connie vs gs

DSN_KLR650
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guymanbro@excite.com
Posts: 498
Joined: Fri May 05, 2000 2:51 am

clutch cable replacement

Post by guymanbro@excite.com » Fri Dec 15, 2000 12:21 am

Maybe I routed the new cable wrong? Just comes up the right side of the frame and over the top (between the gas tank and handlebars) and then under the bars to the lever no? dat brooklyn bum

thehowofnow
Posts: 27
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2003 7:17 am

clutch cable replacement

Post by thehowofnow » Tue Oct 21, 2003 6:45 am

I had the adventure of my clutch cable breaking on my way home from work the other day. This is a great way to be fully and completely 'in the moment', I must say. I actually made it all the way home and pulled right up my barn ... I've never replaced the clutch cable. Is there any particular protocol I should follow or anything I should know about doing it? Many thanks. JFoust Housatonic,

Allan Patton
Posts: 370
Joined: Sat May 11, 2002 3:22 pm

clutch cable replacement

Post by Allan Patton » Tue Oct 21, 2003 8:00 am

----- Original Message -----
> I've never replaced the clutch cable. Is there any particular > protocol I should follow or anything I should know about doing it? >
Order the clutch cable from Fred. It's not much, if any higher priced than the one from Kawasaki and it's a better quality cable. Then put the new cable in place beside the old one before switching the cable ends. Very easy. Allan A14 http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html

Allan Patton
Posts: 370
Joined: Sat May 11, 2002 3:22 pm

clutch cable replacement

Post by Allan Patton » Tue Oct 21, 2003 8:10 am

> Order the clutch cable from Fred. It's not much, if any higher priced
than
> the one from Kawasaki and it's a better quality cable. Then put the new > cable in place beside the old one before switching the cable ends. Very > easy. > Allan A14 > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html >
Forgot the part number. Terminator Clutch Cable 12-7152

jacodebr7545
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 11:09 pm

clutch cable replacement

Post by jacodebr7545 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:21 pm

I broke my (second) clutch cable, luckily in the stable, and not somewhere out there. I went to my local shop, and they called the Kawa dealer on the phone, and a new clutch cable would cost abt. $45,- I waited six days, and no clutch cable came, they called again, the dealer has no clutch cables in stock. By now I had discovered that it is not necessary to buy a complete clutch cable from Kawa, one can replace the steel cable only, generic steel cable, cost ONE DOLLAR, and shove it inside the old cable sleeve. Some of the rubber of the old cable unit had deteriorated due to the proximity of the exhaust pipe, so I improvised with heat resistant red silicone, and aluminum wrap from my wife s kitchen. I made sure that the whole is lubricated, greased and oiled in excess. On the engine end I will have to put a special screw-on stop. They sell that too, less than a dollar I would say. Is this procedure normal, well known, or is it third-world cheap-skating? It seems to me that the stock steel cable is rather thin for this kind of bike, they had a much thicker cable at the store, but it would not go into the old sleeve. Is the clutch cable from Fred same as stock, or is it sturdier and better quality? Is it normal that the 1" lowering links may cause the swingarm and the muffler to touch? I feel that I have spent enough on this bike, and do not want to invest in new springs or shocks. I like the lower seat height, I brought it down from stock 89 cm to 84 cm, and it has advantages off road in stability and more effective feet contact. But it seems that the spring is a bit weak for this farkle. It is as the world famous soccer player Johan Cruyff so wisely put it: Everything that has its fore, has its against. I thought I should share this, even if only for entertainment and chuckles. I am listening for your wisdom. Jake.

Andrus Chesley
Posts: 573
Joined: Tue Mar 06, 2001 2:40 pm

clutch cable replacement

Post by Andrus Chesley » Thu Jan 24, 2008 3:51 am

A good habit is to always keep a spare in stock if not premounted on the bike along side of the present one. Ditto for a Throttle cable ( at least the pull one ). That effort generally means they won't break for a long long time because you are prepared for it ;-) . Also , I lube all when ever I put it on the bench to change oil/filter, etc. Also, They come up on Ebay pretty cheap at times, I think I got my last one from Fred several years back. '43 Andy in Louisiana '00 KLR 650 '03 Chevy truck '06 DL1000

Ed Dobson
Posts: 102
Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 6:50 am

clutch cable replacement

Post by Ed Dobson » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:13 am

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "jacodebr7545" wrote:
> > I broke my (second) clutch cable, luckily in the stable, and not > somewhere out there. I went to my local shop, and they called the > Kawa dealer on the phone, and a new clutch cable would cost abt. $45,- > I waited six days, and no clutch cable came, they called again, the > dealer has no clutch cables in stock. By now I had discovered that > it is not necessary to buy a complete clutch cable from Kawa, one can > replace the steel cable only, generic steel cable, cost ONE DOLLAR, > and shove it inside the old cable sleeve. > Some of the rubber of the old cable unit had deteriorated due to the > proximity of the exhaust pipe, so I improvised with heat resistant > red silicone, and aluminum wrap from my wife s kitchen. I made sure > that the whole is lubricated, greased and oiled in excess. On the > engine end I will have to put a special screw-on stop. They sell > that too, less than a dollar I would say. Is this procedure normal, > well known, or is it third-world cheap-skating? It seems to me that > the stock steel cable is rather thin for this kind of bike, they had > a much thicker cable at the store, but it would not go into the old > sleeve. > Is the clutch cable from Fred same as stock, or is it sturdier and > better quality? > Is it normal that the 1" lowering links may cause the swingarm and > the muffler to touch? I feel that I have spent enough on this bike, > and do not want to invest in new springs or shocks. > I like the lower seat height, I brought it down from stock 89 cm to > 84 cm, and it has advantages off road in stability and more effective > feet contact. But it seems that the spring is a bit weak for this > farkle. It is as the world famous soccer player Johan Cruyff so > wisely put it: Everything that has its fore, has its against. > I thought I should share this, even if only for entertainment and > chuckles. I am listening for your wisdom. Jake. >
http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/KLR%20650%20Hydraulic%20Clutch.htm :-) ED

revmaaatin
Posts: 1727
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 3:07 pm

connie vs gs

Post by revmaaatin » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:47 am

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "tom" wrote:
> > after doing some research and with all of your help i've decided to
keep with the KLR /
> Connie Combo. it never fails, every time the cold of winter sets
in i get to thinking of the
> "what ifs?" with the KLR and COnnie it's the best of both worlds
with low / no / easy
> maintenance with a fraction of the cost. not to count out a beamer
somewhere down the
> line, maybe an 1150 or an older airhead, but i think it's best i
stick with what i have and know
> for now. thanx for all your helpful knowledge and insights. > > tom >
Tom, And I thought I might be seeing a Connie in my driveway after reading the way this post was going. ZG1000 is in my ebay favorites. You are experiencing the full-throws of motorcycle disease. Similar to gun-disease, boat-disease, and airplane-disease, but it seems to have very few known cures--locking the checkbook/credit card in a safe somewhere will slow it down, but rarely stops its insidious encroachment against, cough, work. And the KLR choir may now sing, A-Men. revmaaatin. an unrepentant, backsliding motorcycle addict

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