tank shroud vents--cooling the klr

[Richard Clark]

I purchased an '07 back in July with 4700 miles. I just changed the oil myself (after watching the video on YouTube) at 6600 miles. I am now just over 8k. I have an appointment next week at the dealer for the 8K mile service, but wanted to tap into the collective expertise of this group to get some insight on maintenance. I am mechanically inclined; however, being in the middle of a home remodel, I don't have the time to do more complex maintenance tasks (plus the associated learning curve). So here are my questions: - How much of the routine service is just "check" type tasks that can be easily accomplished on my own? - If you had to distill the required maintenance down to the bare essentials, which tasks are most critical? - Aside from the dealer, how do you find a competent independent mechanic? Is there some kind of industry certification? Does anybody know of a good shop in Colorado Springs, CO? - I'm following the threads on the doohickey. It seems that Eagle Mike is the way to go. When is a good time to get the doo done? What is the risk of not doing the doo (I'm suprised that Kawasaki hasn't fixed it over the life of this model...) Thanks in advance for your insight!

[boulder_adv_rider]

Richard - Sorry to hear about the remodel . As for maintenance, follow the User's Guide. If you're very hard on the bike consider 75% of the recommended service interval. I'm in Boulder and would gladly help although it's a bit far. So perhaps someone else on the list could help. Also try Craig's List. I was looking for parts locally and found a guy new to Colorado looking for a KLR mechanic. I hooked him up and he's smiling ear to ear. As for the dealer, I'd avoid it them. If you're too busy with your remodel then when are you going to have time to ride? Easily you'll make it to winter if you just change the oil + filter and make sure the air filter is good. A lot of the things dealers do are just 'check' things...like check a box and do nothing. Again not all dealers are bad, but you shouldn't need them to do basic repairs and maintenance. It's plain and simple. If you don't have the time, find someone else's garage (if you're too crowded) to do the work. Otherwise, just tidy up a bit, get prepared (parts, etc.) and get it done. You're so close to winter, probably I'd just change the oil and then once winter is here then tear into things. You don't need to be impatient and nothing is going to blow-up providing you're not doing some huge trip to South America in the meantime. This list is a tremendous resource as is a good shop manual. The work is fun, so don't make it unenjoyable by getting too many irons in the fire. But start by getting an order together including contacting Eagle Mike for the doo gift set. Of course, someone locally might have the tools (wrench and rotor puller) already. Brian --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Clark" wrote:

> > I purchased an '07 back in July with 4700 miles. I just changed the > oil myself (after watching the video on YouTube) at 6600 miles. I

am

> now just over 8k. > > I have an appointment next week at the dealer for the 8K mile

service,

> but wanted to tap into the collective expertise of this group to get > some insight on maintenance. > > I am mechanically inclined; however, being in the middle of a home > remodel, I don't have the time to do more complex maintenance tasks > (plus the associated learning curve). > > So here are my questions: > > - How much of the routine service is just "check" type tasks that

can

> be easily accomplished on my own? > - If you had to distill the required maintenance down to the bare > essentials, which tasks are most critical? > - Aside from the dealer, how do you find a competent independent > mechanic? Is there some kind of industry certification? Does

anybody

> know of a good shop in Colorado Springs, CO? > - I'm following the threads on the doohickey. It seems that Eagle > Mike is the way to go. When is a good time to get the doo done?

What

> is the risk of not doing the doo (I'm suprised that Kawasaki hasn't > fixed it over the life of this model...) > > Thanks in advance for your insight! >

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Clark" wrote:

> So here are my questions: > > - How much of the routine service is just "check" type tasks that can > be easily accomplished on my own?

Except for the valve adjustment, I don't think there is anything that goes beyond cursory twiddling. The valves take some time, and you have to arrange to have the right shims without knowing in advance which ones you will need. Any shop that charges you for more than an hour at its shop rate is ripping you off.

> - If you had to distill the required maintenance down to the bare > essentials, which tasks are most critical?

Change oil regularly, adjust valves as needed, change gas frequently.

> - Aside from the dealer, how do you find a competent independent > mechanic? Is there some kind of industry certification? Does anybody > know of a good shop in Colorado Springs, CO?

