mileage

[ftw1956]

Thanks to everyone who helped me out w/ my last question about what teeth to run. I have finally made up my mind to run the 15/43's. They did fine from ND to Aerostich and back. My next question is what are the Pro/Con's of the OEM vs. Aftermarket sprockets? Thanks again!

[John Biccum]

I find the OEM drive sprockets vibrate slightly less than the aftermarket parts which lack the rubber cladding of the OEM parts. From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ftw1956 Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 17:44 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] OEM or Aftermarket sprk? Thanks to everyone who helped me out w/ my last question about what teeth to run. I have finally made up my mind to run the 15/43's. They did fine from ND to Aerostich and back. My next question is what are the Pro/Con's of the OEM vs. Aftermarket sprockets? Thanks again! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Honestly I liked the 14t ability to pull quicker than the OEM 15t, but OEM has that rubber thing on it and really helps take away some of the chain noise. Had used it commute often so just put the stock back on, but also installed fresh 606 front and 270 rear so when offroad I gots way better traction also. OEM seem to hold up quite well for a well... OEM sprocket I think. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "ftw1956" wrote: > > Thanks to everyone who helped me out w/ my last question about what > teeth to run. > I have finally made up my mind to run the 15/43's. They did fine from > ND to Aerostich and back. My next question is what are the Pro/Con's of > the OEM vs. Aftermarket sprockets? Thanks again! >

[Ed Dobson]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John Biccum" wrote:

> > I find the OEM drive sprockets vibrate slightly less than the

aftermarket

> parts which lack the rubber cladding of the OEM parts. > > > > From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On > Behalf Of ftw1956 > Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 17:44 > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] OEM or Aftermarket sprk? > > > > Thanks to everyone who helped me out w/ my last question about what > teeth to run. > I have finally made up my mind to run the 15/43's. They did fine from > ND to Aerostich and back. My next question is what are the Pro/Con's of > the OEM vs. Aftermarket sprockets? Thanks again!

Has anyone ever tried to duplicate the rubber cladding on an aftermarket sprocket? Not worth the trouble? Maybe the K-sprocket has better steel, hardness, dimensional accuracy/manufacturing, or maybe not? ED

[Bogdan Swider]

> Probably the rubber cladding doesn t do much. I wasn t pleased with the > longevity of the after market countershaft sprokets; the rear ones were ok. I > get over 20k miles out of the chain and rear sprocket but have had to change > the front before that. I was told the Kawi would last longer. If memory serves > that was the case with the sprockets that came with the bike. > > Bogdan > > Has anyone ever tried to duplicate the rubber > cladding on an aftermarket sprocket? Not worth > the trouble? Maybe the K-sprocket has better > steel, hardness, dimensional accuracy/manufacturing, or > maybe not? > > ED > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Aaron P]

FWIW - there's a rubberizing spray available @ hardware stores which I've used to give a texture to some surfaces in the past. It's kind of like a spray on version of the plastic dip used on the handles of tools, like pliers & snips, etc. Not sure about the vibration- absorbing qualities of this stuff, but it's out there for anyone who wants to give it a try. - Aaron

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bogdan Swider wrote: > > > > Probably the rubber cladding doesn t do much. I wasn t pleased with the > > longevity of the after market countershaft sprokets; the rear ones were ok. I > > get over 20k miles out of the chain and rear sprocket but have had to change > > the front before that. I was told the Kawi would last longer. If memory serves > > that was the case with the sprockets that came with the bike. > > > > Bogdan > > > > Has anyone ever tried to duplicate the rubber > > cladding on an aftermarket sprocket? Not worth > > the trouble? Maybe the K-sprocket has better > > steel, hardness, dimensional accuracy/manufacturing, or > > maybe not? > > > > ED > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bill Watson wrote:

> > David, over the years this gets discussed a lot - it seems that the

responses will vary plus or minus 15 mpg from about 53 mpg. The lowest numbers are 38-ish from an occasional poster, there are the majority around the middle (50-55) and the upper end of the responses is around 68 mpg. It's mostly the rider and driving cycle. Your 61 sounds great.

> > As for speedometer error, yep, it's documented. The odometer

(which we calculate fuel economy from) is usually very close. I correct my readings by a .996 factor, which is only 0.4 miles off for every 100 miles. Almost no error at all.

