>From: Jim >Sent: Dec 30, 2005 5:16 PM >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Fork Seals > >My fork seals gave way a week ago or so and started spitting up so I'm >ready to install fresh ones and wipers too. Origionals lasted 43K, so >no complaints and I have done the swap with a buddies bike so no >worries. My question is after draining the fork oil and hanging it >for a while I would like to be sure and get any foreign material out >of the tubes. I want to use flush with a solvent like diesel and >rinse with fork oil prior to filling. What's your opinion or do you >have a better idea. Thanks. Warming up the garage. >--Jim >A-15 > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >
winter klr project
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fork seals
Jim,
Personally, if it were my bike with that many(?) miles, I'd go ahead and disassemble the forks for a thorough cleaning and be done with it. That's the only way you'll get all the debris out. It doesn't take that much longer, and you won't take the risk of screwing up the tubes when trying to get the old seal out.
Yup, that's what I'd do.
Guy
A16
Richmond, VA
-----Original Message-----
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fork seals
I'm with Guy, If it were me I would tear the forks down and inspect
the internals for worn/out of spec parts. Use Automatic Transmission
Fluid to flush the forks if you go that route.
Or if you really wanted to go all out take them off and send them out
to a suspension guy and have them rebuilt, progressive springs added
and race tech emulators installed. You might not recognize your bikes
suspension after that. The work would probably run around $400 with
the fork seal replacement.
Jim Fortner
The smoky flat lands of north Texas.
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fork seals
I found that my left fork seal is leaking. I checked with Arrow on
seals and they have a few to choose from,but I do not have a
manual...so, I don't know how much oil per fork. And I'm not sure
which one's to buy. Everything on my bike is stock, so I'm not trying
to match anything fancy.
GM
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fork seals
Go with O.E.M. seals. Neverleak seals suk.
Oil 190 mm from top of tube spring removed forks compressed.
You can stiffen up the front end a bit by goin' to 170 mm oil level.
Geoff wrote:
I found that my left fork seal is leaking. I checked with Arrow on
seals and they have a few to choose from,but I do not have a
manual...so, I don't know how much oil per fork. And I'm not sure
which one's to buy. Everything on my bike is stock, so I'm not trying
to match anything fancy.
GM
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fork seals
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Geoff" wrote:
Avoid the "Leakproof" brand. They're not. CW says OEM is best.> > I found that my left fork seal is leaking. I checked with Arrow on > seals and they have a few to choose from,but I do not have a > manual...so, I don't know how much oil per fork. And I'm not sure > which one's to buy. Everything on my bike is stock, so I'm not trying > to match anything fancy. > > GM >
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fork seals
Thanks for the response on the fork seal issue. What I'm understanding
as I start this job on my A13 is: don't go with "Leak Proof" seals -
use OEM, go with LR springs - they are a worthy upgrade, probably do
the fork boots considering their age and not a lot of $, 7wt oil gives
soft initial travel, 10wt is middle of the road.
Bill
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fork seals
What seals does everyone recommend. Should I change the dust seal also? Thanks.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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fork seals
Use OEM seals and always remember that the
seals are not new unless the dust seals are too.
Walt
----- Original Message ----- From: "E Hines" What seals does everyone recommend. Should I change the dust seal also? Thanks.
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fork seals
On Fri, 1 May 2009 06:49:01 -0700 (PDT) E Hines
writes:
<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> E Hines, I've got 27,000 plus smiles on my 2003 KLR. I changed the fork oil and did a complete teardown/cleaning at the same time at about 16,000 smiles. I've got my forks apart again right now for a cleaning, fork oil change and installation of race tech gold cartridge emulators and progressive fork springs. My seals still aren't leaking so I'm not gonna replace them. But just on the off chance I might need to change them I bought OEM fork seals a month or two ago. I'm a firm believer in the worth of OEM fork seals and brake pads. I've still got another 10,000 smiles or so to go on my original brake pads. I did buy replacement pads when I bought the fork seals just so I wouldn't have to wait for them. I think you'd be fine with wiping the sealing surface of the dust seals with a clean rag and some WD-40 to remove any dirt and reuse them. I also think it's important to keep fork boots on the tubes that are in good condition. They do a lot to help protect the dust seal and oil seal and the tube too. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Want to work all of your life? Click here for investment information and start saving today. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFOGd4X0R1tgjeMIZo41jatfxF7YPyrEc2DFTk3yA57MDUVEJhS3e/> What seals does everyone recommend. Should I change the dust seal > also? Thanks.
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fork seals
I'm going through the same exercise myself as my seals recently failed. I
figure they failed due to dust getting past the dust seals so I ordered new
dust seals. I also ordered Daystar #58 boots to replace the stock boots
while I have everything apart.
Kevin
On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 8:49 AM, E Hines wrote: > > > What seals does everyone recommend. Should I change the dust seal also? > Thanks. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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