the new klr is too heavy.

[monahanwb@yahoo.com]

The other day I was rolling along on the KLR in the upper speed range. The bike started a fairly strong weave when I got it up to about 95 mph on the speedo. I could have played with weight distribution and throttle and probably gotten it into a real high speed wobble and tank-slapper, that's the direction it wanted to go. I didn't want to go there, so I gently adjusted my riding position and eased back on the throttle to stabilize. I am wondering.....since I've been using the marks on the swingarm for wheel alignment, and I know there are less lazy and mo betta ways to align the wheels, might that be the usual or typical cause of such a wobble? My bike has never done that befo, and I just put a new rear tire (CS 6006) on recently and used the marks to align the axle. Or, I wonder if it was just road grooves or something.

[klr_a4]

Well, I read the whole thread on the issue of high speed wobbles of the klrs front wheel. Don't mean to be a wise ass, but to quote Cheech Marin ( Cheech and Chong), did you check the air in the tires lately? I didn't see this easy fix stated as a possible solution, so thought I'd throw it out there. Rubber inner tubes can slowly lose pressure over time, and low pressure can cause high speed problems. I recently had this symptom, and adding air took care of the problem. Conall

[Zachariah Mully]

On Tue, 2003-05-27 at 13:27, klr_a4 wrote:

> Well, I read the whole thread on the issue of high speed wobbles of > the klrs front wheel. Don't mean to be a wise ass, but to quote > Cheech Marin ( Cheech and Chong), did you check the air in the tires > lately? I didn't see this easy fix stated as a possible solution, so > thought I'd throw it out there. Rubber inner tubes can slowly lose > pressure over time, and low pressure can cause high speed problems. I > recently had this symptom, and adding air took care of the problem. > > Conall

Also try leaning forward (lay down on the tank) on the bike when you get the wobbles. I found this cured my wobbles which happened when I had the bike loaded up (two dry bags stacked on the rear rack). Z DC A5X A12X

[klr_a4]

> Also try leaning forward (lay down on the tank) on the bike when

you get

> the wobbles. I found this cured my wobbles which happened when I

had the

> bike loaded up (two dry bags stacked on the rear rack). > > Z > DC > A5X > A12X

You would not believe how much of a difference weighted tank panniers help in solving this rear weighted bias you mention. I always use tank panniers on long trips, when I have the givi tail box installed. Not that I have too much weight on the back of the bike, but the tail box catches the wind, and induces a unwanted lean/steering to the bike. Conall

[cavanadd]

I installed a set of Kenda K270s on my '88 KLR and now I have a BAD high speed wobble. The wobble starts itself at above about 70, and between 60 and 70 it can be set off by a gust of wind or a truck passing. It's really annoying and limits my ability to be able to ride on the freeway. If I went much over 70 it feels like it would turn into a tank slapper. Has anyone else experienced this, and were you able to do anything about it? Other info- front end has Progressive springs with about 12 wt oil, bike has #1 raising links with spring and preload both at about mid range, I was running a tall aftermarket windshield, side cases and a 42 liter top box. I tried running with and without the windshield with no difference in handling, and plan to try with out the top box next, but I am afraid I may have to get rid of these tires. I'm not real crazy about their overall performance on pavement. Thanks Dave C

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cavanadd" wrote:

> > I installed a set of Kenda K270s on my '88 KLR and now I have a BAD > high speed wobble.

SNIP> Hello Dave, A couple of things come to mind that I would check: 1) Recheck the torque on the axle nuts 2) Make sure the steering head bearings are properly tightened, ie have just a small amount of drag when the front end is suspended. The wobble may not manifest itself with the previous tires, but does now because of the change of tread pattern, or the current phase of the moon 3) Q. Did you attempt to balance the tires? I use plumbing solder wrapped around a spoke to balance the tire. Some Kenda's require 'some' weight, others a bunch. Many on the list don't bother balancing the tire at all. (shrug) I prefer getting it close.... 4) CHAIN: a) Check your chain tension again. A tight chain can mess with your geometry. b) Chain/wheel alignment: will mess with your bikes geometry. c) chain and sprocket condition; will mess with your bike geometry. 5) Bent wheel: Who changed the tires? Could the wheel/brake disc have been damaged? Suspend the front end, and place a 'Sharpie' against the fork tube, perpendicular to the front wheel and spin the wheel slowly. The sharpie will leave a mark on the wheel anyplace the wheel is out of 'round'. Do the back wheel the same way. It could be that you got a bad tire/s. Could be one of 1-5. shrug. What is good, is that you recognize that something is different and limiting the bikes previous performance. I would 'guess' that it is something in the 1-3 category. As far as bad Kenda's; In the past 3.5 years, I have yet to hear of anyone reporting a 'bad' one, yes, some, many, required a bunch of weight. I installed a set last spring for Dan Stuart, and they didn't need any. shrug. Let us know what you find out. revmaaatin.

[Norm Keller]

Try bumping the tire pressure up to 32 PSI front and 36 PSI rear. I found that higher pressure, as recommended by several listers solved the high speed wobble on mine. Other possibilities are loose steering head bearings, loose wheel bearings, front and rear, etc. New 270's are a bit strange on my bike until they have some miles, then they're the ideal tire for my use. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[a14@att.net]

> Try bumping the tire pressure up to 32 PSI front and 36 PSI rear. I found that > higher pressure, as recommended by several listers solved the high speed wobble > on mine. > > Other possibilities are loose steering head bearings, loose wheel bearings, > front and rear, etc. > > New 270's are a bit strange on my bike until they have some miles, then they're > the ideal tire for my use. > > Norm > >

I had his exact same problem about six years ago and did everything you just suggested but still had an occasional wobble problem. I ended up solving it by lowering the rear spring preload. My tires and suspension are way different now but what I found is any change may upset the 'balance' of things, however, the KLR is very adaptable to all sorts of variations. You just have to establish the right 'balance'. Walt

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, a14@... wrote:

> > I had his exact same problem about six years ago and did everything you > just suggested but still had an occasional wobble problem. I ended up > solving it by lowering the rear spring preload. >

More frequently, the problem is insufficient rear preload. Too much sag tends to unload the front wheel, which then "hunts", sometimes quite alarmingly. Adjust your preload for as close to 3" sag as you can get. If you add luggage, increase preload as necessary to keep sag around 3". You may find that you need a stiffer spring. First make sure the bike is assembled correctly: Alignment, steering head, axles, pinch bolts, wheel bearings, spokes. swing arm. Use appropriate tire pressures for road use: 30-32f, 30-36r. I have put 30,000 miles on K270s without experiencing a wobble on a bike that is set up right.

[fasteddiecopeman]

Dave, I've been running K270s on my '04 for at least 15,000 miles w/ NO problem! Check your steering head bearings for 'slop': mine would 'shake it's head' till I tightened mine. Ed