Apex has a lot of parts in stock, but I have no Idea how they are for service. There are a couple of legendary BMW mechanics in the Springs, but I'm not from there, so that's all I know. Ping Scott_Rides_Again on klr650.net; he might be able to steer you right; word of mouth is the only reliable way to find an independent wrench.

> - I'm following the threads on the doohickey. It seems that Eagle > Mike is the way to go. When is a good time to get the doo done? What > is the risk of not doing the doo (I'm suprised that Kawasaki hasn't > fixed it over the life of this model...) >

Eagle Mike is the best option. The best time to do it is at a time convenient to you, or whenever you can get to a tech day, where you can borrow the special tools and get some experienced coaching. If you pay to have it done, it's worth about an hour or less. I think Eagle Mike has his time down to 23 minutes. Scott can tell you about local tech days as well. If you do not change the quadrant, There is a strong likelihood that the balancer system will not adjust properly. About one bike in three (pre-'08) will have a broken spring or quadrant; if you forget about trying to adjust it, the risk of catastrophic damage is quite remote. But you will never know if the parts have failed or not. If you open the bike up far enough to know the condition of the balancer adjuster parts, you might as well replace them, even if they are good.

[boulder_adv_rider]

<< if you forget about trying to adjust it, the risk of catastrophic damage is quite remote>> Forget about adjusting it? A properly tensioned system is critical. I can confirm this first hand! Also, I'd posit riding [unsuspectingly] with a broken doo puts the risk of serious engine damage at very high if you're riding off-road. For those that don't know, my brother's top end got wiped-out. A 2006 fairly new bike at the time with not many smiles. On day-1 of Baja he took a dirt nap causing some light pinball action. I can't remember if it was the spring or a piece of the adjuster that got mashed in the balancer system causing the severe damage. I remember the spring was completely mashed which makes me think it was the culprit. Anyway, bad juju. Commuters are at lower risk because gravity will try to pull-down the bits and pieces if they break. It's not until you have a horizontal 'event' that you're throwing serious dice. My brother knew the risk. I was informed and explained it to him. I had just done my doo and had the parts for him, but he didn't want to fiddle with his so close to departure. He figured his perfectly running commuter machine hadn't broken yet, why would it in Baja? To his credit we did take several test rides including Anza Borrego and some other rough stuff. He's a roller and had plenty of dirt naps to support a "no worries" attitude. Still, I strongly recommended he change it even if midnight the night of departure. He chose not to doo it. Anyway...it ruined our trip and the better part of spring/summer riding waiting for it to get rebuilt. Bottom-line is: just Doo it. Eagle Mike provides an awesome solution and it's one of the few things I can recommend 100%. Brian

[Bill Watson]

