very wiggly at 100 on the clock

[C COOPER]

Forrest, I'm assuming that when you say the reservoir cover screws, you mean that the top of the screw is buggered up and the phillips head screw driver won't turn it. If so, don't feel too bad. Did the same thing myself. The way I got it out, and there are a number of "right" ways, was to use a small chisel and small hammer and gently (patience is the key word) find the remaining slots and tap so that you are trying to move the screw head counter clock wise with the tapping. It took some time for me, and each pass around the screw took a little bit deeper bite. Be careful not to gouge into the reservoir cover. If you aren't successful with the chisel, you'll have to drill out the screw and use a small "easy out". Find the screw removal tools before you start drilling. I've read here on the listserv that the stock Kawi fasteners can best be described as "compressed oatmeal". I've replace most of the fasteners on my bike with stainless socket head stuff. I bought a kit on ebay - specifically for the KLR - and supplemented it with additional items as needed. Good luck. Chuck

On 8/25/07, Forrest wrote: > > Today has been a prime example of why I hate doing my own mechanic > work. I don't have a lift so I wrestled the thing onto a milk > crate. Installing the new links was easy enough but then I missed > those pesky fork boot clamps (which was moronic on my part. Then I > couldn't get the front wheel back on because of no gap between the > brake pads so I opened the bleeder, removed the brake line, removed > the brake body from the bike and disassembled it. I found one pad > was hung up on the spring that's in the bottom of the brake > housing. Then I reassembled and reinstalled the brake body and re- > attached everything. I then went to open the front brake reservior > so I could fill it and bleed the brakes and STRIPPED ONE OF THE DAMN > SCREWS in the reservior cover. So as I write this I have a lower KLR > with no front brake. I WILL be using cap head screws to reassemble > the thing if I manage to get the stripped one out (( > > ww > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , Doug > Herr wrote: > > > > On Sun, 26 Aug 2007, Forrest wrote: > > > > > Thanks Doug. I did that earlier to no avail. Lacking another > option > > > I quess I'll try removing the brake line??? > > > > > > I *think* that opening the bleed valve is equal to removing the > > line in a case like this. If that is true then I suspect that > > the piston is simply stuck at an extension level that is beyond > > spec. So, if that is true then it might be a case where you need > > to use wood/etc. wedges to evenly push it back. > > > > But I would really advise waiting for somebody who knows more > > then I. > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com , Doug > Herr wrote: > > >> > > >> On Sat, 25 Aug 2007, Forrest wrote: > > >> > > >>> OK. Another stupid question. How do I get the front brake > rotor > > >>> back into the calipers so I can reinstall the front wheel? It > > > must > > >>> be simple but, of course, I've been unable to do it and I've > > > managed > > >>> to get the front pads locked together in a death grip so it's > not > > >>> going to happen now without benefit of expert advice > > >> > > >> > > >> In case somebody does not reply soon with the *right* answer, I > > >> will venture a guess... > > >> > > >> Open the bleed valve? > > > > -- > > Doug Herr > > doug@... > > A16 in Oakland, California > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Put this in memory for the next time, take a wooden clothespin (spring type) remove the spring and now you have two hardwood wedges, when you take the caliper off, insert the two pieces in from each side and the wedge will be square (holding pads correctly) so when it time to put the caliper back on, remove the pins and slide it back on, operate the brake a couple times to reset the gap/travel of the pads. Might be able to use the wedges to push the piston back in also now, with cars/trucks I use a C-clamp to push them back, just make sure it goes in square to the hole. Good Luck Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Forrest" wrote: > > OK. Another stupid question. How do I get the front brake rotor > back into the calipers so I can reinstall the front wheel? It must > be simple but, of course, I've been unable to do it and I've managed > to get the front pads locked together in a death grip so it's not > going to happen now without benefit of expert advice > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Forrest" wrote: > > > > AAAARGH. What a putz I am. Thanks. I loosened the clamps and > the > > things slid right up Duhhhh. > > > > ww > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" wrote: > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Forrest" wrote: > > > > > > > > I just installed a lowering kit on my KLR (2") and when I went > to > > push > > > > the front shocks up I'll be damned if I can get them to move. > The > > > > instructions make it sound trivial. What's the secret? > > > > > > > > ww > > > > > > > Don't forget to loosen the ring clams at the top of the fork > > boots...... > > > > > > all the best, > > > > > > Mike > > > > > >

[Norm Keller]

