very wiggly at 100 on the clock
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lowering kit
has anyone used the lowering kit from scootworks??
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lowering kit
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "bzrc" wrote:
After purchasing a V-Strom, I lowered my KLR using the Scootworks adjustable lowering link, lowering the ass-end a full 3 inches. To keep the geometry of the bike intact, I also lowered the front the same by loosening the triple-clamp and sliding the fork tubes up through it. The wife, at 5'5", can now touch with both feet (not flat footed), and loves it! Joe in Kansas '01 KLR 650 '02 Suzuki V-Strom 1000> has anyone used the lowering kit from scootworks??
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lowering kit
I just installed a lowering kit on my KLR (2") and when I went to push
the front shocks up I'll be damned if I can get them to move. The
instructions make it sound trivial. What's the secret?
ww
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lowering kit
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Forrest" wrote:
Don't forget to loosen the ring clams at the top of the fork boots...... all the best, Mike> > I just installed a lowering kit on my KLR (2") and when I went to push > the front shocks up I'll be damned if I can get them to move. The > instructions make it sound trivial. What's the secret? > > ww >
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lowering kit
AAAARGH. What a putz I am. Thanks. I loosened the clamps and the
things slid right up Duhhhh.
ww
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Forrest" wrote: > > > > I just installed a lowering kit on my KLR (2") and when I went to push > > the front shocks up I'll be damned if I can get them to move. The > > instructions make it sound trivial. What's the secret? > > > > ww > > > Don't forget to loosen the ring clams at the top of the fork boots...... > > all the best, > > Mike >
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lowering kit
OK. Another stupid question. How do I get the front brake rotor
back into the calipers so I can reinstall the front wheel? It must
be simple but, of course, I've been unable to do it and I've managed
to get the front pads locked together in a death grip so it's not
going to happen now without benefit of expert advice

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Forrest" wrote: > > AAAARGH. What a putz I am. Thanks. I loosened the clamps and the > things slid right up Duhhhh. > > ww > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Forrest" wrote: > > > > > > I just installed a lowering kit on my KLR (2") and when I went to > push > > > the front shocks up I'll be damned if I can get them to move. The > > > instructions make it sound trivial. What's the secret? > > > > > > ww > > > > > Don't forget to loosen the ring clams at the top of the fork > boots...... > > > > all the best, > > > > Mike > > >
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lowering kit
On Sat, 25 Aug 2007, Forrest wrote:
In case somebody does not reply soon with the *right* answer, I will venture a guess... Open the bleed valve? -- Doug Herr doug@... A16 in Oakland, California> OK. Another stupid question. How do I get the front brake rotor > back into the calipers so I can reinstall the front wheel? It must > be simple but, of course, I've been unable to do it and I've managed > to get the front pads locked together in a death grip so it's not > going to happen now without benefit of expert advice![]()
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lowering kit
Thanks Doug. I did that earlier to no avail. Lacking another option
I quess I'll try removing the brake line???
ww
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Doug Herr wrote: > > On Sat, 25 Aug 2007, Forrest wrote: > > > OK. Another stupid question. How do I get the front brake rotor > > back into the calipers so I can reinstall the front wheel? It must > > be simple but, of course, I've been unable to do it and I've managed > > to get the front pads locked together in a death grip so it's not > > going to happen now without benefit of expert advice> > > In case somebody does not reply soon with the *right* answer, I > will venture a guess... > > Open the bleed valve? > > > -- > Doug Herr > doug@... > A16 in Oakland, California >
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lowering kit
On Sun, 26 Aug 2007, Forrest wrote:
I *think* that opening the bleed valve is equal to removing the line in a case like this. If that is true then I suspect that the piston is simply stuck at an extension level that is beyond spec. So, if that is true then it might be a case where you need to use wood/etc. wedges to evenly push it back. But I would really advise waiting for somebody who knows more then I.> Thanks Doug. I did that earlier to no avail. Lacking another option > I quess I'll try removing the brake line???
-- Doug Herr doug@... A16 in Oakland, California> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Doug Herr wrote: >> >> On Sat, 25 Aug 2007, Forrest wrote: >> >>> OK. Another stupid question. How do I get the front brake rotor >>> back into the calipers so I can reinstall the front wheel? It > must >>> be simple but, of course, I've been unable to do it and I've > managed >>> to get the front pads locked together in a death grip so it's not >>> going to happen now without benefit of expert advice>> >> >> In case somebody does not reply soon with the *right* answer, I >> will venture a guess... >> >> Open the bleed valve?
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lowering kit
Today has been a prime example of why I hate doing my own mechanic
work. I don't have a lift so I wrestled the thing onto a milk
crate. Installing the new links was easy enough but then I missed
those pesky fork boot clamps (which was moronic on my part. Then I
couldn't get the front wheel back on because of no gap between the
brake pads so I opened the bleeder, removed the brake line, removed
the brake body from the bike and disassembled it. I found one pad
was hung up on the spring that's in the bottom of the brake
housing. Then I reassembled and reinstalled the brake body and re-
attached everything. I then went to open the front brake reservior
so I could fill it and bleed the brakes and STRIPPED ONE OF THE DAMN
SCREWS in the reservior cover. So as I write this I have a lower KLR
with no front brake. I WILL be using cap head screws to reassemble
the thing if I manage to get the stripped one out
((
ww

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Doug Herr wrote: > > On Sun, 26 Aug 2007, Forrest wrote: > > > Thanks Doug. I did that earlier to no avail. Lacking another option > > I quess I'll try removing the brake line??? > > > I *think* that opening the bleed valve is equal to removing the > line in a case like this. If that is true then I suspect that > the piston is simply stuck at an extension level that is beyond > spec. So, if that is true then it might be a case where you need > to use wood/etc. wedges to evenly push it back. > > But I would really advise waiting for somebody who knows more > then I. > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Doug Herr wrote: > >> > >> On Sat, 25 Aug 2007, Forrest wrote: > >> > >>> OK. Another stupid question. How do I get the front brake rotor > >>> back into the calipers so I can reinstall the front wheel? It > > must > >>> be simple but, of course, I've been unable to do it and I've > > managed > >>> to get the front pads locked together in a death grip so it's not > >>> going to happen now without benefit of expert advice> >> > >> > >> In case somebody does not reply soon with the *right* answer, I > >> will venture a guess... > >> > >> Open the bleed valve? > > -- > Doug Herr > doug@... > A16 in Oakland, California >
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