partial goodbye klr hello vstrom

[Kevin Powers]

While riding a new-to-me KLR last week I encountered some electrical problems. The lights went out, the tach stopped working and my heated vest stopped heating. The bike still ran, but no juice. At the coffee stop folks commented on my lights being out, and when I tried to start the bike there was no reaction when I turned the key (no dash lights, etc) or pushed the start button. We were able to bump start the bike and I headed home. At home, I checked the fuses and battery. The fuses looked good and a check with a circuit tester showed they were ok. The battery was warm to the touch, and some of the cells were very low on fluid. I'm not sure if this is a cause of the problems or a symptom? I replaced the battery with a known good battery, but it hasn't helped. Still no dash lights when I turn the key, no horn, no starter, etc. I replaced the fuses but that didn't help either. (I've also ordered a blade fuse conversion kit to replace the glass fuses). I've got 12.7 volts at the battery. I've got 12.7 volts where the white wire plugs into the ignition switch. When I put a circuit tester to the white and brown wires at the ignition switch the circuit testing light goes on and off when I turn the key on and off; none of the other wires complete a circuit with the white wire However, with the key on I don't have any voltage at the brown wire or blue/white wire at the 10-amp fuse - I expected to see 12.7 volts here. Is there any reason at this point to bump starting the bike to check the charging system? I'm thinking the best course is to solve the problem of why there isn't any juice to the lights starter, etc. first. I'm muddling along here folks. Anyone have any suggestions? Oh, can anyone point me to the locations where the wiring harness is grounded to the fram so I can check and clean the ground? -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN

[rosslindberg]

I'm no electrical genius by any means, but I did have the same problem you're having on a skid-steer loader. I finally traced it to a bad connection in a splicing block, where a bunch of wires came together and could be split for easier servicing. I unplugged the two halves, plugged it back together and everything worked. My KLR is new, so I'm not tha familiar with the electrical system yet, but I would look for something similar near the ignition switch. If nothing is working I'd bet it's either that, or a bad ground second. Let us know what you find. Ross Fertile, MN --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin Powers" wrote:

> > While riding a new-to-me KLR last week I encountered some

electrical

> problems. The lights went out, the tach stopped working and my

heated

> vest stopped heating. The bike still ran, but no juice. At the

coffee

> stop folks commented on my lights being out, and when I tried to

start

> the bike there was no reaction when I turned the key (no dash

lights,

> etc) or pushed the start button. We were able to bump start the

bike

> and I headed home. > > At home, I checked the fuses and battery. The fuses looked good

and a

> check with a circuit tester showed they were ok. The battery was

warm

> to the touch, and some of the cells were very low on fluid. I'm not > sure if this is a cause of the problems or a symptom? > > I replaced the battery with a known good battery, but it hasn't > helped. Still no dash lights when I turn the key, no horn, no

starter,

> etc. I replaced the fuses but that didn't help either. (I've also > ordered a blade fuse conversion kit to replace the glass fuses). > > I've got 12.7 volts at the battery. I've got 12.7 volts where the > white wire plugs into the ignition switch. When I put a circuit > tester to the white and brown wires at the ignition switch the

circuit

> testing light goes on and off when I turn the key on and off; none

of

> the other wires complete a circuit with the white wire However,

with

> the key on I don't have any voltage at the brown wire or blue/white > wire at the 10-amp fuse - I expected to see 12.7 volts here. > > Is there any reason at this point to bump starting the bike to

check

> the charging system? I'm thinking the best course is to solve the > problem of why there isn't any juice to the lights starter, etc. > first. > > I'm muddling along here folks. Anyone have any suggestions? Oh,

can

> anyone point me to the locations where the wiring harness is

grounded

> to the fram so I can check and clean the ground? > -- > Kevin Powers > White Bear Lake, MN >

[Analog Aardvark]

