footpeg bracket strengthening: a different approach

[a14@att.net]

> What if you never lube your cables? 46,000 miles on each of my bikes. > Might try Jennifer fish oil. > > Criswell >

If your bikes have never had the clutch cables lubed in 46,000 miles and move easily then you must not ride in the rain. All it takes is one good torrential downpour ridden in at highway speeds to wash out the lube in the cable. I don't like Jennifer fish oil. Draws too many flies. Try Orville Reddenbachers Buttery Flavored Popping Oil. Lubes during the day and the critters clean it up at night. Walt

[JAMES BUCK]

Thanks for the response, Walt! What should the free play for the lever on the case look/feel like? I don't think I have any play in that lever (sounds like a personal problem). I'm starting to suspect a hanging cable (no jokes, please). James a14@... wrote: When was the last time you lubed the cable? Even a new cable will hang if it is dry. First try lubing the cable. Now let's check it out starting at the clutch lever. It needs to have some free play to take the presure off the cable or the clutch may slip. You can only have too much free play when you pull the lever to the handgrip and the clutch does not fully disengage. Do you have freeplay at the clutch lever? If so check the lever at the right side case for freeplay. Do you have it there? If not your cable is hanging up and needs to be replaced. You alredy took care of the other reason it may hang up when you lubed it. If it has free play at the case lever and still slips the clutch plates are worn and need to be replaced. You can't always go by mileage. It depends on how the clutch was used or abused. Also forget about the oil factor. The KLR has a robust clutch such that any automotive oil will not cause it to slip if it is in good condition. Walt [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[a14@att.net]

> Thanks for the response, Walt! What should the free play for the lever on the > case look/feel like? I don't think I have any play in that lever (sounds like a > personal problem). I'm starting to suspect a hanging cable (no jokes, please). > > James >

You should be able to wiggle the lever easily back and forth a bit. If the cable is applying tension to it it wont wiggle and you have no free play. This can cause the clutch to begin to disengage (slip). Your use ot the terms are reversed. When the clutch is engaged it connects the engine to the transmission. Disengaged disconnects the engine from the transmission. Walt

[JAMES BUCK]

Thanks for the clarification, and I apologize for all the confusion. I just went down and checked, and it appears that the case lever is under tesion. No free play. No wiggle. It looks like the cable warrants some scrutiny at this point. I really appreciate all of you taking the time to help out an obvious noob. James in Dallas a14@... wrote:

> Thanks for the response, Walt! What should the free play for the lever on the > case look/feel like? I don't think I have any play in that lever (sounds like a > personal problem). I'm starting to suspect a hanging cable (no jokes, please). > > James >

You should be able to wiggle the lever easily back and forth a bit. If the cable is applying tension to it it wont wiggle and you have no free play. This can cause the clutch to begin to disengage (slip). Your use ot the terms are reversed. When the clutch is engaged it connects the engine to the transmission. Disengaged disconnects the engine from the transmission. Walt [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Nov 13, 2007, at 12:42 PM, JAMES BUCK wrote:

> When I say "engage the clutch" I am referring to the act of > pulling the clutch hand lever in so that the bike idles while in > gear. I am using the term "disengage" to mean the opposite: that > the clutch has been released, allowing the transmission to "do its > thing" and propel the bike.

Doh! James, that's backwards. When you pull in the clutch lever you're dis-engaging the clutch; when you release the clutch lever you're engaging the clutch. The clutch should be fully engaged when riding, except for when you want to shift gears or you're at a complete stop with the bike in gear. My vote is for a sticky clutch cable. Disconnect the cable from both ends. Spray Cable Life (or similar spray lubricant--while I'm a huge fan of WD-40, it's not the best option for this application) from the handlebar end of the cable until it runs out the lower (clutch) end. You should be able to *easily* slide the cable back and forth inside the cable's sheath. If you can't, it's time for a new cable. Lube the new cable, too, before installing. Good luck! -- Blake Sobiloff http://www.sobiloff.com/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[JAMES BUCK]

Thanks for your time and the tip, Blake! I'll start on that cable as soon as I can. James - feelin' like a noob, a boob and a goob, but I won't forget the loob.... Blake Sobiloff wrote:

