compression

[Dave Watkins]

From The Great Freakin WHITE North, As I look out at the 35cm of "partly cloudy" in my yard and pine for the warmth of Moab I've just completed this very mod. The one additional thing that I did do was to plug the ports on the back plate so as to eliminate any chance of leakage should the gasket material fail in the area not sandwiched between two pieces of metal. While personally I doubt that this would happen I just wanted to make sure. I had the tank off anyway getting it etched and relined. More to come in the next 24 hours. SNOW that is............... Cheers, Dave Watkins 1997 KLR650 "He who has no name" Calgary, Alberta Canada 1995 KLR650 " FOR SALE" Voice: 1.403.701.5746 Fax: 1.403.266.0626 Email: dave@... WWW: http://www.davewatkins.net DISCLAIMERS ARE FOR LAWYERS I SAID IT, I MEANT IT, I STAND BEHIND IT

----- Original Message ----- From: "Devon Jarvis" To: "dsn_klr650" dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2003 3:34 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: backfiring, hesitation...... > The fuel tap diaphram was replaced two months ago. > > If you want a manual fuel tap, that's easy. Run the tank empty, lay the > bike all the way on the right side and remove the fuel tap. Unscrew the > four screws that hold the vacuum fitting and remove the back plate. > Remove the diaphram block (with both diaphrams attached), spring, and > plunger. Cut a piece of some crushable material that is impervious to > gasoline to the same size as the diaphram block, then reinstall the back > plate with the little square in between the fual tap body and the back > plate, crushed down to make a fuel-tight seal. > > That's it. I ran this setup for six months but got tired of remembering > to shut off the fuel three hours after I parked the bike, and having to > go downstairs in my pajamas. > > Devon > > zrod73026 wrote: > > >I know you're tired of hearing me biatch about the vaccuum operated > >petcock but I don't trust the fuel is always there when we need it. > >Please figure a way to defeat it and tell me how it's done. > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >

[monte quint]

I would like to be able to fill the camp stove and lantern directly from the fuel tank on the bike. Does anyone know of a petcock with an additional nipple and valve to allow for this to work?? Does anyone have a different way to do this other than directly siphoning the fuel. Also while working on this issue what should I be doing with the diaphram of the existing fuel valve to simplify and improve its' performance?? I have read posts regarding conversion that make for more reliability in performance. Trying to make the "Time Bandit" a more "hardened target" for the breakdown gremlins. Thanks, Monte (in Ketchikan where lately the sun only shines at night)

[Zachariah Mully]

monte quint wrote:

> I would like to be able to fill the camp stove and lantern directly from > the fuel tank on the bike. Does anyone know of a petcock with an > additional nipple and valve to allow for this to work?? Does anyone > have a different way to do this other than directly siphoning the fuel >

Easiest way would be to carry an extra fuel line and vacuum line with you. Detach the bike lines from the petcock, attach the new ones, place the fuel line into your camp stove, turn on the petcock and suck on the vacuum line.

> Also while working on this issue what should I be doing with the > diaphram of the existing fuel valve to simplify and improve its' > performance?? I have read posts regarding conversion that make for more > reliability in performance. >

Dunno, never had a problem with any of mine. Pretty easy to diagnose as well. Z

[Gary Hooker]

Check out the petcock conversion ($19) at Big Cee. You will still need to loosen a hose clamp, but you would be able to use the carb fuel line to fill your camping stove. An addition plus--it deletes the diaphragm and vacuum from the petcock. From the Big Cee website: "Vacuum-operated petcocks are a handy thing to have on gravity-fed fuel systems; they automatically stop the flow of gas to the carb when the engine is turned off, saving you from a crankcase or floor full of gasoline should the float needle start to leak. But vacuum petcocks have their own problems. Over time, the vacuum diaphragm can fail. This will result in one of two things: A vacuum leak and a lean fuel/air mixture, or a gas leak through the vacuum vent hole. Neither one is really desirable. The Big Cee petcock conversion kit will convert your automatic petcock to a fully manual one by replacing the diaphragm and rear cover. It includes the cover, nitrile (Buna-N) gasket, screws, and a cap for the carb vacuum port (or the vacuum tee on California models). Converting your petcock to manual operation has other benefits: You will no longer need to supply vacuum to the vacuum port to drain the tank, to fill the fuel bottle for your camping stove, or to loan gas to your buddy on the XR with the small tank." http://www.bigcee.com/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Russ Coley]

This is probably the easiest thing to do, however you need to check and make sure the petcock has an 'off' position. Some petcocks have 'pri' instead of 'off' and the Big Cee website makes it quite clear that the conversion will not work with that petcock. Gary Hooker wrote: Check out the petcock conversion ($19) at Big Cee. You will still need to loosen a hose clamp, but you would be able to use the carb fuel line to fill your camping stove. An addition plus--it deletes the diaphragm and vacuum from the petcock. From the Big Cee website: "Vacuum-operated petcocks are a handy thing to have on gravity-fed fuel systems; they automatically stop the flow of gas to the carb when the engine is turned off, saving you from a crankcase or floor full of gasoline should the float needle start to leak. But vacuum petcocks have their own problems. Over time, the vacuum diaphragm can fail. This will result in one of two things: A vacuum leak and a lean fuel/air mixture, or a gas leak through the vacuum vent hole. Neither one is really desirable. The Big Cee petcock conversion kit will convert your automatic petcock to a fully manual one by replacing the diaphragm and rear cover. It includes the cover, nitrile (Buna-N) gasket, screws, and a cap for the carb vacuum port (or the vacuum tee on California models). Converting your petcock to manual operation has other benefits: You will no longer need to supply vacuum to the vacuum port to drain the tank, to fill the fuel bottle for your camping stove, or to loan gas to your buddy on the XR with the small tank." http://www.bigcee.com/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] --------------------------------- Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Chris Norloff]