Kevin-- Not sure how much help I can offer, but let me try. It sounds like you may not have a Clymer manual yet. If not, I'd strongly suggest getting one: p.205 Walks you through testing the ignition switch "1. Separate the plug (duh... they're of course talking about the plug in front of the speedo) 2. Connet an ohmeter to the black/yellow wire and the black/white wire. When the ignition switch is in the lock, off, or park position there should be continuity. 3. Connect the ohmeter to the white wire and the brown wire. When the ignition switch is in the on position there should be continuity. 4. Connect the ohmeter to the red wire and the red/white wire. This is the light circuit. If necessary, refer to the wiring diagram at the back of the manual. When the ignition swithc is in the on position there should be continuity. 5. Replace or repair the assembly if it fails any of the checks" Also, you can find a full color wiring diagram, including a blow-up of how the ignition switch works, here: http://www.bigcee.com/faq/KLR650-color-wiring-diagram.jpg I don't think the charging system is the culprit... if you put a known good battery in, for the purposes of trouble shooting the charging system is irrelevant. Also, I don't thinkmost of the KLR electrical system uses the frame as an active ground. It works (I've grounded accessories to the frame) but if you look on the bike I believe most if not all of the lights ground through the black/yellow wire... the starter frame grounds maybe? But it wouldn't affect your problems here I don't think. I suggest getting a cup of coffee, the ohmeter/testlight, and the wiring diagram and getting comfy. You basically need to just plod along the path the juice runs confirming it's there until you find the place it's NOT there. Maybe someone else has a more enlightened suggestion, but it sounds to me like that's where you're at. Good luck. -Luke --- Kevin Powers wrote:

> While riding a new-to-me KLR last week I encountered > some electrical > problems. The lights went out, the tach stopped > working and my heated > vest stopped heating. The bike still ran, but no > juice. At the coffee > stop folks commented on my lights being out, and > when I tried to start > the bike there was no reaction when I turned the key > (no dash lights, > etc) or pushed the start button. We were able to > bump start the bike > and I headed home. > > At home, I checked the fuses and battery. The fuses > looked good and a > check with a circuit tester showed they were ok. The > battery was warm > to the touch, and some of the cells were very low on > fluid. I'm not > sure if this is a cause of the problems or a > symptom? > > I replaced the battery with a known good battery, > but it hasn't > helped. Still no dash lights when I turn the key, no > horn, no starter, > etc. I replaced the fuses but that didn't help > either. (I've also > ordered a blade fuse conversion kit to replace the > glass fuses). > > I've got 12.7 volts at the battery. I've got 12.7 > volts where the > white wire plugs into the ignition switch. When I > put a circuit > tester to the white and brown wires at the ignition > switch the circuit > testing light goes on and off when I turn the key on > and off; none of > the other wires complete a circuit with the white > wire However, with > the key on I don't have any voltage at the brown > wire or blue/white > wire at the 10-amp fuse - I expected to see 12.7 > volts here. > > Is there any reason at this point to bump starting > the bike to check > the charging system? I'm thinking the best course > is to solve the > problem of why there isn't any juice to the lights > starter, etc. > first. > > I'm muddling along here folks. Anyone have any > suggestions? Oh, can > anyone point me to the locations where the wiring > harness is grounded > to the fram so I can check and clean the ground? > -- > Kevin Powers > White Bear Lake, MN >

____________________________________________________________________________________ Sponsored Link Don't quit your job - take classes online www.Classesusa.com

[slademitchell]

Well, I just made a bone-head mistake that has killed my headlight and instrument cluster illumination lamps. I'm hoping someone can point me to the fuse I burned out (and I'm hoping that's all it is.) I had wired up a Powerlet socket to the 2 existing but otherwise unused running light connectors up in the fairing. While testing the result with a voltmeter I was surprised to see only 10.2V. To double- check I attempted to test again but I must have shorted out the +/- contacts in the socket because suddenly my headlight died and the voltmeter was reading 0. (I'm pretty sure I heard a pop, but not 100%) Anyway, upon further testing of the rest of the electrical components: - The headlight is dead - The running light connectors are dead - The lamps to illuminate the instrument cluster are dead - The turn signals work fine - The horn works - The brake light works - The starter works - Haven't tested the fan So, I'm hoping this is just a burned out fuse but I'll be damned if I can find it - and the wiring diagram in my Clymer manual doesn't seem to indicate a fuse that would take out only the things I've described above. (I'm not an electrician though, so it's perfectly likely that I'm just not reading it correctly.) There is one very small fuse in a white inline fuse holder on the left side of the fairing - where all of the other electrical connectors meet - but it tested OK (.6 ohms or so) Just to make things interesting, I upgraded to the Left Hand Plug&Play switch - not sure if that would introduce some new fuse somewhere... Does anyone have a hint of where I should be looking? Might I have possibly done something more damaging than just burned out a fuse? This is a total long shot, but what the heck. I'm supposed to ride out Saturday morning for a 2-day trip so I'm likely going to have to rush the bike into a dealer tomorrow - but if it turns out someone can point me in the right direction it would save me the trip/time. Thanks, Slade (The guy who should NEVER play with electricity ...)

