the new klr is too heavy.

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cavanadd" wrote:

> I installed a set of Kenda K270s on my '88 KLR and now I have a BAD > high speed wobble. The wobble starts itself at above about 70, and > between 60 and 70 it can be set off by a gust of wind or a truck > passing. It's really annoying and limits my ability to be able to ride > on the freeway.

Been there, done that. 1. Make sure your head bearing is tight. There should be a slight amount of drag from the bearing when you turn your bars with the front wheel up in the air. 2. Make sure your wheels are balanced and true. I can balance my wheels to 1/4oz using the high-quality bearings installed in them and used a makeshift "truing stand" of duct tape and pieces of welding rod to make sure the wheels were true in both the up/down and side-side directions. 3. Add some air to your front shocks. 4. Bump up the preload on your rear shock. 5. Take out the super-thick tubes in your tires (one at a time, starting with the rear tire) and replace them with normal-thickness tubes and see if that helps. (It does help with some similar cheap knobbies, like the Kings KT-966). 6. Play with your air pressure. The front should be at around 20PS, otherwise it will track flaws in the pavement too well and be easy to disrupt. 7. If all else fails, dump the tires. I am very pleased with the behavior of the Continental TKC-80 knobbies on pavement (other than their short lifespan). Others can give you more info on knobbies that'll handle high speeds without wobbling.

> try with out the top box next, but I am afraid I may have to get rid of > these tires. I'm not real crazy about their overall performance on > pavement.

That may well be. My impression of people who think that the Kenda 270 does acceptably well on the street is that they're pretty good dirt riders. As someone who has also owned a sport bike in the past, I find the Kenda 270 to be absolutely atrocious on the street -- squirmy, slippery when wet, and altogether too easy to lock up with even minimal pressure on the levers. _E

[Garrett Smith]

Hi Dave, Some riders have reported good results with removing the stock front fender and replacing it with the smaller fender (the name of the smaller unit escapes me), and switching the stock stock hand guards. My bike has neither so I can't comment but I've never a a bad wobble. Have had minor wobbles when I first got the bike, and attribute it to being rider(me) induced. Not suggesting thats the case here. I changed tires to a TKC 80 on the front and don't recall if it got better as a result of that, but don't recall ever being concerned since. I can't complain about my bike the way it's set up right now. Can you change the front to the old tire to see if there's a difference? Gusty cross winds can also start you wobbling a bit and if you try to correct, but are a little behind, that can induce a wobble as well. When I get passed by a big truck and the bikes moves around a bit due to the wind, I try to put a little pressure on one side of the handlebars and let the bike settle down. Yes you'll turn a bit, I'm talking very slight pressure to stop any rider inputs. Relaxing your grip on one hand usually does the trick. Usually the death grip induces a rider wobble because the bike is moving your arms a bit, then that movement is transmitted back to the bike which increases the instability. Vicious circle. Hope the hints help you. Good luck. Garrett Smith www.AdventureMotoTech.com sales@... 1-877-216-7927 cavanadd wrote: I installed a set of Kenda K270s on my '88 KLR and now I have a BAD high speed wobble. The wobble starts itself at above about 70, and between 60 and 70 it can be set off by a gust of wind or a truck passing. It's really annoying and limits my ability to be able to ride on the freeway. If I went much over 70 it feels like it would turn into a tank slapper. Has anyone else experienced this, and were you able to do anything about it? Other info- front end has Progressive springs with about 12 wt oil, bike has #1 raising links with spring and preload both at about mid range, I was running a tall aftermarket windshield, side cases and a 42 liter top box. I tried running with and without the windshield with no difference in handling, and plan to try with out the top box next, but I am afraid I may have to get rid of these tires. I'm not real crazy about their overall performance on pavement. Thanks Dave C --------------------------------- Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[cavanadd]

Thanks for all the replies. I heard a lot of good info; here is what I think I'm going to try: Air pressure: the tires were overpressurized when I started the trip. I reduced the pressure down to a little less than max rated pressure and the shake continued. Steering head bearings: Given this is an '88 and was a relatively low mileage commuter, I doubt if the head bearings have ever been checked. That's the second thing I'm going to address this weekend.... Balance: No, I didn't balance the tires, and I'm also running 4mm tubes. I suspect balance may be an issue (really??? Imagine that...) and will try to build a balancing/truing stand, but I think I can get them reasonably balanced. Shock preload: It was suggested I increase the shock preload. I'm running raising links which already increases the effective shock spring presssure, and when I checked I discovered the preload was a the max (no wonder it was a little harsh...) and the damping was at about #2. I lowered the preload to #3 and I think the damping is at the same; I may lower the preload one more notch and bump the damping up as I think it's oversprung and underdamped. Anyway, it didn't have any effect on the weave. Wheel alignment/chain tightness: I'll check that when I put the wheels back on after balancing, although I think it's reasonably close. Wind/self induced: The weaving would start all by itself at around 70 or 75 mph. At lower speeds, I could push the bars and it would weave a couple of times then damp out, but at higher speeds the only thing that would stop it was to back off on the gas. Thanks again for all the pointers. Dave C

