nklr pda/gps questions

[ltslpr]

Came back from a weekend camping at Songdog Ranch and decided I'd better do the full maintenance on my '91 KLR before I rode it again, it having been 14.5K miles since I last did much to the bike. For those keeping track, I replaced the first valve shim, exhaust, at 34K miles (0.003 under spec); and, a sparkplug electrode will wear away enough in 14.5K miles to nearly double the gap, yet the motor shows no indication of poor starting/running. My problem: after reassembling everything I find I've got no turn signals - none, at any corner. All other electrics work fine, including headlight low/high, rear running light and brake light. Plus, no dimming of the headlight when toggling the turn signal switch. Not believing in coincidences, I thought I must have accidentally disconnected a wiring connector. Close inspection showed no disconnected or loose (pushed on all of 'em to ensure connection) wiring. Pulled out Kawasaki's shop books, did the indicated turn signal relay test, passed. Did the test of the wiring from the handlebar switch, passed. Took out all four turn signal bulbs, inspected them visually and tested them with my multimeter, all passed. Hooked up my BatteryTender, fully charged the battery and tried the turn signals with the BT still hooked up, failed. Went back and inspected all wiring (concentrating on that nest under the seat, on top of the battery since I had moved the wires during topped up the battery) and above the valve cover. Nothing unusual seen. Any suggestions before I resign myself to using hand signals? Thanks for your assistance, Glenn San Jose, CA

[albatrossklr]

Glen, If your Turn Signal Switch is working properly and your break light & horn work, then I have no other idea... But if your breaklight & horn do not work.. i would try the 10 amp fuse.. That's the only thoughts I have until i drink several more cups of coffee. albatross will be riding later today

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "ltslpr" wrote: > > Came back from a weekend camping at Songdog Ranch and decided I'd > better do the full maintenance on my '91 KLR before I rode it again, > it having been 14.5K miles since I last did much to the bike. > > For those keeping track, I replaced the first valve shim, exhaust, at > 34K miles (0.003 under spec); and, a sparkplug electrode will wear > away enough in 14.5K miles to nearly double the gap, yet the motor > shows no indication of poor starting/running. > > My problem: after reassembling everything I find I've got no turn > signals - none, at any corner. All other electrics work fine, > including headlight low/high, rear running light and brake light. > Plus, no dimming of the headlight when toggling the turn signal switch. > > Not believing in coincidences, I thought I must have accidentally > disconnected a wiring connector. Close inspection showed no > disconnected or loose (pushed on all of 'em to ensure connection) wiring. > > Pulled out Kawasaki's shop books, did the indicated turn signal relay > test, passed. Did the test of the wiring from the handlebar switch, > passed. > > Took out all four turn signal bulbs, inspected them visually and > tested them with my multimeter, all passed. > > Hooked up my BatteryTender, fully charged the battery and tried the > turn signals with the BT still hooked up, failed. > > Went back and inspected all wiring (concentrating on that nest under > the seat, on top of the battery since I had moved the wires during > topped up the battery) and above the valve cover. Nothing unusual seen. > > Any suggestions before I resign myself to using hand signals? > > Thanks for your assistance, > > Glenn > San Jose, CA >

[ocpianoman]

Sounds like you did some good troubleshooting but my immediate intuition would be to start testing the switchgear and wiring. Maybe something got pinched or cut or shorted to ground. Oh, you did say you tested the wiring to/from the switch. Well I'd go over it again. It's not rocket science. If the relay's good, is there 12V supplying the relay? If yes is there blinking 12V showing up at the bulbs? etc..

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "ltslpr" wrote: > > My problem: after reassembling everything I find I've got no turn > signals - none, at any corner. All other electrics work fine, > including headlight low/high, rear running light and brake light. > Plus, no dimming of the headlight when toggling the turn signal switch. > > Not believing in coincidences, I thought I must have accidentally > disconnected a wiring connector. Close inspection showed no > disconnected or loose (pushed on all of 'em to ensure connection) wiring. > > Pulled out Kawasaki's shop books, did the indicated turn signal relay > test, passed. Did the test of the wiring from the handlebar switch, > passed. > > Took out all four turn signal bulbs, inspected them visually and > tested them with my multimeter, all passed. > > Hooked up my BatteryTender, fully charged the battery and tried the > turn signals with the BT still hooked up, failed. > > Went back and inspected all wiring (concentrating on that nest under > the seat, on top of the battery since I had moved the wires during > topped up the battery) and above the valve cover. Nothing unusual seen. > > Any suggestions before I resign myself to using hand signals? > > Thanks for your assistance, > > Glenn > San Jose, CA >

[Greg May]