[tlh]

Sounds like the 10 amp fuse which is located in the fuse holder under the seat.. albatross who gets a tingle playing with electrons

----- Original Message ----- From: slademitchell To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 1:23 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Electrical help Well, I just made a bone-head mistake that has killed my headlight and instrument cluster illumination lamps. I'm hoping someone can point me to the fuse I burned out (and I'm hoping that's all it is.) I had wired up a Powerlet socket to the 2 existing but otherwise unused running light connectors up in the fairing. While testing the result with a voltmeter I was surprised to see only 10.2V. To double- check I attempted to test again but I must have shorted out the +/- contacts in the socket because suddenly my headlight died and the voltmeter was reading 0. (I'm pretty sure I heard a pop, but not 100%) Anyway, upon further testing of the rest of the electrical components: - The headlight is dead - The running light connectors are dead - The lamps to illuminate the instrument cluster are dead - The turn signals work fine - The horn works - The brake light works - The starter works - Haven't tested the fan So, I'm hoping this is just a burned out fuse but I'll be damned if I can find it - and the wiring diagram in my Clymer manual doesn't seem to indicate a fuse that would take out only the things I've described above. (I'm not an electrician though, so it's perfectly likely that I'm just not reading it correctly.) There is one very small fuse in a white inline fuse holder on the left side of the fairing - where all of the other electrical connectors meet - but it tested OK (.6 ohms or so) Just to make things interesting, I upgraded to the Left Hand Plug&Play switch - not sure if that would introduce some new fuse somewhere... Does anyone have a hint of where I should be looking? Might I have possibly done something more damaging than just burned out a fuse? This is a total long shot, but what the heck. I'm supposed to ride out Saturday morning for a 2-day trip so I'm likely going to have to rush the bike into a dealer tomorrow - but if it turns out someone can point me in the right direction it would save me the trip/time. Thanks, Slade (The guy who should NEVER play with electricity ...) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 05:23:08 -0000 "slademitchell" writes:

> Well, I just made a bone-head mistake that has killed my headlight > and instrument cluster illumination lamps. I'm hoping someone can > point me to the fuse I burned out (and I'm hoping that's all it > is.)

SNIP

> Does anyone have a hint of where I should be looking? Might I have > possibly done something more damaging than just burned out a fuse?

SNIP

> Thanks, > > Slade > (The guy who should NEVER play with electricity ...)

<><><><><> <><><><><> Slade, I'm with Albatross, I'm betting on the 10 amp fuse under the seat on top of the battery if your fuses are still stock. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Norm Keller]

The headlight fuse handles the headlight. The headlight fuse received power from the Brown wire leading from the ignition switch. If this fuse blows you will have no headlight. The ignition switch receives power through the white wire from the Main fuse. If the Main fuse blows you will have no power. I'm late for work now so can't do more.I'll try to remember to review your post but email directly if you need help. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[slademitchell]

The Albatross Wins! I'm not sure whether I'm more happy that it's a simple fix or wish it was something more complicated so I don't look like such an idiot - but whatever, I'm used to the idiot thing. Thanks Jeff, you were of course correct. And my weekend ride is back on (after a quick trip to Schucks for a handful of new 10A fuses...) Slade (Properly humbled)

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > I'm with Albatross, I'm betting on the 10 amp fuse under the seat on top > of the battery if your fuses are still stock. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "slademitchell" wrote:

> > The Albatross Wins! > > I'm not sure whether I'm more happy that it's a simple fix or wish it > was something more complicated so I don't look like such an idiot - > but whatever, I'm used to the idiot thing. > > Thanks Jeff, you were of course correct. And my weekend ride is back > on (after a quick trip to Schucks for a handful of new 10A fuses...) > > > Slade > (Properly humbled)

Slade, Properly humbled? thats nonsense. Properly informed, properly educated, and properly befriended. smile. Good list, good friends, and you learn something also. Now: Go change the gas and tells us pogues (=working stiffs)how much fun you had on your trip this weekend. revmaaatin. ps; if you take rain gear, 'remember' you packed it. ask me how I know....

[Stuart Mumford]

> -----Original Message----- > > Thanks Jeff, you were of course correct. And my weekend ride is back > on (after a quick trip to Schucks for a handful of new 10A fuses...) > > > Slade > (Properly humbled) >

Should have got 15A fuses. Thanks CA Stu