winter klr project

[Dan Pauley]

Working the KLR-250 fork seals. I purchased a spare set of e-bay forks that came with new fork seals. Never heard of this brand. in a plastic bag with "Ars Rubber Seals" logo Cardboard inside gives application and has "Shindy Products" logo. They looked good. They were not "leak proof brand" Anyone used this brand of seal before? Normally I use OEM fork seals. Since I have spare forks, going back in won't be as much of a PITA, but still hate to do it if preventable. Comments? Thanks, Dan / \

[Chris Krok]

> From: "mantis0880" > Subject: Re: Fork oil level? HELP! > > true, I am not quite at the "hulk" status, but sometimes there is a > good deal of rage involved when working on my bikes... > I more meant the up and down slamming motion that seems to pull them > apart...

I think that's what the slider weight (special tool) does. I just pulled the seal retainers out of mine, removed the allen bolt, and slid the lower down a few times. The upper came out, taking the seal with it.

> what do you think, I am in the process of replacing the springs with > aftermarket, in there and all, should I bother with replacing the > seals?

If the seals aren't leaking now, they should be fine. Have you ridden for a long time with split boots? Through a lot of grit? No point doing all of the extra disassembly just for springs and oil. As a matter of fact, you don't even have to disassemble the forks to remove the seals if you can get the forks to a compressed air supply. I think there's info in the FAQ. Krokko -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125

[gpokluda]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Chris Krok wrote:

> If the seals aren't leaking now, they should be fine.

If you have gone through all of that trouble, I think it would be wise to just replace the seals now. FWIW, we have banned Leak Proof seals at my shop. They cost almost twice as much as generic parts from Parts Unlimited and have a higher incidence of failing than the less expensive seals. Gino www.rvmc.com

[bfiorenza4]

Just wonderong if the easiest way to get my fork seals out is to remove the oil, the clip, and apply air pressure to the top. 05 KLR 650 95 KLR 250 (for the wife)

[Bogdan Swider]

> > > Just wonderong if the easiest way to get my fork seals out is to > remove the oil, the clip, and apply air pressure to the top.

This describes it. http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Breakers/8462/KLR650/ForkSeal-RR.html Bogdan

[Sonny Bulla]

I was looking on my parts list for fork seals, as I'm getting ready to change the oil and clean them, and I see listed: Fork Seal-pt#92093-1166 and... Fork Oil Seal-pt#92049-1180 Which of these is the one that usually needs to be replaced (or both)? Sonny '02 KLR650

[Jim]

Both. One is the dust seal and sits on top of the oil seal. Use air pressure to get the old seals out, jerking the tubes does not do it. Use pvc pipe 2.5" ID as a seal driver. Have fun. --Jim A-15

> I was looking on my parts list for fork seals, as I'm getting ready > to change the oil and clean them, and I see listed: > > Fork Seal-pt#92093-1166 > and... > Fork Oil Seal-pt#92049-1180 > > Which of these is the one that usually needs to be replaced (or both)? > > Sonny > '02 KLR650

[Eric L. Green]

On Tue, 26 Apr 2005, Sonny Bulla wrote:

> I was looking on my parts list for fork seals, as I'm getting ready > to change the oil and clean them, and I see listed: > > Fork Seal-pt#92093-1166 > and... > Fork Oil Seal-pt#92049-1180 > > Which of these is the one that usually needs to be replaced (or both)?

Unless you see oil seepage on your tubes, don't bother. Just change the oil, and if you're concerned about how dirty the oil is, change it again a few hundred miles later to finish flushing out any dirt. On a machine as new as yours (an '02), the fork seals are fine. I didn't remove my forks when I changed my fork oil, I just did it one fork at a time, popping the cap, opening the drain, and then squishing the suspension up and down until all the oil was out. Didn't even put it up on the lift. To do the fork oil level thang, you'll need to put it up on a lift when done squishing the oil out, or simply measure to Kawasaki's spec. The new oil does a great job. No fork seals were touched while doing this fork oil change. -E

[Sonny Bulla]

Thanks for the reply. I was just wondering 'cause, I had seen pics of fork seals from aftermarket dealers for the KLR and they only showed one seal. I realize they might not need a cleaning but, that's never stopped me from cleaning anything before. Anyway, I was about to give the bike it's yearly wash and, while the bike is approaching 20K, I thought I'd disassemble the front end, check steering head bearings, maybe install a new front tire, grease the axle, and check on fork inner wear, etc, etc. Just didn't want to get in there, find out I needed seals and have the bike down for more time than needed. Thanks again, Sonny '02 KLR650 ----------------------------------------

On Tue, 26 Apr 2005, Sonny Bulla wrote: >I was looking on my parts list for fork seals, as I'm getting ready >to change the oil and clean them, and I see listed: > >Fork Seal-pt#92093-1166 >and... >Fork Oil Seal-pt#92049-1180 > >Which of these is the one that usually needs to be replaced (or both)? Unless you see oil seepage on your tubes, don't bother. Just change the oil, and if you're concerned about how dirty the oil is, change it again a few hundred miles later to finish flushing out any dirt. On a machine as new as yours (an '02), the fork seals are fine. I didn't remove my forks when I changed my fork oil, I just did it one fork at a time, popping the cap, opening the drain, and then squishing the suspension up and down until all the oil was out. Didn't even put it up on the lift. To do the fork oil level thang, you'll need to put it up on a lift when done squishing the oil out, or simply measure to Kawasaki's spec. The new oil does a great job. No fork seals were touched while doing this fork oil change. -E

[Jim]

My fork seals gave way a week ago or so and started spitting up so I'm ready to install fresh ones and wipers too. Origionals lasted 43K, so no complaints and I have done the swap with a buddies bike so no worries. My question is after draining the fork oil and hanging it for a while I would like to be sure and get any foreign material out of the tubes. I want to use flush with a solvent like diesel and rinse with fork oil prior to filling. What's your opinion or do you have a better idea. Thanks. Warming up the garage. --Jim A-15