gasoline leak

[Mike Peplinski]

No doubt about it, the "right way" is the best way. These rattle can fixes are just el-cheapo ways. Check out what a boddy shop gets to repaint a car bumper. Its about $400, about the same as repainting a door or hood. Of course the Fusion or Bulldog bonding agent will work for an ameteir job but you really get what you pay for. IN my case the original panels on my airhead were far from factory perfect, more like "aftermarket perfect". You have to decide when good enough is good enough.

>From: Chromatech1 >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >CC: chromatech1@... >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Painting Plastic >Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 05:20:13 -0700 (PDT) > > > > > I'd like to convert my green sidecovers to satin or >gloss black. I > > hear that Fusion paint (for plastic) is adequate. >Any suggestions >on > > brand of paint, and best way to prepare the raw >surface for paint? > >*As an automotive painter, I can suggest two "industry >correct" ways. > >The first and the easiest way to paint plastics would >be to scrub/scuff with a new red 3M scotch brite and >ajax/comet, wash clean with soap and water, wax and >grease remove, blow, tack, apply a high quality clear >plastic primer (PPG, Dupont, etc..). For durability, >only use a catalyzed color systems; base coat-clear or >2k. Flattener can be added for desired gloss at the >paint store. Assuming you have a 1.4 or less on your >spray gun tip, apply paint as thin as possible (less >is best) and If you want to add flex agent, it >wouldn't hurt but, a high quality paint product will >do just fine without. I wouldn't compromise all that >work with cheap paint. > >Second way to paint stubborn plastic: Sand parts >thoroughly with 180 grit, hit missed places with red >scotch brite pad, wax and grease clean and then prime >with 2k primer w/ flex add. > >After primer is dry, guide coat, sand with 320-400 >grit dry or, 500-600 grit wet and then follow the >procedures above. This bumper procedure is old school >pealing prevention. This had to be done back in the >day because plastic bumpers used to be hell to paint.. >Rip it - prime the piss out of it and sand it >smooth..It's a lot of work! > >**Remember, paint with clean compressor air! > >John Schwartz >Owner and Operator of : >CHROMATECH - 1 >Mobile Refinishing Service >http://profiles.yahoo.com/chromatech1 > > > > > > > > > > > >__________________________________ >Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 >http://mail.yahoo.com > > >Archive Quicksearch at: >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Mike Peplinski]

No Pep Boys in Milwaukee area. Any idea where else I can get this Bulldog stuff?

>From: "Arden Kysely" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Painting Plastic >Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 13:44:06 -0000 > >I'll vouch for Bulldog. I used it to re-paint the little hub caps on >my T100. Took off all the paint with a soap, water, and a scrubby, >applied Bulldog, then primer, then silver paint--all from spray cans. >Looks great and has held up for a year so far, except where the >dweebs at the tire shop took off the wheels without removing the caps >first. > >__Arden > >--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klr6501995" wrote: > > The glues glue. > > Bulldog adhesion promotor in the rattle can. Buy at Pepboys. I >painted > > my 95 barbie flat black. > > On some parts I used used black bumper trim sold in rattle can. > > On other sections I used HardHat enamel bought from Grainger. Can't >see > > th difference, even w/ close inspection. > > > > first rough sand the plastic clean w/ soap and hot water and apply > > Bulldog. Let it dry till tacky/dry and spray w/ enamel. > > Wet sand after and redo above. I did maybe 4-7 coats. Had plenty of > > time on my hands then. Temps were like 50deg F. > > > > Enamel resisted gasoline real good in a couple of days, the bumper >trim > > to almost a month. > > > > FWIW I use the empty stock toolkit section as my tool holder and >nuts > > and bolts during mainteance. Holds keys everyday. very little >evidence > > of the original puke green. > > > > Total maybe 6 rattle cans. I did notice a weight, handling >difference > > on first couple of rides and I wasn't predisposed to this thought >like > > we are when we make HP mods to our bike. > > > > I also used the Bulldog to make adheasive backed velcro stick to my > > seat and fender. Easy access ! > > blah blah blah. > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Rodney Copeland" >wrote: > > > My test drive with the Fusion paint amused me. > > > After two weeks to really dry to a point it wouldn't take finger > > > prints, and bug prints goin down the road, it turned out a month > > later > > > to be as crisp as any paint I've used. > > > I'll try acrylic enamel before I try that shtuff again, pretty >sure. > > > Least it will dry in a reasonable period of time. > > > Good luck with it, > > > Rod > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "my7kidsdad" > > wrote: > > > > I'd like to convert my green sidecovers to satin or gloss >black. I > > > > hear that Fusion paint (for plastic) is adequate. Any >suggestions > > on > > > > brand of paint, and best way to prepare the raw surface for >paint? > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >

[Jim]

Great post John. Now how about a few translations: tack 2K (brand name?) flattener guide coat --Jim A-15

> *As an automotive painter, I can suggest two "industry > correct" ways. > > The first and the easiest way to paint plastics would > be to scrub/scuff with a new red 3M scotch brite and > ajax/comet, wash clean with soap and water, wax and > grease remove, blow, tack, apply a high quality clear > plastic primer (PPG, Dupont, etc..). For durability, > only use a catalyzed color systems; base coat-clear or > 2k. Flattener can be added for desired gloss at the > paint store. Assuming you have a 1.4 or less on your > spray gun tip, apply paint as thin as possible (less > is best) and If you want to add flex agent, it > wouldn't hurt but, a high quality paint product will > do just fine without. I wouldn't compromise all that > work with cheap paint. > > Second way to paint stubborn plastic: Sand parts > thoroughly with 180 grit, hit missed places with red > scotch brite pad, wax and grease clean and then prime > with 2k primer w/ flex add. > > After primer is dry, guide coat, sand with 320-400 > grit dry or, 500-600 grit wet and then follow the > procedures above. This bumper procedure is old school > pealing prevention. This had to be done back in the > day because plastic bumpers used to be hell to paint.. > Rip it - prime the piss out of it and sand it > smooth..It's a lot of work! > > **Remember, paint with clean compressor air! > > John Schwartz > Owner and Operator of : > CHROMATECH - 1 > Mobile Refinishing Service > http://profiles.yahoo.com/chromatech1 > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 > http://mail.yahoo.com

[Mike Frey]

I'd also like to see John's recommendations for brand names. FYI for all: The plastics on our bikes are POLYPROPYLENE, same as many bumpers on newer cars It might not be the exact "formula" of polypro, but it's the same base material and painting would be the same. I'm well versed in the manufacture of products like this, but don't know much about painting them. Jim wrote:

>Great post John. >Now how about a few translations: >tack >2K (brand name?) >flattener >guide coat > >--Jim >A-15 > > > > > >>*As an automotive painter, I can suggest two "industry >>correct" ways. >> >>The first and the easiest way to paint plastics would >>be to scrub/scuff with a new red 3M scotch brite and >>ajax/comet, wash clean with soap and water, wax and >>grease remove, blow, tack, apply a high quality clear >>plastic primer (PPG, Dupont, etc..). For durability, >>only use a catalyzed color systems; base coat-clear or >>2k. Flattener can be added for desired gloss at the >>paint store. Assuming you have a 1.4 or less on your >>spray gun tip, apply paint as thin as possible (less >>is best) and If you want to add flex agent, it >>wouldn't hurt but, a high quality paint product will >>do just fine without. I wouldn't compromise all that >>work with cheap paint. >> >>Second way to paint stubborn plastic: Sand parts >>thoroughly with 180 grit, hit missed places with red >>scotch brite pad, wax and grease clean and then prime >>with 2k primer w/ flex add. >> >>After primer is dry, guide coat, sand with 320-400 >>grit dry or, 500-600 grit wet and then follow the >>procedures above. This bumper procedure is old school >>pealing prevention. This had to be done back in the >>day because plastic bumpers used to be hell to paint.. >>Rip it - prime the piss out of it and sand it >>smooth..It's a lot of work! >> >>**Remember, paint with clean compressor air! >> >>John Schwartz >>Owner and Operator of : >>CHROMATECH - 1 >>Mobile Refinishing Service >>http://profiles.yahoo.com/chromatech1 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>__________________________________ >>Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 >>http://mail.yahoo.com >> >> > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > >

[Chromatech1]

Great post John. Now how about a few translations: tack: Short for using a tack rag (dust removal cloth). Also the term "Tacky" is used to describe an early stage of paint cure. 2K (brand name?) :It's an automotive paint term for catalyzed paints and primers. Enamel and urethane both need a hardener for durability and quick drying. "2-katalyze" was an old PPG (Ditzler) marketing label and since PPG brand paint was and is the most popular paint in the world, the "2K" label stuck throughout the industry. flattener: A paint additive that is added to achieve a certain gloss i.e. flat, eggshell, semi-gloss. The more that is added, the flatter the gloss. guide coat: a darker color (mostly black) sprayed over primer to locate imperfections when sanding. The color will be seen when a chip or scratch hasn't been sanded out good enough. Hope this helps, JohnE __________________________________ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com

[Wayne Blackburn]

I've noticed a lot of people have painted there plastic body parts. What is the best type of paint to use? I just installed a new set of acerbis hand guards and I screwed up and order red. It looks all wrong against the aztec kaw red. thanks for your help --------------------------------- You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Wayne Blackburn]

Wayne Blackburn wrote: I've noticed a lot of people have painted there plastic body parts. What is the best type of paint to use? I just installed a new set of acerbis hand guards and I screwed up and order red. It looks all wrong against the aztec kaw red. thanks for your help --------------------------------- You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. --------------------------------- You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Hedrek]

I've scrubbed my plastic with steel wool and sand paper, not in that order. Black is nice and fuzzy. Light doesn't even reflect from it. I'm invisible! --- Wayne Blackburn wrote:

> I've noticed a lot of people have painted there > plastic body parts. > What is the best type of paint to use? > I just installed a new set of acerbis hand guards > and I screwed up and order red. > It looks all wrong against the aztec kaw red. > > thanks for your help > > > --------------------------------- > You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one > month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been > removed] > >

Robert Hedrick Albuquerque, NM ____________________________________________________________________________________ You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com

[Doug Pippin]

Wayne Krylon (other brands also) makes a Fusion paint that's made for plastic in a spray can. I've seen the Krylon Fusion at Walmart and local hardware stores. Lowe's has Valspar plastic paint in spray can and I'm sure Home Depot will have a brand in their paint department. Not much sanding or other prep required other than making sure it's clean. Doug ---------- At 02:56 PM 4/2/2008, you wrote:

>painting plastic > Posted by: "Wayne Blackburn" wayne_blckbrn@... wayne_blckbrn > Date: Tue Apr 1, 2008 5:23 pm ((PDT)) > >I've noticed a lot of people have painted there plastic body parts. > What is the best type of paint to use? > I just installed a new set of acerbis hand guards and I screwed > up and order red. > It looks all wrong against the aztec kaw red. > > thanks for your help

---------- Doug Pippin 828-684-8488 d_pippin_89@... ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Andrus Chesley]

Wayne, In my experience. If I don't want paint on something and it gets there anyway. I can't get it off never!. If I want it there, It won't stick. .. Kidding a little. Just light sand and a good quality paint will work. Think they even have some for plastic. I picked up a can of Flat Black a few years ago for some plastic on my bike and just light sand , clean and spray. Can you believe, it's still there. Andy in Louisiana A14 KLR K6 DLK