ok so inquirung minds want to know??? how mny miles do you have

[breend01]

Dealer says they found very bad fork leak visible at bottom of fork boot, must be repaired ($82.50) before sticker. Two questions: 1) How much are parts and can I do this myself? I am farly good with a wrench. 2) Not having seen this leak yet (though I do a visual inspection before riding), does this sound like opportunism to anyone? Thanks, Boxer011

[dooden]

Fred sells fork seals for about $20, many how to's online to replace them, plus might consider flushing forks at the same time. Only thing I bought was a 4 way PVC connector, I think it was 1 1/4 " that I used to push the new seals into place. http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Breakers/8462/KLR650/ForkSeal-RR.html Talks about it. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "breend01" wrote: > > Dealer says they found very bad fork leak visible at bottom of fork > boot, must be repaired ($82.50) before sticker. Two questions: > 1) How much are parts and can I do this myself? I am farly good with > a wrench. > 2) Not having seen this leak yet (though I do a visual inspection > before riding), does this sound like opportunism to anyone? > Thanks, > > Boxer011 >

[C L Cooper]

I rebuilt mine - completely disassembled, anodized lower shock tubes, installed Race Tech gold valves, progressive springs, reassembled - using my Clymer's manual and KLR web posts. No problem. Very satisfying project. Make sure you line all the tools, shock oil, parts up before you disassemble. If you haven't done it yet, installing progressive springs will make a big difference in handling. I also feel the Race Tech valves were a huge improvement over stock. Chuck C San Diego, CA

On 5/10/07, breend01 wrote: > > Dealer says they found very bad fork leak visible at bottom of fork > boot, must be repaired ($82.50) before sticker. Two questions: > 1) How much are parts and can I do this myself? I am farly good with > a wrench. > 2) Not having seen this leak yet (though I do a visual inspection > before riding), does this sound like opportunism to anyone? > Thanks, > > Boxer011 > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John Kokola]

Where are you folks having the anodizing done? --John Kokola C L Cooper wrote:

> > I rebuilt mine - completely disassembled, anodized lower shock tubes, > installed Race Tech gold valves, progressive springs, reassembled - > using my > Clymer's manual and KLR web posts. No problem. Very satisfying > project. Make > sure you line all the tools, shock oil, parts up before you disassemble. > > If you haven't done it yet, installing progressive springs will make a big > difference in handling. I also feel the Race Tech valves were a huge > improvement over stock. > > Chuck C > San Diego, CA > > On 5/10/07, breend01 > wrote: > > > > Dealer says they found very bad fork leak visible at bottom of fork > > boot, must be repaired ($82.50) before sticker. Two questions: > > 1) How much are parts and can I do this myself? I am farly good with > > a wrench. > > 2) Not having seen this leak yet (though I do a visual inspection > > before riding), does this sound like opportunism to anyone? > > Thanks, > > > > Boxer011 > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, John Kokola wrote:

> > Where are you folks having the anodizing done? > > --John Kokola

John, It was done at a local shop I've been using for 20 plus years, going back to the aerospace days. For those that are not familiar with this process don't let anyone convince you that soft anodize will work as well. all the best, Mike

[Arden Kysely]

Lift up the fork boot and check. If it's messy, clean it up good and ride to to another dealer for your inspection. Keep an eye on it and repair at your convenience. __Arden --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "breend01" wrote:

> > Dealer says they found very bad fork leak visible at bottom of fork > boot, must be repaired ($82.50) before sticker. Two questions: > 1) How much are parts and can I do this myself? I am farly good

with

> a wrench. > 2) Not having seen this leak yet (though I do a visual inspection > before riding), does this sound like opportunism to anyone? > Thanks, > > Boxer011 >

[Dominic Breen]

Chuck, Thanks for your guidance on the fork rebuild. Any suggestions on source for progressive springs? BTW, there really is a leak as the dealer said, just my suspicious nature. The guys at RT3A Motorsports in Tyngsboro, MA have always been fair with me. Thanks, Dominic -----Original Message----- From: C L Cooper [mailto:mail2clc@...] Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 10:41 PM To: breend01 Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Inspection sticker=revenue opportunity? I rebuilt mine - completely disassembled, anodized lower shock tubes, installed Race Tech gold valves, progressive springs, reassembled - using my Clymer's manual and KLR web posts. No problem. Very satisfying project. Make sure you line all the tools, shock oil, parts up before you disassemble. If you haven't done it yet, installing progressive springs will make a big difference in handling. I also feel the Race Tech valves were a huge improvement over stock. Chuck C San Diego, CA

On 5/10/07, breend01 wrote: Dealer says they found very bad fork leak visible at bottom of fork boot, must be repaired ($82.50) before sticker. Two questions: 1) How much are parts and can I do this myself? I am farly good with a wrench. 2) Not having seen this leak yet (though I do a visual inspection before riding), does this sound like opportunism to anyone? Thanks, Boxer011 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[C L Cooper]

John, Mike was great in hooking me up on the anodizing. The front lower shock tubes, swing arm, swing arm end caps, shark fin and mounting brackets, suspension knuckle and connecting links (Mikes stock length but lighter than stock links) were all hard anodized "natural" color. I did the work, Mike advised and inspired.... ;~) The shop did a nice job. Even though some of the metals are dissimilar the end product came out very consistently as a dark slate grayish/green. Nearly the same color as the '01 engine color. It all ties together nicely. I didn't like the black - too dark. As Mike said, the end product came out very KLRish. Just what I was looking for. Chuck C San Diego, CA

On 5/10/07, John Kokola wrote: > > Where are you folks having the anodizing done? > > --John Kokola > > C L Cooper wrote: > > > > I rebuilt mine - completely disassembled, anodized lower shock tubes, > > installed Race Tech gold valves, progressive springs, reassembled - > > using my > > Clymer's manual and KLR web posts. No problem. Very satisfying > > project. Make > > sure you line all the tools, shock oil, parts up before you disassemble. > > > > If you haven't done it yet, installing progressive springs will make a > big > > difference in handling. I also feel the Race Tech valves were a huge > > improvement over stock. > > > > Chuck C > > San Diego, CA > > > > On 5/10/07, breend01 > > > wrote: > > > > > > Dealer says they found very bad fork leak visible at bottom of fork > > > boot, must be repaired ($82.50) before sticker. Two questions: > > > 1) How much are parts and can I do this myself? I am farly good with > > > a wrench. > > > 2) Not having seen this leak yet (though I do a visual inspection > > > before riding), does this sound like opportunism to anyone? > > > Thanks, > > > > > > Boxer011 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

If you're not in a hurry to do the fork seals, you might get one of the Motion Pro 08-0356 Seal Mate Seal Cleaners (or equivalent) and try cleaning under the seal lips. This will sometimes do the trick. Regardless, the tool is very inexpensive and handy for other things. HIH Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[a14@att.net]

If you wrap a piece of masking tape around the fork above the seal and compress the forks a dozen times or so the tape cleans the seal enough that sometimes that is all it needs. Walt

> If you're not in a hurry to do the fork seals, you might get one of the Motion > Pro 08-0356 Seal Mate Seal Cleaners (or equivalent) and try cleaning under the > seal lips. This will sometimes do the trick. Regardless, the tool is very > inexpensive and handy for other things. > > HIH > > Norm > >