oil/filter change

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Tue, Jul 10, 2007 at 01:12:36AM -0000, kestrelfal wrote:

> > What I wrote: > the design of the footrest bolted > joint *is OK* if the tightness of the > bolts is *properly maintained*

That's quite simply false. Look in the archives -- riders with no load other than their own dear selves have torn out even bolts that were loc-tited and safety wired in place after being recently torqued to the correct values. The connection that the bolt threads into is substandard -- the nuts are skinny, are often poorly welded on, and are made of low-quality material. On top of that, there are no threads in in the mounting plate itself, but the bolt itself is threaded in that area, a sign of poor specification all on its own -- and the bolts *do* tear out and break even if properly maintained. If you're lucky and your bike's undersized nuts are welded on well, you may get away with using soft bolts one size up, after you tear the original ones out so much you can't repair the 8mm threads in the holes any more. But you may not, too. Zach and others who take very good care of their bikes and _are_ good about maintenance of the fasteners have still had to resort to cutting the mounts apart to effect a more permanent repair with proper nuts and washers or a simple drilled/threaded steel block. In terms of what breaks on the bike if you beat it around a lot, this is, in fact, one of the notorious weak points. Thor

[Stuart Mumford]

> -----Original Message----- > So short of installing a solid steel chunk in the box, you actually want > to do the exact opposite, replace the bolts with the cheapest, softest, > shittiest low-grade chinese made bolt you can find. It's a hell of a lot > easier to replace a stripped bolt than it is to replace a stripped foot > peg box. > > Believe Me For I Am The Destroyer Of Pegs > > > > Z >

I'm right there with you, and have the 8 weeks of physical therapy on my wrist to prove it. :-/ In my mind's eye, I can picture a brace, a magnificent farkle, like an inverted "U" (maybe more like a "W" with an uber-long chee cha between the chawordniks, like U--------U ) , between the two footpeg boxes with a threaded insert on either end to slip in to the footpeg bracket mounting box after one has cut off the bottoms, to reinforce the factory mounting points and have a brace against the opposite frame rail to help absorb the torque generated by some dummy stomping the living Jesus out of the footpegs. Of course, I'm no machinist, and I do like beer. It's amazing how simple mechanical problems appear after a couple of beers, eh? Thanks CA Stu

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

At 1:12 AM +0000 7/10/07, kestrelfal wrote:

>What I wrote: >the design of the footrest bolted >joint *is OK* if the tightness of the >bolts is *properly maintained* > >Heavy duty riders *may* want to >periodically replace their bolts

Trust me, I've seen it many times and I've done it. Even if you hit the trails with brand-new, freshly torqued bolts, a hard rider (even a 154lb one) can snap them like raw spaghetti, or rip them out of the box completely. Mark

[LD]

For those of you that are like Z, the destroyer of pegs, can you tell more about what it's like to bust one? I'm 225 lbs and haven't bent or broken a peg yet. I'm not a very expereinced or agressive dirt rider, but I do tend to get up on the pegs when in the dirt. When you break a peg, does it tend to snap right off, or do you get some advance warning? Is a geezer rider like me likely to bust one off, or do I need to be jumping the bike and riding whoops at 50mph to make it happen? Thanks. John --------------------------------- Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jacobus De Bruyn]

Here is a guy who talks sense, listen to him! Indeed, the metal alloy, if it is that, is pretty shitty, and on one side my footpegs have no thread at all left, so I will have to drill in new thread and new bolts, the same on the brake lever, I drilled right thru it, and installed a bolt with nut, steel this time, not candy bar material, one of the bolts holding the tank same thing. In the face of so much stupidity, even I feel smart at times. Story of my life. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Get your own web address. Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business. http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL

[Jacobus De Bruyn]

Footpegs, footpegs, at the moment I ve got my starboard footpeg secured with wires, and a hoseclamp, and some epoxy gobble gobble, and it works fine. I have no faith in the material for new threads and bolts, can the pegs be welded to the frame?? Why not? ____________________________________________________________________________________Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/

[Zachariah Mully]

On Tue, 2007-07-10 at 17:29 -0700, Jacobus De Bruyn wrote:

> Footpegs, footpegs, at the moment I ve got my > starboard footpeg secured with wires, and a hoseclamp, > and some epoxy gobble gobble, and it works fine. I > have no faith in the material for new threads and > bolts, can the pegs be welded to the frame?? Why not?

I don't think you'll be able to pull the engine if your pegs are welded on, but I could be wrong, it's been awhile since I've wrestled with the tubby bitch. Z

[Zachariah Mully]

On Tue, 2007-07-10 at 16:57 -0700, Jacobus De Bruyn wrote:

> Here is a guy who talks sense, listen to him! > Indeed, the metal alloy, if it is that, is pretty > shitty, and on one side my footpegs have no thread at > all left, so I will have to drill in new thread and > new bolts, the same on the brake lever, I drilled > right thru it, and installed a bolt with nut, steel > this time, not candy bar material, one of the bolts > holding the tank same thing. In the face of so much > stupidity, even I feel smart at times. Story of my life.

I would caution you to not drill through the frame for the footpeg bolts. Best method is to cut the bottom of the footpeg box off, chisel out the old nuts, fab up a solid chunk of steel to fill the box, drill and tap it for new 10mm bolts, insert it and weld the bottom back on. I have at least one of my footpegs this way (have to get a welder at some point), and the only problem with it is that my actual footpeg is starting to bend. Z

[Alan L Henderson]

And since they aren't welded onto the frame they can be replaced when they bend too far. Kind of answers the question posted earlier about welding them to the frame! Al A13 Ia Zachariah Mully wrote:

> > I would caution you to not drill through the frame for the footpeg > bolts. Best method is to cut the bottom of the footpeg box off, chisel > out the old nuts, fab up a solid chunk of steel to fill the box, drill > and tap it for new 10mm bolts, insert it and weld the bottom back on. I > have at least one of my footpegs this way (have to get a welder at some > point), and the only problem with it is that my actual footpeg is > starting to bend. > > Z

[Jacobus De Bruyn]

My dear friends, thank you for all the info on peggy pegs, or piggy pegs, I gather from various sources that yes they can be welded on, and still get the side cover off. Welding not so easy, because of the materials. An other option seems to be to install steel inside, tap thread, and then put the cover back on, and screw them on. Already my instinct told me not to drill inside the frame itself. Installed a new Yama brake piston in the rear, takes a lot of patience to get the air out of the system, let it sit overnight, and some more air will float up, and continue pumping, finally the brake works "tight." Evil and falsehood will self-destruct. ____________________________________________________________________________________ TV dinner still cooling? Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/