Revmaaatin wrote: (and this is AFTER snipping)... -------- I would suggest that the high temp gauge is not really HOT unless there is an exchange of fluid into the overflow bottle, and it is running out on the ground. Now that would be hot. In 5 years of reading the LIST, I have yet to hear of anyone overflowing a radiator bottle--but I could have missed it.... Does anyone have anything other than speculation that blocking the shroud vents makes a bike run hot? IVO others that ride the bike without tank shrouds, it seems to me, covering the tank vent is a mute point; The Q is this: 1. Are the tank shrouds just something to make the bike look sexy? 2. Does the shroud vent's 'really' serve a necessary function? 3. Can they be covered without any long term defect? 4. Does anyone have any hard data to support their findings, either covered, uncovered, or shroud-less? (Watson?) 5. Did IMS put vents on the tank because it was similar to OEM? 6. Has anyone did any temp reading/test to validate KHI engineering- - that either validates/negates the tank shroud, or tank shroud vent? (Watson?) IE temps recorded with shroud on, shroud off, vent open, vent covered, etc plus the difference in radiator exit-air temp from an OEM tank/shroud vs those of an IMS tank. 7. Any hard data here to support the effects +/- of a pat-mad? Or is it possibly just something that feels good, and should be helpful? --------------------------------- Rev, The following is documented at www.xanga.com/watt_man , I think the link once there is "improving cooling system margin". I have tested the pat-man mod at a steady 60 mph and if I remember correctly, it was worth a 9 degree decrease in temps. The theory is that it blocks a low-resistance path around the radiator that air can find easily. I have also run the bike WITHOUT a left shroud, and also saw a very similar improvement - it would seem that in this case, we are unplugging the exit. The vent in the shroud is quite small and aligned withe the fan shroud, I'd think plugging that vent would make an imperceptible difference. I have not tested that. Yes, I ride with NO shroud all year. My shrouds haven't been on my bike in quite a while now. I think they're there for looks. Clearly they aren't providing much crash protection... I guess the optimum, would be to cut a shroud in half, top to bottom. The forward half would be installed with the Pat-man mod, and the aft half would not exist - so the inlet would be well defined and the exit would be unblocked. I have zero data on the IMS tank and so forth. Everything above is in reference to a stock fuel tank and shroud setup. As for "HOT" being an event that overflows the catch bottle, that would be too hot in my opinion. The expansion required to fill the bottle to the top can't be accomplished by only 38 oz. of water in a cooling system... UNLESS it boils. Then of course, we will see the overflow puking. To boil a 15 psi system with 50/50 coolant, I think we're talking 250-260F, and I for one would prefer not to go there... my 'drop dead' number is 240F. Just opinion there but I'm trying to avoid the boilover non-linearities. Hope this helps! Bill Watson www.xanga.com/watt_man Phoenix, AZ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Richard, You "are" inclinded to do it yourself ? Then let me say this: "That bike between "your" legs is yours, not Mine" Just about anything on a KLR is quite documented online and various sources that give step by step instructions that are very easy to follow, for the doohickey I followed Devon's instructions I think or both his and Marks.. see what I mean.. many resources at your fingertips. Pretty much could have done it eyes closed I studied the thing like my life depended on it, cus.. ummmmm its between "MY" legs. Not a expert by any means but am a do it yourselfer to save some bucks and give me good reasons to buy tools that make the stuff alot more fun to do. Just feels good to do things myself, at least I know who to blame. Dooden A15 Green Ape (Riding Season for me is basically over, except weekend camp run or two left) --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Clark" wrote:

> > I purchased an '07 back in July with 4700 miles. I just changed the > oil myself (after watching the video on YouTube) at 6600 miles. I

am

> now just over 8k. > > I have an appointment next week at the dealer for the 8K mile

service,

> but wanted to tap into the collective expertise of this group to get > some insight on maintenance. > > I am mechanically inclined; however, being in the middle of a home > remodel, I don't have the time to do more complex maintenance tasks > (plus the associated learning curve). > > So here are my questions: > > - How much of the routine service is just "check" type tasks that

can

> be easily accomplished on my own? > - If you had to distill the required maintenance down to the bare > essentials, which tasks are most critical? > - Aside from the dealer, how do you find a competent independent > mechanic? Is there some kind of industry certification? Does

anybody

> know of a good shop in Colorado Springs, CO? > - I'm following the threads on the doohickey. It seems that Eagle > Mike is the way to go. When is a good time to get the doo done?

What

> is the risk of not doing the doo (I'm suprised that Kawasaki hasn't > fixed it over the life of this model...) > > Thanks in advance for your insight! >

[Rick]

Tech Days are your answer. I know Sgt. Marty did tech days in your area, he's on his way to the tip of Argentina now. But someone else could be stepping up to the plate to host them. Or better yet, get on this and other forums and host a tech day. So many KLR geek take it apart put it back together dweebs will show up and do your bike for you. To host a tech day, you need to have a bbq, hamburgers, brats and beers. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Clark" wrote:

> > I purchased an '07 back in July with 4700 miles. I just changed the > oil myself (after watching the video on YouTube) at 6600 miles. I am > now just over 8k. > > I have an appointment next week at the dealer for the 8K mile service, > but wanted to tap into the collective expertise of this group to get > some insight on maintenance. > > I am mechanically inclined; however, being in the middle of a home > remodel, I don't have the time to do more complex maintenance tasks > (plus the associated learning curve). > > So here are my questions: > > - How much of the routine service is just "check" type tasks that can > be easily accomplished on my own? > - If you had to distill the required maintenance down to the bare > essentials, which tasks are most critical? > - Aside from the dealer, how do you find a competent independent > mechanic? Is there some kind of industry certification? Does anybody > know of a good shop in Colorado Springs, CO? > - I'm following the threads on the doohickey. It seems that Eagle > Mike is the way to go. When is a good time to get the doo done? What > is the risk of not doing the doo (I'm suprised that Kawasaki hasn't > fixed it over the life of this model...) > > Thanks in advance for your insight! >