nklr flywheel wrench suzuki

DSN_KLR650
Bill Ahrens
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 12:17 pm

wtb thermo-bob for my 2000 klr

Post by Bill Ahrens » Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:41 pm

Mark s smart status just dropped, not most but all automotive and most modern motorcycle engines have bypass systems. Bill Ahrens W. A. Ahrens & Associates 2007 KLR 650 2006 Concours 1985 K100RT -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Mike Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 6:58 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: WTB Thermo-Bob for my 2000 KLR --- In, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote:
> > At 2:17 PM -0800 3/2/09, Greg May wrote: > >....the way I would compare the ThermoBob, which > >I have installed to the electronics field would > >be as follows. .... The ThermoBob allows your > >motor to quickly warm to operating temperature. > > The other benefit of the ThermoBob is that > >once your motor warms to operating temp it stays > >in my experience stable pretty much with in a > >needle's width on the temp gauge thus preventing > >thermal shock when the thermostat opens and > >floods the motor with greatly cooled anti-freeze > >on a cold day. > > I'll compare it to the several millions of > liquid-cooled auto and motorcycle engines that > have no such device, but have all enjoyed great > longevity in the modern era. > I laugh at the rocket science that goes on in many areas concerning
the KLR.
> The money is better used toward the suspension, > luggage or a GPS rather than some superfluous > device that *may* (no clinical studies done, mind > you) extend the life of an already durable > engine, IMO. > > BTW, if you're afraid of thermal shock, don't > ever take it across a creek, or even through a > mud puddle or thunderstorm. > Mark >
I guess you haven't looked at an automotive engine for a looong time.... :) Nearly all of them have a radiator bypass, and have for many years. Some modern motorcycle engines do too. all the best, Mike [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Larry
Posts: 165
Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2011 7:47 pm

wtb thermo-bob for my 2000 klr

Post by Larry » Mon Mar 02, 2009 11:14 pm

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" wrote:
> I guess you haven't looked at an automotive engine for a looong > time.... :) Nearly all of them have a radiator bypass, and have for > many years. Some modern motorcycle engines do too. > > all the best, > Mike
Hi Mike, Would a 2 stage thermostat, that partially opened at a lower than operating temperature, not produce the same results? LB.

Tengai Mark Van Horn
Posts: 1922
Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2002 8:31 pm

wtb thermo-bob for my 2000 klr

Post by Tengai Mark Van Horn » Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:01 am

That would depend on the definition of "modern," but OK, I was talking out of my ass to add ammo to my argument. My point is: -Although the device functions as designed, there is zero clinical proof that it will significantly extend the life of a KLR. -Many people are installing this on a bike that is 8 or 9 years old, which means there's less chance of experiencing any benefit. IMO, I class this as a luxury add-on, one notch away from the Farkle category. For the cash-strapped rider, it is certainly an unnecessary upgrade in view of the many KLRs that have made it beyond 60K miles, and those that have traveled around the globe without missing a beat. The KLR is a reliable 2-wheeled yard tractor. Yes, I fully understand the concept and satisfaction of customizing one's ride. However, I'm amused by those who slap on numerous "performance items" to it at great expense, which are contrary to the scope of this bike in a KLR-to-GoldWing attempt. If you want a better bike, shell out for a better bike. Oh well... it could be worse. It could be the Duchin Dash. Mark At 9:42 PM -0700 3/2/09, Bill Ahrens wrote:
>Mark s smart status just dropped, not most but all automotive and most >modern motorcycle engines have bypass systems. > > >Bill Ahrens >W. A. Ahrens & Associates >2007 KLR 650 >2006 Concours >1985 K100RT > >-----Original Message----- >From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com]On >Behalf Of Mike >Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 6:58 PM >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: WTB Thermo-Bob for my 2000 KLR > >--- In, Tengai Mark Van Horn > wrote: >> >> At 2:17 PM -0800 3/2/09, Greg May wrote: >> >....the way I would compare the ThermoBob, which >> >I have installed to the electronics field would >> >be as follows. .... The ThermoBob allows your >> >motor to quickly warm to operating temperature. >> > The other benefit of the ThermoBob is that >> >once your motor warms to operating temp it stays >> >in my experience stable pretty much with in a >> >needle's width on the temp gauge thus preventing >> >thermal shock when the thermostat opens and >> >floods the motor with greatly cooled anti-freeze >> >on a cold day. >> >> I'll compare it to the several millions of >> liquid-cooled auto and motorcycle engines that >> have no such device, but have all enjoyed great >> longevity in the modern era. >> I laugh at the rocket science that goes on in many areas concerning >the KLR. >> The money is better used toward the suspension, >> luggage or a GPS rather than some superfluous >> device that *may* (no clinical studies done, mind >> you) extend the life of an already durable >> engine, IMO. >> >> BTW, if you're afraid of thermal shock, don't >> ever take it across a creek, or even through a >> mud puddle or thunderstorm. >> Mark >> >I guess you haven't looked at an automotive engine for a looong >time.... :) Nearly all of them have a radiator bypass, and have for >many years. Some modern motorcycle engines do too. > >all the best, >Mike

aphampton628
Posts: 48
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 10:28 am

wtb thermo-bob for my 2000 klr

Post by aphampton628 » Tue Mar 03, 2009 8:09 am

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Larry" wrote:
> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" wrote: > > > > I guess you haven't looked at an automotive engine for a looong > > time.... :) Nearly all of them have a radiator bypass, and have for > > many years. Some modern motorcycle engines do too. > > > > all the best, > > Mike > > Hi Mike, > Would a 2 stage thermostat, that partially opened at a lower than > operating temperature, not produce the same results? > LB. >
FWIW http://eetcsystems.com/ http://www.wahler.de/fileadmin/wahler/Dokumente/pdf_kataloge/Thermostatbroschuere_en.pdf Alan

