[spam][dsn_klr650] seats

[Kyle]

> > Thanks for your response so far guys. > > > > Herewith is a list of things I already checked or did in my > > troubleshooting quest: > > 1) Cleaned and re-oiled the OE air filter (again). > > 2) Changed back and forth between my stock and Big Gun mufflers. > > 3) Backed out the pilot air screw 2 turns from the fully seated > > position. > > 4) Changed the spark plug. > > 5) Checked the routing of all cables to be correct. > > >

I`ll bet you $10.00 that he`s putting too much oil on the air filter!!

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jake Wilson" wrote: > > ~~~Going back and re-reading your orignal post, it sounds like you > > have a loss of compression. I say that as i have recently discovered > > that I have been riding around with a blown cylinder base gasket on > > my Honda Helix scooter. > > Cylinder base gasket doesn't have any effect upon compression in a KLR > 650 -- or, for that matter, in a Honda Helix. Your blown cylinder base > gasket was a symptom (of excessive blow-by past the rings), not a > cause. Now there *is* a case where a blown cylinder base gasket can > cause loss of power -- in a two-stroke single-cylinder motor that uses > crankcase vacuum on the upstroke to suck charge into the crankcase, > then crankcase pressure on the downstroke to send the charge into the > cylinder when the piston falls below the intake/exhaust ports. The > KLR, however, isn't a two-stroke, and neither is your Helix. > > Now, the cylinder *head* gasket can decidedly have an effect upon > compression. Check oil and see if you have water in it, and check your > radiator fluid to see if you have oil in it, these are common symptoms > of a cylinder head gasket gone AWOL on a water-cooled vehicle. But > Suzuki DR650's had bad cylinder base gaskets for seven years before > Suzuki fixed the design, and the only problem it caused was a mess as > oil wept out -- didn't affect the engine power at all. >

Eric, The cylinder base gasket does affect compression ratio. all the best, Mike

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" wrote:

> > > The cylinder base gasket does affect compression ratio. > > all the best, > > Mike >

Just to be clear - I'm writing about the thickness of the gasket affecting compression ratio. Re the original post, I'd suggest checking the valves yourself. all the best, Mike

[Horton Oliphant]

How? He asks in curious sort of way. Alan Mike wrote:

> > The cylinder base gasket does affect compression ratio. > > all the best, > > Mike > >

[Horton Oliphant]

Never mind. You just explained what you meant. Alan Horton Oliphant wrote:

> How? He asks in curious sort of way. Alan > > > Mike wrote: >> The cylinder base gasket does affect compression ratio. >> >> all the best, >> >> Mike >> >> > >

[albatrossklr]

We should mount an expedition to repair this machine and take a few days to visit Kruger.... albatross who would love a bottle of Meerlust Rubicon

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "sef156" wrote: > > > > Hi all, > > I seem to have a problem with my A19, but just can't put my finger > on > > it. I've changed the oil and filter every 5000km, cleaned the air > > filter regularly, and the valves was inspected by a dealer at > 5000km > > and found to be within spec. > > At 15000km I again did my usual oil service, filter cleaning and > > changed the spark plug. Now, up to this time the bike ran great, > and > > gave me a fuel range of about 360km on a tank. > > I went for a test ride after putting everything back together, but > > the bike felt a bit powerless. I also noticed that, when I shut the > > throttle suddenly after hard acceleration at high revs (above about > > 5000rpm) it lags severely for a second or so before returning to > > normal closed throttle deceleration. Its quite difficult to > describe > > (especially since I'm not really english speaking) but almost feels > > like the engine completely cuts out, or as if all fuel delivery or > > spark is momentarily cut. It's bad enough to cause the forks to > > compress, and then returns to normal. > > Even worse is my fuel mileage. I now only get around 250 - 260km > from > > a tank of fuel before going to reserve. > > Any suggestions as to what could be the cause of this would be > > greatly appreciated. > > Thanks again. > > > > Sef, > I think the key to your problem is in this line right here > > snip > > I went for a test ride after putting everything back together, but > > the bike felt a bit powerless. I also noticed that, when I shut the > > throttle suddenly after hard acceleration at high revs (above about > > 5000rpm) it lags severely for a second or so before returning to > > normal closed throttle deceleration. Its quite difficult to > describe > > (especially since I'm not really English speaking) but almost feels > > like the engine completely cuts out, or as if all fuel delivery or > > spark is momentarily cut. > > unsnip > > If everything happened just as you reported, then the problem is self- > induced, i.e. you caused it or contributed to the sluggishness. > > 1) Check that the tank and gas cap is venting correctly > 2) That the vacuum line to the petcock is not crimped; you may not be > getting fuel > 3) With a flash light, look at the screen in the tank at the petcock > 4) On the US models, there is a screen between the air filter and the > carburetor--is that clean and free of debris? > 5) Do you have a fuel filter? Is it free flowing? Take it off and > see if that helps. My bike will not run with a fuel filter. shrug. > It caused me to go to reserve almost 100 miles early, and shortly > afterward, it acted like it had no fuel in the tank, i.e. it died!-- > with 2 gals remaining in the tank. > 6) I would take a look at those valve clearance again. Tight valves > mean that they are not open long enough to get full volumes of > air/fuel into the cylinders. One indication of tight valves, they > often seem to 'suddenly' tighten up, ususally indicated by stalling-- > no run- when coming to a stop sign and it fails to idle. > 7) Is there any chance you damaged plug or plug wire while doing your > maintenance? > 8) Do you have the product SEAFOAM where you live? It is a fuel > additive that works wonders on 'sticky wickets' and dirty carburetors. > 9) Drain the fuel bowl and catch the fluid. Did it contain any > water. > > Do the easy ones first. smile. > > Again, I would suggest that if the bike was running fine before you > did the maintenance, it was something you did to affect fuel or air > flow. > > Let us know what you find out. > > revmaaatin. who has never ridden in South Africa or speak Afrikaans, > but did ride Kaw's last Oct on South Dakota gravel roads with a South > African guest worker >