On Nov 13, 2007, at 12:42 PM, JAMES BUCK wrote: > When I say "engage the clutch" I am referring to the act of > pulling the clutch hand lever in so that the bike idles while in > gear. I am using the term "disengage" to mean the opposite: that > the clutch has been released, allowing the transmission to "do its > thing" and propel the bike. Doh! James, that's backwards. When you pull in the clutch lever you're dis-engaging the clutch; when you release the clutch lever you're engaging the clutch. The clutch should be fully engaged when riding, except for when you want to shift gears or you're at a complete stop with the bike in gear. My vote is for a sticky clutch cable. Disconnect the cable from both ends. Spray Cable Life (or similar spray lubricant--while I'm a huge fan of WD-40, it's not the best option for this application) from the handlebar end of the cable until it runs out the lower (clutch) end. You should be able to *easily* slide the cable back and forth inside the cable's sheath. If you can't, it's time for a new cable. Lube the new cable, too, before installing. Good luck! -- Blake Sobiloff http://www.sobiloff.com/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 13:35:40 -0800 (PST) JAMES BUCK writes:

> Thanks for your time and the tip, Blake! I'll start on that cable as > soon as I can. > > James - feelin' like a noob, a boob and a goob, but I won't forget > the loob....

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> James, Sounds like you're getting this figured out now. You got some really good replies on use of engage and disengage. Since it sounds like you've gotten pretty good with the clutch cable adjustment I suggest you disconnect it for your inspection and lube. Don't pull it out of the bike yet though. If it's bad you can probably more easily run your replacement by taping it to one end of the currently inplace cable and then pulling it through the frame etc. I got a replacement cable from Fred at www.arrowheadmotorsports.com a few years ago. My stock cable seemed fine but I wanted to make sure I didn't have an issue on De Tour with Steve. I got the heavy duty cable he sells. Back then I think it was $29. Well worth it in my estimation. For the check maybe you could disconnect the cable at the engine. Then holding onto the end that normally is connected to the lever at the case you could put some tension on it. This isn't I'm getting ready to pull an ATV out of the mud tension but just enough so you can feel the other end of the cable. A couple of fingers on it will do. Then with your other hand work the clutch lever in and out (disengage and engage) a few times. Kind of a pull at one end then pull at the other end type of action. See and feel if the cable moves smoothly and the same amount each time. Then you can also disconnect the cable from the lever at the handlebar and clean the hole in the lever and wipe the end of the cable clean. If you are going to lube the cable now would be a good time to do that. One drop of engine oil on the end of the cable before you reinstall it in the lever would be good. Make sure the barrel on the end of the cable that fits in the lever hole rotates easily with each movement of the clutch lever. If the barrel is sticking in the lever hole fix it. If you don't you'll be flexing the end of the clutch cable each time you move the lever and that will soon cause the cable to fray, snap or cause other unpleasant issues. Finally make sure you adjust your cable by the book so you get the lever angle correct at the case. Make sure you also get a straight pull at the case. On Hugh's brand new 2006 with zero miles on it bike last spring the cable was crooked from the dealer/factory. It only took about 1 minute to fix that problem. Then test it a few times before starting the engine so you know what it feels like and are certain the cable is working correctly and adjusted properly. Let us know how it goes with the cable inspection and adjustment. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Greg May]

Hi James...I guess pretty much everyone like me agrees the problem is in the cable....I would check the little rubber gator on the cable end where it ataches to the case lever, I've never had trouble on my KLR but I have had this gator split on one or the ribs on my KDX and start binding because of grit getting pulled up into the outer cable....light oil and a cable luber will flush it for a while but a replacement cable without a torn gator is the only real cure....Hopefully it's this simple....have a great evening.....Greg prodxn wrote: Hey, all - I've had a 2001 for a year, and I've put about 4K smiles on since I got it. The cluth started slipping about 2 weeks ago, and I've been adjusting it on the right side case since then. Every time I adjust the cable down there, I get the same behavior afterward: - Clutch works well and engine pulls strong as it's supposed to. - The clutch disengages(?) at the end of the lever's travel. I don't care for this, but I understand that's "normal" for the KLR's clutch. - After riding for 50 miles or so, I can start to feel the clutch beginning to slip ever-so-slightly, once again. - Slippage is really bad when bike is first started (cold), but it gets a little better as the engine gets up to operating temp. Now, I am out of adjustment space - I am completely at the front end of the adjustment threads, and I have to nurse it along as the slipping is so pronounced. The slipping occurs in all gears. When I'm in 3rd, 4th and 5th, it will slip if I barely even blip the throttle. If I continue to increase RPMs while staying out of the red, the clutch will eventually disengage and the engine will pull strongly, as it should. I need your collective wisdom, group. Is it time for a new clutch assembly? New clutch cable? Help me! I'm at the end of my rope (err...cable)! BTW, it's been about 1300 miles since my last oil change, in case that matters(Rotella T dino 15W-40). TIA, James in Dallas --------------------------------- Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ronald Criswell]