Personally, I prefer the vacuum-controlled petcock. I like that if the bike falls over, the fuel stops when the engine stops. I also like that I can't forget to turn off the fuel when stopping, and finding a nice puddle and trail of gasoline from the carb to the ground and downslope (BTDT). If the vacuum diaphram dies, I'll replace it. best, Chris ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Gary Hooker" Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2007 06:11:27 -0700

>Check out the petcock conversion ($19) at Big Cee. > >You will still need to loosen a hose clamp, but you would be able to use the >carb fuel line to fill your camping stove. An addition plus--it deletes the >diaphragm and vacuum from the petcock. > >>From the Big Cee website: > > "Vacuum-operated petcocks are a handy thing to have on gravity-fed fuel >systems; they automatically stop the flow of gas to the carb when the engine >is turned off, saving you from a crankcase or floor full of gasoline should >the float needle start to leak. But vacuum petcocks have their own problems. >Over time, the vacuum diaphragm can fail. This will result in one of two >things: A vacuum leak and a lean fuel/air mixture, or a gas leak through the >vacuum vent hole. Neither one is really desirable. > > The Big Cee petcock conversion kit will convert your automatic petcock to a >fully manual one by replacing the diaphragm and rear cover. It includes the >cover, nitrile (Buna-N) gasket, screws, and a cap for the carb vacuum port >(or the vacuum tee on California models). Converting your petcock to manual >operation has other benefits: You will no longer need to supply vacuum to >the vacuum port to drain the tank, to fill the fuel bottle for your camping >stove, or to loan gas to your buddy on the XR with the small tank." > >http://www.bigcee.com/ > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > >

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Jul 16, 2007, at 9:35 PM, monte quint wrote:

> I would like to be able to fill the camp stove and lantern directly > from > the fuel tank on the bike. Does anyone know of a petcock with an > additional nipple and valve to allow for this to work??

Hiya Monte! As others have mentioned, you can change to a manual petcock to eliminate a potential failure point with the vacuum diaphragm. However, at least for me, I'd probably forget to turn off the darned petcock far more often than the diaphragm fails, so that's not a mod on my list to do. As for moving fuel to your camping gear, if it was something I planned on doing regularly I wouldn't be pulling hoses off the petcock--that's not what they're designed for and sooner or later you'll fatigue the hose, pull a petcock nipple out of its press fit, etc., and then have a whole new problem to deal with. This touches on the idea of installing a drain in the right tank lobe, plumbed to join the main fuel line. I like the idea in theory, as it prevents that area from storing up water and contaminants, and it could also provide a point for a manually controlled drain to fill camping gear. However, it's beyond my skill to implement, and in theory it also introduces another couple of potential failure points. Anyways, most auto parts stores sell very cheap plastic bellows that let you quickly and easily siphon fuel. I'd use one of those, as even if that fails you've got enough hose to manually start the siphon. While it takes up a small bit of room, it's quite light and doesn't degrade the reliability of your bike in the least. -- Blake Sobiloff http://www.sobiloff.com/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David C.]

At 11:04 AM 7/17/2007 +0000, you wrote:

>I would like to be able to fill the camp stove and lantern directly from >the fuel tank on the bike. Does anyone know of a petcock with an >additional nipple and valve to allow for this to work?? Does anyone >have a different way to do this other than directly siphoning the fuel. > >Also while working on this issue what should I be doing with the >diaphram of the existing fuel valve to simplify and improve its' >performance?? I have read posts regarding conversion that make for more >reliability in performance. > >Trying to make the "Time Bandit" a more "hardened target" for the >breakdown gremlins.

You can get a conversion kit from Big Cee Engineering http://www.bigcee.com/ to convert your petcock to manual operation, or if you are handy you can make the parts yourself, which I did when the Big Cee kit was unavailable. If you take your petcock apart it'll be obvious how it works. For the fuel fill for your stove, you could go to the hardware or auto parts store and get a nylon or brass T fitting and splice it into the line, put another piece of line on the T and either plug it or put a small valve in it. Another way would be to use quick disconnects: http://www.aerostich.com/catalog/US/Gas-Tank-Quick-Disconnect-p-17075.html Dave C

[Norm Keller]

I couldn't agree more, Chris. IMO the requirement to close a manual fuel valve each time the bike is parked in the garage, makes it more likely that I will have trouble from manual valve than from the automatic (stock) one. If it seems prudent, I will simply replace the guts of my A18's valve in a year or two. Norm

>If the vacuum diaphragm dies, I'll replace it. >best, >Chris

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jacobus De Bruyn]

OK, no problems with compression on this machine, my mind or what s left of it was still in Honda 200 & 250 territory. Thanks, Jake. Because I live, you also will live. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a PS3 game guru. Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games. http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121