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[corky69mobile]

I just put a 14 tooth sprocket on and the chain seems tight. Moves about 1/2 inch both ways 1 total inch. But when i sit on the bike its really tight. Is my setting ok or is it to tight??????? PLEASE help THX

[CA Stu]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "corky69mobile" wrote:

> > I just put a 14 tooth sprocket on and the chain seems tight. Moves > about 1/2 inch both ways 1 total inch. But when i sit on the bike its > really tight. Is my setting ok or is it to tight??????? PLEASE help

THX

>

Too tight by far. Thanks CA Stu

[Doug Herr]

On Mon, 14 May 2007, corky69mobile wrote:

> I just put a 14 tooth sprocket on and the chain seems tight. Moves > about 1/2 inch both ways 1 total inch. But when i sit on the bike its > really tight. Is my setting ok or is it to tight??????? PLEASE help THX

Way too tight, please don't ride it like that. -- Doug Herr doug@... A16 in Oakland, California

[dooden]

My method.... not sure what the book says.. Bike on sidestand, I push up on the chain near the front of the swingarm, if it almost touches I call it good. If it touches it tends to slap around. Your way most likely will destroy the c/s seal. Dooden A15 Green Ape --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "corky69mobile" wrote:

> > I just put a 14 tooth sprocket on and the chain seems tight. Moves > about 1/2 inch both ways 1 total inch. But when i sit on the bike its > really tight. Is my setting ok or is it to tight??????? PLEASE help THX >

[jeania lumby]

how much should it move. how do i know if its tight enough. or even if its loose enough. --------------------------------- Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Andrus Chesley]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "corky69mobile" wrote:

> > I just put a 14 tooth sprocket on and the chain seems tight. Moves > about 1/2 inch both ways 1 total inch. But when i sit on the bike its > really tight. Is my setting ok or is it to tight??????? PLEASE help THX >

I've always kept my chain loose enuff to just touch the rubber guide at the bottom of the swingarm. Run that tight and your gonna pay big bucks soon. Andy > Offshore Louisiana

[Jeff Saline]

On Mon, 14 May 2007 17:16:35 -0700 (PDT) jeania lumby writes:

> how much should it move. how do i know if its tight enough. or even > if its loose enough.

<><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><> Jeania, One way to check tension takes two people at least but is pretty accurate. Have someone from the rear of the bike lean on the rack and push down. They should grab the swing arm and pull on it. This will cause your rear suspension to squat. Have a yard stick for alignment purposes and view it from the left side while having the person on the rack pull on the swingarm until the countershaft (front sprocket), swingarm pivot and rear axle are all in line. Then check the chain tension. You should have just a tad of slack but not sloppy. When the rear suspension is squatted so the countershaft, swingarm pivot and rear axle are all in line the chain is at it's tightest position. Remember geometry in school. Yeah, I don't remember it much either. : ) Once you've figured out the correct adjustment then check the bike on it's side stand with the rear suspension bounced a time or to so it's at it's "relaxed" position. From then on you'll be able to easily check chain tension. Dave Jakeman and I had a talk a few years ago about chains and sprockets. He suggested trying something Steve Rankin and I now do when riding together to check chain tension. Do this on a straight section of road that isn't crowded. Have the person you're riding with pull along the left side of you. Accelerate gently and have the person on the left observe your chain motion. If it's vibrating it's too tight. If it's flopping around it's too loose. If it's making nice gentle waves it's probably about right. Steve and I are about the same weight so we've swapped bikes for the chain check once or twice. That way we've seen our own bike under motion and know what our chains are doing. Then comparing the view of the other bike's chain we can compare chain tensions. Now all we do on a ride are make a couple of quick hand signals and then get an ok sign or a too tight or too loose signal. I'd guess 9 times out of 10 or better we both get the ok sign. This is also a good diversion when on the Navajo Indian Reservation in Arizona in 100 degree heat for a couple of hours in the afternoon. It breaks the monotony for a few minutes. For my own check I like to push up on the bottom line of chain at the front of the rubber on the swing arm. When my chain just about touches it the top line of chain should be coming off the swing arm. This works for me every time. Also be careful about rear wheel alignment as it affects chain alignment and the handling of the bike. The metal pieces on the swingarm with an alignment mark to index on the divisions on the swingarm for chain alignment can move about 1/8". So a person using just them could be off maybe close to 1/4" if one is forward and the other is to the rear. And being off 1/4" at the axle is way way off when you get to the countershaft sprocket. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[gmay131313]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, jeania lumby wrote:

> > how much should it move. how do i know if its tight enough. or even

if its loose enough. Hi, the Clymer manual call's for supporting the bike with it's rear tire off the ground and looking for a total up and down movement of 2 - 2.4 inches as measured at the midpoint of the swingarm, not the easiet check to do on a regular basis. The way I do it, probably like a lot of people I'm sure is to adjust it once this way then to let the bike down, put it unladed on it's side stand and from the underside see if you can push the chain up enough to touch the bottom of your swing arm. If you can, note that point, if not note how much the gap the is at a convenient spot for repeatably. I also like to compress the rear suspension completely through it's stroke to make sure that the chain doesn't get too tight anywhere in it's stroke, a couple of assistants or a ratcheting tie down are the easiest way I've founnd for this. One thing to remember is if you change from say to a 13 tooth sprocket from a 15, the difference in circumference, though slight will change the gap if any if you use the above on the sidestand check mentioned above. Too tight is a very bad thing. I'm sure there are probably many other ways to do it but this has always worked for me...Have a great day...Greg

> > --------------------------------- > Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone

who knows.

> Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Darren Clark]

I've been using a racheting tie strap to compress my rear suspension. One hook on the rear grab handle, through the rim and back up the other side. Pull real tight and start racheting. This works best on a stand, using the kick stand it will probably fall over. Darren Clark 2004 KLR-650 Fowlerville, MI Jeff Saline wrote:

>On Mon, 14 May 2007 17:16:35 -0700 (PDT) jeania lumby > writes: > > >>how much should it move. how do i know if its tight enough. or even >>if its loose enough. >> >> ><><><><><><><><><><> ><><><><><><><><><><> > >Jeania, > >One way to check tension takes two people at least but is pretty >accurate. > >Have someone from the rear of the bike lean on the rack and push down. >They should grab the swing arm and pull on it. This will cause your rear >suspension to squat. Have a yard stick for alignment purposes and view >it from the left side while having the person on the rack pull on the >swingarm until the countershaft (front sprocket), swingarm pivot and rear >axle are all in line. Then check the chain tension. You should have >just a tad of slack but not sloppy. > >When the rear suspension is squatted so the countershaft, swingarm pivot >and rear axle are all in line the chain is at it's tightest position. >Remember geometry in school. Yeah, I don't remember it much either. : ) > >Once you've figured out the correct adjustment then check the bike on >it's side stand with the rear suspension bounced a time or to so it's at >it's "relaxed" position. From then on you'll be able to easily check >chain tension. > >Dave Jakeman and I had a talk a few years ago about chains and sprockets. > He suggested trying something Steve Rankin and I now do when riding >together to check chain tension. Do this on a straight section of road >that isn't crowded. Have the person you're riding with pull along the >left side of you. Accelerate gently and have the person on the left >observe your chain motion. If it's vibrating it's too tight. If it's >flopping around it's too loose. If it's making nice gentle waves it's >probably about right. Steve and I are about the same weight so we've >swapped bikes for the chain check once or twice. That way we've seen our >own bike under motion and know what our chains are doing. Then comparing >the view of the other bike's chain we can compare chain tensions. Now >all we do on a ride are make a couple of quick hand signals and then get >an ok sign or a too tight or too loose signal. I'd guess 9 times out of >10 or better we both get the ok sign. This is also a good diversion when >on the Navajo Indian Reservation in Arizona in 100 degree heat for a >couple of hours in the afternoon. It breaks the monotony for a few >minutes. > >For my own check I like to push up on the bottom line of chain at the >front of the rubber on the swing arm. When my chain just about touches >it the top line of chain should be coming off the swing arm. This works >for me every time. > >Also be careful about rear wheel alignment as it affects chain alignment >and the handling of the bike. The metal pieces on the swingarm with an >alignment mark to index on the divisions on the swingarm for chain >alignment can move about 1/8". So a person using just them could be off >maybe close to 1/4" if one is forward and the other is to the rear. And >being off 1/4" at the axle is way way off when you get to the >countershaft sprocket. > >Best, > >Jeff Saline >ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal >Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org >The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota >75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[D Critchley]

In the manual, the procedure is that while on the side stand, there should be 50 to 60 mm play at the centre point of the chain. That is total movement up and down should measure between 50 and 60 mm at the midpoint of the bottom part of the chain. They suggest that a steel tape standing on its' back with tape vertical is a good way to measure it. It has worked out well for me for 83,000 km. Seems simple , doesn't it? DC Jeff Saline wrote:

>On Mon, 14 May 2007 17:16:35 -0700 (PDT) jeania lumby > writes: > > >>how much should it move. how do i know if its tight enough. or even >> >> >> > >