footpeg bracket strengthening: a different approach

[Tumu Rock]

So here's a rehash of my symptoms. I developed a minor slip under heavy load at higher rpms (uphill above 4K rpm) just prior to my clutch cable breaking. After replacing the cable, I had to adjust the nuts on the engine side of the cable all the way forward (the most slack possible). The further I adjusted, the less it slipped. I'm now out of adjustment and still have a very minor slip on uphills. One lister suggested it might just be the springs, and another said replacing the springs might work for a while but I probably ought to replace the plates as long as I'm in there. It just seems unlikely that the plates could wear so quickly (less than 2 weeks since original symptom was noticed). Does the all-knowing list concur that I should just do the whole she-bang as long as I'm inside? Thanks in advance, dat brooklyn bum _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/

[Fred Hink]

[b]Sounds like all that is left is to check your clutch plates.  Springs are cheap but it doesn't take much longer to pull the clutch plates while you are in there.  I sell the clutch plates and springs in a kit for about $80  Make sure you get enough plates if your bike is a 96 or newer.  EBC only has 7 plates in their kits and later bikes will need 8.  The EBC kits I sell have the 7 friction plates and steel plates along with the springs.  I sell individual friction plates if you need 8.[/b] [b][/b]  [b]Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com '00 VFR800FI '00 XR650R (2)'94 XR650L 4 sale '94 XR250L 4 sale (300 mi) '78 Z1-R 4 sale[/b] [b][/b] 

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] guymanbro@... [b]To:[/b] DSN_klr650@egroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, January 05, 2001 12:23 AM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_klr650] clutch slippage So here's a rehash of my symptoms. I developed a minor slip under heavy load at higher rpms (uphill above 4K rpm) just prior to my clutch cable breaking. After replacing the cable, I had to adjust the nuts on the engine side of the cable all the way forward (the most slack possible). The further I adjusted, the less it slipped. I'm now out of adjustment and still have a very minor slip on uphills. One lister suggested it might just be the springs, and another said replacing the springs might work for a while but I probably ought to replace the plates as long as I'm in there. It just seems unlikely that the plates could wear so quickly (less than 2 weeks since original symptom was noticed). Does the all-knowing list concur that I should just do the whole she-bang as long as I'm inside? Thanks in advance, dat brooklyn bum _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/ Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

[jirvine@nmsu.edu]

At 12:23 AM 1/5/01 -0800, Tumu Rock wrote:

>Does the all-knowing list concur that I >should just do the whole she-bang as long as I'm inside? > >Thanks in advance, > >dat brooklyn bum > >Probably easy to just replace the springs, haven't done it myself. If >that doesn't then throw in plate. How many miles?? My Ford Ranger had a >clutch go almost instantly. One day it was fine, next day, nada. >_______________________________________________________ >Send a cool gift with your E-Card >http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/ > > > >Visit the KLR650 archives at >http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 >Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... >Let's keep this list SPAM free! > >Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

[Dash Weeks]

Figure on $70-$100 (depending on where you buy) for pads and plates. Another $15-$20 for heavy duty springs. Less than $10 for a cover gasket. $6-$8 for a six pack of quality beer. Personally, I would do just the springs first. Mic the plates and pads while you are in there, button it all up and if you need the pads and plates then order them. In a week when they come in then do it all over again. OTOH, consider your time. If an extra hour worth of work is worth $70-$100 + $10 + $8 then by all means do it all at once. If you didn't need pads and plates though, think of all the beer you could buy with that money you saved. My experience in there has been that the plates and pads were in spec and the stock springs were terribly tired. Don't buy stock, they are only a smidgen cheaper and they are a whole lot worse than.... say... Barnett parts. Good Luck LaterZ Dash At 12:23 AM 1/5/2001 -0800, Tumu Rock wrote:

>So here's a rehash of my symptoms. I developed a minor slip under heavy load >at higher rpms (uphill above 4K rpm) just prior to my clutch cable breaking. >After replacing the cable, I had to adjust the nuts on the engine side of >the cable all the way forward (the most slack possible). The further I >adjusted, the less it slipped. I'm now out of adjustment and still have a >very minor slip on uphills. One lister suggested it might just be the >springs, and another said replacing the springs might work for a while but I >probably ought to replace the plates as long as I'm in there. It just seems >unlikely that the plates could wear so quickly (less than 2 weeks since >original symptom was noticed). Does the all-knowing list concur that I >should just do the whole she-bang as long as I'm inside? > >Thanks in advance, > >dat brooklyn bum