[Ed Dobson]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kyle" wrote:

> > > > Thanks for your response so far guys. > > > > > > Herewith is a list of things I already checked or did in my > > > troubleshooting quest: > > > 1) Cleaned and re-oiled the OE air filter (again). > > > 2) Changed back and forth between my stock and Big Gun mufflers. > > > 3) Backed out the pilot air screw 2 turns from the fully seated > > > position. > > > 4) Changed the spark plug. > > > 5) Checked the routing of all cables to be correct. > > > > > > > > I`ll bet you $10.00 that he`s putting too much oil on the air filter!! >

Or not removing enough after............ K, in their infinite wisdom, had the gall to say, in part, the following, in the Owner's Manual: "Press the element against a a work-bench to squeeze out the excess oil, then wrap it in a clean rag and squeeze it as dry a possible." ED

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "albatrossklr" wrote:

> > > We should mount an expedition to repair this machine and take a few > days to visit Kruger.... > > albatross > who would love a bottle of Meerlust Rubicon >

I actually have an invitation, smile, it is unfortunate that the invitation requires me to ride a nicely equipped dual-sport BMW 650, so being excessively obsessive-compulsively loyal to the KLR and this body politic, I have politely, declined, cough, cough, cough. revmaaatin. who knows that my Afrikaans riding partner did love riding my KLX300.

[Jake Wilson]

~~~I may have something else going on and will find out when I pull the cylinder, but in the meantime, the oil blowing out from the left side of the cylinder at the base (blown base gasket) has caused an increase in oil consuption (I'm talking about my Helix), a loss of top end power, and a hiccup if you will when i crack the throttle open such as when i enter the interstate Your blown cylinder base

> gasket was a symptom (of excessive blow-by past the rings), not a > cause.

~~~I've had a few people that have been around the Helix theorize that 1), it may have blown due to the air filter getting pluged up causing excessive crankcase pressure. Another theory is the cylinder studs stretched. I'm not going to venture a guess as to why the cylinder base gasket blew on my Helix. All I know is at this point, I have to replace it=:-) FWIW, it's up on my lift, all the Tupperware is off. I just have to find the motivation to pull the top end. With other bikes and scooters running at my disposal, I'm not in a hurry. I'm more of a rider than a mechanic=:-) thanks for your thoughts... Jake Reddick Fla.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jake Wilson" wrote: > > ~~~Going back and re-reading your orignal post, it sounds like you > > have a loss of compression. I say that as i have recently discovered > > that I have been riding around with a blown cylinder base gasket on > > my Honda Helix scooter. > > Cylinder base gasket doesn't have any effect upon compression in a KLR > 650 -- or, for that matter, in a Honda Helix. Your blown cylinder base > gasket was a symptom (of excessive blow-by past the rings), not a > cause. Now there *is* a case where a blown cylinder base gasket can > cause loss of power -- in a two-stroke single-cylinder motor that uses > crankcase vacuum on the upstroke to suck charge into the crankcase, > then crankcase pressure on the downstroke to send the charge into the > cylinder when the piston falls below the intake/exhaust ports. The > KLR, however, isn't a two-stroke, and neither is your Helix. > > Now, the cylinder *head* gasket can decidedly have an effect upon > compression. Check oil and see if you have water in it, and check your > radiator fluid to see if you have oil in it, these are common symptoms > of a cylinder head gasket gone AWOL on a water-cooled vehicle. But > Suzuki DR650's had bad cylinder base gaskets for seven years before > Suzuki fixed the design, and the only problem it caused was a mess as > oil wept out -- didn't affect the engine power at all. >

[Mike Frey]

----- Original Message ----- From: sef156 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 3:11 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] KLR Troubleshooting...help please! I also noticed that, when I shut the throttle suddenly after hard acceleration at high revs (above about 5000rpm) it lags severely for a second or so before returning to normal closed throttle deceleration. Its quite difficult to describe (especially since I'm not really english speaking) but almost feels like the engine completely cuts out, or as if all fuel delivery or spark is momentarily cut. It's bad enough to cause the forks to compress, and then returns to normal. --------------- reply --------------- I think the above part is a key to the problem. Sef: Can you attempt to describe it again? Are you saying that when you let off the throttle at 5000+ RPM, engine revolutions do not instantly begin to decrease? And then after a second or two, the engine braking kicks in, more than it normally would? (your English is fine, by the way) Several have suggested an over-oiled air filter. That's easy to eliminate as a cause - take it out and go for a short ride. Others have suggested valve adjustment. That could be it - checking valve clearance is very easy. There's one more thing I suggest checking: the carb. While servicing it, you could have dislodged something and it's now causing the slide to stick. This could explain why the bike is a couple seconds slow to throttle down - slide stuck "open" - and the opposite with the sluggish performance - slide stuck "closed". In any case, I'm sure that everyone here will want to know what the final solution was..... dfdsgdfs [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]