mixing oil and coolant

[Michael Nelson]

On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 08:33:51PM -0000, rick wrote:

> I have spoken with my buddy Fred at Arrowhead Motorsports and he is > sending me a helicoil kit to repair these bolts.

Waste of time and money. They'll fail again. -- "Tragedy is when I cut my finger. Comedy is when you fall into an open manhole and die." -- Mel Brooks San Francisco, CA

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Michael Nelson wrote:

> > On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 08:33:51PM -0000, rick wrote: > > I have spoken with my buddy Fred at Arrowhead Motorsports and he is > > sending me a helicoil kit to repair these bolts. > > Waste of time and money. They'll fail again.

Really? Mine haven't. In fact, I've never had anything helicoil'ed fail again, those helicoils are made out of some really hardened steel that doesn't seem to fail like the mild-steel stock captive nuts, and they spread the force against the whole footpeg box rather than just the threads of the captive nut. Replace the wimpy stock footpeg bolts with some grade 12.9 allen-head bolts from a good hardware store, and you're good to go. This is pretty much as permanent a repair as anything I've ever done. -E

[W.V. Doran]

Mine failed also, I installed helicoils and they have held for over 3 years. However, I believe they have held because I drilled the nuts, applied loctite blue, torque them to 14 ft pounds and safety wired them. So far no problems. WVDoran Scottsdale, AZ

--- On Wed, 6/25/08, E.L. Green wrote: From: E.L. Green Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Foot Peg bolts To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, June 25, 2008, 3:24 PM --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Michael Nelson wrote: > > On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 08:33:51PM -0000, rick wrote: > > I have spoken with my buddy Fred at Arrowhead Motorsports and he is > > sending me a helicoil kit to repair these bolts. > > Waste of time and money. They'll fail again. Really? Mine haven't. In fact, I've never had anything helicoil'ed fail again, those helicoils are made out of some really hardened steel that doesn't seem to fail like the mild-steel stock captive nuts, and they spread the force against the whole footpeg box rather than just the threads of the captive nut. Replace the wimpy stock footpeg bolts with some grade 12.9 allen-head bolts from a good hardware store, and you're good to go. This is pretty much as permanent a repair as anything I've ever done. -E [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tumu Rock]

Haven't tried helicoils, I've always just tapped out to 10mm and never had a problem once I did... (and I definitely have tested the strength of the tapped out threads, multiple times). da Vermonster

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "rick" wrote: > > I have spoken with my buddy Fred at Arrowhead Motorsports and he is > sending me a helicoil kit to repair these bolts. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "rick" wrote: > > > > The bolts on both of my wife's foot pegs are starting to strip out. > > What is the recommended fix for this? Drill and retap with bigger, > > helicoils or what? Thanks. > > >

[Stuart Mumford]

> -----Original Message----- > > > Waste of time and money. They'll fail again.

I'm sorry, but this is 100% incorrect. I've hit my post-Helicoil footpegs hard enough that my footpegs are now splayed downwards on either side of the bike, and the bolts have held tough through that abuse. I've tried both methods, Helicoil 8mm and oversize 10mm, and if I was to buy a brand new KLR, I'd just slap a 8mm Helicoil in the footpeg brackets the day I brought it home and never worry about it again. Thanks CA Stu A13

[fasteddiecopeman]

Rick, The nuts inside the "boxes" are square - Grade 2 or less in SAE - and small (8mm) which is why they strip out, PLUS the fact that they are so shallow that there's ONLY room for about 2 threads! (Which is why drilling them and re-tapping probably won't do any good - but YOUR RESULTS may vary). To fix mine I cut the boxes out, ground the square nuts out, then redrilled the footpegs and box holes to accept 10mm bolts and welded 10mm Grade 8 equivalent (I know, heat changes the hardness, but I STARTED with the hardest I could get!) nuts in while using bolts thru the footpeg holes to 'locate' the nuts. Then removed the bolts/pegs and welded the boxes back to the frame rails. Then, as regular hex heads will interfere with each other UNLESS indexed, I got allen head capscrews and re-attached the pegs. They've stayed tight ever since. Cheers, Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "rick" wrote: > > The bolts on both of my wife's foot pegs are starting to strip out. > What is the recommended fix for this? Drill and retap with bigger, > helicoils or what? Thanks. >

[E Hines]