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

wtb thermo-bob for my 2000 klr

Post by Jeff Saline » Tue Mar 03, 2009 8:38 am

On Tue, 03 Mar 2009 05:14:25 -0000 "Larry" writes:
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" wrote: I guess you haven't looked at an automotive engine for a looong time.... :) Nearly all of them have a radiator bypass, and have for many years. Some modern motorcycle engines do too. all the best, Mike >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hi Mike, Would a 2 stage thermostat, that partially opened at a lower than operating temperature, not produce the same results? LB. <><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Larry, I don't think it would provide the same results as the coolant it let pass would go directly to the radiator instead of returning to the coolant pump and getting recirculated through the cylinder and head. For others... I don't think anyone involved in the design, manufacturing or marketing of the Thermo-Bob has ever said the Thermo-Bob would extend engine life or is a must have item. But the data shows it will enhance the performance of the KLR cooling system compared with the stock set up. Bill was nice enough to counsel me back in 2005 right after he made his first Thermo-Bob while I was making a head mounted stat housing with by-pass for my KLR. With his guidance I was successful in my first (and last) attempt in this endeavor. A few years later he also shared his expertise as I added a second radiator to my KLR to better meet the needs of my particular riding situations. My experience shows the Thermo-Bob makes a significant difference in engine coolant temperature stability at ambient temps below about 70 degrees F. If I always rode at temps above 70 degrees F I probably would not install a Thermo-Bob. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Click here to save cash and find low rates on auto loans. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTLaWxk3LfEgkSYSVViLK34nFw8WkCXTgrxjsFCesRZfJ3OQp49ps8/

fasteddiecopeman
Posts: 813
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2004 2:05 pm

wtb thermo-bob for my 2000 klr

Post by fasteddiecopeman » Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:37 am

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote:
> I'll compare it to the several millions of > liquid-cooled auto and motorcycle engines that > have no such device, but have all enjoyed great > longevity in the modern era. > Mark >
Mark, What I BELIEVE you're missing, is that those "several millions of liquid-cooled auto and motorcycle engines" have a bypass BUILT IN as part of the design, and our KLRs don't. What Bill Watson did was identify an area that is problematic in KLR design, and come up with a fairly simple/easy solution. Cheers, Ed

Larry
Posts: 165
Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2011 7:47 pm

wtb thermo-bob for my 2000 klr

Post by Larry » Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:40 pm

Seems odd that they did not include a bypass in the cooling system and never saw a reason to add one later. I thought they increased the area on the 08 radiator but reduced it's capacity to help stabilize engine temps in cool weather. But the 08 has a 1.55 Lt cooling capacity and previous models have 1.33 Lt. Seems that this would make things worse in cold weather. I live in Canada so cold weather is never an issue....burp. LB. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" > Mark,
> What I BELIEVE you're missing, is that those "several millions of > liquid-cooled auto and motorcycle engines" have a bypass BUILT IN as > part of the design, and our KLRs don't. What Bill Watson did was > identify an area that is problematic in KLR design, and come up with a > fairly simple/easy solution. > Cheers, > Ed >

