need rotor holder wrench

[Ram Ramacher]

I am at top dead center. on the back (intake) I can,t even get a .076 mm to slide in. on either (L/R) side. specs are 0.10 - 0.20 mm. I have not pulled the shims out because how do I what thickness shims to order without a gap to subract. I would want to keep to clearance toward the larger 0.20 mm gap side right? I will wait for advice before doing anything. Thanks __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? All your favorites on one personal page Try My Yahoo! http://my.yahoo.com

[nakedwaterskier]

http://klr6500.tripod.com/valves.htm

[theram4x4]

Thanks for the advice, that is the site I was using , but, it does not say what to do if there is not any clearance, also the clymer manual does say anything either. The cam points are facing to the rear on the back side (intake). Forward on the front, also I have some clearance there but below spec. on the exhaust shims. Thanks for any help.

[pete88chester]

Ram: Your metric 0.076 mm feeler gage is equal to a 0.0026" U.S. feeler guage. Do you have a 0.002" (0.05 mm) or 0.0015" (0.0375 mm) U.S. feeler gage? If not get them at a auto parts store, there inexpensive. If they don't fit check if the shim is able to rotate under the cam lobe. If it can rotate consider the clearance to be about zero & figure from there. If the shim can't be turned you may need to see if one of the other shims is smaller than the tight one, install it in the tight valve & remeasure. You also could guess that it is only a little tight & get 3 shims; 0.15, 0.20 & 0.25 mm smaller just to give yourself some choses! Have fun Pete Chester PS: Hope the tight valve didn't get burnt. How was it running? --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Ram Ramacher wrote:

> > I am at top dead center. on the back (intake) I can,t > even get a .076 mm to slide in. on either (L/R) side. > specs are 0.10 - 0.20 mm. I have not pulled the shims > out because how do I what thickness shims to order > without a gap to subract. I would want to keep to > clearance toward the larger 0.20 mm gap side right? I > will wait for advice before doing anything. Thanks > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > All your favorites on one personal page Try My Yahoo! > http://my.yahoo.com

[Keith Saltzer]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Ram Ramacher wrote:

> > I am at top dead center. on the back (intake) I can,t > even get a .076 mm to slide in. on either (L/R) side. > specs are 0.10 - 0.20 mm. I have not pulled the shims > out because how do I what thickness shims to order > without a gap to subract. I would want to keep to > clearance toward the larger 0.20 mm gap side right? I > will wait for advice before doing anything. Thanks

Then what I would do is to at least see if I have ANY space under the cam by seeing if I could rotate the bucket and shim underneath of it without a whole lot of effort. If it's stiff as hell, that's not good. How many miles has it been since the last check? And how hard is the bike ridden? Next, I would pull the shim and check the size that is in there, and then I would put in a shim about 4 steps smaller from that one. Example: if you pull a 265, skip 260, 255, and 250, and go to a 245. In other words you have to guess. Adjust all your valves, (use oil on the new shims) bolt down the caps again, spin the motor around twice by hand and check your clearances again. If your off on any of them, you gotta do those again. (duh) MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

[transalp 1]

The procedure for changing shims includes removing the cam chain tensioner and at least removing the cam bearing caps to lift the cams up off the shim/valve spring cup. Anyone ever use the old method of taking a small, pry-bar shaped tool and compressing the cup away from the cam and pulling the shim out that way? I've done a couple of old KZ1000Ps that way and it made the procedure a lot less of a hassle. The cams could stay in place and no small, easy to overtorque bolts are disturbed, no locating dowels get dropped in the engine and my ulcer medicine would get the day off. eddie

[Craig Kahler]

I haven't messed with valve adjustment on the KLR yet. When I checked, they were within limmits. Even though two valves were near the lower limmit, I wasn't going to risk screwing things up in an attempt to make things perfect. I have replaced shims on a 82 XJ750, and didn't have to go through any of this cam stuff. Just push the bucket down and pop out the shim. Craig Kahler

--- On Mon, 6/8/09, transalp 1 wrote: From: transalp 1 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] checking valves To: "KLR650 list" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Date: Monday, June 8, 2009, 8:53 AM The procedure for changing shims includes removing the cam chain tensioner and at least removing the cam bearing caps to lift the cams up off the shim/valve spring cup. Anyone ever use the old method of taking a small, pry-bar shaped tool and compressing the cup away from the cam and pulling the shim out that way? I've done a couple of old KZ1000Ps that way and it made the procedure a lot less of a hassle. The cams could stay in place and no small, easy to overtorque bolts are disturbed, no locating dowels get dropped in the engine and my ulcer medicine would get the day off. eddie [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ltslpr]

Many years ago, when I got ready to do my first valve inspection, I inquired all over about a tool to use to depress the valve spring, as you described. While there are such tools for other models, there is none for the KLR, I was told. Something about no place adjacent to the shim to use for leverage? And, the shims are quite large in diameter. Anyway, once you've done a shim replacement, the next time is no biggie, just a bit tedious. I do recommend you purchase and use an inch/pound torque wrench for the camshaft caps! For mechanical security and peace of mind. Glenn San Jose, CA

[Chris Norloff]

I have one, in Falls Church, VA. Not particularly near Fredericksburg, but thought I'd offer. Chris Craig Kahler wrote:

> I need a rotor holder wrench. Any one around Fredericksburg, VA have one I can buy, rent, or borrow. > > Craig Kahler > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

[transalp 1]

Did the doohickey upgrade to Eagle Mike's torsion spring set up today. All went surprisingly well for this Doo-newby! Had to drill a second hole to the right of the one specified in the instructions, though. The spring just wouldn't make it around to be hooked up on the lever. I noticed a variance between the OEM doo and the new one. The newer doohickey was oriented slightly farther counterclockwise on the shaft. Perhaps why the spring was giving me fits at first. The second hole made it fit...but only barely. No clearace issues with the starter gear or any other hurdles, thankfully! Note: The newer factory doohickey appaers to be one piece. No weld? And my spring wasn't loose ...this time I'm glad I did the upgrade just the same. By the time I finished the doohickey project, the engine had cooled down completely in the a/c equipped workroom at my friend's shop. Cold, the valves were ready to inspect. At just 612 miles, all four were still within limits. But, one of the intakes was more than 50% from loose to tight, as was one exhaust valve. The other intake was right at 0.15mm. I opted to leave it alone. Ditto ex. valve #2(right side). It was at 0.23 . I shimmed the left ex. valve to near identical specs and got the left intake in line with the right one. Everything went back together great until I cranked up to go home. The shop owner had *just* locked up and driven away when I noticed the Neutral light wouldn't go out. ???? Hmmmm. Off came the seat & tank again. Luckily I had some tools with me! Anyhow, I'd accidentally crimped the Neutral wire behind the upper rear motor mount plate. I'd removed it to make cam cover removal/installation easier. As i type this, a long hot bath is running. I spent the last hour fixing 1 $#%@ wire in 90F heat. But, all in all, it was a good day! eddie [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]