cracked clutch cover

[Mike Atkinson]

While off road riding I went over a rock which smashed into the right front side of the engine. The sorry black plastic slid plate is worthless and will be replaced. But, there is a crack in the housing and oil leaks out. I attached a photo. Can the crack be fixed some how or will I have to order a new housing to replace the cracked one? The housing appears to be aluminum so welding does not seem to be an option. Is it hard to get off and a new one on, what all has to be done? Muddy Shoe Mike Casper Wyoming [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Horton Oliphant]

Attachments aren't allowed and are stripped off. Up load the picture to the picture area and tell us what it is labeled. Aluminum is welded all the time although it might not be practical where the crack is located. Alan A13 Iowa Mike Atkinson wrote:

> While off road riding I went over a rock which smashed into the right > front side of the engine. The sorry black plastic slid plate is > worthless and will be replaced. But, there is a crack in the housing > and oil leaks out. I attached a photo. Can the crack be fixed some > how or will I have to order a new housing to replace the cracked one? > The housing appears to be aluminum so welding does not seem to be an > option. Is it hard to get off and a new one on, what all has to be > done?

[boulder_adv_rider]

I haven't welded nor analyzed the KLR case material for weldability, but my guess is it's possible. I have a TIG welder but most likely your far away. So I'd recommend taking it to a local welding shop that can do cast aluminum. I just welded a huge drill press flange base (cast iron) and that came out better than new. Cast material is tricky but it depends on the break location, stress, etc. Of course unless you prep & paint, the repair will be visible. Now, you said "right side", so is it the clutch case cover? If it's the block, it's far more serious and costly. A new clutch cover runs $192 from Ron Ayers. -Brian --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Atkinson wrote:

> > While off road riding I went over a rock which smashed into the

right front side of the engine. The sorry black plastic slid plate is worthless and will be replaced.

> But, there is a crack in the housing and oil leaks out. I attached

a photo. Can the crack be fixed some how or will I have to order a new housing to replace the cracked one? The housing appears to be aluminum so welding does not seem to be an option. Is it hard to get off and a new one on, what all has to be done?

> > Muddy Shoe Mike > Casper Wyoming > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Atkinson wrote:

> But, there is a crack in the housing and oil leaks out. I attached

a photo. Can the crack be fixed some how or will I have to order a new housing to replace the cracked one? The housing appears to be aluminum so welding does not seem to be an option. Is it hard to get off and a new one on, what all has to be done? Please note that Yahoo Groups does not allow photos to be posted to its mailing lists. Otherwise they'd be all pron all the time . It may be that you can epoxy whatever is leaking using Kwiksteel or some similar epoxy putty. It just depends. You may wish to upload a photo to your own home page, Flikr, or some other place, and post a link here if you want us to take a look and see. -E

[boulder_adv_rider]

Until you surface (1AM) we can only assume it's the clutch case. Removal is easy and may/may not require 2 new gaskets (water pump and clutch case). Start by draining the engine oil, and then drain the 1.4L cooling system by placing a clean bucket under the water pump (w/p). Then remove the small inverted bolt at the bottom of the w/p and squeeze/release the hoses to assist in drainage. Next remove three small bolts holding the w/p to the clutch case (note: only one bolt is bigger and the other two are all the same as the clutch case housing bolts except for one very long one at the oil filter cover (left)). Once you get the w/p removed, remove the impeller nut. You'll need to secure the impeller from rotating unless you use an impact wrench. Some people put a long screw driver into the impeller to hold it...whatever...just don't break the dainty thing. Then carefully work-off the impeller taking note of the inner and outer washers and their positions. As with any 'new to you' KLR procedure, take pictures if your memory is not so good. Then remove the clutch cable mount via its one bolt. Then remove the clutch cable from the clutch lever. Once the clutch lever is free, rotate it fully counter clockwise. This disengages it to the internal clutch rod. Alternatively, simply rotate it counter clockwise and lift it up and out of the clutch case. Then remove the countless bolts surrounding the clutch case. Make sure you get them all! Then the case should come off with your hands. A light tap with a soft plastic hammer never hurt, but unless someone "glued-on" the case, it practically should fall off. Just mind the gaskets so perhaps you can reuse them (common). That's it. Case in hand. Don't forget to clean out the oil screen (sounds like you've never been in here before...it's located near left bottom and looks like a big black rubber ring with inward-facing conical screen) and perhaps inspect the clutch plates for wear if you're a high mileage rider. Otherwise, button it up, add oil and coolant and install a beefy skid plate! Don't forget to follow the torque recommendations for all fasteners including the case bolts and impeller nut. -Brian --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Mike Atkinson wrote:

> > While off road riding I went over a rock which smashed into the

right front side of the engine. The sorry black plastic slid plate is worthless and will be replaced.

> But, there is a crack in the housing and oil leaks out. I attached

a photo. Can the crack be fixed some how or will I have to order a new housing to replace the cracked one? The housing appears to be aluminum so welding does not seem to be an option. Is it hard to get off and a new one on, what all has to be done?

> > Muddy Shoe Mike > Casper Wyoming > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Eric Foster]

Best fix if it isn't structural is to 1st "V" the crack with an abrasive bit in a Dremel, like 1/16" wide and deep. This gives a good bite for the JB and rolls the metal onto itself across the crack. Clean the area VERY well if CRC Brake-Kleen then let dry. Roll the JB into the area with your finger. You don't need to do much other than to cover the crack. Once you get it the way you want, stick black tape over it. This works like the old Midnight Bondo Body wax paper treatment. I did this just outside the oil pump on my XRR years ago and never had a problem. I've also done this as a temp fix to a 3/4" x 1/2" hole through it's clutch cover with success. I actually lent the cover, which I keep as a spare, to someone who rode Baja with it. -- Hmm, lets see. Ronald Reagan or Mussolini...... Yup, I'll vote McCain!