trust it. I used the old crush washer too, which unfortunately > looked "crushed". I used the same one last time, oh woe is me! And I > guess I'll lose all that new oil as well if I have to re > plug........ ... > > I notice Kragen has drain plugs and reamers but I am not sure what > to get there, or if I need to get a KLR part (or the magnetic drain > plug which I see on a few sites...size? oversize available? > > Still in the garage, but need to commute!

<><><><><><> <><><> <><><><><><> <><><> halbiz, Maybe you're still ok but in reality probably not. shrug. May I suggest you consider getting a new crush washer at NAPA. Part Number 704-1371 Gasket Net cost was $0.99 These are 12 mm blue soft washers. They seal well, are reusable unlike the stock aluminum crush washer and don't require as much torque to seal. I think you'll find you can safely tighten a drain plug without a torque wrench if you just get it snug and then a smidge* more. You can check the case and drain plug threads when you do the swap. *Smidge is a technical term for an amount, sometimes a volume and sometimes torque and sometimes another unit of measure. It should only be used by professionals. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ House Rescue Bill Passed $133,000 mortgage under $679/mo. Compare rates and save! http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ c?cp=WI_FHnAzNs3 YkM93MI2bRQAAJ1D WfJIDP-R0_ NC3mMpGFS0kAAQAA AAFAAAAAJ- piz4AAAMqAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAaTcQA AAAA= ____________________________________________________________ Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL214 ... soR2O7Uhq/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norman Moore]

Jeff, Ok, thanks, I'll try the washer but will no doubt need to get it repaired right and not worry about it, as I think you are saying. It could be worse, a lot worse. Hal ________________________________ From: Jeff Saline To: halbiz@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 4:36:36 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] stripped drain plug Hal, I think the blue goo threadlocker (medium strength loctite) would not help at all. For loctite to work the threads must be clean and dry. Loctite won't work to replace/repair damaged threads. The new crush washer will do the sealing and the threads hold the plug in place. If the NAPA soft washer doesn't work you might need to install some type of threaded insert. A time sert comes to mind as something that might be appropriate for this application. If I was going this route and wasn't experienced with installing time serts I'd take the bike to a machine shop and have them do the work. It's important to have the new threads aligned properly with the sealing surface of the drain plug and engine for a good seal. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:03:55 -0700 (PDT) Norman Moore writes: Thanks, Jeff, I think I'll try the new crush washer first and see if it snugs up enough to feel confident without reaming out the hole and re-threading with a, what, larger size up, like??? Also would the Blue Goo threadlocker stuff help at all to keep it in? Hal From: Jeff Saline To: halbiz@yahoo. com Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 12:48:46 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] stripped drain plug On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:05:35 -0000 "Hal Moore" writes:

> I must have stripped my drain plug on my KLR650 2002. I torqued to 17 > ftlbs, but it kept moving without a click, click. > > Now what? It doesn't leak while standing still or idling, but I do > not trust it. I used the old crush washer too, which unfortunately > looked "crushed". I used the same one last time, oh woe is me! And I > guess I'll lose all that new oil as well if I have to re > plug........ ... > > I notice Kragen has drain plugs and reamers but I am not sure what > to get there, or if I need to get a KLR part (or the magnetic drain > plug which I see on a few sites...size? oversize available? > > Still in the garage, but need to commute!

<><><><><><> <><><> <><><><><><> <><><> halbiz, Maybe you're still ok but in reality probably not. shrug. May I suggest you consider getting a new crush washer at NAPA. Part Number 704-1371 Gasket Net cost was $0.99 These are 12 mm blue soft washers. They seal well, are reusable unlike the stock aluminum crush washer and don't require as much torque to seal. I think you'll find you can safely tighten a drain plug without a torque wrench if you just get it snug and then a smidge* more. You can check the case and drain plug threads when you do the swap. *Smidge is a technical term for an amount, sometimes a volume and sometimes torque and sometimes another unit of measure. It should only be used by professionals. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ House Rescue Bill Passed $133,000 mortgage under $679/mo. Compare rates and save! http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ c?cp=WI_FHnAzNs3 YkM93MI2bRQAAJ1D WfJIDP-R0_ NC3mMpGFS0kAAQAA AAFAAAAAJ- piz4AAAMqAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAaTcQA AAAA= ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ fc/BLSrjpTMertrS JMUcF9FKog4tEKdL 3Dkz4akX0fA9Itoc MqGjXsoR2O7Uhq/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Craig Kahler]