Hi Glenn....I'm looking at an A9 wiring diagram here but from what I've read they are all the same.....hopefully. Firstly I'm assuming that by not working you mean that they aren't lighting at all and not just not flashng and that your wiring is stock. Since the Black/Yellow ground wire feeds more then one device at each plug containing a signal light feed I'm pretty sure that we can eliminate it being a ground problem. All the voltage checks I'm suggesting need to be done with your multimeter Black lead on Battery negative with your meter set to a 50 volt DC scale, sorry if I'm getting too basic here but I'm not sure of your level of experience so I'll go step by step as I see it. Since all seems to be ok other then you signal lights, I would first turn on the key to the Run position and check for 12 vdc at the Brown wire of your Turn Signal flasher. Next check for 12vdc at the Orange wire of the flasher, 12 vdc there and the problem isn't your flasher. No 12vdc at the Brown you'll have to check further back in the wiring harness, 12vdc at the Brown and not at the Orange and the problem is with the flasher. The Orange wire next goes to the connection plug that supplies your Left Handlebar switches. The Orange wire continues through the connector to the common point of your Left/Right switch. If you have 12 vdc to this point and neither Left and Right are lighting when activated at all I suspect that the problem is in your switch. No 12vdc at the Orange wire here and 12vdc at the Orange wire of your flasher and you have a broken Orange wire in the harness between the connection wire and the flasher. The above mentioned connection plug also contains the switched wires that feed your signal lights, Green for Left and Grey for right. Before taking your handlebar switch assembly apart with the key still on check for 12vdc on the Green wire with the turn switch activated Left, then with the switch activated Right check for 12vdc on the Grey wire. If none of your signal lights are working I suspect that you will find no voltage at either wire. At this point if you indeed have 12vdc at the connector Orange wire and 0vdc at the Green and Grey wires when you activate the Turn switch the problem is in the wiring feeding the Left handlebar Signal switch assembly or in the Turn Switch itself. If this proves to be true, the easiest way to go any further is to switch you meter to it's lowest Ohm scale and see where your open circuit is. I would unplug the above mentioned connector feeding the Left handlebar switch assembly and visually inspect it for damage or corrosion, clean as needed. Next at the side of the connector that feeds the switch and the Turn Signal switch set to Right check for basically 0 ohms between the Orange and Green wires, repeat between Orange and Grey with the switch set to Right. No continuity in either of these checks, which is what I suspect you are going to find pinpoints the problem to your switch assembly. If this is what you find since neither Left or Right is working you will at this point have to take the Switch assembly apart and check for continuity from the Orange wire in the connector to where the Orange wire soldiers on to the common point of the Turn Signal switch. If you have continuity here, and the wire is indeed still soldiered properly you will need to do a continuity check directly across your switch from common, Orange wire to both the Left, Green and Right, Grey contact of your switch. No continuity here and you have a defective or very dirty switch, try cleaning with contact cleaner but remember you need basically 0 Ohms across the contact to prevent voltage drop and reduced voltage, dim lamps at your signal lights. Hopefully by now you have found your problem with or without the help of this, if not give me a little feed back on what you have found and we can try to pinpoint it down.....have a great evening.....Greg ltslpr wrote: Came back from a weekend camping at Songdog Ranch and decided I'd better do the full maintenance on my '91 KLR before I rode it again, it having been 14.5K miles since I last did much to the bike. For those keeping track, I replaced the first valve shim, exhaust, at 34K miles (0.003 under spec); and, a sparkplug electrode will wear away enough in 14.5K miles to nearly double the gap, yet the motor shows no indication of poor starting/running. My problem: after reassembling everything I find I've got no turn signals - none, at any corner. All other electrics work fine, including headlight low/high, rear running light and brake light. Plus, no dimming of the headlight when toggling the turn signal switch. Not believing in coincidences, I thought I must have accidentally disconnected a wiring connector. Close inspection showed no disconnected or loose (pushed on all of 'em to ensure connection) wiring. Pulled out Kawasaki's shop books, did the indicated turn signal relay test, passed. Did the test of the wiring from the handlebar switch, passed. Took out all four turn signal bulbs, inspected them visually and tested them with my multimeter, all passed. Hooked up my BatteryTender, fully charged the battery and tried the turn signals with the BT still hooked up, failed. Went back and inspected all wiring (concentrating on that nest under the seat, on top of the battery since I had moved the wires during topped up the battery) and above the valve cover. Nothing unusual seen. Any suggestions before I resign myself to using hand signals? Thanks for your assistance, Glenn San Jose, CA --------------------------------- Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ltslpr]