Forest, you don't happen to be within 100 miles of Chilliwack? After my son's soccer tournament, I'm going for a ride and could stop if you want help. Alternatively, the advice regarding using a chisel (small one) to tap the screw will work well so long as you do as he said. We're assuming that the screw head is stripped out and not that the threads are stripped. Drilling and an extractor is another alternative but fraught with nasty consequences if not done properly. I deal with technicians constantly in my tool business and even the most experienced will still break an extractor or drill bit from time to time. For the inexperienced, this is a very nasty consequence so be advised to be very careful about the torque (twisting force being applied to the extractor). Even more important is to avoid bending the extractor sideways as this will snap the extractor (also the drill). Other possible solutions are: - use a cutting tool such as a Dremel to cut a screwdriver slot in the screw head. - drill the head with a left hand drill bit of slightly larger diameter than the screw threads. This is the solution I use first as the left hand drill (reverse rotation) will usually spin the screw out. Zip! Done! If you are skilled at sharpening drill bits, you can simply select an bit of the right diameter and put a reverse oriented cutting face onto it. It's not as pretty and won't clear chips in a deeper hole but will get it done without locating a left hand drill. Perhaps the best solution is to notice that these screws are not Phillips head as people continue to insist. The dot on the head and the head socket configuration indicate that they are Posi-drive. They seldom strip when a Posi-drive screwdriver is used, Funny...... Too bad I didn't get back to you in time to advise not to disassemble the hose or to open the bleeder! Sorry but I need to sleep. (VBG) Opening the bleeder wouldn't make any difference because the breather port in the master cylinder is open to the reservoir when the master cylinder is released. This is how brake pressure is released when the lever or pedal are released. Anyone who wants to check this out can do so easily. 1) Read this paragraph before starting. 2)Remove the reservoir lid and look carefully into the reservoir. 3) Pump the lever vigorously. 4) Notice the little squirt of brake fluid which hit you in the eye? (VBG) 5) Don't pump the lever or push the calliper pistons back with the reservoir uncovered! It is often the best practice to have the lid screws loose and a wet rag around the master cylinder to catch any brake fluid which leaks out. It is not uncommon for people to spray brake fluid all over their paint due to pumping the lever or pushing back the calliper pistons while the reservoir lid is removed. If the reservoir is too full, there will not be enough space for the fluid being displaced which may cause fluid to leak around the lid, may make it difficult/impossible to push the pistons back far enough to accommodate new brake pads. It is usually good practice to suction some fluid from the reservoir. I recommend changing the brake fluid each year and when replacing pads. Don't leave the lid off for longer than necessary or use brake fluid from an open can as the fluid absorbs moisture from the air but this has been dealt with at length so all should know. Time to shower and take my son to his soccer tournament. 8 to 2 win yesterday but they face a national team from Taiwan today so will have a time of it if they win by enough goals this morning. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Forrest]

Thanks Norm, I'm more like 2000 miles from Chilliwack but if you could drop by you'd be welcome any time. I'll give it a go today and let you know how it turns out. Thanks ww

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Norm Keller" wrote: > > Forest, you don't happen to be within 100 miles of Chilliwack? After my son's soccer tournament, I'm going for a ride and could stop if you want help. > > Alternatively, the advice regarding using a chisel (small one) to tap the screw will work well so long as you do as he said. > > We're assuming that the screw head is stripped out and not that the threads are stripped. > > Drilling and an extractor is another alternative but fraught with nasty consequences if not done properly. > > I deal with technicians constantly in my tool business and even the most experienced will still break an extractor or drill bit from time to time. > > For the inexperienced, this is a very nasty consequence so be advised to be very careful about the torque (twisting force being applied to the extractor). > > Even more important is to avoid bending the extractor sideways as this will snap the extractor (also the drill). > > Other possible solutions are: > > - use a cutting tool such as a Dremel to cut a screwdriver slot in the screw head. > > - drill the head with a left hand drill bit of slightly larger diameter than the screw threads. > This is the solution I use first as the left hand drill (reverse rotation) will usually spin the screw out. Zip! Done! > > If you are skilled at sharpening drill bits, you can simply select an bit of the right diameter and put a reverse oriented cutting face onto it. It's not as pretty and won't clear chips in a deeper hole but will get it done without locating a left hand drill. > > Perhaps the best solution is to notice that these screws are not Phillips head as people continue to insist. The dot on the head and the head socket configuration indicate that they are Posi-drive. They seldom strip when a Posi-drive screwdriver is used, Funny...... > > Too bad I didn't get back to you in time to advise not to disassemble the hose or to open the bleeder! Sorry but I need to sleep. (VBG) > > Opening the bleeder wouldn't make any difference because the breather port in the master cylinder is open to the reservoir when the master cylinder is released. This is how brake pressure is released when the lever or pedal are released. > > Anyone who wants to check this out can do so easily. > > 1) Read this paragraph before starting. > > 2)Remove the reservoir lid and look carefully into the reservoir. > > 3) Pump the lever vigorously. > > 4) Notice the little squirt of brake fluid which hit you in the eye? (VBG) > > 5) Don't pump the lever or push the calliper pistons back with the reservoir uncovered! > > It is often the best practice to have the lid screws loose and a wet rag around the master cylinder to catch any brake fluid which leaks out. > > It is not uncommon for people to spray brake fluid all over their paint due to pumping the lever or pushing back the calliper pistons while the reservoir lid is removed. > > If the reservoir is too full, there will not be enough space for the fluid being displaced which may cause fluid to leak around the lid, may make it difficult/impossible to push the pistons back far enough to accommodate new brake pads. It is usually good practice to suction some fluid from the reservoir. > > I recommend changing the brake fluid each year and when replacing pads. Don't leave the lid off for longer than necessary or use brake fluid from an open can as the fluid absorbs moisture from the air but this has been dealt with at length so all should know. > > Time to shower and take my son to his soccer tournament. 8 to 2 win yesterday but they face a national team from Taiwan today so will have a time of it if they win by enough goals this morning. > > Norm > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Aug 26, 2007, at 5:01 AM, Luc Legrain wrote:

> How do you do adjust the speedo ??

Check out http://www.xanga.com/home.aspx?user=watt_man>. -- Blake Sobiloff http://www.sobiloff.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)