Torque values are normally calculated for clean dry threads. You are typically dealing with oily threads when reinstalling the oil plug. Maybe 12 ft/lb would be good? Craig Kahler

--- On Sun, 9/27/09, Norman Moore wrote: From: Norman Moore Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] stripped drain plug To: "Jeff Saline" Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Sunday, September 27, 2009, 8:44 PM Jeff, Ok, thanks, I'll try the washer but will no doubt need to get it repaired right and not worry about it, as I think you are saying. It could be worse, a lot worse. Hal ____________ _________ _________ __ From: Jeff Saline To: halbiz@yahoo. com Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 4:36:36 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] stripped drain plug Hal, I think the blue goo threadlocker (medium strength loctite) would not help at all. For loctite to work the threads must be clean and dry. Loctite won't work to replace/repair damaged threads. The new crush washer will do the sealing and the threads hold the plug in place. If the NAPA soft washer doesn't work you might need to install some type of threaded insert. A time sert comes to mind as something that might be appropriate for this application. If I was going this route and wasn't experienced with installing time serts I'd take the bike to a machine shop and have them do the work. It's important to have the new threads aligned properly with the sealing surface of the drain plug and engine for a good seal. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 15:03:55 -0700 (PDT) Norman Moore writes: Thanks, Jeff, I think I'll try the new crush washer first and see if it snugs up enough to feel confident without reaming out the hole and re-threading with a, what, larger size up, like??? Also would the Blue Goo threadlocker stuff help at all to keep it in? Hal From: Jeff Saline To: halbiz@yahoo. com Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 12:48:46 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] stripped drain plug On Sun, 27 Sep 2009 16:05:35 -0000 "Hal Moore" writes: > I must have stripped my drain plug on my KLR650 2002. I torqued to 17 > ftlbs, but it kept moving without a click, click. > > Now what? It doesn't leak while standing still or idling, but I do > not trust it. I used the old crush washer too, which unfortunately > looked "crushed". I used the same one last time, oh woe is me! And I > guess I'll lose all that new oil as well if I have to re > plug........ ... > > I notice Kragen has drain plugs and reamers but I am not sure what > to get there, or if I need to get a KLR part (or the magnetic drain > plug which I see on a few sites...size? oversize available? > > Still in the garage, but need to commute! <><><><><><> <><><> <><><><><><> <><><> halbiz, Maybe you're still ok but in reality probably not. shrug. May I suggest you consider getting a new crush washer at NAPA. Part Number 704-1371 Gasket Net cost was $0.99 These are 12 mm blue soft washers. They seal well, are reusable unlike the stock aluminum crush washer and don't require as much torque to seal. I think you'll find you can safely tighten a drain plug without a torque wrench if you just get it snug and then a smidge* more. You can check the case and drain plug threads when you do the swap. *Smidge is a technical term for an amount, sometimes a volume and sometimes torque and sometimes another unit of measure. It should only be used by professionals. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT .. ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ House Rescue Bill Passed $133,000 mortgage under $679/mo. Compare rates and save! http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ c?cp=WI_FHnAzNs3 YkM93MI2bRQAAJ1D WfJIDP-R0_ NC3mMpGFS0kAAQAA AAFAAAAAJ- piz4AAAMqAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAaTcQA AAAA= ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ Cheap Diet Help Tips. Click here. http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ fc/BLSrjpTMertrS JMUcF9FKog4tEKdL 3Dkz4akX0fA9Itoc MqGjXsoR2O7Uhq/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]