> > Bill Watson > Phoenix, AZ > www.xanga.com/watt_man >

Hi Bill, I for one have experienced a wide variety of gas-mileage in the last 10000 miles ridden since 1 May--a low of 32 all the way to 55. The 32 was in horrific headwinds of at least 40+ and sometimes 50 mph during my ride from Dallas TX to central SD. It nearly beat me to death, as previously described: the tattered flag tour. At 70mph plus 40-50 mph headwind component, you are in a 110+mph headwind component. Add the fact that my bike was loaded like a rented mule, the gas mileage was grim, indeed. Those of course are extreme conditions...I also experience 52 mph during one portion of that trip when I went through a wind shift and had a 40+ mph tailwind. It was like riding with a windshield! Fast forward to this Sept., same bike, loaded more heavily.... Gas availability was going to be dicey on the lower 1/2 of the GDR and we were hawking the fuel numbers like a turkey on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving. We concluded that at 45mph GPS, loaded like a rented mule, with relatively no wind, the 07, and the 98 were constantly making 53ish gas mileage using the GPS mileage as the miles driven. We would easily cross the New Mexico 'void' between Grants NM going South without deviation for fuel--if we made no navigational errors. (As it turned out, we deviated from the 'subscribed GDR' due to our lack of physical endurance and injuries sustained prior to reaching Grants, NM = non issue for fuel.) shrug. I suspect most any KLR bike would get greater than 55 if driven at 45mph, cough, (gag), but 'ultimate gas mileage' is in interesting noteworthy achievement for some...but if the purveyors of super-gas mileage were realistic for saving money, you would be considering all input cost, not just 'fuel'. 5000 miles per set of tires offsets the gas savings significantly when factored in as an input cost; and calculating cost/mile. As described earlier here, one kind poster showed that his 6-cylinder F150 was cheaper to operate/mile than a KLR, just not as many smiles.... Gas approaching $5 may make that F150 a little less desirable--but you get the idea. If ultimate gas mileage is the goal, then a diesel equipped car that goes 50+ MPG and tires that last nearly 50,000 miles would seem to me to be a better choice. shrug. We don't ride KLR motorcycle's because it saves us money. We ride KLR's because it is the most smiles for the money--and as a tertiary result, it annoys the chrome crowd to no end when you get off your heavily laden mule, walking into the restaurant in full armor and layers of dirt/mud/blood with a swagger (or limp) that shouts that you have just accomplished something! The look of amazement and admiration registered on their faces is "PRICELESS". revmaaatin.

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bogdan Swider wrote:

> > > > Probably the rubber cladding doesn t do much. I wasn t pleased

with the

> > longevity of the after market counter-shaft sprockets; the rear

ones were ok. I

> > get over 20k miles out of the chain and rear sprocket but have

had to change

> > the front before that. I was told the Kawi would last longer. If

memory serves

> > that was the case with the sprockets that came with the bike. > > > > Bogdan

Bogdan, and others, Applying a bit of simple math here--given: a properly maintained chain on a properly aligned rear wheel using OEM sprocket numbers of 15/53, the rear sprocket should last ~3x as long as a front sprocket as the sprocket is being 'pulled' or in contact only 1/3 as much as the 15T C/S is pulling, etc. That said, watching the teeth on the C/S and replacing it at some 7K smiles might just get you more mileage from your chain and rear sprocket. I for one bounce around from a 13, 14, 15F / 43 on one bike to a 14, 16F / 46 (108 link chain) on the other bike and just visually track the wear pattern on the C/S and replace as necessary. I have gotten ~20K smiles from an OEM chain--which I considered entirely reasonable---with a strict regime of WD-40/ or WALMART equivalent for chain maintenance. All this in an environment of greater than 60%+ gravel roads/trails. Bill Watson recently did some personal chain research, retiring his OEM chain with some 32,000 miles if I remember correctly--using WD-40 chain cleaning regime as well. What I don't remember is...was that 32K on the same sprockets as well? It would seem to me, chain wear is almost entirely dependent upon your cleaning regime; I try to lube at every fill up and when I park it for the evening after every ride (notice: try). revmaaatin.

[boulder_adv_rider]

Under combat conditions, I got 5k miles from my stock front sprocket, 10k miles from the OEM chain and 12k miles from OEM rear sprocket. I used Dupont dry lube every 300 miles or so. I will note the chain was failing miserably at the 10k mark on my way back to Fairbanks from Prudhoe Bay. It was completely trashed with several rollers missing! I replaced the stock chain with some DID gold beauty and installed a new a/m 14T (use 75% of the time). The other 25% of the time I run an a/m 15T. Everything including the replacement 43T a/m rear sprocket still looks very good. I've adjusted the chain slightly twice. Vibration? I can't tell any difference between OEM front and a/m sprockets. I think the wear with a/m is superior. My a/m chain here at 20k seems far more durable too, but this could be attributable to switching from Dupont dry lube to Bel Ray and some other m/c race chain lube. Conclusion: I'd go with the a/m sprockets at almost half the price of OEM. I'd go with a premium after-market chain. Brian