Check behind the speedometer itself. When you tighten it use some pliers or it will keep coming loose. ________________________________ From: Chris Norloff To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2009 9:07:14 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] mixing oil and coolant Yay! Got the new water pump seals installed, and it's looking good. The first batch of oil still came out milky-looking, but again there was no oil/water separation line when I let it sit. Figuring it must just be froth or condensation, I took the bike for a ride. When I drained the oil afterwards it came out looking good. And no leaks from the water pump! Thanks for all the help, Chris And now the speedometer stopped working... sheesh. The cable's good, so I guess it's in the front hub. Haven't had the front wheel off recently. Chris Norloff wrote:

> Update: I pressurized the coolant system without the water pump (while > waiting for the new parts). > > One or two strokes with a bicycle pump put enough pressure for the > radiator cap to release, and I could hear bubbling in the overflow tank. > A quick check with a new low-pressure tire gauge said it was only 2 or 3 > psi. That just doesn't sound right, as I haven't had any cooling problems. > > The real test will be when I get the new seals installed in the water pump. > > Chris > > > Chris Norloff wrote: >> Yes, I would remove the water pump from the pressure test only to >> determine if I have a leak other than the pump (known leak, parts are on >> order). I'm thinking through what I can do now -- cause I'd sure hate to >> be surprised when I put it all back together. >> >> thanks, >> Chris >> >> >> Jeff Saline wrote: >> >>> On Tue, 24 Feb 2009 10:23:41 -0500 Chris Norloff >>> writes: >>> >>> >>>> Update: I drained the oil used for the test run (where I noted the >>>> coolant dripping out of the water pump weep hole). The oil >>>> definitely >>>> looked cloudy/milky when I drained it. But even after sitting >>>> overnight, there was no visible oil/coolant separation. I poured it >>>> into >>>> a clear jug, and there's still no visible oil/coolant separation -- >>>> so >>>> now I'm wondering if what I saw was froth left over from running the >>>> >>>> engine with too much oil in it. >>>> >>>> I clearly need water pump seals, which Fred is expressing to me >>>> (thanks >>>> Fred!). But I'm wondering if I'm NOT getting coolant into the oil. >>>> Wednesday night's test run should tell. >>>> >>>> I'm also rigging up a way to pressurize the coolant system to test >>>> it. >>>> Half-inch PVC pipe fits well into the coolant hoses, so disconnect >>>> them >>>> from the water pump, connect them with a U-shaped PVC pipe, attach a >>>> >>>> valve stem, and see if it will hold a little pressure (no more than >>>> >>>> 10psi I'm thinking -- I'll check what it's rated for). That'll tell >>>> me >>>> if I have a leak somewhere else. >>>> >>>> Thanks for the help, >>>> Chris >>>> >>>> >>> <><><><><><> <><><><> >>> <><><><><><> <><><><> >>> >>> Chris, >>> >>> Make sure the coolant system has fluid in it when you do your pressure >>> test. The less air you use the better as compressed air will act as a >>> spring. If you can include the radiator and cap in your test the cap can >>> act as a pressure relief valve in case you get a bit too much pressure in >>> the system. >>> >>> For whatever it's worth... if you disconnect the hoses from the coolant >>> pump you are taking one of the prime areas for leaks out of the test. >>> >>> Best, >>> >>> Jeff >>> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ >>> Put your loved ones in good hands with quality senior assisted living. Click now! >>> http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ fc/BLSrjpTJkoJqP ARlvNelAMMPHy6oa sXoz4e7sA8Avg0Cl 26vFPfTbtdRGEI/ >>> >>> >>> ------------ --------- --------- ------ >>> >>> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews. com >>> List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/ klr650faq. html >>> Member Map at: http://www.frappr. com/dsnklr650Yah oo! Groups Links >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> ------------ --------- --------- ------ >> >> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews. com >> List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/ klr650faq. html >> Member Map at: http://www.frappr. com/dsnklr650Yah oo! Groups Links >> >> >> >> > > > > > ------------ --------- --------- ------ > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews. com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/ klr650faq. html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr. com/dsnklr650Yah oo! Groups Links > > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Spike55]

Take 5 mins and check your foot peg bolts. If lose, add blue Loctite / Permatex and tighten to 13 ft-lbs. I tried to keep them tight, one side with and one side without the treadlocker. The side without eventually loosens for some reason. Don R100, A6F