[prodxn]

Hey, all - I've had a 2001 for a year, and I've put about 4K smiles on since I got it. The cluth started slipping about 2 weeks ago, and I've been adjusting it on the right side case since then. Every time I adjust the cable down there, I get the same behavior afterward: - Clutch works well and engine pulls strong as it's supposed to. - The clutch disengages(?) at the end of the lever's travel. I don't care for this, but I understand that's "normal" for the KLR's clutch. - After riding for 50 miles or so, I can start to feel the clutch beginning to slip ever-so-slightly, once again. - Slippage is really bad when bike is first started (cold), but it gets a little better as the engine gets up to operating temp. Now, I am out of adjustment space - I am completely at the front end of the adjustment threads, and I have to nurse it along as the slipping is so pronounced. The slipping occurs in all gears. When I'm in 3rd, 4th and 5th, it will slip if I barely even blip the throttle. If I continue to increase RPMs while staying out of the red, the clutch will eventually disengage and the engine will pull strongly, as it should. I need your collective wisdom, group. Is it time for a new clutch assembly? New clutch cable? Help me! I'm at the end of my rope (err...cable)! BTW, it's been about 1300 miles since my last oil change, in case that matters(Rotella T dino 15W-40). TIA, James in Dallas

[Fred Hink]

How much freeplay do you have in your clutch cable? You should have about 3/4" or so free movement in your clutch lever before the clutch cable is tight. Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com

----- Original Message ----- From: prodxn To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:07 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] clutch slippage Hey, all - I've had a 2001 for a year, and I've put about 4K smiles on since I got it. The cluth started slipping about 2 weeks ago, and I've been adjusting it on the right side case since then. Every time I adjust the cable down there, I get the same behavior afterward: - Clutch works well and engine pulls strong as it's supposed to. - The clutch disengages(?) at the end of the lever's travel. I don't care for this, but I understand that's "normal" for the KLR's clutch. - After riding for 50 miles or so, I can start to feel the clutch beginning to slip ever-so-slightly, once again. - Slippage is really bad when bike is first started (cold), but it gets a little better as the engine gets up to operating temp. Now, I am out of adjustment space - I am completely at the front end of the adjustment threads, and I have to nurse it along as the slipping is so pronounced. The slipping occurs in all gears. When I'm in 3rd, 4th and 5th, it will slip if I barely even blip the throttle. If I continue to increase RPMs while staying out of the red, the clutch will eventually disengage and the engine will pull strongly, as it should. I need your collective wisdom, group. Is it time for a new clutch assembly? New clutch cable? Help me! I'm at the end of my rope (err...cable)! BTW, it's been about 1300 miles since my last oil change, in case that matters(Rotella T dino 15W-40). TIA, James in Dallas [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[JAMES BUCK]

Hey, Fred.... That's about what I've got. I've adjusted at the lever from 2-3mm play all the way out to almost an inch, I'd say, and the clutch behavior doesn't seem to be any different at either extreme. Fred Hink wrote: How much freeplay do you have in your clutch cable? You should have about 3/4" or so free movement in your clutch lever before the clutch cable is tight. Fred www.arrowheadmotorsports.com

----- Original Message ----- From: prodxn To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:07 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] clutch slippage Hey, all - I've had a 2001 for a year, and I've put about 4K smiles on since I got it. The cluth started slipping about 2 weeks ago, and I've been adjusting it on the right side case since then. Every time I adjust the cable down there, I get the same behavior afterward: - Clutch works well and engine pulls strong as it's supposed to. - The clutch disengages(?) at the end of the lever's travel. I don't care for this, but I understand that's "normal" for the KLR's clutch. - After riding for 50 miles or so, I can start to feel the clutch beginning to slip ever-so-slightly, once again. - Slippage is really bad when bike is first started (cold), but it gets a little better as the engine gets up to operating temp. Now, I am out of adjustment space - I am completely at the front end of the adjustment threads, and I have to nurse it along as the slipping is so pronounced. The slipping occurs in all gears. When I'm in 3rd, 4th and 5th, it will slip if I barely even blip the throttle. If I continue to increase RPMs while staying out of the red, the clutch will eventually disengage and the engine will pull strongly, as it should. I need your collective wisdom, group. Is it time for a new clutch assembly? New clutch cable? Help me! I'm at the end of my rope (err...cable)! BTW, it's been about 1300 miles since my last oil change, in case that matters(Rotella T dino 15W-40). TIA, James in Dallas [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ed Dobson]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "prodxn" wrote:

> > Hey, all - > > I've had a 2001 for a year, and I've put about 4K smiles on since I > got it. The cluth started slipping about 2 weeks ago, and I've been > adjusting it on the right side case since then. > > Every time I adjust the cable down there, I get the same behavior > afterward: > - Clutch works well and engine pulls strong as it's supposed to. > - The clutch disengages(?) at the end of the lever's travel. I don't > care for this, but I understand that's "normal" for the KLR's clutch. > - After riding for 50 miles or so, I can start to feel the clutch > beginning to slip ever-so-slightly, once again. > - Slippage is really bad when bike is first started (cold), but it > gets a little better as the engine gets up to operating temp. > > Now, I am out of adjustment space - I am completely at the front end > of the adjustment threads, and I have to nurse it along as the > slipping is so pronounced. The slipping occurs in all gears. When > I'm in 3rd, 4th and 5th, it will slip if I barely even blip the > throttle. If I continue to increase RPMs while staying out of the > red, the clutch will eventually disengage and the engine will pull > strongly, as it should. > > I need your collective wisdom, group. Is it time for a new clutch > assembly? New clutch cable? Help me! I'm at the end of my rope > (err...cable)! > > BTW, it's been about 1300 miles since my last oil change, in case > that matters(Rotella T dino 15W-40). > > TIA, > James in Dallas >

James, How many miles on the cable and clutch? Make sure your cable and everything in it's path is installed properly and functioning as it should. You can adjust the cable at both ends. Follow owner's or repair manual instructions. If the cable is suspect, replace it. It could be stretched; or corroded, snapping strands and stretching at each adjustment until it breaks completely. If it ain't the cable, it must be something in the clutch. ED

[Michael Nelson]

What oil are you using in the engine? -- "It's not what I don't understand about religion that bothers me, it's what I do understand." -- Mark Twain San Francisco, CA

[JAMES BUCK]

Thanks for the reply, Ed! I've adjusted the cable on both ends as per Clymer, but I'm just not seeing any improvement over time. That is to say, I get good results for about 50 miles or so, and then the clutch starts slipping again and gets progressively worse. I guess what I'm looking for is someone who's had similar issues and how they cured the problem. I'm assuming that the clutch and cable are original to the bike. I am the 3rd owner. The 2nd owner didn't mention changing the clutch/cable. In fact, I don't think he changed anything but the gas. I don't know who the original owner was. I need some opinions, here. I feel like I've adjusted the cable to its limit without any benefit. Should I replace the cable and see if that helps, and then reevaluate after that? Thanks! James in Dallas Ed Dobson wrote:

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "prodxn" wrote: > > Hey, all - > > I've had a 2001 for a year, and I've put about 4K smiles on since I > got it. The cluth started slipping about 2 weeks ago, and I've been > adjusting it on the right side case since then. > > Every time I adjust the cable down there, I get the same behavior > afterward: > - Clutch works well and engine pulls strong as it's supposed to. > - The clutch disengages(?) at the end of the lever's travel. I don't > care for this, but I understand that's "normal" for the KLR's clutch. > - After riding for 50 miles or so, I can start to feel the clutch > beginning to slip ever-so-slightly, once again. > - Slippage is really bad when bike is first started (cold), but it > gets a little better as the engine gets up to operating temp. > > Now, I am out of adjustment space - I am completely at the front end > of the adjustment threads, and I have to nurse it along as the > slipping is so pronounced. The slipping occurs in all gears. When > I'm in 3rd, 4th and 5th, it will slip if I barely even blip the > throttle. If I continue to increase RPMs while staying out of the > red, the clutch will eventually disengage and the engine will pull > strongly, as it should. > > I need your collective wisdom, group. Is it time for a new clutch > assembly? New clutch cable? Help me! I'm at the end of my rope > (err...cable)! > > BTW, it's been about 1300 miles since my last oil change, in case > that matters(Rotella T dino 15W-40). > > TIA, > James in Dallas > James, How many miles on the cable and clutch? Make sure your cable and everything in it's path is installed properly and functioning as it should. You can adjust the cable at both ends. Follow owner's or repair manual instructions. If the cable is suspect, replace it. It could be stretched; or corroded, snapping strands and stretching at each adjustment until it breaks completely. If it ain't the cable, it must be something in the clutch. ED [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]