I don't make a habit of riding in rain but have rode all day in it a few times in a monsoon usually on the Concourse. Criswell

On Nov 13, 2007, at 2:46 PM, a14@... wrote: > > What if you never lube your cables? 46,000 miles on each of my > bikes. > > Might try Jennifer fish oil. > > > > Criswell > > > > If your bikes have never had the clutch cables lubed in 46,000 miles > and move easily then you must not ride in the rain. All it takes is > one good torrential downpour ridden in at highway speeds to wash out > the lube in the cable. > > I don't like Jennifer fish oil. Draws too many flies. Try Orville > Reddenbachers Buttery Flavored Popping Oil. Lubes during the day and > the critters clean it up at night. > > Walt > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[JAMES BUCK]

Wow, Jeff, Thanks for the step-by-step! And thanks to everyone for the thoughts, advice, comments, etc. This community was one of the driving factors in my decision to purchase a KLR, and I'm sincerely grateful to those of you who took time out of your day to help a noob with such a rudimentary issue as this. I'll let y'all know how it comes out..... James

On Nov 13, 2007, at 3:54 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Tue, 13 Nov 2007 13:35:40 -0800 (PST) JAMES BUCK > writes: > > Thanks for your time and the tip, Blake! I'll start on that cable as > > soon as I can. > > > > James - feelin' like a noob, a boob and a goob, but I won't forget > > the loob.... > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > James, > > Sounds like you're getting this figured out now. You got some really > good replies on use of engage and disengage. > > Since it sounds like you've gotten pretty good with the clutch cable > adjustment I suggest you disconnect it for your inspection and lube. > Don't pull it out of the bike yet though. If it's bad you can probably > more easily run your replacement by taping it to one end of the > currently > inplace cable and then pulling it through the frame etc. I got a > replacement cable from Fred at www.arrowheadmotorsports.com a few > years > ago. My stock cable seemed fine but I wanted to make sure I didn't > have > an issue on De Tour with Steve. I got the heavy duty cable he sells. > Back then I think it was $29. Well worth it in my estimation. > > For the check maybe you could disconnect the cable at the engine. Then > holding onto the end that normally is connected to the lever at the > case > you could put some tension on it. This isn't I'm getting ready to pull > an ATV out of the mud tension but just enough so you can feel the > other > end of the cable. A couple of fingers on it will do. Then with your > other hand work the clutch lever in and out (disengage and engage) a > few > times. Kind of a pull at one end then pull at the other end type of > action. See and feel if the cable moves smoothly and the same amount > each time. Then you can also disconnect the cable from the lever at > the > handlebar and clean the hole in the lever and wipe the end of the > cable > clean. If you are going to lube the cable now would be a good time to > do > that. One drop of engine oil on the end of the cable before you > reinstall it in the lever would be good. Make sure the barrel on the > end > of the cable that fits in the lever hole rotates easily with each > movement of the clutch lever. If the barrel is sticking in the lever > hole fix it. If you don't you'll be flexing the end of the clutch > cable > each time you move the lever and that will soon cause the cable to > fray, > snap or cause other unpleasant issues. > > Finally make sure you adjust your cable by the book so you get the > lever > angle correct at the case. Make sure you also get a straight pull at > the > case. On Hugh's brand new 2006 with zero miles on it bike last spring > the cable was crooked from the dealer/factory. It only took about 1 > minute to fix that problem. Then test it a few times before starting > the > engine so you know what it feels like and are certain the cable is > working correctly and adjusted properly. > > Let us know how it goes with the cable inspection and adjustment. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]