Greg, Thank you very much for your time. 1. The bulbs are not lighting at all. 2. The wiring is stock. 3. Probably not a ground problem, as the headlight, tail light, brake light and horn work. 4. "All the voltage checks I'm suggesting need to be done with your multimeter Black lead on Battery negative with your meter set to a 50 volt DC scale, sorry if I'm getting too basic here but I'm not sure of your level of experience so I'll go step by step as I see it." Never an apology necessary for starting at the ground and working up. My multimeter is a Fluke 77, top of the line when I bought it decades ago, and still better than most; no "50VDC scale" though, as it is not an analog meter. 5. Regarding your advice for checking the function of the handlebar turn signal switch, the Kawasaki manual specifies a different procedure: "...connect the (+) meter lead to the brown lead that was disconnected from the relay, and connect the (-) meter lead to the orange lead. With the ignition switch on, first switch the turn signal switch to the R and then to the L position. The meter should register battery voltage at either position." This I did, and observed battery voltage (less ~1VDC drop) for both switch positions. I was happy to see that voltage, too: having taken apart a switchbox on a previous bike, I wasn't looking forward to repeating the experience of reassembling all the small parts (assuming none went AWOL during disassembly, as the springs like to do). A positive result for this test indicated to me the handlebar switch gear and associated wiring was operating satisfactorily. I now realize this may not be the case, see (7) below. 6. Kawasaki's shop manual specifies this test for the turn signal relay: "Unplug the relay leads and use an ohmmeter to check that there is continuity between the relay terminals." Did that, found no resistance. 7. Thanks for the recommendation to check the outgoing wiring, from the switchbox to the lights; that test hadn't occurred to me. This may be the suggestion I need to solve my problem. One reason I omitted thinking of this test is that I'm fixated on the premise I did something while servicing the bike; I hadn't done a thing to the bike, not even washed it, other than the service. And, I never went near the handlebar switchbox. Sunday I've got a reservation with my wife, television and couch, watching the Superbowl. Monday I plan to have another look at the wiring, and do the switch gear and relay tests again. And have another look around. And another beer or two. I'll report back here if I find anything. Now, I'm hoping the problem doesn't turn out to be something stupid I overlooked. My thanks to all for your responses, Glenn San Jose, CA

[ltslpr]

In case anyone's wondering, I haven't gotten back to inspecting the bike, I came down with bronchitis Monday which took out my planned repair day. Now it looks like Sunday or perhaps Monday at the latest for a return to the KLR. Glenn San Jose, CA

[Stephen Grisanti]

The turn signals do use a flasher that is mounted to the right of the frame backbone inboard of the horn. Mine went bad and I bought one for about $3 at Advance Auto that worked fine. Stephen --- ltslpr wrote:

> In case anyone's wondering, I haven't gotten back to > inspecting the > bike, I came down with bronchitis Monday which took > out my planned > repair day. Now it looks like Sunday or perhaps > Monday at the latest > for a return to the KLR. > > Glenn > San Jose, CA > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: > www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: > www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

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[ltslpr]

Hi Stephen,how did you determine the relay was faulty? Did you do the manual test and found resistance between the two terminals? Or was there another indication of failure? My relay tested OK per the manual. Thanks, Glenn San Jose, CA

[Stephen Grisanti]

Glenn, I don't recall precisely and I don't have that bike any longer. I think one side worked and one not so I replaced the bulb and that did not fix it so I tried the flasher and that did. I was not aware that a flasher could "half fail," but the one thing I've learned working on stuff is that you NEVER know what you'll learn. Stephen --- ltslpr wrote:

> Hi Stephen,how did you determine the relay was > faulty? Did you do the > manual test and found resistance between the two > terminals? Or was > there another indication of failure? My relay tested > OK per the manual. > > Thanks, > Glenn > San Jose, CA > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: > www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: > www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

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[ltslpr]

"Not believing in coincidences " Today, experience has shown me that there is such a word as "coincidences" because, indeed, there can be coincidences. First, thank you again, Greg, for your exhaustive analysis of my problem, you took a lot of your time to assist me. And, thank you, Stephen, for giving me the necessary impetus to solve my problem, by informing me that your fix, for a problem different from mine, cost you only $3. Because of your response, I thought that $3 was not much cost to make sure the turn signal relay was not the problem even though the relay tested OK per the manual test. On the way to the auto store it occurred to me (way belatedly) that the manual test wasn't really much of a test, after all; since there was no "positive" signal of operation, but rather only a "negative" signal (no resistance), the relay still could be the cause. And so it was! $3.24 and the bike is now put back together and operating fine. The education here is don't simply do the manual test and move on The secondary education is that we all need a little help to get by. And, there is absolutely no reason that I can think of that I did something to damage the relay. Just a coincidence. Glenn San Jose, CA