plastic for 06

[CA Stu]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud Jones" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "James Morrow Sr"

wrote:

> > > > Lots of different info on this. I go with what the chain

manufactures say,

> > since they make it. > > > > Clean with kerosene, wipe dry, and lube with any good specified

chain lube.

> > I use Honda chain lube with moly and teflon, the two best metal

to metal

> > lubricants I know of. > > > > My chains last 25,000 on a Hayabusa, arguably the most detremental > > motorcycle to a chain (G). > > Think my KLR will last as long too. > > > > Be sure and let us know when it wears out. There is still no chain

treatment regimen that has

> been shown to give longer chain life than regular lavings of WD40. > > My KLR chain with 90w ground itself to metal dust in about 5000

miles. With WD, they go just

> about 20,000. >

I am a fan of the WD-40 often to clean and then chain wax occasionally to lube routine. I get about 12k miles per chain. Thanks CA Stu

[RM]

On Thu, 11 Oct 2007 22:14:40 -0000, "Jud Jones" said:

> Be sure and let us know when it wears out. There is still no chain > treatment regimen that has been shown to give longer chain life than > regular lavings of WD40.

Agreed. There are two methods: 1. Automatic chain oiler 2. Manual lube using ______ product. Fill in the blank with whatever, it makes no difference. WD-40 works for me. RM

[James Morrow Sr]

the only incoming flak is that for sure the chain link is lubricated and sealed for itself by the oring seal. What the oring seal does not do is lubricate the metal to metal contact of the chain links and sprockets. Don't know what "Pro's" you are talking about, but the pro racers in any division, use plenty of chain lube for sure.

On 10/11/07, Mike Peplinski wrote: > > > I did a bit of research on this one. Chain maintenance is one of the most > often discussed subjects, yet the answer, or "truth" is pretty basic. This > is from a link to one of the chain makers, by the way. > An "O" ring or "X" ring chain is permanently lubricated. That's what the > rubber ring does. It seals the grease in and the dirt and water out. All you > have to do is keep it clean and rust free. You don't really have to > lubricate it at all. WD40 works great for keeping water off the chain. All > the gunk, grease, oil and wax does is collect dust and grime, which ini turn > wears out the links. > > So, according to the pro's, lubrication is not necessary. Just clean and > rust proof the chain. > ( I can hear the flack now; "incoming, incoming") > > http://onecare.live.com/standard/en-us/purchase/trial.aspx?s_cid=wl_hotmailnews > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > -- James Morrow Sr Union, MO '00' RT + dual plug + Bunkhouse '00' BUSA + 15hp '05' KLR650 + big fun factor [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "James Morrow Sr" wrote:

> > the only incoming flak is that for sure the chain link is lubricated and > sealed for itself by the oring seal. What the oring seal does not do is > lubricate the metal to metal contact of the chain links and sprockets. >

Neither does anything else, as far as I can tell, unless it is delivered in a continual flow, as with a chain oiler. Lube your chain, ride it six blocks to the coffee shop, and see how much lubricant remains on the rollers and bearing surfaces of the sprockets. You lube your chain how often?

[gmay131313]

Hi Jud, for many years now I've used Bel-Ray foaming chain lube and whether or not it's better then WD-40 which I'll experiment with for a while when I replace my chain or not time will tell if it's as good or not. My 04 now has 15000kms on it and the original chain should easily finish out next year which should equal 20 - 25000kms and perhaps more, since it only requires a slight adjustmet about 2500kms or so. I believe in replaceing the countershaft sprocket when it starts to show much wear and find that for a small price I greatly extend my rear sprocket and chain life. One thing, in my opinion I can say about the chain waxes is that I don't think I would use any of the ones I've tried again. They are much cleaner to use then the foaming variety even if you whip the excessive foam off after it becomes tacky but from my experience the wax stuff seems to disappear from the rollers to the point that if you ride in the rain and park overnight you can see rust starting to form on the rollers in the morning. In normal conditions the Bel-Ray is still present on the rollers after a 400km day. As far as using heavy oil goes my experience says that to me at least it isn't worth the mess. Several years ago me and three other guys I rode trails with all had kdx200's all used pretty much all the same as far as chains and sprockets go (one guy owned a Kawasaki dealership so our parts came from there) one of the guys used mostly motor or gearoil while the rest of us used the Bel-Ray. Me and the guy that used the oil generally did our bike maintenance together. I would normally get a couple of months longer out of a chain then he did, we both changed front sprockets as needed. I carrried a can of Bel-Ray with me and usually only needed to reapply it if we did a lot of water crossings, he would sometimes reapply a couple of times during a 100km trip. Definitely not very contolled test but just an observation, he remained happy with his motor oil, probably because he used it for years, so I guess we go with what seems to work for us, try different products now and then and hope we find something better....have a great day.....Greg