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cavanadd" wrote: > > I installed a set of Kenda K270s on my '88 KLR and now I have a BAD > high speed wobble. The wobble starts itself at above about 70, and > between 60 and 70 it can be set off by a gust of wind or a truck > passing. It's really annoying and limits my ability to be able to ride > on the freeway. If I went much over 70 it feels like it would turn > into a tank slapper. Has anyone else experienced this, and were you > able to do anything about it? Other info- front end has Progressive > springs with about 12 wt oil, bike has #1 raising links with spring and > preload both at about mid range, I was running a tall aftermarket > windshield, side cases and a 42 liter top box. I tried running with > and without the windshield with no difference in handling, and plan to > try with out the top box next, but I am afraid I may have to get rid of > these tires. I'm not real crazy about their overall performance on > pavement. > > Thanks > Dave C >

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cavanadd" wrote:

> > Thanks for all the replies. I heard a lot of good info; here is what > I think I'm going to try: > > Air pressure: the tires were overpressurized when I started the > trip. I reduced the pressure down to a little less than max rated > pressure and the shake continued. > > Steering head bearings: Given this is an '88 and was a relatively > low mileage commuter, I doubt if the head bearings have ever been > checked. That's the second thing I'm going to address this > weekend.... > > Balance: No, I didn't balance the tires, and I'm also running 4mm > tubes. I suspect balance may be an issue (really??? Imagine that...) > and will try to build a balancing/truing stand, but I think I can get > them reasonably balanced. > > Shock preload: It was suggested I increase the shock preload. I'm > running raising links which already increases the effective shock > spring presssure, and when I checked I discovered the preload was a > the max (no wonder it was a little harsh...) and the damping was at > about #2. I lowered the preload to #3 and I think the damping is at > the same; I may lower the preload one more notch and bump the damping > up as I think it's oversprung and underdamped. Anyway, it didn't > have any effect on the weave. > > Wheel alignment/chain tightness: I'll check that when I put the > wheels back on after balancing, although I think it's reasonably > close. > > Wind/self induced: The weaving would start all by itself at around > 70 or 75 mph. At lower speeds, I could push the bars and it would > weave a couple of times then damp out, but at higher speeds the only > thing that would stop it was to back off on the gas. > > Thanks again for all the pointers. > > Dave C >

Dave, You might try starting with the preload at one, see where that gets you, then go to two, etc. Adjust damping as you go to control the spring. Sometimes there is just a bad tire or tires, and things like this happen, too. all the best, Mike

[Blake Sobiloff]

On May 2, 2007, at 8:16 PM, cavanadd wrote:

> Wheel alignment/chain tightness: I'll check that when I put the > wheels back on after balancing, although I think it's reasonably > close.

For the past several weeks I've been struggling with a high speed (around 80 MPH indicated) wobble on my bike as well (Progressive/ RaceTech front; F1 rear; TKC-80's). It happened after I tightened the chain a 1/4 turn to keep it from touching the swingarm. That's all it took to induce the problem. Sigh. I tightened up the steering head bearing a bit and that helped tame it, but it's still lurking there and shows up when I'm down to a couple gallons of gas. I can also induce it by shifting me feet to the passenger footpegs. Drat. Lots of things to check! -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Kimosabe]

I think you've already tried suspension and air pressure. Sometimes shifting your position can help too. Have you tried taking the front fender off to test it? I discovered that to be wobble problem at high speed. I bobbed it a a couple of inches and we're friends now. Steve in Niceville --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Blake Sobiloff wrote:

> > On May 2, 2007, at 8:16 PM, cavanadd wrote: > > Wheel alignment/chain tightness: I'll check that when I put the > > wheels back on after balancing, although I think it's reasonably > > close. > > For the past several weeks I've been struggling with a high speed > (around 80 MPH indicated) wobble on my bike as well (Progressive/ > RaceTech front; F1 rear; TKC-80's). It happened after I tightened > the chain a 1/4 turn to keep it from touching the swingarm.