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

wtb thermo-bob for my 2000 klr

Post by Jeff Saline » Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:28 am

On Mon, 02 Mar 2009 09:22:20 -0600 Jim Douglas writes:
> What's interesting to me, and I am NOT a engine type guy, is that I > > always thought that > heat had bad affects on things, in my industry electronics, we are > always aware of heat > as it tends to break down materials and thus their life is shortened > due > to high heat. I > believe from what I read that low heat can cause engine issues of > some > type? I have > read the overview of the product but it's not clear to me why you > would > want the engine > to be at a constant (higher) temperature than what was originally > designed by the mfg? > Can anyone explain, in no engine expert terms why you would need > this > and how it > would extend the life of some parts of the engine? > > Thanks!
<><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><> Jim, I know this is kind of beating a dead horse but thought I'd try to give it one last little gasp of breath as it moves on to wherever dead threads go. : ) The proper temperature range is important for the proper operation of an internal combustion engine. Too little heat is bad just like too much heat is bad. A few examples are: - heat in the combustion chamber (and tracts both intake and exhaust) for proper ignition and burning and disposal of the air/fuel mixture and related by-products. - heating the oil for proper lubrication i.e. flow, oil wedge in some cases and an opportunity to help remove combustion by-products. (As a rough guide you can figure for each gallon of fuel burnt during the combustion process makes a gallon of water. There are also some acids and other by-products created that can get captured in the oil. Again as a rough guide, hotter oil, with in reason, works better than cold oil in an internal combustion engine.) *Engine lubricating oils have four functions... (1) They prevent metal to metal contact in moving parts. (2) Assist in carrying away heat from the engine. (Bottom of the piston is one example) (3) Cleans the engine as it lubricates. (4) Seals the combustion chamber between the piston rings and the cylinder wall to prevent/reduce blow-by of combustion gasses. - heat in the cooling system for proper temperature control of engine parts and sealing fixtures. Metal changes size based on temperature. (If the temperature stays cool like with a stock KLR cooling system, has lots of wide temperature changes, again like with the stock KLR cooling system, parts that rub on each other might experience more wear than parts which are held at a stable temperature.) A constant engine temperature will help stabilize part dimensions as they expand to size and then tend to remain at that size. An example would be piston to cylinder size. When cold you might have 0.0022" clearance between the piston and cylinder, like with a 685 kit. When the cylinder gets hot the inside diameter will be reduced just a little bit. The piston gets hot and it expands just a tad. The expansion is figured by the engine designers or guys that figured out how to hot up an engine using some formulas and experience. The cylinder and piston won't expand at the same rate or amount in most cases. Once the engine gets hot you might find the piston to cylinder clearance is changed from the cold size of 0.0022" to less than 0.0010". Of course if the metal gets hotter it will tend to expand more reducing clearance even more. And if the engine doesn't get hot enough the metal won't expand as much as desired. Both situations can affect engine performance and life of the parts and sealing fixtures. So figuring out the correct temperature for best performance and parts life can be important. Most of the folks on this list probably won't ever design an engine. I know that's a wild guess but I'm thinking it's pretty accurate. : ) So we'll have to use input from the folks that can or have designed engines with success, and failure too. Sometimes knowing what won't work is as important as knowing what does work. An example might be piston to cylinder clearance. Knowing 0.0022" works is important. Knowing 0.0018" causes engine seizures would be pretty helpful too. : ) Knowing oil works well in a environment of about 200 degrees F but begins to fail above 250 degrees F could be helpful. Knowing it doesn't work quite as well at 165 degrees F would also be helpful. And I suppose everyone is nervous about lubrication when temps are below freezing and the oil is slow to flow and maybe doesn't get into tight spaces quite as well as when warmer. What's too hot or too cold? I think most engine guys think, as a general rule, internal combustion engines might work well (best) with a coolant temperature of around 190-205 degrees F. If the temperature is stable (this is where a by-pass can really shine) the parts will remain the same size and reduce clearance issues and wear. Performance will probably be improved as might fuel economy. Cooler temps will hinder parts getting to size and lubrication might suffer a tad. Hotter temps like above 250 degrees will probably result in increased wear and maybe failure of sealing fixtures like valve seals, head gaskets or piston ring sealing. They could also cause warping of the head. Bearing wear might be accelerated too from lack of proper lubrication as the oil gets too hot (thin first and then begins to change properties) to properly do it's job. So keeping the engine at a stable, proper temperature can improve performance, combustion efficiency and help extend oil and engine life. Allowing an engine to operate at too cool a temperature (by design or cooling system malfunction like missing or stuck open thermostat or riding in cold temperatures) can reduce performance, the combustion process burning the fuel/air mixture can be negatively impacted and engine life can be shortened by not allowing parts to get to size AND oil change intervals should be shortened because the oil can't eliminate combustion by-products since it can't get hot enough. Allowing the engine to run too hot can cause unrepairable engine damage as a worse case, like from an engine seizure but also cause repairable damage like cooked valve seals, warped head/blown headgasket, toasted bearings from lubrication fluid that is too thin (wrong viscosity at higher temps) etc. Fuel economy will probably also suffer from too hot an engine temp. Guess it's time to close this e-mail but I hope it helps. The short version is too hot is as bad as too cold. Just right is what works best. Finding just right can be tricky and not the same for everyone. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Improve your personal appearance with a great looking wig! Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFktDgvYBRQLrkyB2OTm3mwDtNWoErTmbgLnvPTixl0VIhpNy5LzC/

Michael Martin
Posts: 222
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 7:47 pm

wtb thermo-bob for my 2000 klr

Post by Michael Martin » Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:02 pm

________________________________ From: Jeff Saline Jim, I know this is kind of beating a dead horse but thought I'd try to give it one last little gasp of breath as it moves on to wherever dead threads go. : ) Very nice write-up, Jeff. Mike Martin, Louisville, KY [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

J. Christopher Krok
Posts: 108
Joined: Wed May 03, 2006 4:52 am

nklr flywheel wrench suzuki

Post by J. Christopher Krok » Thu Mar 05, 2009 10:39 am

Speaking of flywheel wrenches, I need to pull the rotor on my '83 Suzuki GS1100E; would anyone happen to have a rotor holder and puller available for loan? I'm in the Los Angeles area, but would certainly pay shipping if I can only get one farther away. Thanks, Chris -- J. Christopher Krok, Ph.D. Big Cee Engineering KLR650 Accessories and home of the FAQ

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