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud Jones" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "James Morrow Sr" wrote: > > > > the only incoming flak is that for sure the chain link is lubricated and > > sealed for itself by the oring seal. What the oring seal does not do is > > lubricate the metal to metal contact of the chain links and sprockets. > > > > Neither does anything else, as far as I can tell, unless it is delivered in a continual flow, as > with a chain oiler. Lube your chain, ride it six blocks to the coffee shop, and see how much > lubricant remains on the rollers and bearing surfaces of the sprockets. You lube your chain > how often? >

[Arden Kysely]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud Jones" wrote:

>

I have to disagree, Jud. Whatever grease comes on new chains lasts quite awhile. Also, Kal-Gard makes a lube that sticks to rollers and sprockets for good long time. I've started using WD-40 and so far, so good, but I do wonder the roller/sprocket contact will generate enough heat on long, fast (rides to break down the grease inside. __Arden

> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "James Morrow Sr"

wrote:

> > > > the only incoming flak is that for sure the chain link is

lubricated and

> > sealed for itself by the oring seal. What the oring seal does

not do is

> > lubricate the metal to metal contact of the chain links and

sprockets.

> > > > Neither does anything else, as far as I can tell, unless it is

delivered in a continual flow, as

> with a chain oiler. Lube your chain, ride it six blocks to the

coffee shop, and see how much

> lubricant remains on the rollers and bearing surfaces of the

sprockets. You lube your chain

> how often? >

[James Morrow Sr]

I lube every gas fillup, and Honda Chain lube is still on their when I filliup. I agree continual oiler is probably the ultimate, at the expense of excessive oil use, and more mess than I care to have. I am confident gas to gas stop has plenty of lubricant, and certainly more than nothing, or WD-40 which is not a heavy duty lubricant. Again, YMMV and you can do about anything with a modern chain that you want, and have it last to some degree. I got the maximum life and performance, with my proceedure on a motorcycle that stresses to the maximum, so I stick with it.

On 10/13/07, Jud Jones wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , "James > Morrow Sr" wrote: > > > > the only incoming flak is that for sure the chain link is lubricated and > > sealed for itself by the oring seal. What the oring seal does not do is > > lubricate the metal to metal contact of the chain links and sprockets. > > > > Neither does anything else, as far as I can tell, unless it is delivered > in a continual flow, as > with a chain oiler. Lube your chain, ride it six blocks to the coffee > shop, and see how much > lubricant remains on the rollers and bearing surfaces of the sprockets. > You lube your chain > how often? > > > -- James Morrow Sr Union, MO '00' RT + dual plug + Bunkhouse '00' BUSA + 15hp '05' KLR650 + big fun factor [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Well put.... Lube for the conditions on what you ride. WD-40 great for clearing dirt and gunk off the chain while out offroading, but for commuter/highway lube the chain. Back when I worked at the shop I bought a piece of bulk 520 O-ring chain and some Polaris master links that fit it perfect. Came with some kind of white greasey film, well I was commuting with it and running 100+ miles a day at highway speeds+ for a few weeks anyway, it still has a light coating on it and am considering just cleaning and re-greasing it with something similar since I just mounted fresh Dunlop D-606 on the front and a fresh new Kenda K-270 on the rear.... would'nt ya know it I take a job down in Chicago area (north of) and kinda regretting not going to a more street type tire, only gravel or dirt you can find around here involves trespassing so thats outta the question. Dooden A15 Green Ape (snuggled up in the garage) --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Arden Kysely"

> I have to disagree, Jud. Whatever grease comes on new chains lasts > quite awhile. Also, Kal-Gard makes a lube that sticks to rollers and > sprockets for good long time. I've started using WD-40 and so far, so > good, but I do wonder the roller/sprocket contact will generate > enough heat on long, fast (rides to break down the grease inside. > > __Arden

[Blake Sobiloff]

Just remember, y'all, that Bill Watson's doing his usual meticulous maintenance and measurement on his KLR's OEM chain, using only WD-40. Check the archive for the specifics, but IIRC he's on track to get 60K miles out of the OEM chain with just the occasional WD-40 cleaning. Yes, he lives in a pretty mild environment (Phoenix), but that should address Arden's thoughts regarding high chain temps. -- Blake Sobiloff http://www.sobiloff.com/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[quitugua_a]

I want more of a dirt bike look. Could the 2008 rear fender plastic fit on my 06... or does any1 know where I can get plastic like the KLR650C. Thanks Aric