engine colours

[Geoff]

How many of you out hear have had to re-do your head and piston? What is a good "ballpark" figure I would be looking at getting the head re-done, honning the can and new piston w/rings? Also, which gaskets do I need to replace doing this? I checked with Fred and he wanted 89 bucks for the top end gasket set! Do I need that set to do this? How many gaskets come in that set? And are they laced with gold? If this ends up to be over 500 buck, I think I will look for another engine for now and work on this over time. Can anyone give me an idea on $? Near Portland Oregon Thanks Goeff

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

Can't say I have any personal experience doing this on this engine, but from what I recall from other posts is that $500 probably isn't going to cut it. Kawasaki parts are expensive. What is the bike worth now, versus after the repairs? How about parting out the bike, and getting a newer one? Jeff A20 ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Geoff" wrote:

> > How many of you out hear have had to re-do your head and piston? > What is a good "ballpark" figure I would be looking at getting the > head re-done, honning the can and new piston w/rings? > Also, which gaskets do I need to replace doing this? > I checked with Fred and he wanted 89 bucks for the top end gasket set! > Do I need that set to do this? > How many gaskets come in that set? > And are they laced with gold? > If this ends up to be over 500 buck, I think I will look for another > engine for now and work on this over time. > Can anyone give me an idea on $? > Near Portland Oregon > Thanks > > Goeff

Geoff, It depends on what the head needs. If you are going with just the standard refresh valves and guides if needed, cleanup of seats, new stem seals, I'd guess around $200. For the piston and cylinder, I'd go with the 685 if you have a 1996 or later. Around $300, including boring, forged piston, wrings, wrist pin, etc. These prices are for work done by Cary at Schnitz racing. The prices are also just an approximation. I would not send work anywhere else, though. There might be places that can do work like this, but I don't know of any. Your cam cover gasket is probably still good. You'd need a new head gasket, and I think the price above includes one, but maybe not. They're about $30 maybe $35. For the 685 they can trim it to fit the larger bore. I'm currently running a 703.5 kit with the big valve head. More $$$, more power. The full on big valve stage 2 head is about $600 and worth every penny. The forged piston kit is lighter than stock and the engine is smoother. No commission, just a very happy customer. All the best, Mike Eagle Mfg since 1990

[Alan L Henderson]

First I've heard of the 703. Made your own stroker kit, or what? Al A13 Ia Mike wrote:

> > I'm currently running a 703.5 kit with the big valve head. More $$$, > more power. The full on big valve stage 2 head is about $600 and worth > every penny. > > The forged piston kit is lighter than stock and the engine is smoother. > > No commission, just a very happy customer. > > All the best, > > Mike > Eagle Mfg since 1990 > > >

[Geoff]

Mike, thanks for the price break down and yes I understand that there not balls on acurate, a ballpark is what I was looking for. You touched on another question I thought of... You said refresh valves...Not sure, my valves keep tighting up(IN only)so not sure what to think. Are the valves going to be good when this happens, or do I need all new IN valves? Without seeing my head I understand you don't know, I'm just trying to see what get's done in a valve job. I'm imagineing my valves getting sucked into the head and mushrooming the face to where it can not be re-ground and re-used, but it's been a number of years since I was in Auto Shop. I will check with my mechanic on where he has sent his stuff around here and get prices, in the mean time, it will still run with 2.0mm shims in the IN side(thanks Fred), so I think I will ride the 4th. with friends, but I think it won't be long...$$$$$$$ GM

> > Geoff, > It depends on what the head needs. If you are going with just the > standard refresh valves and guides if needed, cleanup of seats, new > stem seals, I'd guess around $200. For the piston and cylinder, I'd go > with the 685 if you have a 1996 or later. Around $300, including > boring, forged piston, wrings, wrist pin, etc. These prices are for > work done by Cary at Schnitz racing. The prices are also just an > approximation. I would not send work anywhere else, though. There > might be places that can do work like this, but I don't know of any. > > Your cam cover gasket is probably still good. You'd need a new head > gasket, and I think the price above includes one, but maybe not. > They're about $30 maybe $35. For the 685 they can trim it to fit the > larger bore. > > I'm currently running a 703.5 kit with the big valve head. More $$$, > more power. The full on big valve stage 2 head is about $600 and worth > every penny. > > The forged piston kit is lighter than stock and the engine is smoother. > > No commission, just a very happy customer. > > All the best, > > Mike > Eagle Mfg since 1990 >

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Geoff" wrote:

> > Mike, thanks for the price break down and yes I understand that there > not balls on acurate, a ballpark is what I was looking for. You > touched on another question I thought of... > You said refresh valves...Not sure, my valves keep tighting up(IN > only)so not sure what to think. Are the valves going to be good when > this happens, or do I need all new IN valves? Without seeing my head I > understand you don't know, I'm just trying to see what get's done in a > valve job. I'm imagineing my valves getting sucked into the head and > mushrooming the face to where it can not be re-ground and re-used, but > it's been a number of years since I was in Auto Shop. I will check > with my mechanic on where he has sent his stuff around here and get > prices, in the mean time, it will still run with 2.0mm shims in the IN > side(thanks Fred), so I think I will ride the 4th. with friends, but I > think it won't be long...$$$$$$$ > > GM

Geoff, The price I gave you includes new valves. The heads they rebuilt for me and some local guys I helped out all needed new valves, and I think new guides. I'd guess at this point there is something weird (not good) going on with you needing shims that small. Time to work it over. It took about 6 hours, including lunch, to change out the cylinder, piston, and head. Some of that was fighting the new and much stronger wrist pin circlip. all the best, Mike

[Geoff]

New valves, beauty. One more thing, can this be done "in frame", or am I going to pull the engine? I guess it dos'nt matter to much either way, but it would be good to know up front. GM

> > The price I gave you includes new valves. The heads they rebuilt for > me and some local guys I helped out all needed new valves, and I think > new guides. > > I'd guess at this point there is something weird (not good) going on > with you needing shims that small. Time to work it over. > > It took about 6 hours, including lunch, to change out the cylinder, > piston, and head. Some of that was fighting the new and much stronger > wrist pin circlip. > > all the best, > > Mike >

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Norm Keller" wrote:

> > Someone posted the engine colours for the various years.

Unfortunately, I foolishly lost the reference.

> > My A18 is silver/grey and I just bought some parts which are black.

Now am curious.

> > Can anyone repost that list of engine colours by year? > > Norm > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

Norm, The A model parts are black 1987 through 1996. The Tengai engine parts are the silver/gray/green on the bikes I've seen. The 1996 has an early and late version. For instance the early version 1996 has the shorter eccentric idler shaft, and the late model output shaft. all the best, Mike