2003 klx 300 - for sale

DSN_KLR650
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guvenor_sier
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Dec 18, 2005 5:39 am

old 1988 bike, using lots of oil

Post by guvenor_sier » Thu Jun 28, 2007 8:24 am

Hi, I own a 1988 KLR which has done about 111 000km (little under 69 000miles) and it smokes quite a lot and leaks a fair bit of oil. Currently I am on uni holidays so had planned to take it apart to fix things and mostly learn. However it is pretty worn (and wasn't much better when I bought it that way as it was cheap and I was desperate for a bike after my prior one was stolen). The rear suspension needle bearings were stuffed so ordered them and it was relatively expensive for just the bearings so am worried that fixing the bike up properly will be an expensive exercise (which being a student isn't a good thing). It was/is using a lot of oil so I had been doing much filling but have finally removed the counter shaft seal and will also replace that (which I knew was leaking but too lazy/busy to get around to fixing). I do know it burns its fair share though anyway so doubt that the seal will fix all. Had a look through the exhaust port (not sure exactly what called but where header meets engine) and it is very very black in there. I haven't removed the sparkplug as I am yet to properly clean around the hold. It burns oil both on hard acceleration (leaving a very impressive smokescreen from the lights sometimes) and also sometimes when starting which I think means both valve seals could be bad and piston/cylinder leaking but I am not sure. It does start very easily though. I am guessing it is slightly more likely that the piston/cylinder is the main leaking and if this requires fixing is is often possible to get away with just rings and a piston without having to machine the cylinder and using fairly standard tools? Also, can all of that be done without removing the engine from the frame as there is also a problem removing the engine. The problem is that the bolt through the swingarm/engine (not the one through engine and linkage which I managed to free) is very much stuck fast (Have been WD40ing it fairly frequently and it has been soaking for a few days). The swingarm still seems to swing freely and I can rotate the bolt with a bit of force but even using a hammer to remove doesn't seem to work. I do have a spare bolt from a spare 1/2 bike so would somehow cutting the bolt be a viable option? Sorry for the massive bunch of questions but the bike is fairly ratty and I am too cheap/poor to take to a mechanic. Basically is it worth trying to fix everything in it or just do enough touch ups/oil fills to keep it going until I can afford a newer bike or this one dies?

Zachariah Mully
Posts: 1897
Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2000 7:50 am

old 1988 bike, using lots of oil

Post by Zachariah Mully » Thu Jun 28, 2007 8:37 am

On Thu, 2007-06-28 at 13:19 +0000, guvenor_sier wrote:
> The rear suspension needle bearings were stuffed so ordered them and > it was relatively expensive for just the bearings so am worried that > fixing the bike up properly will be an expensive exercise (which being > a student isn't a good thing).
Check with a local bearing house before you get bearings next time, often they are cheaper and better than the factory spec.
> It was/is using a lot of oil so I had been doing much filling but have > finally removed the counter shaft seal and will also replace that > (which I knew was leaking but too lazy/busy to get around to fixing). > I do know it burns its fair share though anyway so doubt that the > seal will fix all. Had a look through the exhaust port (not sure > exactly what called but where header meets engine) and it is very very > black in there. I haven't removed the sparkplug as I am yet to > properly clean around the hold. > > It burns oil both on hard acceleration (leaving a very impressive > smokescreen from the lights sometimes) and also sometimes when > starting which I think means both valve seals could be bad and > piston/cylinder leaking but I am not sure. It does start very easily > though.
Sounds like a job for some Tune Up in a Can like Marvel Mystery Oil! Dump some in on your next fillup and see if it helps with your leaky valve seals.
> I am guessing it is slightly more likely that the piston/cylinder is > the main leaking and if this requires fixing is is often possible to > get away with just rings and a piston without having to machine the > cylinder and using fairly standard tools? Also, can all of that be > done without removing the engine from the frame as there is also a > problem removing the engine. > > The problem is that the bolt through the swingarm/engine (not the one > through engine and linkage which I managed to free) is very much stuck > fast (Have been WD40ing it fairly frequently and it has been soaking > for a few days). The swingarm still seems to swing freely and I can > rotate the bolt with a bit of force but even using a hammer to remove > doesn't seem to work. I do have a spare bolt from a spare 1/2 bike so > would somehow cutting the bolt be a viable option? > > Sorry for the massive bunch of questions but the bike is fairly ratty > and I am too cheap/poor to take to a mechanic. > > Basically is it worth trying to fix everything in it or just do enough > touch ups/oil fills to keep it going until I can afford a newer bike > or this one dies?
I'd avoid anymore hammering, it's too easy to dent the frame with a missed blow. As for the frozen bolt, it is entirely possible that you won't be able to get it out without some major hackery and possible damage to the frame. I have a frame off a 1988 KLR with 80,000 miles that I can't get the swingarm linkage bolt out of... I even managed to cram the frame into my 12 ton shop press to no avail. It will simply not budge. Since it's most likely frozen in the steel sleeves that the swingarm bearings ride on, cutting it out might be viable if you've got a replacement bolt and sleeves. You're going to have to be careful and take pretty much everything off the rear end to get at it (and probably kill many many blades). IMO, I'd fix the easy cheap stuff and ride the thing until it keels over. Oil is cheap and you'll be able to probably make your money back on it by parting it out to the list after it dies. Z

Sam King
Posts: 52
Joined: Sun Dec 09, 2001 4:01 pm

2003 klx 300 - for sale

Post by Sam King » Thu Jun 28, 2007 11:00 am

I have a 2003 KLX 300 for sale. I purchased it new. I have ridden it 3 times. I just don't have time to ride it anymore. It has been sitting around all winter and I have not been able to get it to crank over but I am sure it just needs a carb cleaning. If you are interested please email me directly at: sambking@... or call me at: 732.890.6126 I am located outside of Philadelphia about 30 minutes in Berwyn, PA. The zip code is: 19312 Thanks! Sam King

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