partial goodbye klr hello vstrom

[Norm Keller]

>I had wired up a Powerlet socket to the 2 >existing but otherwise >unused running light connectors up in the >fairing. While testing the >result with a voltmeter I was surprised to see >only 10.2V.

This is typical of the KLR (and most motorcycles) because the wiring is very light. Removing the load of the headlight, which is the main load on the system, will reduce the voltage drop for the other components such as tail light, horn, and so on. This is an advantage in addition to the better headlight performance. For those who aren't as familiar with the KLR electrical system: The KLR has three fuses: 1) The Main fuse which leads off the battery and protects the White wire leading from the Main fuse (above the battery) to the ignition switch. All power to the KLR electrical system (with engine not running*) comes off this wire and through this fuse. The Main fuse is located on top of the battery which requires removing side covers and seat. (Groan!) I relocate the two fuses to either the left frame tube for the earlier modifications or later ones to the area behind the right tank shroud where I also place the accessory relay and headlight relays. *Note the condition "with engine not running"- more on this later. The cooling fan is powered off the White wire and this is why the cooling fan can run with ignition switch off. 2) Cooling fan fuse which branches off the White (main power wire) leading from the battery to the ignition switch. This fuse is located on the coolant tank support frame and can be reached up under the right tank shroud. 3) Headlight fuse which is located with the Main fuse above the battery. This fuse is fed by the Brown wire which leads off the ignition switch. I recommend that everyone consult their wiring diagram even if you don't plan to do any wiring. Notice that the Brown wire comes from the ignition switch. This means that this circuit is on, only when the ignition switch is on. Notice that the ignition switch only receives power (* with engine not running) when the Main fuse is intact. Trace this so you see what I'm talking about. Not so difficult is it? Battery, Main fuse, branch to the regulator/rectifier, another branch to the cooling fan fuse and cooling fan, White wire continues to the ignition switch. Simple circuit. From the above, it can be seen that a blown Main fuse will stop current flow to the cooling fan and also to the ignition switch. Simple, right? So, if the cooling fan fuse blows the cooling fan will not function but there will be power to the ignition switch. And, if the Main fuse blows, there will not be power to either the cooling fan circuit or to the ignition switch, right? Simple! Find the Brown wire leading from the ignition switch.....gaaack! Look at how many wires lead off that one! Before you panic or decide that this is too complicated, let me point out that you have ten fingers (including thumbs) and generally succeed in getting through each day without sticking one in your eye! (VBG) Since there are fewer than ten circuits off the Brown wire, this is simpler that not poking one's eye. (VBG) A copy of the wiring diagram is really handy for new users since it can be marked up by pencil and highlighter. Use two pencils or other pointers to follow the Brown wire to the first junction and keep one pencil touching the junction point. This will make it easy to go back to the junction if you loose your path or when you are ready to continue to the next branch. Use the other pencil to follow the Brown wire along the branch until it reaches the component. Simple, right? Now you know how that component gets its power. Continue until you get cross-eyed or bored. It is a good thing to do this several times until you begin to remember where the wires connect. When you look at a component such as the horn, the path to the horn will come to mind and it will be easy to refresh your mind later if you need to trouble shoot. Here's a really interesting aspect to the headlight circuit. Finally he gets to something which begins to address the question.........(VBG) The headlight fuse is fed by the Brown wire which means that the headlight fuse only received power when the ignition switch is on and the Main fuse is intact. Simple, right? You saw that from the wiring diagram. IMO the interesting aspect of the headlight wiring off the Brown wire is that all of the other components which are switched (turned off when ignition is off) by the ignition switch are provided power through the Main fuse. All KLR electrical components can fault and blow the Main fuse which will open the circuit. This will take out everything. The weird part is that the headlight or cooling fan are the only components which have their own fuses. This means that only the headlight and cooling fan can fault, blow their own fuse and not blow the (bigger) Main fuse. This means that blowing either of the (arguably) most important components will blow a fuse and leave the other, less important, components operating! This assumes that you think having the dash lights out is more of an issue than having the cooling fan fail or the headlight. If you short the city light wires, you will not blow the headlight fuse because this circuit is not supplied by the headlight fuse. The city light circuit is supplied by the Main fuse. If the Main fuse is blown, it will stop power to headlight, running lights, instruments, turn signals, horn, brake lights, starter relay, etc. Conclusion, the Main fuse and Main circuit supplied through the White wire are still active. I just double checked this by grounding the city light wire on my bike which took out the Main fuse only. You need to look elsewhere for the problem. There are a number of wiring strategies I don't like regarding the KLR. These are some of them. *engine not running. Some will have noticed that the bike will keep going and operate quite nicely but may fail to start. Trouble shooting will determine that the Main fuse is blown. Replacing the Main fuse will get things going again. Are you reading this, Tony? OK, how can the bike operate with the Main fuse blown? Doesn't this mean that the Main fuse must be blowing when the bike is shut off? Not necessarily (or, IMO, even likely). Trace the White wire from the battery, through the Main fuse to the ignition switch again. Remember the Cooling Fan circuit? Do you also recall the White wire branches to the regulator/rectifier? The regulator/rectifier connects to the White wire after the Main fuse which means that the alternator can supply the White wire with power when the engine is running, even without the Main fuse (or battery). If the Main fuse is blown or the battery is dead, a problem comes when the ignition is switch is turned off because no power will be available once the engine has stopped. If the engine is turned by bump starting, the ignition circuit will function because it is independent from the battery circuit. The engine can run and the alternator will begin to function. When ever engine speed is high enough to produce sufficient alternator output, the electrical system will behave normally. Things may behave strangely at lower RPM or idle because the alternator may not be able to keep up with the demand. I'm tired of typing for now. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

>Thanks Jeff, you were of course correct. And >my weekend ride is back >on (after a quick trip to Schucks for a handful >of new 10A fuses...)

Glad you are back in operation but don't think you've dealt with the root cause. Is it possible that you have a 10 amp fuse in the Main fuse holder? The Main fuse should be a 20 amp on the KLR and many of use recommend a 15 amp for the Headlight fuse. This is really making me wonder because the Headlight fuse does not supply the accessories you describe and nothing would function with the Main fuse blown. The only way I can see that would match your symptoms would be if the Blue/White wire which leads from the Headlight fuse to the dimmer switch were powered. Since you are going again and I'm not sure if you are wishing to pursue this further I will await your needs and get on with the big pile of things I need to do. It is possible that your wiring has been changed from stock. Anyone who has time and an extra Main fuse can test this out be grounding the City Light wire. You will see that it blows the Main fuse and not the Headlight fuse. You will also see that nothing works with the Main fuse blown. When you are in there, replace the Main fuse and pull the Headlight fuse. Only the Headlight and running lights go out. Back to you, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[will gilmore]

Funny that this topic is coming up days before my new Wee-Strom arrives at my Suzuki dealer. Chances are I'll hang onto my A12 for short commutes and a little dirt riding. I sat on the new 2008 KLR but then I test rode both the DL1000 and DL650 and got totally blown over by the later. Well, I'm still lovin my Thumper but my tired old butt needs a bit more highway comfort without loosing the ability to take off on a dirt or gravel road now and then.