That's

> all it took to induce the problem. Sigh. > > I tightened up the steering head bearing a bit and that helped

tame

> it, but it's still lurking there and shows up when I'm down to a > couple gallons of gas. I can also induce it by shifting me feet

to

> the passenger footpegs. Drat. > > Lots of things to check! > -- > Blake Sobiloff > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> > San Jose, CA (USA) > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Blake Sobiloff wrote:

> > On May 2, 2007, at 8:16 PM, cavanadd wrote: > > Wheel alignment/chain tightness: I'll check that when I put the > > wheels back on after balancing, although I think it's reasonably > > close. > > For the past several weeks I've been struggling with a high speed > (around 80 MPH indicated) wobble on my bike as well (Progressive/ > RaceTech front; F1 rear; TKC-80's). It happened after I tightened > the chain a 1/4 turn to keep it from touching the swingarm.

That's

> all it took to induce the problem. Sigh. > > I tightened up the steering head bearing a bit and that helped

tame

> it, but it's still lurking there and shows up when I'm down to a > couple gallons of gas. I can also induce it by shifting me feet

to

> the passenger footpegs. Drat. > > Lots of things to check! > -- > Blake Sobiloff

Blake, Is that 'touching' the swing arm on top or the bottom? If you adjusted so it does not touch on top (contrary to the books adjustment). That is why the chain slider is on top, to protect the swingarm while the chain is at low RPM'S. If you are able to watch another person's bike you will see that the chain is high above the slider when you are under steam and moving along. I would suspect that since the vibration started after you tightened the chain, 'you-induced' the problem, with the adjustment. I would guess that if you tightened the chain enough to get it off the slider, the bottom chain is real-tight! revmaaatin.

[Blake Sobiloff]

On May 4, 2007, at 1:59 PM, revmaaatin wrote:

> Is that 'touching' the swing arm on top or the bottom?

Bottom, thankfully! Sorry I wasn't more clear in my message--good question!

> I would suspect that since the vibration started after you tightened > the chain, 'you-induced' the problem, with the adjustment.

Yep, I certainly did induce it, but I believe the chain has the right amount of slack in it now. Maybe my F1 shock changes the correct distance the chain should be from the bottom of the swing arm, making the correct distance for an OEM-shocked bike the incorrect distance for an F1-shocked bike. It looks like I'll need to do some more thorough measurements of the chain slack and see if that's the case. -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Blake Sobiloff]

On May 4, 2007, at 12:58 PM, Kimosabe wrote:

> Have you tried taking the front fender off to test it?

Thanks for the tip, Steve! I haven't done that, as I kinda like that big ugly thing, personally. I didn't have the wobble before with the fender in place, so I'm going to see if I can get back to that sweet place. Thanks, though! -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/blakeblog/> http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> San Jose, CA (USA) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[cavanadd]

I think I have fixed the high speed wobble; it was probably the wheel balance. Today I built a balancing stand and balanced both wheels. The front took an ounce and a quarter, but the back took four and a half (!!) ounces of lead to get it to balance. I also tightened the steering head a touch, but it didn't seem loose and the bars don't flop over, and I got the rear wheel aligned with the front as best I could with the Kenda 270s. I took a ride out on the stretch of US 2 between Highway 9 and the Hewitt Avenue Trestle and was able to hold it at 125 KPH for the first lap, then 135 KPH (I'm watching my Sigma bike speedo which I have calibrated in KPH for riding in Canada) with no significant wobble. It did dance around a little at 135, but that could have been the tread blocks. Speaking of dancing tread blocks, I'm probably not going to go with another set of Kenda 270s when these wear out. They're just too squirelly in corners for my taste, and they fall into the corners way too fast. Given I don't do much off riding and don't plan any two track riding, I think I'll go with a set of Train Wings next. Thanks for all the help. Dave C

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cavanadd" wrote: > > I installed a set of Kenda K270s on my '88 KLR and now I have a BAD > high speed wobble. The wobble starts itself at above about 70, and > between 60 and 70 it can be set off by a gust of wind or a truck > passing. It's really annoying and limits my ability to be able to ride > on the freeway. If I went much over 70 it feels like it would turn > into a tank slapper. Has anyone else experienced this, and were you > able to do anything about it? Other info- front end has Progressive > springs with about 12 wt oil, bike has #1 raising links with spring and > preload both at about mid range, I was running a tall aftermarket > windshield, side cases and a 42 liter top box. I tried running with > and without the windshield with no difference in handling, and plan to > try with out the top box next, but I am afraid I may have to get rid of > these tires. I'm not real crazy about their overall performance on > pavement. > > Thanks > Dave C >